[tomtom]

Forgot to post last week - so a double tally of repeats and numbers etc... Everything is a set of 6 hangs alternate sides for one arm work. enjoy - lots of repeaters blah blah! :D

Weight - mid 68's - did read 67.9 at one point but never again...

Tues 31/3: 1 Arm day. 3xF4 both arms small edge, 3x1 arm engaged shoulder  bent arm/part lock -15kg. 1xLock off -15kg (failure), 1x 1arm -12kg (hard), 2x 1arm -8kg (very hard- 2-3 secs at most)

Fri 3/4: Fingers day: 2xF4 small edge, 2x M2 deep slots (no assist - big improvement), 2x B3 small edge -12kgs - very hard, 2x B2 deep slots -15kg, v hard DNF. 2xf4 smallest edge, 4x 'explosive pull ups' (jugs) hands off at top.

Sun 5/4: 1arm day. Very tired - evening session. 1x F4 small edge (very painful tips), 3x 1arm -15kg (5 on 5 off), 2x lock off and drop -15kg (better than tues), 1x 1arm -12kg (hard), 1x 1arm -8kg (hard 3-4 secs max), 1x 1arm -15kg.

Tues 7/4: Board construction day. Lifting, pinning ply, drilling (on a 50 deg board), mounting holds - 2-3 hours of work. Trashed arms and shoulders! Proper push DOMs.

Fri 10/4: Still feeling rubbish. 1x 1arm -8kg. Felt fine! (improvement). 1x 1arm -15kg lock off. Creeping on left, not so good on right. 30 min board session (really hurt tips! climbing hurts!!) - need some large jugs to warm up on. Small resin holds a bit cruel.. 3x 1arm -8kg to exhaustion. Gainz.. on the 1 arm hanging.

Sun: 12/4: Board day. Made some jugs from some bits of CLS.. had also re-jigged footholds (now all jenga blocks). Warm up now do-able. Worked a few new problems, moved a couple of holds about. A good hour session. Felt trashed. Finished with 3x 1arm -15kg and 1x 1arm -8kg. Felt battered.

Christ thats a load of boring numbers to write down... in general - fingerboard improvements - one arm hangs assist weight coming down. The hard part is not the grip its doing them with a fully engaged shoulder and a properly bent arm (not just a little kinked) - in effect a part lockoff I guess. This is also helping me stop rotation - which has got notably better in just two weeks. Consolidating gains and gently reducing the assist - I need those -8kg's though - if I try without nada.

Climbing again. On a steep board. Joy. Its truly great to be moving again - and I've enjoyed building it - and tinkering with the set up. Hoping to get some smaller wooden holds in the coming weeks - the resin ones are good (grippy) but a bit brutal (all small). Posterior chain is certainly feeling it tonight after having had 3-4 weeks off!!

Also been doing the Joe Wicks morning HIIT kids workout every weekday morning at 9. Good way to get going - and my glutes have finally got used to it!

Below the board on tuesday - its got a few wooden jugs and a load of jenga foot holds now.

[Will Hunt]

Can you upload some videos of you on your board, Tom? Would be cool to see it in action.

M - fingerboard lunch. Warmed up and did some hangs on monos with assist (feet on the floor at various distances). Repeated more gently on ring finger. Then finished with half crimp and + 10kg on the smallest BM2k edges. 7 secs hangs with about 2 mins rest between. About 5 hangs per grip.  and core/stretching evening with push ups.

T - felt tired around the shoulders from previous day's evening session. Had planned on using the board but decided to call a rest day instead. Did a ride in the evening for about 30 or 40 mins. Quite steep out of the door and downhill to home. Bit of stretching.

W - board. Set a new problem. Did the first move of both Fatboy Slim and The Lockdown. Changed the last move of Fatboy as it was crap and just too hard. These should go soon. Crocked my wrist while doing a jumpy thing. Named the problem Sharknado in honour of our Crocker In Chief. Very good sesh.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-10B5wjXkP/?igshid=1pma4qrc8mtmi

T - core and stretching

F - rest

S - family walk in the morning. Jess did some coming against BMC and UKB advice.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-10B5wjXkP/?igshid=1pma4qrc8mtmi
PM. Board hour. Warmed up and got on Fatboy Slim. Could feel it coming together but dropped it a few times. Got it sussed in the end and did it. Also did the RH version of Sharknado. Only an hour session so didn't have time to get stuck into The Lockdown.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-2M00KjsJR/?igshid=4jje261t5gu3

S - family walk and a little bit of Joe Wicks. Heart very much not in it as I was trying to cook a roast simultaneously.
In the afternoon started to get pain in my left thumb. Can't work out if this is from climbing, or Mummy Thumb, or if it's residual pain from the Sharknado bail. Hopefully clear up in a few days.

[Will Hunt]

I'm sure nobody cares but that first Instagram link is wrong. Should be https://www.instagram.com/p/B-u--rEjDgB/
Just correcting it for if I'm reviewing this thread to check on progression and in case anybody is desperate to see me spanner off the pads.

[shark]

11.7-9 Average 162.1 (up 0.6lbs)

M. Noon. Fingerboard. Density hangs session with bandage on
Eve.Static Overhead barbell press 35kgx4, 32.5kgx4, 32.5kgx4. Hip thrusts 80kgx6, 90kgx6, 90kgx6 Front squat 40kgx6, 40kgx6 Straight leg deadlift 75kgx6, 80kgx6, 85kgx6 (Weights don’t include the bar)

T.

W. Noon. Fingerboard. Bandage off. Recruitment pulls on 20mm edge Strict half crimp then drag. Speed pulls on same edge then middle slot
Evening. O/press 32.5kg x5,x5,x5 Hip thrusts x6 at 95kg, 100kg, 105kg Front squat 40kg x6,x6,x6 Straight leg deadlift off stand 105kg x6, x6 (Weights don’t include the bar)

T.

F. Noon. Fingerboard and ergo edge Recruitment and Speed pulls. Took a bit of a tumble on one of the speed pulls I think because the large scab on my least injured tip sloughed off. Some bloodshed but not enough to prevent finishing the set. Made a bit of a mess of the fingerboard though

S.Afternoon. Systems board. Practiced the throw move and did second hardest version which wasn’t too shoddy considering how heavy I am and how hot it was. Did 2 Sets of 20/10s (240 moves AeroCap) First climbing for 23 days!

S. Noon. First play on bachar ladder doing single moves. Million miles off doing a double. Goes at front lever. Got Sonia to video me. Form not as great as I thought it was
PM O/press 35kg x4,x4,x3 Hip thrusts at 110kg x6,x6,x6 Too hammered after hip thrusts to do straight leg deadlifts Front squat 40kg x6,x6,x6. 8 pull ups(Weights don’t include the bar)


Was psyched to deadhang without a bandage on Tuesday. It’s still not yet in a fit state for small edges, full crimps or board climbing though.

Weighed in at a massive 11.10 this morning. 

[mr chaz]

Goals: i) Some form of exercise everyday ii) End lockdown fitter than I started

M. 25 minute HIIT followed by hip mobility routine.

T. 15 minute HIIT. Fingerboarding - 20s 2 arm hangs, trying to stay really strict on form. Still a way off holding the 2 smallest crimps on the moon fingerboard for anything more than 5 seconds in a half or full crimp.

W. 30 minute HIIT. 10 minute yoga with gf.

T. Fingerboard - 1 arm max hangs. Best session yet on these using my new rung (have used the BM 2000 middle edge for years for these, but now doing them on a fairly rounded 18 mm moon rung). Using 7 kg assistance via pulley, much better form today and nearly getting 10 seconds out of most hangs. May be able to drop to 5kg soon.

F. Fingerboard - repeaters x 1 set (8 minutes). Approximately 10 reps on a simple front lever, have lost a lot of form on these in the last year or so. Going to try and recover a decent lever (5-10 seconds would be nice) over the next few weeks.

S. Mostly sunbathing, with a quick 10 min HIIT in the sun.

S. 20 minute HIIT session. They've become a daily thing now for my and my gf, and I've gone from hating every second to becoming weirdly addicted.

[gollum]

M - Steady 6k on the treadmill to get warmed up.
Pull ups. Mixing it up a bit today with 10x10, followed by some kettlebell rows, both with long pause at top and with lots of speed.
Some core work on the floor and the bar with a mix of planks, crunches etc and some levers.
After lunch do some work on biceps and triceps with band and kettlebells.
Back on the monos today and hold for 30 secs on each finger. Finish with single pulls on the pinkies, which is a lot more than I could hold for 30 seconds (obviously)

T - Treadmill 10k, watching lots of BBC 4 type stuff. Move on to chest and shoulders session with bands and kettlebells. Followed up with some light core work.
In the afternoon 5k around the block and some fingerboarding.

W - Treadmill 10k. Pull ups and arms work.  Heavy core work.  6k on treadmill in afternoon and mono work,

T - Mixing it up so 6k walk at quick pace on treadmill in the morning. Press ups on the minute. 8 per minute for 50 minutes. Light core work.
10k treadmill. Repeaters on pinches.

F- 5k trot round the block. 

S- And again

S- And once again

[spidermonkey09]

Good effort Chaz if youre using one of those horrific resin moon fingerboards. Im not sure I could summon the willpower to train if that was the option!

[Murph]

M-5k jog and first fingerboard for over 5 months. I remember dusting cobwebs off of it and having to move furniture to get to it again. But it was as good as I ever remembered. As this was my first in a long time I will report the detail. Warm up then the lifts went like this, all on minute marks and for for 10s on a bm1k
1m +8kg 18mm
3m +16kg 18mm
5m +16kg 18mm
7m +24kg 18mm
10m +32kg 18mm
13m +32kg 18mm
16 +8kg 14mm HC
19 +16kg 14mm drag
22 +24kg 14mm drag
I really enjoyed it and though I should get back into it during confinement.
T-16kg kettlebell routine. Swings and Turkish get ups. All felt fine.
W-5k jog in the morning. Realised something wasnt quite right by lunchtime. My left arm/shoulder/pec just wasnt functioning properly. Felt weak. Difficulty raising arm overhead. Sacked off anything.
T-nope, proper shite. I wish I wish I wish I knew just what caused it and how to avoid it happening again.
F-bit better
S-5k jog. Amazing. I had the insight that there is no such thing as the past or the future there is only the present moment. I know, trite, but it gave me a deep sense of calm. Running can be good for you and not just physically.
S-

So. Back to square one. Half kilo arm rehab exercises again and Neds Flexy Madness or something. I'll sack off the kettlebells again but I do like them. Could have been the fingerboard that caused it I dont know. Last time I got this injury it was about November and that time I think it was dead lifting some poxy amount - nothing heavy - and came about a few days later that time too.

Oh well onward. Keep at it everyone.

[measles23]

Straight leg deadlift off stand 105kg x6, x6 (Weights don’t include the bar)

Well they should do Shark, them’s the rules

Nick have you had a physio look at your shoulder yet? Sounds like quite a specific problem..

68.4kg

M- BM2k smalls max hangs 10 sets open crimp inc 5 sets of +35kg x 5s.
Secondary exercise on micros 6 sets on 10s up to +30kg x 3s - open crimp, but pinching the side - cheating I guess but I like it as a training prehension; feels just like how I take every lime hold I know.. 
Peak tune -See through me by Orbit Culture; love at first YouTube recommendation click..

T- DL 11 sets inc 6 singles at 190 - felt good could go on forever. Tune = HSB Corium.

W- 30 min rower. BM2k smalls max hangs 3 finger drag 12 sets inc 4 at +20kg x5s.
Deep pressups 10x3.
Campus board - struggling a bit with home board until I realised flipping the wood grips small rungs upside down works better - less incut but more skin to wood so better friction. 3 to 1 drop downs; still way harder than 4 to 1s at Stoke AW.
Reverse grip deep dips 3x3.
Felt creaky today - Alison muttering about rest..

T- Ring muscle ups; easier now I’ve got some proper straps - still just 3 singles.
Weighted pull-ups 10 sets inc 5 good singles at +40kg
Still bit creaky

F- BM2k smalls max hangs open crimp 12 sets up to +40kg x 5s; that’s back to baseline but only for 1 set..

S- DL 9 sets up to 210 - back to 3BW again yyfy. Bit cheeky was only supposed to try 200s but got greedy and got away with it.. Love lifting in my home gym, I think I can focus better..
Tune = HSB Corium again - just the perfect lifting track for me; timing fits my build up ritual to a tee, and the growling starts just as I drop to the bar; makes me feel like an Uruk-hai about to gut an elf
Super deep ring dips 5x5
Secondary Max hangs on micros - 10s with side pinch 8 sets with 5 at +20kg x5s
Not creaky any more; getting acclimatised to training now..

S- Rower 60 min. Rest. Planning 40 degree board for when timber arrives..

Happy Easter!

[Murph]

Strong week that matt. HSB Corium was invented to DL by.

I have seen a physio, a few years ago. You would be surprised by what she told me.

[measles23]

O fuck yeah I remember now - weak shoulders! 

[Murph]

Yep. Same thing as she told a lady wad climber I know. The cure, apparently is endless half kilo exercises. Forever. With no feedback that it's going well.

[duncan]

Lockdown diaries, week 3&4.

Murph: frustrating but not necessarily a disaster. I was thinking that was a big first day if you’ve not fingerboarded for 6 (?) months even before reading the rest of the post. Kettleballing is also rather wristy, I can’t remember if you’ve done much of this recently. Probably the cumulative novel load was too much. When an injury has a latent response like this, it’s best to wait a day or two after a new stimulus to judge the reaction.

Take a few days off then build back up as you successfully did before. You could potentially reintroduce fingerboarding (big holds, low load) much earlier, as long as you remember you’re rehab.ing yourself not training.


STG: stay mentally stable, do something active every day, don’t get injured.
MTG-LTG: who knows?

M - Knee strength (high step-ups, single leg squats).
T - Fingerboarding for elbow rehab: 1-3s. hangs on big holds.
W - Shoulder strength (one arm planks, handstands, tick-tocks).
T - Knees
F - Knees, fingerboarding for elbow rehab.
S - Shoulder strength. Cycled to north Finchley in search of Japanese rice, returned with a 10kg sack. Going over Highgate on a sit-up and beg bike with a heavy rucksack is a decent leg day.
M - Fingerboarding for elbow rehab.
T - Fingerboarding for elbow rehab.
W - Fingerboarding for elbow rehab.
T - Fingerboarding for elbow rehab.
F - Knees, Shoulders.
S - Knees, fingerboarding for elbow rehab.
S - Knees. Shoulders. Fingerboarding for strength: 7s. hangs on a 20mm edge.

Plus a 5-7km brisk walk on Hampstead Heath every evening. For what it’s worth, I’ve seen 1000s almost all behaving themselves. The streets are very quiet, the frequency of ambulance sirens is alarming.

Mostly keeping sane. Don’t feel too bad about not climbing. Overdid the pull-ups the previous week but the predictable sore elbow is settling. Badly missing sea-cliffs, north Cornwall, and north west Scotland.

[abarro81]

STG: stay mentally stable

Glad I didn't put this on my lockdown goals, feels less achievable that pinky mono 1-armers at the moment. And that's not because my pinkies are strong.

[measles23]

HSB Corium was invented to DL by.

Great video too; lots of beautiful shots of the Torres del Paine national park - shame she has to blow it up at the end!

[HarryBD]

Sorry you’re having injury trouble Murph.

M Repeaters on half crimp -16kg 6x6x7/3, hip mobility and bd core routine
T 35mins on the bike hard up every hill, max count pull-ups 15
W 20min run with no ankle pain happy days, pull-up pyramid up to 8, bd core and hip mobility
T 35 mins steady on the bike, Ab Ripper X not for me, repeaters 6x5x7/3 -8kg (Last two sets more like 5/5)
F Langbar loop on the bike felt strong, very hot and went out in long sleeves wtf
S bd core, max hangs 1arm with feet on floor, did 3 reps of 7s of each HC F3 B3 D3, BW pull-ups 5x5 with minute rest, bit easy will add weight next time, hip mobility
S 1hr run Ilkley moor, got myself a fuck off blister on my good foot but chuffed to be able to run with good form for an hour. Also under 80kg for the first time this year with the help of the dehydration.

This week goal to keep the weight avg under 81kg, 4hrs of cardio, 3 FB, Pull-up, Core and flexibility sessions.

[Duma]

Still a way off holding the 2 smallest crimps on the moon fingerboard for anything more than 5 seconds in a half or full crimp.

Jeez those edges are nasty. Kudos for persevering

[Murph]

Thanks Duncan. Been kettlbelling fairly regularly for a few weeks. But could be the combination of both and neither on it's own. Regardless, the next time I get on the fb it will be weightless. I keep shoulders engaged when hanging, really I do. But fingerboard then kettlebells 12hrs later maybe it's the combination thats too much.

Thanks for the tips and you're right for sure - this is not a disaster!

[abarro81]

I keep shoulders engaged when hanging, really I do.

Always on a straight arm with shoulders engaged? I wonder if you could be engaging too much? I find if I engage too hard on a straight arm it's tweaky. Safest (or at least, what seems least likely to cause me pain) position for me is slightly bent arms.

[tomtom]

I keep shoulders engaged when hanging, really I do.

Always on a straight arm with shoulders engaged? I wonder if you could be engaging too much? I find if I engage too hard on a straight arm it's tweaky. Safest (or at least, what seems least likely to cause me pain) position for me is slightly bent arms.

Always bend ze arms... you have to be fully engaged then (I think... or have strange arms/shoulders)

[monkoffunk]

Goals

Train hard in lockdown


M - Work, rest.
T - Night shift, restish

W - Super groggy but managed to get something done afternoon. Few foot on finger board circuits. Increased difficulty from last week. Few hangs on large BM 2000 edge up to +35kg. Normally haven’t done these so maybe new stimulus. Bit of limited pinch block work to finish. Feels elbowy, so not doing much of this.

T - Foot on finger board problems a.m. Front lever progression. P.m. total, 45 press ups, 30 hanging leg raise, 45x 10kg dumbbell bench press

F - Rest.

S - Yoga. Anderson repeaters. Much better than last time. Doing half crimps on BM2000 bottom rung. Switching to bigger hold if failing to hit 7secs. Realised I’m not sure what my TUT on the crimp actually is. Next time will try and keep track. I’m sure this is helpful for my overall ?strength endurance, (is that a thing?), but not sure how much time my fingers are being stressed. Will keep better track next time. Some press ups.

S - Work, rest.

Feel like getting some snap back this week. Avoiding injuries thus far!

[spidermonkey09]

Another week gone. Amazing three weeks have now gone by since lockdown first announced.

M- max hangs. A mildly shit session where I kept failing a second or so early and form wasn't great. Felt tired so maybe still adjusting to increased training load. 50 pullupd, TRX and 40 pressups to finish. A big session as was planning to rest the next day due to giving blood in the afternoon. Would recommend if anyone hasnt and was considering, its very easy, gets you out the house and makes you feel warm and fuzzy.

T- felt fine and deemed risk of arm starting to bleed minimal so trained. Mint conditions outside  set of anderson hangs, with +2.5 kg on battery edge and bottom outside and just body weight on the slopers. Some failure, but on the whole the edges were fine. Slopers were fucking nails sgain, but slightly improved on last time. More TRX, 40 pressups, and experimented with one arm repeaters following the advice from Varian on the other thread.

W - rested. Just a bit of core in the evening, steady BD workout.

T- max hangs. Better than Monday, form improved and consistently made it to 9 seconds at back end of set. TRX and 50 pullups.

F- Anderson hangs. Shoulders felt broken but warmed up as I got into it. Same weights as previous session, bizarrely did better on slopers despite it being really warm. Ordered fan which should arrive next week and will hopefully address the conditions issue.

S- rest. Felt broken.

S- as above. Reading in the sun.

Two day rest definitely seems to have helped. Pretty good week all things considered. Will do another week or so of the two arm hangs and then might switch back to the 1 arm version. Could do the same for repeaters too,but am quite enjoying the anderson hangs for now.

[Coops_13]

M: 100 press-ups, 300 core movements. Bicep curl, shoulder press, front and lateral raise drop sets * 2 sets. Good burn, shoulder started feeling tweaky

T: New core workout, focusing on engaging transverse abdominis

W: 50 pull-ups. Max hangs, 6 sets, 10s hangs. 14mm +20lb, 10mm BW, 14mm +30lb, 10mm BW, 14mm +30lb, 10mm. Crimpd finger curl hypertrophy to finish 20lb

T: 100 press-ups, 50 scapula press-ups and other shoulder stability exercises, 300 core movements. Wrist curls

F: 100 pull-ups, Beastly 6C workout - used slopers properly this time. Lower body stretching

S: 100 press-ups. Front lever holds. Managed my best one yet, c.1.5seconds with a dip in my body. Pulling outwards helps to engage scapula

S: 100 pull-ups. Max hangs, 6 sets, 7s one - arm hangs on BM 2K bottom middle slot (25mm?). -30lb on L, -25lb on R. Finger curl hypertrophy, 4 sets either side 40lb. Lower body stretching

Up to 900 press ups, 675 pull ups since lockdown began

[Murph]

I keep shoulders engaged when hanging, really I do.

Safest (or at least, what seems least likely to cause me pain) position for me is slightly bent arms.

Always bend ze arms

Yep, slight bend in the arms. Chest pointing up. Rigid body. I need to get back into it very slowly. Thanks chaps.

[Murph]

S: 100 press-ups. Front lever holds. Managed my best one yet, c.1.5seconds with a dip in my body. Pulling outwards helps to engage scapula

Good work this needs videoing coops. Either a one off or a progression. I'd love to see anyway.