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Lockdown fingerboarding advice (Read 11003 times)

El Mocho

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Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 09:01:14 pm
Since lockdown started I've tried fingerboarding twice. I think I'm kinda doing the right stuff but not really sure, and to be honest figure seeing I've never done stuff like this before whatever I do (barring getting injured) should do me good.

At the moment I am using 2 edges I've screwed to my board. They are a about 16/17mm but rounded off on the edge. I screwed on 2 smaller ones but I can't hang on them.

The first session I had a go at one arm hangs but couldn't do it so I then did assisted ones pinching a rope at waist height with the other hand (just between index and thumb). I was doing repeaters, I hope correctly. With the one arm hangs did 6 on each arm, hanging for 7s, 3sec off 2 mins rest between arms but then stopped that (in a half crimp/drag)

I then did more repeaters (I think a few sets but can't remember) but this time 2 arms but in nearly full crimp (this is how I am weakest)

Then had a quick play in reducing fingers - back 3 felt pretty much as good as all 4 so didn't bother with that but did do a set on front 2 which felt much harder (think only did one set of these)

Today I thought I would try some more max hang type things. The only weight I could find was a bag of cement (25kg?)

I did the half crimp thing again. Hung for 10 sec and then 50 sec off and repeated 5 times for a set. 5 mins rest and repeated the set 2 more times. I thought it was pretty heavy when I tried walking about but hanging wasn't too bad although I don't know if I could of hung on for 20 sec or not, maybe should have tried to find max time first?

I then stopped even though I didn't feel tired or really that powered out (I felt pretty tired/powered out when doing the last couple of reps but after a couple of min off felt good)

Couple of things:

Finger grip types. At the moment I am snuggling in with my thumb on the edge of the wood when dragging and having thumb over index when crimping, I guess on a beastmaker this wouldn't be possible? This would make it harder but is it an issue to do it? Is there an issue with full crimping or should I be half crimping/dragging?

Is there any advantage over doing 1 arm hangs vs hangs with weight? If you are doing max hangs surely max with 1 or two arms will still be max?

Seeing the most convenient weight I have is the cement bag (I do have 2 but 50kg seems too much) is my 'max hang' work out any good/what could I do differently.

Any other suggestions appreciated.

I'm off to watch tv with my wife now so thanks in advance for any advice that comes in and if people did get excited and reply with any questions etc then I'll have a look in the morning...

tomtom

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#1 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 09:09:37 pm
What did you watch? :D

Duma

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#2 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 09:14:36 pm
I'm def no expert on this but a couple of things I noticed reading that:

Using your thumb makes it easier, and if you're running out of weight may be worth avoiding?

Full crimp is generally considered BAD due to injury risk, not sure how supported by actual SCIENCE this is - but apparently (also not sure how much SCIENCE) half crimp is good for improving full crimp strength with less injury risk.

Re Max hangs, +25kg doesn't sound loads for a man of your pedigree, but maybe it's all cunning and trickery... (for ref i'm shit compared to you and do them +25kg too).  I'd try and use water bottles or something to find your max 7sec hang (mines 30 - 35 depending on season etc), then do a bit less than this - lattice (crimpd app) do 10s for duration but dunno if it matters much. 50s between hangs doesn't sound like much if you're really doing max, think I do 2min but that's prob just cos that's what crimpd gives me.

carlisle slapper

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#3 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 09:16:25 pm
A good session would be to do:

6 hangs on one arm, but alternate on each hang, so 3 on each side.

Do a session of Half crimp (all fingers bent except pinky) and Drags (you're shit on those innit)

do 6 seconds on and 4 off. 2mins 30 rest in between hang types

Do
Half crimp
Drag
Half crimp
Drag
Half crimp
Drag

big rest.

Same again.

Thats pretty good fodder for bog standard improving.

You've probably got a piss weak pinky because you havent used it your whole life but it hasnt held you back much, if you do feel like making it do some work, Aidan can lift 20kg with his in a half crimp on a sling (just the one pinky) so Think of the Gainzz if you built that in? marble wall could be yours pulling on the nanos. build that in after your first set with targetted hangs and drop the second set.
Fill up some water in a rucksack for weight, you only weight about 3 peas and a cabbage anyway dont you? and surely you have some of that spangly DMM revolving fodder for a pulley? Use weights and a pulley as its quantifiable, pinching ropes is still all witchcraft and feelings.

one arm deadhangs are much better than two with weight IMO, i'd use the analogy that i've hit a shitload of holds with one arm above my head and struggled to hold on but not boshed many double dynos out with a weight belt on, so it really helps the body learn to dangle off one limb above the head on crap holds (useful), two armed heavy weighted hangs have many flaws IMO and adding lots of weight when you haven't fingerboarded much is definitely gambling, worth doing for the odd benchmark to figure out your max and work backwards but silly day in day out.
don't deploy the thumb too much when training as it stresses the index joint too much, fine in the up to 60% effort zone but again definitely gambling above that long term.

yetix

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#4 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 09:26:28 pm
Removed on rereading
« Last Edit: April 06, 2020, 09:35:26 pm by yetix »

carlisle slapper

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#5 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 09:27:44 pm
Forgot to add, if you cant do a hang/grip type on one arm at 20% body weight or less taken off then use a bigger hold or just do two arms with a bit of weight on until you can. As the point of one arm hangs only really gets going around that percentage, as with pulley friction and the fact your other arm is pulling on a jug the gains will be muddied above that ratio more and more.

Fultonius

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#6 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 09:56:49 pm
Wait a fuckin minute here. Have you not like flashed 8A? But don't know how to fingerboard. impressed and dismayed in equal portions.

Yossarian

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#7 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 06, 2020, 10:00:21 pm
If so, this is the kind of information I love - like people who have climbed 8B / 8c / flashed 8A, etc who canít do 147...

El Mocho

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#8 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 08:52:57 am
What did you watch? :D

Unorthodox on Netflix. Pretty good.

El Mocho

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#9 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 09:59:33 am
Thanks everyone.

Dan, sorry this will show my lack of understanding of fingerhanging as I have some questions/stuff to clarify...

So the session is all done as one arm stuff (with assistance in my case, I imagine for basic half crimp/drag I'll need less than 20% body weight taken off but I'll have to find out my body weight first)

I go alternate arms each hang and do repeaters (6 sec on 4 off) and during the 'off' swap to the other arm. Do a total of 6 (3 each arm) in half crimp then have 2 min 30 off then repeat but in drag... then repeat etc to do each grip 3 times and then have a big rest.

How close to max hang should I go if doing the repeater stuff? I can rig a revolver and weight to assist.

Ned has got me a beastmaker (not sure which one and not sure when I'll get it - it was in the boot of his car just prior to lockdown...)

If I want to make my pinky super strong I'd do repeaters hanging from that (would def be both hands) or back 2? and I imagine even with 2 hands I'd need assistance.

If so, this is the kind of information I love - like people who have climbed 8B / 8c / flashed 8A, etc who can’t do 147...

I went campusing with Dave Mason one time a few years back and he said I was quite impressive, I don't think he was being sarcastic either.

carlisle slapper

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#10 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 12:11:03 pm
I go alternate arms each hang and do repeaters (6 sec on 4 off) and during the 'off' swap to the other arm. Do a total of 6 (3 each arm) in half crimp then have 2 min 30 off then repeat but in drag... then repeat etc to do each grip 3 times and then have a big rest.

Yep spot on.

How close to max hang should I go if doing the repeater stuff? I can rig a revolver and weight to assist.

70% ish of your max effort. you might want two rucksacks if your drag is wildly different from your crimp to save a huge faff of swapping things over. make sure your form is good so index must be bent on half crimp and for a true drag you want index and ring straight and middle with a slight bend.

I'd do 3-4weeks of this and then do some max hang sessions if you're still stuck inside after that, 1-2 weeks of max hangs after 3-4weeks of repeaters to sharpen up a foundation of dangling.

If I want to make my pinky super strong I'd do repeaters hanging from that (would def be both hands) or back 2? and I imagine even with 2 hands I'd need assistance.

pick stuff up off the floor in a repeater style to just target the pinky, load about 7kg into a rucksack and just pick it up by its top loop but crimp it on the pad just as a mono. work up from there. alternatively do back two etc on the fingerboard and build a hanging routine that is less specific but helps other fingers and muscles too.


jstrongman

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#11 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 01:07:57 pm
Thanks for all the advice Dan. I feel I am in the grey area of now adding too much weight for 2 arms but finding it hard to transition to one arm. I wondered how much success you or other have had with doing the one arm repeaters isometrically (with feet on the floor), rather than using a pulley which is to take off weight?

Murph

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#12 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 02:11:59 pm
Chaps, this has been absolutely brilliant.

As a rank punter in the climbing game seeing this exchange over the last day between two proper good climbers - it's like finding a premiership footballer asking the forum how you do keepie uppies because they never bothered to learn until now. Particularly value the bit about why one is better than two. If only one wasnt so flipping hard. And the reminder to train HC instead of dragging everything.

Thanks for brightening up this corner of lockdown and giving some ideas on what to do with the time. Nice one.

Will Hunt

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#13 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 03:51:33 pm
I'm sure that Bransby just comes on here when he wants to take the piss out of us. It stinks of the hustle.
"Oh hey, guys. I've hit this plateau where I can only climb 8B. So weak! lol! What's fingerboarding all about? Can it make me strong? Oh yeah, and what's a split tip that you guys are always going on about? So random lol"

Doylo

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#14 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 04:00:52 pm
Some of the weakest fingers Iíve ever seen Bransby. Thatís why he has to hold tiny holds with a weird drag while everyone else has to bone them to fuck.

tomtom

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#15 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 05:21:25 pm
I'm sure that Bransby just comes on here when he wants to take the piss out of us. It stinks of the hustle.
"Oh hey, guys. I've hit this plateau where I can only climb 8B. So weak! lol! What's fingerboarding all about? Can it make me strong? Oh yeah, and what's a split tip that you guys are always going on about? So random lol"

I did wonder if Dan had borrowed his login.. :) Hence my question about the film...

carlisle slapper

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#16 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 06:41:01 pm
I wondered how much success you or other have had with doing the one arm repeaters isometrically (with feet on the floor), rather than using a pulley which is to take off weight?

What size edge are you on with 2 arms and how much weight? and what size edge with what grip do you want to jump onto one arm with?

I wouldnt bother with feet on the floor or on a scale unless thats the only option. too much room for error again and general hard work to maintain an effort level. Some of which depends on how many distractions you have whilst training of course but the less fluff you can have the better results you'll see in general.

I would try going down the hold sizes from a jug until you reach the 20% weight mark and work back from there, its likely an arm or shoulder weakness thats causing a big discrepency anyhow if you're doing well with lots of weight on on 2 arms. Normal good form rules apply, shoulder engaged on straight arm etc, might also be good to build in some scap and lat pulls with two arms to target potential weak areas (in the absence of a bod poking you in a test)

Some of the weakest fingers Iíve ever seen Bransby. Thatís why he has to hold tiny holds with a weird drag while everyone else has to bone them to fuck.
Yeah like the non hold on Lanny that no one else can use. Any advice on how to be an utter bastard Ben and raise your level 4 grades whenever you fancy? i mean i've played a few blinders in font like doing kheops second go in front of some poor polish Wad and wondering off but i feel i've got more to learn in the UK and my consistency is poor for winding up the gears instantly, i reckon i need to work on the initial wind up more, you seem good at letting people like Caff talk things up enough to set the bait, really let him analyse just how good an effort he put in and conclude that actually you're gonna get shut down, them BAM, warm up flash, boots back on. I guess thats the stuff you cant teach!


jstrongman

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#17 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 08:17:05 pm

What size edge are you on with 2 arms and how much weight? and what size edge with what grip do you want to jump onto one arm with?
I am currently doing max hangs on the 15mm BM2K + 48kg (body weight ~90kg), I can hang the 45's and sloping 2 finger pockets front 2 for 5 sec, but cannot hang the sloper 35 for more than 5 sec 1 arm or hang the bottom rung at all. Target would be to 1 arm hang a 20mm edge half crimp and open.
 
I think you are probably right it is probably more the shoulder stability, although on the bottom BM rung it still feels like the fingers are opening and just not stable. My issue with pulley is that I cannot find a easy way to fit it without the mount being in the way of either the door or if mounted near the board it gets in the way of the lower rungs.

spidermonkey09

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#18 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 09:08:19 pm
Jesus fucking Christ! +48kg on that edge   :strongbench:


Duma

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#19 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 09:18:34 pm
think you should switch to one arm hangs for the sake of your doorframe jstrongman!

tomtom

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#20 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 09:38:03 pm
Instead of a pulley - Iíve got a hook screwed into the bottom of the BM (pointing downwards) and on that Iíve a snap gate - on which I have 5 therabands tied. The other end of the therabands is tied to a foot loop. Using a portable luggage scales (the ones you hang your suitcase off at the airport) that gives me 15kg of assist (c.3 per band). Iím using this at the moment to work in being able to hold the larger slot one handed with a bent arm and engaged shoulder (and to work stopping the twist). My aim is to over the weeks reduce the assist  - then reduce the handhold size etc.. etc.. etc..

Not sure if this is a good way of doing things (Iím a punter at training) but itís working quite well so far.

Duma

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#21 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 09:44:00 pm
What hook have you got tt? And does it seem up to the job? Like jstrongman I'm struggling to get a nice set up for the pulley.

tomtom

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#22 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 09:46:39 pm
What hook have you got tt? And does it seem up to the job? Like jstrongman I'm struggling to get a nice set up for the pulley.

Its just a crappy picture hook! But it handles 15-20 kg OK. Think I might have had 20+ kg in it when using a pulley for assisted one armrest. Worst that can happen is that it bends out of shape and buy a beefier one!

Duma

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#23 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 09:53:13 pm
pretty sure we don't mean the same thing by picture hook:

not this I'm guessing - https://www.screwfix.com/p/picture-hooks-twin-brassed-100-pack/17238

got a link to something similar?

Fultonius

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#24 Re: Lockdown fingerboarding advice
April 07, 2020, 11:20:42 pm
I just drilled a 6mm hole through the door jamb, into the frame and used a big hex head coach screw to attach an old padeye type thing that I had lying around. It's taken full bodyweight without so much as a creak:


 

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