[User deactivated]

Hamish has given the problem on the Traci Lords face 8B, calling it Tracky Lords. I'd disagree that the face is now contrived, Hamish's ascent was the logical line

Like I said below, what Aidan did is contrived, the hold was already there when Aidan did the sitter but maybe the easiest beta hadn't emerged yet. But for the record and what anyone knowledgable of that faces history who has climbed on it will tell you, is that there are simply too many problems up there now, with no room inbetween them. Hamish didn't use any extra holds that Aidan didn't but it's been given a new name, which I think proves the point.

Hamish did some kind of sit to Shyla Stylez. I talked to him and he wasn’t quite sure on the grade but he didn’t repeat Aidans Traci sit sequence or bother going as far rightwards as him, but that’s probably cause it’s now quite contrived what Aidan did. Certainly in the fact that he did the stand the original ish jump way. Since the emergence of the new hold on that face the whole way it climbs has changed. Some of it is a bit eliminate in nature.

[G Tubb]

Hamish didn't use any extra holds that Aidan didn't but it's been given a new name

Apologies Jack I wasn't aware of the chronology of the hold breaking. The new name came about because Traci Lords SS is gone forever, and in its place is Tracky Lords. Anyway, props to Aidan for hunting the myth in the first place and Hamish for fixing the face.

I've got footage of the ascent which will be out before too long.

[andy_e]

I can only guess that the scouse boulderers must have been up there on the same day to inspire that name.

[remus]

Thanks for the clarifications everyone. I've put Hamish back at 8B given that's what he's taken for it.

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

[yetix]

Buster has done belly of the beast, but suggested it's 8B

[abarro81]

Given that me and Buster have now both given it 8B I think it's safe to downgrade

[remus]

Seems reasonable. I've moved it down to 8B, only person adversely affected is Ethan Walker (unless he's got any other 8B+s to his name?)

https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

[Orrincoley]

Whether this is a testament to the climb or how bad I am, I find it freaking tough. Had countless attempts where I get through the crux and fall off the "easy" end section. Even with every knee bar trick I can pull. I'd argue that compared to similarly length "boulders" its comparable in difficulty. That being said my only comparison are Never Ending Story in Magic and my only link up fa's in Forest Rock.
Its a proper nemesis problem for me is what I'm saying and I'll likely take the bigger grade.
Also not to throw him under the bus, but Billy had a right nightmare with Keen Roof alone, having spent numerous sessions over years being stupidly close but never finishing it (until recently that is). Not sure if either of these points make it more valid for being harder or that the both of us have just been a bit spanked really.

[teestub]

Hamish did some kind of sit to Shyla Stylez.

Looks like a low start rather than a sit, not sure whether Aidan started in the same place or lower? 

Edit: looks like he started on same holds but hard to tell 
https://www.instagram.com/p/BRJTDvjD8iO/?igshid=137oubnuo5e2w

[Bradders]

Seems a bit bizarre to call that a first ascent, or change the name. Surely it's just a different sequence / repeat after hold break?

[webbo]

In the 2nd vid he starts sat on something with his arms straight/ full stretch. In the first vid he pulls on with his arms bent almost in locked position.

[G Tubb]

Seems a bit bizarre to call that a first ascent, or change the name. Surely it's just a different sequence / repeat after hold break?

Because it's not Traci Lords. That problem doesn't really exist since the hold break, leaving the face somewhat confusing as evidenced by this thread. Hamish fixed all that by climbing the one logical, easiest line. The person who suggested taking it as a FA was Aidan.

Hamish started on the same holds

[Sasquatch]

I love it.  The original FA and the new FA talk and it all makes sense to them.  The armchair guys can't figure it out. 

[yetix]

Seems a bit bizarre to call that a first ascent, or change the name. Surely it's just a different sequence / repeat after hold break?

Pretty sure the hold was broken (as he uses it for his left hand to do the stand) when aidan did it, he just opted to climb it that way, which is why it's contrived. Could be wrong

[Bradders]

I love it.  The original FA and the new FA talk and it all makes sense to them.  The armchair guys can't figure it out.

Haha fair enough, I didn't know it was Aidan's recommendation. Still seems weird to me given how close the lines are and shared /skipped holds etc. but whatever.

[Adam Lincoln]

Lewis Roy - Sanction - Dumby

[remus]

Lewis Roy - Sanction - Dumby

Didn't he only do supersize me recently? Good consolidation if so! https://github.com/bourbonspecial/UKStrongPeople/blob/master/men_boulders.md

[Bradders]

Sam Mawson did Cypher today. Great to see, been on the cards for a while, and couldn't happen to a nicer chap. Plus he has some of the strongest fingers in Yorkshire!

[tomtom]

Sam Mawson did Cypher today. Great to see, been on the cards for a while, and couldn't happen to a nicer chap. Plus he has some of the strongest fingers in Yorkshire!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CHqgmhpDJ-s/?igshid=d1hp0epjfo0p

Pics and vid in the link above. Love the top out! No sound but felt like a oh fuck I’ve done it what do I do now moment!!

[haworthjim]

Sam and I were trying to work out who's now done Cypher- We got to B Moon, S Dunning, D Varian, R Pasquill, T Newman, B Freeman, N Ceria ......

[haworthjim]

oh and D.Mason

[monkey boy]

Andy Earl

[SA Chris]

Plus he has some of the strongest fingers in Yorkshire!

That's good, because from the vid he's clearly trying to not wear out his shoes!

[turnipturned]

Plus he has some of the strongest fingers in Yorkshire!

That's good, because from the vid he's clearly trying to not wear out his shoes!

To be fair, there is only really one foot hold on the whole problem.

Great effort Sam, super cool to see another local youngster coming through and climbing hard on the Grit. Its been really cool to see a few of the younger Yorkshire climbers (Will Buck and James Turnbull) developing over the years.  Interestingly, I guess they have all taken similar paths, being brought up climbing outside with their dads. Awesome.

[CragDog]

Thank you for the kind words    and yeah that's exactly what went through my mind TomTom - was quite a shock to hold it haha! As for the footwork at the top it wasn't my finest work but makes a good laugh looking back at it - I think I was in a bit of a daze 
Thanks all :D