[Mr E S Capegoat]

I went on Instagram for the first time in ages yesterday. I was amazed at the positivity and authentic and genuine psyche the members of the British climbing community has for each other. It was so great to see. There was so much modesty and positivity and mutual support. Incredible. Is this a new thing?

[Fiend]

I can see this going well.........................

[Mr E S Capegoat]

You should have a look Matt. It really is amazing. Literally zero negativity. It’s akin to the positive psychology movement, closely linked to neoliberal policy and consumer culture. The British sport and trad and bouldering brand. Maybe there could be a brand to hold this definition of climbing for us? Something simple and catchy that gives the common community member a sense of identity, held intact by the brand and their ambassadors. Climb Britain maybe?

[dunnyg]

boulder britain?

[Mr E S Capegoat]

It has been said that at times of increased consumerism the increase in alienation leads to patriotism, nationalism and idolatry to give man a sense of self and purpose in an otherwise abstracted world. Hence the popularity of sport climbing, competition, coaching and training programs. People would feel lost and likely go mad without them.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Talking about psyche, has anyone read this drivel?

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christinbury-part-1-article/

Omg

[webbo]

It was readable which puts it way head of most of your stuff Dan.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Well it was written in intelligible syntax if that’s what you mean.

[webbo]

Well there was that. But it didn’t seem like a letter or poem in a set of Psychiatric case notes like some of your stuff does.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Lol I’m genuinely grinning from ear to ear at that. Brilliant. Would you like a copy of my recent mag? It’s quite readable

[Fiend]

Nice, always like a bit of Carlisle Slapper action, he even had a cool dog (which can be a redeeming feature of even the most disreputable people).

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Your idolatry doesn’t surprise me

[Fiend]

It's inspiring.

Quality experiences are in the movement when it comes to limit bouldering

- you could learn from that.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

And enter the ‘pretend’ world of the climbing ambassador and brand athlete. Justifying ones existence as a ‘limit boulderer’

[petejh]

Seems you're currently justifying your existence by satirising climbing ambassadors and brand athletes. Why not jump the fence and see what you're so against. Afraid you might enjoy being a different kind of annoying climber?

[Mr E S Capegoat]

It’s useful to have a counterpoint to the current trends in the scene. I’m not sure there’s much room left on the other side of the fence. This way at least I’m semi conscious of the climbing community dictating my narrative.

[Bonjoy]

Talking about psyche, has anyone read this drivel?

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christinbury-part-1-article/

Omg

Seems a good article. Knowing Dan it comes across to me as honest and uncontrived. He's making points that are accurate and not always appreciated by climbers who don't do new stuff. The stuff about changing perspective on a place as he's grown-up as a climber is something I've experienced.
I think you're maybe viewing this with too cynical an eye Dan.

[SA Chris]

Agree, of all the blog posts to satirise, DV's would be one of the last. Thanks for the link though, I enjoyed reading it.

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Who’s satirising? It’s a curious one, the desire to be accurate and correct. I know your posts Jon (unlike mine) are always very well considered and thought through. Not much risk of being considered ‘wrong’ in there. Yet it all becomes a bit stale somehow. I’ve read two things in relation to the concept of ‘perfection’ in climbing today. DV’s reference to the perfect move and a post by Leo referring to Honnolds free rider solo as perfection or death. Neither of which sit with me well. Because both place an emphasis on the act and rock, alienating the human. The ‘perfection’ is a reflection of what one hopes to attain in oneself but is transient and can never be achieved. But again sold here on these platforms for various reasons. Yes very accurate and concise on one level and superficially excellent no doubt. A bit like a brand new Mac Book Pro.We can see how it functions and worship its symbols but for the common man have no hope of accessing deeper understanding of its workings. The blog read to me as, I got good at bouldering, the places where I boulder are superior, the moves I do are closer to perfection, the places I go and the journey I’ve taken is more special than yours, I have a better understanding than you, if you think your any good doing link ups on limestone for big grades then think again, you are not special.

[Falling Down]

The blog read to me as, I got good at bouldering, the places where I boulder are superior, the moves I do are closer to perfection, the places I go and the journey I’ve taken is more special than yours, I have a better understanding than you, if you think your any good doing link ups on limestone for big grades then think again, you are not special.

Are we reading the same blog Dan??? 

[Mr E S Capegoat]

 

[Fiend]

So is he wrong to slag off scorecard-boosting limestone eliminate link-ups???

[Mr E S Capegoat]

Right or wrong doesn’t really come into it. It was the implicit superiority in the comparison I was remarking on. For me or you it’s pretty much alien anyway. Which is another part of the point. Like how do you relate to Jesus or Abraham Lincoln or Gandhi

[GazM]

Interesting to hear other's points of view, but I struggle with this constant assumption that there's so much inner meaning to other people's climbing exploits and what they share about them. Yeah, sure, there are the Redhead's and the Dawes and Cheetham's, but to me (and many others I assume) it's just going climbing and enjoying it. What's wrong with that?

[Mr E S Capegoat]

That’s the anaesthetising effect of conformity to the narrative laid out for us Gaz. Going bouldering is akin to earning money, in which value is determined in many ways. What rock we climb, how we climb it, how hard it is, who’s company we keep, whether it’s an FA or not etc etc. This is the alienation process. So yeah of course going climbing if is just that why all the other stuff surrounding it. We don’t report our seemingly mundane lives online..... hang on a minute....