On the pull-up theme - what’s the current consensus re Bachar ladders? Are they outdated and injury-inducing relics of an ancient civilisation? It struck me that, together with a fingerboard they could be quite useful for slightly more climbing specific strength exercises...
My, this thread is getting long.30 pull-ups is a mere warm up for the Leeds Crew (6 min 30 sec)...
Cast off any ideas about there being two types of fingerboarding that do two different things and view the varieties of protocols on a spectrum of strength and strength endurance with variation in intensity and time under tension.
Quote from: Rob F on April 13, 2020, 03:54:22 pmMy, this thread is getting long.30 pull-ups is a mere warm up for the Leeds Crew (6 min 30 sec)...Given the maximum pull-ups that an olympic gymnast achieved was 40, and that was without strict form, 30 pull ups looks pretty hard! And those guys clooked proper strong
Thanks Nibile as usual someone to rely on re strength facts. I have never tried to do 30 nor am I suggesting I could, I just didn’t think it sounded too much for and elite athlete to be able to do it. Like you I suspect the gymnasts just did it off the couch.
Quote from: gme on April 13, 2020, 07:15:19 pmThanks Nibile as usual someone to rely on re strength facts. I have never tried to do 30 nor am I suggesting I could, I just didn’t think it sounded too much for and elite athlete to be able to do it. Like you I suspect the gymnasts just did it off the couch.I'm sure its possible with training, but those guys are definitely elite athletes and didn't make it look easy so guess the question is whether it is useful strength benchmark for high level climbers.
Nibs - have you done 1RM testing?
That’s a different question though. This was about wether steve maish targets were realistic.
Principle of specificity of training (and testing) is always key. Correct me if I'm wrong but Shark isn't going to bang out a 3 minute plank half way up his successful ascent of the Oak...
Quote from: gme on April 13, 2020, 10:04:44 pmThat’s a different question though. This was about wether steve maish targets were realistic.Come on, they are fucking bonkers.Even I am full strength on the fingers test, or near it.Why would a climber stop training fingers and get their dead lift up to >2 bw. Utter madness
Very true re: making things specific for an outdoor project. I was looking at a utube clip of a slowish climber doing something at malham on the catwalk the other day. It fit the 7:3 protocol almost perfectly (x 25 reps).