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Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists (Read 4753 times)

remus

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Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 18, 2020, 11:46:00 pm
Thank you for the kind words   ;D and yeah that's exactly what went through my mind TomTom - was quite a shock to hold it haha! As for the footwork at the top it wasn't my finest work but makes a good laugh looking back at it - I think I was in a bit of a daze  :lol:
Thanks all :D

Great effort, well done!

Apologies for being a bit slack on updating the list recently. I've been working on a little project that'll revolutionise the art of climbing list maintenance.

Feast your eyes https://climbing-history.org/

Will Hunt

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#1 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 12:09:12 am
I know we haven't got a thread for it, but shouldn't trad get a shout? E9 for blokes? What's a lady got to do nowadays to be a wadette?

Ross Barker

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#2 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 07:14:27 am
Site looks mint! Couldn't help but notice a typo on Sam Mawson  ;)

Another thing nobody has mentioned that I can see, last year Sam Tolhurst completed a new link up at Nesscliffe, claiming 8B. Unrepeated and lots of moves, what are everyone's thoughts?

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2NCGKnDqqs/?igshid=1n6d8kavcgzl6

remus

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#3 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 08:04:35 am
Site looks mint! Couldn't help but notice a typo on Sam Mawson  ;)

Good spot, thanks! Likely to be a few typos about as transferring the data from the old list was pretty manual so any corrections welcome.

Quote
Another thing nobody has mentioned that I can see, last year Sam Tolhurst completed a new link up at Nesscliffe, claiming 8B. Unrepeated and lots of moves, what are everyone's thoughts?

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2NCGKnDqqs/?igshid=1n6d8kavcgzl6

I've added him to the list. Might not be the purest line but seems legit (having said that, I've never climbed there so could be off the mark).

Duma

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#4 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 08:13:48 am
Looks good remus, roz is on the womens sport list twice - at 8c and 8b+?

remus

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#5 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 08:52:53 am
Looks good remus, roz is on the womens sport list twice - at 8c and 8b+?

Good spot! Now fixed.

The way I've put it together means there's quite a bit more flexibility in how stuff is recorded which makes it easier to include ascents that are interesting but wouldn't otherwise feature on the usual lists. e.g. hard flashes, first ascent details etc. The list itself is then just a view on top of the underlying data with the right filters applied (gender, cut off grade etc.)

andy popp

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#6 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 09:34:12 am
Might not be the purest line but seems legit (having said that, I've never climbed there so could be off the mark).

I don't know what this specific one involves but there are lots of link-ups there and they're largely pretty logical.

Ross Barker

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#7 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 11:07:00 am
Might not be the purest line but seems legit (having said that, I've never climbed there so could be off the mark).

I don't know what this specific one involves but there are lots of link-ups there and they're largely pretty logical.

This one is Nor-Lit-Nor into Sam's indirect start to Rigpa. 8A into 7C+, my fingers weep just thinking about it!

Duma

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#8 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 11:32:41 am
Megalopa looks like its misspelt on the mens list - dunno about the underlying data?

turnipturned

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#9 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 11:47:16 am
Might not be the purest line but seems legit (having said that, I've never climbed there so could be off the mark).

I don't know what this specific one involves but there are lots of link-ups there and they're largely pretty logical.

This one is Nor-Lit-Nor into Sam's indirect start to Rigpa. 8A into 7C+, my fingers weep just thinking about it!

((11+10)+4)/2=12.5 Round up, so 13. Sounds like a V13/8B to me!

shark

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#10 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 05:38:11 pm
Great work Remus  :clap2:

Couple of comments from the UK Bouldering Facebook page:

Quote from: Ian Dunn
Couple to add in Malcolm Smith has done Hubble as well as Hunger Jerry Moffat did Progress as well as Liquid Amber and Evolution and Claudie Dunn did Powerplant

Quote from: Chris Gore
I thought Magic Line was considered 8c+ or has the list not been updated

One thing from me - please change it from Sports Climbs to Sport Climbs on the tab. Brings me out in hives every time I see that.

Duma

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#11 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 05:41:42 pm
Re Magic Line, I think trad climbs that would be hard enough were discussed upthread and it was decided not to include? Can't remember why

Duma

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#12 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 06:15:39 pm
Thought: could we add a list of firsts? would be neater than comments against climbers

remus

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#13 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 06:21:45 pm
Cheers Shark.

Quote from: Ian Dunn
Couple to add in Malcolm Smith has done Hubble as well as Hunger Jerry Moffat did Progress as well as Liquid Amber and Evolution and Claudie Dunn did Powerplant

Good shout on those, I've added them in. Having said that, as I understand it Progress was 8c when Jerry did the FA and has since gone up to 8c+ after hold breakage. Happy to correct  it if this isn't the case.

Quote from: Chris Gore
I thought Magic Line was considered 8c+ or has the list not been updated

As Duma said, although hard trad routes are super impressive one of the rules for the list is that it's sport climbs only. This makes maintenance a bit easier, as we can avoid endless debates about what sport grades trad routes should get.

Quote from: shark
One thing from me - please change it from Sports Climbs to Sport Climbs on the tab. Brings me out in hives every time I see that.

Made the change in the code, it'll go live next time I restart the server.

remus

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#14 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 06:25:08 pm
Thought: could we add a list of firsts? would be neater than comments against climbers

I like this idea, will probably add it in once I've had a think about how best to implement it. Not entirely sure how it'd work at the mo. Maybe just a fairly generic 'interesting ascent' flag and then use that to pull out a list of interesting ascents i.e. firsts, impressive flashes, impressive onsights etc. What do you think?

Duma

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#15 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 06:28:29 pm
yeah, could use that flag against a climber or route/problem, and then put appropriate filter?
dunno how much work it'd add tho

remus

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#16 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 06:30:53 pm
Adding the feature is pretty easy, I suspect listing out the various firsts would be hard though.

Wood FT

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#17 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 06:41:56 pm
If Hamish is in the 9a club for Jungle Speed then you can add that to Ryan's tally too.

remus

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#18 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 06:44:15 pm
If Hamish is in the 9a club for Jungle Speed then you can add that to Ryan's tally too.

Good shout.

Anyone know if there's a concensus for 8c+ or 9a on jungle speed? I've taken a hard line approach and eliminated slash grades so it's gotta be one or the other.

Doylo

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#19 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 19, 2020, 08:09:02 pm
It broke and got harder.

MischaHY

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#20 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 26, 2020, 08:37:49 am
If Hamish is in the 9a club for Jungle Speed then you can add that to Ryan's tally too.

Good shout.

Anyone know if there's a concensus for 8c+ or 9a on jungle speed? I've taken a hard line approach and eliminated slash grades so it's gotta be one or the other.

The consensus seems to be 9a now according to the Cornudella locals.

remus

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#21 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 26, 2020, 09:57:18 am
If Hamish is in the 9a club for Jungle Speed then you can add that to Ryan's tally too.

Good shout.

Anyone know if there's a concensus for 8c+ or 9a on jungle speed? I've taken a hard line approach and eliminated slash grades so it's gotta be one or the other.

The consensus seems to be 9a now according to the Cornudella locals.

Thanks Mischa, I'll leave it at 9a for the moment then.

shark

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#22 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 26, 2020, 10:18:10 am
Tricky. Do you have to apply a grade for how it was done ie pre-break, pre-kneepad, pre- new beta etc  :worms:

remus

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#23 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 26, 2020, 10:57:56 am
Tricky. Do you have to apply a grade for how it was done ie pre-break, pre-kneepad, pre- new beta etc  :worms:

Is it that much of a can of worms? pre-kneepad, pre-new beta grading is just climbing something with a bad sequence. From a listing perspective, the only tricky thing is pre-break as I suspect it'll be hard to know exactly when a lot of hold breakages occured, who did it pre break, who did it post break etc. Especially for things that have broken multiple times, been fixed etc.

Duma

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#24 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 26, 2020, 10:15:21 pm
Tricky. Do you have to apply a grade for how it was done ie pre-break, pre-kneepad, pre- new beta etc  :worms:

Is it that much of a can of worms? pre-kneepad, pre-new beta grading is just climbing something with a bad sequence. From a listing perspective, the only tricky thing is pre-break as I suspect it'll be hard to know exactly when a lot of hold breakages occured, who did it pre break, who did it post break etc. Especially for things that have broken multiple times, been fixed etc.
Pre kneepad is not climbing something with a bad sequence.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#25 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 27, 2020, 11:23:44 am
Tricky. Do you have to apply a grade for how it was done ie pre-break, pre-kneepad, pre- new beta etc  :worms:

Is it that much of a can of worms? pre-kneepad, pre-new beta grading is just climbing something with a bad sequence. From a listing perspective, the only tricky thing is pre-break as I suspect it'll be hard to know exactly when a lot of hold breakages occured, who did it pre break, who did it post break etc. Especially for things that have broken multiple times, been fixed etc.
Pre kneepad is not climbing something with a bad sequence.

I obviously agree  ;)

Without going into that debate here, how inept Ben was at finding the better sequence at the time  ;D etc, I think the list does need to include the historical ascents.

The routes aren't fixed things.

Wil Bosi climbs Britain's first 9c, but some punter with a knee pad breaks off a crucial nipple of rock, trying to get a knee scum on the crux undercut - sorry  ;D. The route is deemed unclimbable at anything below 10a..

Should Wil get in the list at 9c after the route is re-climbed? Eg. yes, re Moffatt on Progress (as you have in the FA list); what's the status of Total Eclipse for instance? Couldn't see Hooligan/Dunning btw?

I think the routes should be included both as they were, and how they are now. Just my thoughts on that one.

Great project Remus  :thumbsup:

You could just put a date next to the route, using that as a link to the "route at that time".
« Last Edit: November 27, 2020, 11:33:51 am by DAVETHOMAS90 »

DAVETHOMAS90

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#26 Re: Topic split - Remus’s climbing lists
November 28, 2020, 12:47:29 am
Trying to be a bit more constructive, I was thinking, re trad routes - again, I think important from a historical perspective - there were plenty of routes climbed years ago, which were a product of their era, but still really significant in terms of the "sport" grade.

I'm thinking of routes like Requiem at Dumbarton. I think it's 8a+ ?
I can still remember the headline in Livesey's Rock Notes: "Cubby and Scotland's hardest yet".. about '84 IIRC.

Screaming Dream at Froggatt, how does that stack up? Even Revelations was first climbed on a bolt and a couple of thin drilled aid threads - similar grade/time to Requiem.

I think routes of this significance should be included - and great to be reminded of them!

There will be routes that were originally climbed as "sport-trad" which have subsequently been retro'd - and those that haven't, just because of rock type.

How many trad routes are there, harder than say 7c+ ?

I appreciate it will require a great deal of further research, but I think it could be really valuable.

Thoughts?

 

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