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[Peak][Cratcliffe][Chancellor of The Eggs Checker (Egg Arete Sit Start)][7A+] (Read 14654 times)

Yoof

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Managed to scrape my way up the sitter to egg arete today. Not heard of anyone doing this before(?), and enjoyed it enough to put 5 sessions in. Start sitting on the right side of the arete. Getting "the" hold is really knacky but not that hard.


old cheese

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Great! That looks worth a tickle. I love the fact that the top still
looks like the hard bit though

Yoof

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Had a double palm slip from the last move on my last session... Proper gutting. Definitely not completely over when you get stood up!

James Malloch

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Looks horrible! My exact anti-style haha!!

Is the knee pad to help with the falling back at c.8 seconds. Didn’t notice it was on until then end and tried to work out what it was on for :-)

Yoof

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Haha, yea I do enjoy how awful it is :p

That's the one! Reckon it'd be much harder without the kneepad as your whole body wants to come off backwards when you let go with the left hand

Bonjoy

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Nice work, looks good that.

Fiend

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That looks an absolutely abysmal way to ruin a lovely and beautiful stand-up problem. Should have posted in the NNFN thread just for doing it.

Good name tho, not that it warrants one.

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bolehillbilly

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Looks like a lot of frustrating fun, a bit like the stand.

moose

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When Alexander of Macedonia was 33, he cried salt tears because there were no more worlds to conquer … Yoof is but a youth!
« Last Edit: February 12, 2020, 08:39:42 pm by moose »

36chambers

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Good name tho, not that it warrants one.

:off:

Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".

Looks like a worthwhile addition though :)

monkey boy

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Whilst on this boulder Ned did a sitter to the right arete, looks like it uses some lovely slopers. Not sure of the name? Any ideas Jon? But think he said it clocks in around 7C.

Yoof

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Thanks all (?). It's a good bit of fun. Feind I'll post on NNFN now.


Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".


I often see this a a bit of a lost opportunity for some word association/play, provided the sitter adds a distinct crux. One example being Danny V's immaculate Main Vein Sit. I was pretty sad he didn't name it Vena Cava or similar because the line is so good it seems a shame just to append "sit" to the name.

Will Hunt

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Personally, I'm with 36C on this one. Opens up all sorts of avenues for eliminates and right/left-hand versions of things getting given new names which can become very confusing.

Obviously it's your problem, so it's up to you. Just my personal take.

Dexter

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Thanks all (?). It's a good bit of fun. Feind I'll post on NNFN now.


Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".


I often see this a a bit of a lost opportunity for some word association/play, provided the sitter adds a distinct crux. One example being Danny V's immaculate Main Vein Sit. I was pretty sad he didn't name it Vena Cava or similar because the line is so good it seems a shame just to append "sit" to the name.

Personally I think Vain Mane would work too

Nigel

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Managed to scrape my way up the sitter to egg arete today. Not heard of anyone doing this before(?), and enjoyed it enough to put 5 sessions in. Start sitting on the right side of the arete. Getting "the" hold is really knacky but not that hard.



It has been done before by James Thornton, last year. We were just messing about so didn't think to record it. I would have thought it has been done before then as well, but once again its never been recorded so no harm in that, it seemed a decent wee thing.

Yoof

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Yeah there's definitely a murky line between <new name>, <climb name>,  and <climb name> sit . I'll not throw a paddy if people call it egg arete sit start.

Nice one then James!

Bradders

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Good name tho, not that it warrants one.

:off:

Perhaps I'm just dull, but it's a pet hate of mine when people do sit starts and don't call it "<climb name> sit start".

Looks like a worthwhile addition though :)

In two minds on this, can see both sides.

Related though; it bothers me more when boulders get written up as a sit start only (I.e. given a name which doesn't include "sit" or "sit start"), when the stand would make a perfectly legitimate and excellent problem in it's own right.

The example that springs to mind is Ribtickler at Goyden. Totally classic lime 7C from standing in an obvious place, but written up only as the sitter. Admittedly the sit only adds three moves but still.

(may be sour grapes having done the stand but not the sit...)

Could easily put people off trying things just because the two aren't recognised as problems worth doing separately.

Will Hunt

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 :agree:

The new Lakes bouldering guide is bad (depending on your point of view of course) for that. There's loads of things that look like great, logical low to mid 7s from a stand but they're sort of shoved away in the text as a consolation prize for the punters (me) who can't do the upper 7s sit starts. They're mentioned almost reluctantly. I'm not sure of the development history but it wouldn't surprise me if the stands were done first with harder sits added later in a lot of cases.

Can you imagine if the guidebook listed Ben's Groove Sit and then had a description flowing with praise and "7B if started off the block like the fucking punter you are" tagged onto the end.

While we're on the subject, sit starts to highballs and tall walls can fuck right off. The guidebook text actually lists a sit start to The Great Flake ffs!

SA Chris

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Related though; it bothers me more when boulders get written up as a sit start only (I.e. given a name which doesn't include "sit" or "sit start"), when the stand would make a perfectly legitimate and excellent problem in it's own right.


Bothers me more when they are written up as an eliminate, when there is a perfectly good non-eliminate version that should be the main prob, then the eliminate written up as such with the harder grade.

Will Hunt

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Related though; it bothers me more when boulders get written up as a sit start only (I.e. given a name which doesn't include "sit" or "sit start"), when the stand would make a perfectly legitimate and excellent problem in it's own right.


Bothers me more when they are written up as an eliminate, when there is a perfectly good non-eliminate version that should be the main prob, then the eliminate written up as such with the harder grade.

Can we have this stuff carved into two stone tablets and brought down from Stanage Pole by Johnny Brown on the next Calling day? Can we at least agree to have it printed onto an A0 sheet and pinned up in every climbing wall in the country?

monkey boy

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Recent favourite of mine was to discover that Slapstick at Brimham is actually listed as a sit start! Pull off floor on jug and move to a jug :wall:

I guess with a lot of these problems, slapstick and Ribtickler included the first ascentionist must have pulled on from sit and so not thought about grade etc from a stand. I have to say I think a sit is obvious on RT and adds a little difficulty, plus it's lime.

shark

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Bothers me more when they are written up as an eliminate, when there is a perfectly good non-eliminate version that should be the main prob, then the eliminate written up as such with the harder grade.

What about the Green Traverse?

Will Hunt

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The Green Traverse at Stanage isn't even the best Green Traverse out there. Choss shit.

spidermonkey09

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Controversial opinion on a bouldering forum but all the best problems I've ever done have been stand starts. Where the sit adds good moves and there is an obvious hold to start off I'm all in favour, but its not uncommon for the the pull-on point to be unobvious or pad stack dependent which without exception makes for a shit problem in my view.... :fishing:

 

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