[shark]

11.3-5 Average 158.4 up 0.3lb

M. AM Took a chance on Secret Garden with Tom. Was dry but really cold. Went to work on Dick Williams. Didn’t do very well and mashed up a tip. Tom got close a couple of times. Eve Ergo Edge weighted deadhangs. Slight improvement on previous Thursday but still way below par

T. Eve Routine colonoscopy. All clear

W. PM Quested out to Anston. Wet. At least dogs got a nice walk

T. Foundry. Warmed up on Wave. Hopeless on campus board and Oak problem. Got fed up trying to work out Moonboard app so back on the Wave and did a level 2 with Toby

F. PM Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge. Fingers finally woke up! Pressed home the advantage and had an extended session.

S. Eve. Sesh at ours with Graeme, Seb and Joe P

S. Bit fragile. PM FB warm up. Popped briefly into to Foundry to see if my poor performance on campus board and Oak problem on Thursday was an aberration. It wasn’t. Systems board. Benchmark moves and AeroCap 20/10s - 2 sets

Disheartening to realise quite how far I am below October strength levels.

Keep plugging away.

[nai]

Got fed up trying to work out Moonboard app

Best way I've found:

Turn the board on and give it a moment to start up, open the app, turn on bluetooth, try to light up a problem and the app will say you're not connected to a board, would you like to connect. Tap Yes and it should find the board and connect

edit: assuming of course it's connecting that you're struggling with

[shark]

Got fed up trying to work out Moonboard app

Best way I've found:

Turn the board on and give it a moment to start up, open the app, turn on bluetooth, try to light up a problem and the app will say you're not connected to a board, would you like to connect. Tap Yes and it should find the board and connect

edit: assuming of course it's connecting that you're struggling with

Hadn’t got that far - it was trying to get a list of easy popular problems.

[cheque]

M- Afternoon off work and stunning weather so pottered up to Stanage and took photos.

T- Fingerboard. I wrote a post on here recently about how weak my fingers are and how I can’t fathom how people can hang anything but the big holds unassisted. On reflection I can’t complain really as I hardly ever do it. Did this session and mused that I don’t really know why I don’t as it doesn’t take too long and isn’t even that hard a session- I think part of the reason I’m not keen on it is it never feels like a big enough workout. Going to try and stick to it and finally see the benefits now.

W- Gym, bike. Finally managed 15 full minutes of my fitness programme then another 12.

T- Rest.

F- Depressed. Didn’t sleep much and hadn’t been stretching enough so didn’t go to the climbing wall.

S- Walked up to Shooter’s Nab from Marsden. The purpose of this was to check out the approach which was worthwhile as it’s changed since the guidebook was published (like a lot of these high moorland crags on the fringes of the Park the landowners seem to be creeping back on their access obligations) and there are mistakes in the guidebook description anyway. Uphill all the way and very very wet (the path is basically a drainage ditch!) and got up and down as quick as possible as we didn’t have much daylight left but could tell that it’s a nice place to climb in the summer.

S- Drove GF to run in, topically enough, Bolsover in the morning. Despite tweaking her knee on the previous days yomp she did well. I’d planned to go to the wall or gym after that but driving back under blue skies decided to get out as I’ll be at work for every second of daylight this week. Walked out to Kinder from the Snake Summit. More exercise than training or rehab (I forgot how flat this walk is- it’d probably take the same time to get to the downfall-side crags from mine this way than by driving to Hayfield and slogging up and feel like less effort!) but good fun with quite dramatic weather.

The combination of midwinter, family stress and political bleakness isn’t making it that easy to stick to my four-days-a-week training plan and I’m cautious about my right wrist still (it only hurts a bit but I’m wary as I’ve had shoulder, elbow and wrist tweaks on that arm this year that I don’t want to take into 2020) so no weights or climbing wall this week. Not standing still though.

[galpinos]

M:
T: Shortish but fun session at Depot with Sam
W:
T:
F: Aero Cap and Max Hangs in the cellar. Felt v.hard
S:
S: Sort session at the Depot. Thoroughly burnt off by Ru and Tim.

Still have a stupid cough and family/work/Christmas are getting in the way of climbing.

[teestub]

T- Fingerboard. I wrote a post on here recently about how weak my fingers are and how I can’t fathom how people can hang anything but the big holds unassisted. On reflection I can’t complain really as I hardly ever do it. Did this session and mused that I don’t really know why I don’t as it doesn’t take too long and isn’t even that hard a session- I think part of the reason I’m not keen on it is it never feels like a big enough workout. Going to try and stick to it and finally see the benefits now.

This is what strength sessions should feel like, especially fingerboarding as you’re working such a small group of muscles. In all strength training there will be a point of noticeable decline in performance, this is the time to stop.

Your ability to hold nothing but the largest holds would seem to tie in with your general climbing grade from what you report here? 

[cheque]

Cheers, yeah I need to get used to it. I do get that finger-fade and I use it to gauge when the session’s over. Part of the problem I had for years was that I didn’t use any kind of assistance to use smaller holds on the fingerboard so I wasn’t getting to that point at all.

I’ve always found fingerboarding highly unsatisfying as it reminds me I’m weak, doesn’t feel like I’ve really done much after and I always hated that feeling of having sore/ tight forearms and nothing else. These days the last one doesn’t bother me at all and I don’t have the finger tweaks that used to put me off it either so I just need to get used to it and hope to gradually improve.

Your ability to hold nothing but the largest holds would seem to tie in with your general climbing grade from what you report here?

It certainly corresponds to my current psyche for easy trad routes that for sure! I am basically still recovering from a massive list of injuries though and although my fingerboard performance is not far off what it was before I have climbed harder than I do on a week-to-week basis at the moment- I’ve redpointed 7a since my accident and in 2017 (pre-doomsday) I climbed 4 7A boulder problems and 3 7a+ sport routes, plus trad up to E2 and a lot of stuff in the grades just below that stuff. Far from the highest numbers in the world but possibly better than my fingerboarding ability would suggest? Depends on how you expect these things to correlate I suppose!

[SA Chris]

T- Fingerboard. I wrote a post on here recently about how weak my fingers are and how I can’t fathom how people can hang anything but the big holds unassisted. On reflection I can’t complain really as I hardly ever do it. Did this session and mused that I don’t really know why I don’t as it doesn’t take too long and isn’t even that hard a session- I think part of the reason I’m not keen on it is it never feels like a big enough workout. Going to try and stick to it and finally see the benefits now.

I'm the same. I have a lack of knowing what is good or bad in a BM routine, so just go for one of the easier BM App Workouts, but never get more than a 1/3 of the way through them because a) they take a lot of time, to do the recommended reps and b) by the time I'm that far there are no real productive hangs left in my hands and I give up about halfway through the set.

Resolving to use it more often as of new year.

[tim palmer]

Did this session and mused that I don’t really know why I don’t as it doesn’t take too long and isn’t even that hard a session- I think part of the reason I’m not keen on it is it never feels like a big enough workout. Going to try and stick to it and finally see the benefits now.

I used to dislike fingerboarding for the same reason,  doing hangs is boring and you don't feel like you do much.  I added pull ups to the end of 8s hangs and it makes a much more interesting/ useful session, plus it feels challenging and you get a sweat on.

[teestub]

Cheers, yeah I need to get used to it. I do get that finger-fade and I use it to gauge when the session’s over. Part of the problem I had for years was that I didn’t use any kind of assistance to use smaller holds on the fingerboard so I wasn’t getting to that point at all.

I’ve always found fingerboarding highly unsatisfying as it reminds me I’m weak, doesn’t feel like I’ve really done much after and I always hated that feeling of having sore/ tight forearms and nothing else. These days the last one doesn’t bother me at all and I don’t have the finger tweaks that used to put me off it either so I just need to get used to it and hope to gradually improve.

It certainly corresponds to my current psyche for easy trad routes that for sure! I am basically still recovering from a massive list of injuries though and although my fingerboard performance is not far off what it was before I have climbed harder than I do on a week-to-week basis at the moment- I’ve redpointed 7a since my accident and in 2017 (pre-doomsday) I climbed 4 7A boulder problems and 3 7a+ sport routes, plus trad up to E2 and a lot of stuff in the grades just below that stuff. Far from the highest numbers in the world but possibly better than my fingerboarding ability would suggest? Depends on how you expect these things to correlate I suppose!

Sounds like you've potentially identified an area of relative weakness that should be quite easy to improve on.  If you want your session to feel a bot more like you're 'doing something', I'd recommend the 'Integrated Strength' sessions from Bechtel's Logical Progression book. In essence you do a few sets, circuit style of a fingerboard hang, a strength exercise and a stretch, for example:

Set 1: Half Crimp, One Leg Squat, Frog Stretch (repeated 3 times)
Set 2: 3 Finger Drag, Overhead Press, Splits (repeated 3 times)
Set 3: Sloper, Pull up, Hamstring Stretch (repeated 3 times)

I like this routine as you can pack a lot into a short space of time, you lose the waiting around resting bit of the fingerboarding, and you get stretching into your routine, which is something I am rubbish at.

[tomtom]

Greetings....

M: Cheeky hour at Helsby - took a while to get going but back to where I was last session. Drove to London straight afterwards - running a workshop for the rest of the week...

Th: Drive back from London...Having missed the 'decent' weather.

Fri: Shit weather. Wife and son off to London - drove them to the station then went to the Depot. Had an alright session - made some progess on a couple of problems on the 50.

Sa: WANTED to go to N.Wales - but forecast was dire - I ran some options via Fiend on text and as he put it "it would be an exercise in survival rather than bouldering". Did loads of jobs around the house, switched over the winter tyres - waited for the heavy rain showers to stop. In the end went up to Wilton 3 about 3.30 - and the only problem that was dry was the one I wanted to work! Had a good hour/90 min there - All moves done in the overlap! Just need the weather/work combination to be right then game on. Came close - ish but climbing under lights and head torch is weird - flattens everything..

Su: Forecast looked good for SW grit.. didnt fancy Roaches et al on a weekend. Wanted to go to Blackstone, but motorway cameras just showed snow - and quite a bit of it. Dithered about. Ended up at Helsby again - few walkers around (good) and had a decent session working stuff.

A hard week work wise - now work and travel are mostly done for the year... so time to concentrate on the bouldering! Still managed 4 short sessions though - so a good week in many ways. Hoping for good weather on Thursday.

It really does feel like this is the most sustained period of shit climbing weather I've exerienced in the last 10 years or so...

[nai]

Hadn’t got that far - it was trying to get a list of easy popular problems.

Tap on the board icon bottom left
on the next screen the Filter icon bottom right
on the next slide the black dot on the scale over to 6B then tap Benchmarks then the X top right and you'll have 43 problems to choose from.
Select a problem then swipe left and right to move on.

[nai]

STG: Moonboard 7A, Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M -
Managed to stop myself going to Rowtor, nearly chose Staffs but opted for Froggatt in the end. Bit of a toss up wjether to start at Hot Toddy or Stottie.  Chose Stottie in the end, can't remember my reasoning but it turned out wrong anyway. Made marginal progress actually hitting the hold and brefly sticking it a coupel of times but never in danger of doing it. Got very cold in shade and strong wind and had to move on.

Hot Toddy was much more sheltered and the sun was just coming around. Went from base, mid, softshell plus 2 hats, down and mittens between attempts to tee-shirt. Worked it out, some lovely moves, and felt like it was probable that I'd do it. Unfortunately I made several errors on my first attempt but found myself at the final hard move, should have dropped off and go for a cleaner run, was pretty confident I had a good sequence and could do it. But I went for it, missed by a mile and tore a massive, deep hole in my index pad.  Twat. Obviously I taped up, sat down and ate lunch while mulling over trying it again. Half an hour later I had another attempt which was much cleaner but unsuccessful, after that fatigue kicked in and with the sun fully round the friction disappeared and that was that

T - conditioning

w rest
Th intended to but CBA

Fri bad mood like eveyone else. Had intended to go to a wall but couldn't face it. Avoided tv, radio and social media, taped up my tip and hit the garage. Listened to the whole of Sandinista and London Calling.  40 year old songs about racism, the rise of the right, capitalism.  Plus ca change....
Decent session, felt strong
weighted pullups & pressups
HI Core

S

S garage session, fairly decent but felt like I faded quickly
pyramid of scap shrugs
core

[Coops_13]

W: Apartment Gym, 10 mins elliptical then 30 pull-ups, 30 press-ups. 5 sets of 6, didn't want to overdo it. Did five sets of lying shoulder press shrug things and then some squats and back stretches

F: Apartment Gym, 10 mins elliptical then 30 pull-ups, 30 press-ups. 5 sets of 6. Shoulder exercises and stretching

S: Keystone skiing. Lots of powder. > 50 inches have fallen in the last four days. Quick morning session as had to get back for a Christmas party. Managed 21.5k descent and 13 runs. Some deeeep blues on the back mountains and some nice steep blacks

S: Apartment Gym, 35 pull-ups, 35 press-ups. 5 sets of 7. Shoulder exercises and stretching

Pull-ups are improving. Interestingly, no pain from them wrapped or thumb over grip. Press-ups sometimes uncomfortable. Pain comes more from everyday tasks...

[tomtom]

Select a problem then swipe left and right to move on.

A metaphor for modern life right there

[SA Chris]

S: Keystone skiing. Lots of powder. > 50 inches have fallen in the last four days. Quick morning session as had to get back for a Christmas party. Managed 21.5k descent and 13 runs. Some deeeep blues on the back mountains and some nice steep blacks

It's great back there, the tree riding is amazing too. Worth getting the cat when it's running for a couple of dollars, flat track to get out though, easier on skis than board.

[36chambers]

Pain comes more from everyday tasks...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - weights, ab wheel, abs Tabata.
Tue - fingers, garage session. Good. Pull ups. Tested the Lattice edge after ages at +2 and +4 kg.
Wed - rest.
Thu - garage, 14 mm edge, back3 and front3 hangs +25 kg x10. Pull ups.
Fri - weights.
Sat - loaded carries, push ups, dumbbell complex.
Sun - bar work, various pulling excercises with barbell.

[Bradders]

It really does feel like this is the most sustained period of shit climbing weather I've exerienced in the last 10 years or so...

Chin up! It always FEELS that way when the weather is so changeable and doesn't line up with your days off.

[cheque]

I used to dislike fingerboarding for the same reason,  doing hangs is boring and you don't feel like you do much.  I added pull ups to the end of 8s hangs and it makes a much more interesting/ useful session, plus it feels challenging and you get a sweat on.

After I read this I realised that last winter I did pushups after fingerboarding- I needed to build all that strength back up as well and it did make the sessions feel more meaty. I think I'll use the not-too-taxing nature of only fingerboarding to fit it in between other more tiring days this time though.

If you want your session to feel a bot more like you're 'doing something', I'd recommend the 'Integrated Strength' sessions from Bechtel's Logical Progression book. In essence you do a few sets, circuit style of a fingerboard hang, a strength exercise and a stretch, for example:

Set 1: Half Crimp, One Leg Squat, Frog Stretch (repeated 3 times)
Set 2: 3 Finger Drag, Overhead Press, Splits (repeated 3 times)
Set 3: Sloper, Pull up, Hamstring Stretch (repeated 3 times)

Yeah, still not quite as simple as knocking out a one-legged squat or the splits unfortunately! 

It really does feel like this is the most sustained period of shit climbing weather I've exerienced in the last 10 years or so...

Chin up! It always FEELS that way when the weather is so changeable and doesn't line up with your days off.

TomTom does appear to have four days off a week though. 

[galpinos]

Yeah, still not quite as simple as knocking out a one-legged squat or the splits unfortunately! 

No, but you could just do two legged squats, two legged weighted squats etc. You could also add press ups, one arm dumbbell shoulder press and dumbbell bent over rows as mentioned in the Crimpd App workouts. Flexibility, though obvious a tricky area, is still something to work on as well (as I don't and it's a detriment to my climbing)

[teestub]

Yeah, still not quite as simple as knocking out a one-legged squat or the splits unfortunately! 

No, but you could just do two legged squats, two legged weighted squats etc. You could also add press ups, one arm dumbbell shoulder press and dumbbell bent over rows as mentioned in the Crimpd App workouts. Flexibility, though obvious a tricky area, is still something to work on as well (as I don't and it's a detriment to my climbing)

As Galpinos said, these were just example exercises, it needs tailoring to your strength level. You can do two leg squats with weight or assisted one leg squats. I’m nowhere near doing splits but I am about a foot closer to it since I started stretching regularly.

[shark]

Re doing other stuff whilst fingerboarding then if that is what it takes to sustain interest and keep doing sessions then that is the best solution...for you.

My take for max strength gains (rather than finger endurance) is that it is best to do hangs that are at your absolute limit. For me that means very long rests between hangs then psyching up and prepping for a limit hang as if it was redpoint with the primary aim of beating the results of the last session. I wouldn't want to compromise any of my redpoints by doing other exercises inbetween and the same applies to fingerboarding. Last night that meant a session spread over three hours of six progressive hangs with increasing weight and followed by three hangs at the heaviest weight until I was on the decline. In between hangs I sorted out the washing, picked my daughter up from yoga, completed one codeword, two killer sodukus, attempted a cryptic crossword and surfed social media.   

Even though my sessions take so long if I was going to do extra exercises it would still be after I'd completed the hangs.

[abarro81]

Last night that meant a session spread over three hours of six progressive hangs with increasing weight and followed by three hangs at the heaviest weight until I was on the decline.

One hang every 20 minutes... this is a joke right? I'd need to do a couple of hangs just to warm up again before each hang  A short (5-15s) hang is like a 2-3 move boulder...

[teestub]

N=1 but I’ve had much better improvements in finger strength in this sort of set up that just max hangs. Some interesting research referenced in the Bechtel book that you can get good gains in isometric strength at submaximal loads.