[mr chaz]

Good effort Chaz if youre using one of those horrific resin moon fingerboards. Im not sure I could summon the willpower to train if that was the option!

You know what I’m actually pretty thankful for the nastiness right now, I figure it’ll help me bone down on the rattiest of ratties outside 

[Coops_13]

S: 100 press-ups. Front lever holds. Managed my best one yet, c.1.5seconds with a dip in my body. Pulling outwards helps to engage scapula

Good work this needs videoing coops. Either a one off or a progression. I'd love to see anyway.

Yeah I have done, maybe I'll release it to the masses in a before / after if and when I succeed

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, circuit second half. System static, test. Barbell complex x4. Phew. Very glad about the circuit.
Tue - recovery session, theraband and mobility.
Wed - power clean singles up to 80% (64 kg). TB DL 60% (80 kg) EMOM 5x20. Hard.
Thu - tired. High pulls, press, overhead carry finisher. Farmer's finisher. Even more tired.
Fri - recovery session, theraband and gentle weights.
Sat - board climbing, heavy. Bar work, strong. Weights.
Sun - system fingers, extremely strong out of nowhere. Rings. Weights.

Completely lost the count of the weeks spent in quarantine, either self or government imposed.
Too much spare time, only positive thing is that I hopped back on - and fell off a lot - the board.
Definitely focused on lifting and keeping or possibly increasing muscle mass, probably a few kilos heavier now, but smashed all PB on the system fingers training.
My only consolation is that in this monumental shitstorm, doing my homework, putting the hours in on the fingerboard, lifting, snatching, pulling, with no aim whatsoever is really the easiest part.
There is no such thing as a lockdown training program, and there will never be.

[Nutty]

Goals: Get strong, don't get injured, stay healthy and sane.

M: .
T: Garden board session. Fairly consistently get to high point on the two mirror versions of one of the problems I'm trying but no further. Tried a new problem but stuck on the second move. Good session nevertheless.
W: Rest.
T: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 20mm edge.
F: Rest.
S: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 20mm edge.
S: Rest.

Good board session this week - getting into it a bit more. Steady week on the fingerboard - one more 20mm edge session planned this week before dropping to 15mm for a couple of sessions - will then decide what to do for the next block, either do another cycle with increased weight or swap to one-arm hangs.

[shark]

Goals: Get strong,

Is that goal SMART? 

[nai]

Rediscover MoJo.

M - knot still in back, opted to push on through it.

Board warmup.
Max Hangs. Scores improved.
Scap shrugs - not sure what's happened to my left arm/shoulder but a lot weaker
Few bits of HI core
Managed a one armer first time in a few years.


T - felt ok so went with 4 rep repeaters, made some good gains a few years back following a Max Hangs, Repeaters, Rest, Repeat schedule
Bit experimental, felt a bit underdone after one block so repeated it, might have been a mistake...
TRX

W hip and leg &  shoulder mobility

Th -
Tired Tried to get going for Max Hangs but couldn't even complete warm ups.
Left shoulder a bit tweaky so quit rather than try and struggle through
Might not have been as bad as it felt because I did a number of hangs at 80-90% and did manage to hang the 40mm(?) 3 finger pocket on a BM2K with one arm

DL, OH squat, Hamstring extension

F - Rest but big session with Armaid and lot of forearm stretches, hips and legs, shoulder mobility

S cracked and had 45 minutes in garage, mostly lapping my HI Aero circuit. Got a bit of a pump on.  Hips and legs mobility

S nowt. More armaid and stretches

[Nutty]

Goals: Get strong,

Is that goal SMART? 

Don't start on that! All my current goals are pretty nebulous and I wouldn't put a timescale on anything right now for fairly obvious reasons that are completely beyond my control.

[cheque]

Good effort everyone who’s training. Impressed there aren’t more injuries be honest. 

M- Nothing

T- Walk to Bell Hagg and back

W- Nothing

T- Nothing

F- Built new shelves for my studio. Fitting them in turned out to require moving almost every other piece of furniture in there including “the big shelves” which house my entire vinyl collection so this involved a lot of carrying records, furniture and music gear around the flat.

S- Nothing.

S- Walk to Rivelin and back. This was ace. The last time I went to a crag (Burbage South on March 15, pretty much the last time I want anywhere apart from Bell Hagg and the supermarket) I was wearing my coat and gloves the whole time and noticed that there were big pools of water below the crag in places where you’d normally dump your bag and stand around belaying. Today I left the flat without even a jumper, the walk up through the woods below Rivelin was almost completely dry and the first curly shoots of bracken were appearing. A weird feeling.

Rivelin was eerily quiet, not only were there no climbers (although I was surprised to see every major route right of the Needle fully chalked  ) but with the wind blowing over the crag and hardly any traffic on the A57 I could hear bees buzzing about from 6-7m away. On a sunny bank holiday Sunday.

Walked back through what I found out is called the Fox Hagg nature reserve- didn’t know this was even a thing despite it being right near my home.

Even less training this week. I seem to have settled into the lifestyle I had before I started climbing- not leaving the house and staying up till the early hours every night in my home studio- the only real difference being that the only recreational substance I’m fuelling it with is chocolate. Fun but a recipe for being tired all the time (particularly now I’m back working today  ) and very bad for my prospects of being able to climb well once this is all over. Changes to sleep and exercise patterns coming this week.

[Bradders]

M - lunchtime 20mins yoga

T - warm up digging in the garden, then 50 pull ups, general hangs, etc. Then 19mm edge half crimp 20s +10kg, +15kg, +20kg and 5x +25kg with 2 minute rests. Pretty close to failure on last hang. Few warm up one arm hangs and mono pick ups then 5x 10s each arm on large outside slot pinching the door frame with other arm. Pretty flipping maximal. Superset these with 10s 17kg middle open mono pick ups.

W - garden board built

T - set most of the holds. Took ages as I don't have a particularly suitable drill. Had a brief play.

F - set rest of the holds I have. Had a session and made up a few good feeling problems, including one I thought climbed really well and felt difficult-ish. Did about an hour and a half including warm up.

S - power hour on the board including warm up. Warm. Tried the good one from day before again and couldn't do it (tried it again on Monday in much better conditions and couldn't link the last 3 moves...tough!). Afterwards did 6 rounds of circuits comprising 5 strict pull ups +4.5kg, 5 leg raises +4.5kg, 10 press ups and 30s planks.

S - rest

[tomtom]

Can you upload some videos of you on your board, Tom? Would be cool to see it in action.

Here you are. Session deux... finishing swing dabs hard to control! Lots of tweaks to come..

[JohnM]

Lockdown week 4

Weight: The wrong side of 150lbs

M: Run 10km 550m elevation gain.

T: Run 13km 545m elevation gain. Can't remember, maybe a set of repeaters.

W: Run 26km 1300m height gain.

T: Can't remember, maybe a set of repeaters.

F: 12km cycling + hiking + boozey picnic.

S: Shoulder recruitment + core. Travelling pull ups (20), pulley assisted one-armers (5 each side 11.75kg left, 10.5kg right). Max. hangs - build up to 32.5kg on a 15mm edge x 3 (6-7 seconds). I will stick at this weight until I can complete 5 sets at 7 seconds with better form (strict half crimp). Run 13km 460m height gain.

S: Run 36km 1600m height gain.

I didn't bother doing many pull-ups or hangs this week. A mixture of low motivation but also needing a rest so I don't end up with a dodgy shoulder/elbow. Need to write my sessions down on the day though as all the days blur into one and I can't remember what I did or when. Did loads of running (~100km week) and mainly felt pretty good.

[Will Hunt]

Can you upload some videos of you on your board, Tom? Would be cool to see it in action.

Here you are. Session deux... finishing swing dabs hard to control! Lots of tweaks to come..

Hopefully not pulleys! Good stuff. From my armchair, I'd say maybe remove some footholds. And maybe take every other hold on a row and move it down by half a row to create more variety of moves (that'll happen anyway as you add more holds though). Something I'm just learning is that you never have enough holds.

I noticed the Martin Simpson syke choons. Nice.

[tomtom]

Footholds already tweaked once... happy with the number - and spacing - might make the edge ones closer to the edge. The hardest thing at the moment is keeping feet on - which is an aim. Those jenga blocks are slick - harder to stick (IMHO) than the textured small screw ons you can buy. A poor mans chrome domes.

[nai]

Not having a jug as the finishing hold kind of extends your problem a bit. Obviously there's a balance between pinging backwards and all that but I'd make it something you have to fight to hit, hold and match rather than something you can launch at knowing you're likely to stick it.
I know it's early days but you could also do variations like just using one foot per move so you have to really generate tension, etc.

[tomtom]

Not having a jug as the finishing hold kind of extends your problem a bit. Obviously there's a balance between pinging backwards and all that but I'd make it something you have to fight to hit, hold and match rather than something you can launch at knowing you're likely to stick it.
I know it's early days but you could also do variations like just using one foot per move so you have to really generate tension, etc.

Yes - thanks. I did have a row of holds along the top - and I'm going to put a rail along the top edge as the finsishing rail then put a final row of holds 15 cm from the top (kind of where the wooden blocks are). So as you said - one final move to hold the penultimate hold and slap for the victory rain (happy ending)..  When the kicker is in (I was going to cut it this afternoon but no time now) then I can also start with hands on the next row down too - which is another 40cm lower.

You've seen I also have my half spheres for foot torture when the jenga blocks get too easy! (on one of those problems I cheated and used a bolt on for feet (soooo much easier)...

At the moment it feels about right - I'm getting a good work out in 60 min (1 min off 3 min rest) with shoulders, arms, core and fingers all feeling suitably worked.

[Dolly]

At the great risk of sounding like/actually being Martin Goodman from Friday Night Dinner I’ve got bloody elbow bursitis
Yes it bloody hurts
Been taking naproxen but I’ve basically just got one arm ATM


I can’t climb and I e been trying to do as much one handed gardening as I can(possible good
band name) Pruning and lifting , even tried a bloody core workout
I’ve done some Bulgarian bag squats as well but we’ve all got a limit
Anyway main reason I’m here




Romy Gill aubergine curry with home made chappatis reyt
Vegan Shepherds pie with cabbage Yorkshire puddings and obvs Hendos
Thais aubergine and courgette curry. Amazing
Spaghetti con salsa pizzaiola
BBQ veggie burgers
BBQ Szechuan style salmon
Korean birimbap
Middle Eastern mezzo home made Babbage ganoish (smart) hummus zhatar flatbread yoghurt and tahini dip Lebanese sesame seed spicy salad and shop bought falafels (shame)
Homemade nettle wild garlic and nettle pesto (from garden) with I think fusilli


Also boss found 8 bottles of Chateau bel Air 2010  that I’d put in the summerhouse 3 years ago and forgotten about and still tastes good

[shark]

At the great risk of sounding like/actually being Martin Goodman from Friday Night Dinner I’ve got bloody elbow bursitis
Yes it bloody hurts
Been taking naproxen but I’ve basically just got one arm ATM
I can’t climb

I had it 4 years ago but although it looked bad it didn’t actually stop me climbing or training as long as I took care not to bang it. Swelling went down in a week but was tender for a while after

Also boss found 8 bottles of Chateau bel Air 2010  that I’d put in the summerhouse 3 years ago and forgotten about and still tastes good

Mmmmm

[Duma]

8 bottles of Chateau bel Air 2010  that I’d put in the summerhouse 3 years ago and forgotten about and still tastes good fresh

Ftfy

[Duma]

Also what's Yr baba ganoush recipe, going to try making some this week if the supermarket's got tahini. Did you char aubergine on the braai?

[cheque]

You’ve got to have one of the lowest board:climber size ratios on the planet there TT! What are its dimensions compared to your reach and span?

[tomtom]

You’ve got to have one of the lowest board:climber size ratios on the planet there TT! What are its dimensions compared to your reach and span?

Its 3m from lowest foothold to top edge. I can reach 2.55 on tippy toes standing vertically - doing that at 50+ degrees off vertical is somewhat harder!

[cheque]

  I think the angle of the board and the video perspective  must make it look smaller than it is.

[SA Chris]

Plus tomtom climbing on it makes everything look smaller!

[tomtom]

Plus tomtom climbing on it makes everything look smaller!

Time to get creative with the camera angles..

[andy popp]

Also what's Yr baba ganoush recipe, going to try making some this week if the supermarket's got tahini. Did you char aubergine on the braai?

No doubt Dolly has his own answer, but I've used this one many times with good results.

https://cookieandkate.com/epic-baba-ganoush-recipe/