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[Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+] (Read 14665 times)

Yoof

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Okay, now I feel massively psychic: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-51491662

Awkward sits usually make for not-great problems, but eliminates with stars in guidebooks are what get me really riled up.

Fiend

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Some heartwarmingly spot on posts in the last several. Just cos bouldering is scrittling around on pebbles doesn't mean it should ignore quality, line, purpose, natural lines, aesthetics etc (not a dig at Yoof in particular, just the general concepts).

dunnyg

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Quote
best problems I've ever done have been stand starts

Some boulder problems are pretty much the sits, usually low roofs though (DWR, Keel, DBS all quality problems).

Though these probably aren't the best "lines" I've done, but they are quality problems. I've gone off sit starts recently though.

Many sit starts are a bit shit, doesn't mean they aren't worth doing, but i'd rather do a classic 7A non sit than a 7A sit into a classic 6C for example.

Quality problem name, and it looks desperate. Good effort  :great:

spidermonkey09

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All those problems start on an obvious hold which is the key I think. Sit starts are great as long as they aren't done for the sake of it. I refer to the original VB Peak Bouldering talking about a possible sit to Pebble Arete at PLantation:

'...but really, have you nothing better to do?"

Agree this looks like a good addition to one of the best boulders on grit though!

JamieG

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I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names (especially long ones). Even though this is a good pun, it isn't a good name for a boulder problem in my opinion. And the problem itself does look pretty cool. In the long run I suspect people will just refer to it is the sit-start to egg arete anyway.

abarro81

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I love them. Basically the main reason to go to Griff's is to find new link-ups to use more lamb related puns

Fiend

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In the long run I suspect people will just forget this travesty ever happened and assume the knee-level chalk was someone trying to dry the footholds.
:smartass:

teestub

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Controversial opinion on a bouldering forum but all the best problems I've ever done have been stand starts.

This is because you are a route climber, and have no appreciation of the finer side of bouldering, and are essentially just looking for small trad routes  :lol:

Bradders

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Controversial opinion on a bouldering forum but all the best problems I've ever done have been stand starts.

This is because you are a route climber, and have no appreciation of the finer side of bouldering, and are essentially just looking for small trad routes  :lol:

Yeah, there are actually loads, off the top of my head; Tourniquet, Little Women, Zoo York, Mossatrocity, Master Kush, Knight Rider, Sweet Dreams, Hispaniola, Jason's Roof, Sleepy Hollow Sit...I could go on. Majority of those incidentally have totally legit and worthwhile stand starts.

I have to say I think a sit is obvious on RT and adds a little difficulty, plus it's lime.


Totally agree, it's dead obvious. Just saying punters (me) shouldn't be excluded from trying a quality 7C.

36chambers

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I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names (especially long ones).

Careful now, you might get puntered for being boring :P

spidermonkey09

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This is because you are a route climber, and have no appreciation of the finer side of bouldering, and are essentially just looking for small trad routes  :lol:

Knew this would get a reaction! Hard to challenge though, I think that slightly longer problems with a distinct line/through a good feature are just more my sort of thing. I will think of the dirtiest lowball problem I've done with amazing moves and get back to you...

JamieG

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I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names (especially long ones).

Careful now, you might get puntered for being boring :P

Haha, yeah I'd probably deserve it too. Getting old and grumpy I think.  I just want problem names to be inspiring or at least informative. I don't even mind wordplay e.g. Careless Torque is great name for a problem especially a techy arete. But there is just something about tortured pun names that doesn't do it for me. Bouldering equivalent of dad jokes.

Bonjoy

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Whilst on this boulder Ned did a sitter to the right arete, looks like it uses some lovely slopers. Not sure of the name? Any ideas Jon? But think he said it clocks in around 7C.

He did but I can't recall the details either.

As for giving sitters independent names, sometimes i do, sometimes I don't. Depends on if there is a great name/pun crying out to be used and/or on the stature of the sitter relative to the stander.
The most recent sitter I did was to a problem called Motion of Confidence and it just seemed like a waste of a good name not to call the sitter Unimpeachable, as it was timely and fitted the name theme.
Sometimes I think sitters of high quality get lost in guides when mentioned as footnotes, especially if they don't have an independent name. Adding a separate and distinct name at least gives a clue that  the FAer thought the climb was significant. Any time I call something Such and Such Sit Start you can assume the problem was fairly trivial.
Plus adding 'sit start' to a name can sometimes make the name long and annoying to say. For instance I chose 'Sitting in Oxford' over 'Living in Oxford Sit Start' for this reason.

cheque

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I wonder if I am in the minority but I have grown quite tired of punny problem names

My only problem with them is when all the problems on a boulder or section of crag have names based around similar puns like at the Eagle Stone or Conies Dale- no one can ever remember which one is which, defeating the purpose of naming them in the first place.

(especially long ones).

 :agree: Names with more than about five syllables are pointless as they'll just get shortened anyway. Once you're into Clive Coolhead... or Problem Name (Problem Sub-name) territory then the pretentiometer goes into overdrive.

Bonjoy

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I believe the accepted maximum syllable total is six. More than six is only allowable for ironic effect (Dad's Arete - A Belly Full of Brad Berries)

Yoof

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I don't even mind wordplay e.g. Careless Torque is great name for a problem especially a techy arete. But there is just something about tortured pun names that doesn't do it for me. Bouldering equivalent of dad jokes.

Funny you mention Careless (shortened even though it's 3 syllables long). Almost went with "Egg's Torsion" for this with Careless as the inspiration, but decided it was a bit too serious for such a silly problem.

PS Dad jokes are great

JamieG

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Haha, that actually might have been a better name in my opinion. Maybe I need to up my Dad joke game, I do have a young daughter now.

Anyway it seems like i'm in the minority and it's not like I can stop the naming. So i'll just groan to myself when the next bad pun comes along.

P.s. Dad's Arete - A Belly Full of Brad Berries is even worse!

Will Hunt

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Vaguely related. Does anybody have a view on how misspelled words should be treated when putting new problems into guides?
Example - Albatross at Eldwick was originally spelled Albatros and that spelling has propagated. It could be done on purpose but I'm not sure.

Bonjoy

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Hard to say, it might be misspelled for some subtle reason you haven't worked out. The only correction I've made in a guide was to a route which was effectively climbing a route traverse called Noah's Ark in reverse and had been (clearly misspelled)as Kra Shoan in the previous book.

To people against  independant names for sit starts I put this question. Would Burbage really be a better place if Submergence and Blind Drunk were instead called Arete Problem Sit Start and Remergence Sit Start?

Fiend

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Yes. But anyway, those problems are not shit, right? What about something like Fuji Heavy Industries which looks complete dung and gets the more flamboyant name?

36chambers

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To people against  independant names for sit starts I put this question. Would Burbage really be a better place if Submergence and Blind Drunk were instead called Arete Problem Sit Start and Remergence Sit Start?

So is Blind Drunk the sit to Remergence, and Submergence the sit to Arete Problem?? Is that the right way round?

JamieG

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Bonjoy, this is interesting. I'm all for naming sit-starts something different but preferably related to the original. Since as you suggest it makes a venue and the problem itself somehow more legit and inspiring. I think that is why I'm not a fan of over the top pun names, it actually takes away from the problem and I feel less inspired.

tomtom

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Yes. But anyway, those problems are not shit, right? What about something like Fuji Heavy Industries which looks complete dung and gets the more flamboyant name?

Climbs really well though! The name is incongruous for BBg S...

steveri

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Does anybody have a view on how misspelled words should be treated when putting new problems into guides?
Good question, I mentioned a few misspelled song titles in proofs during the 90s Dorset boom. They went in the Rockfax like that but there could be a sound reason of course.

Bonjoy

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To people against  independant names for sit starts I put this question. Would Burbage really be a better place if Submergence and Blind Drunk were instead called Arete Problem Sit Start and Remergence Sit Start?

So is Blind Drunk the sit to Remergence, and Submergence the sit to Arete Problem?? Is that the right way round?
Yes

 

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