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Power Club 503 21st - 27th October (Read 7102 times)

Will Hunt

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Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 27, 2019, 08:22:12 pm
T - Depot. Some indoor climbing.

Sunday - Earl Crag again. Warmed up and had a play on Underpants. Stuck the rail for a moment but span off. Ben did it, to everyone's dismay. Then a play on Lager. Struggled to make the sloper feel like much but did hold it a few times. The move coming into the seam doesn't feel very nice. A bit bunched up. Don't think I'll try this in earnest. Then off to Sloping Beauty. First try was eyeing the top feeling very comfortable. Pulled down to grab the top and fired off with an enormous finger tip flapper. Huge. It was pumping out blood. Much swearing. Put lots of tape on, which got soaked in blood with more pumping out of the top, and pulled back on. A couple of goes later I did it. Fuck you, Sloping Beauty. I reckon it'll take about 3 weeks to heal properly.

I'm other news, dunnyg flashed Colt 45, so the downgrade is very much official.

36chambers

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#1 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 27, 2019, 08:46:41 pm
Fuck you, Sloping Beauty. I reckon it'll take about 3 weeks to heal properly.

Your ego, or your finger?

dunnyg

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#2 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 27, 2019, 09:56:39 pm
Thats my first 7C flash! Just because you did a Turnip impression throwing a paddy then yelling like a nob whilst topping out on sloping beauty, don't take it out on me because I didn't film you for your wlog or whatever your youtube channel is called these days.


yetix

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#3 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 27, 2019, 11:33:09 pm
STG: 100 7As in 2019 (88), another 7C and focus on a short list of problems I'd like to get done.
MTG: 7C+
LTG: 8A

M: sub maximal hangs x6
T: rest
W: pass initially, did Jerry's arete whilst warming up then got on bus stop and fell of the top, pads got blown everywhere so moved onto crafnant. Boy it's sharp there! Didn't manage anything hard there (Rileys Arete sds & Snap Crackle and Pop lower SDS) , but psyched to go back for wonderwall for sure!
T: rest
F: board session at BUK, managed to send a couple of new things which have eluded me in the past (Captain Hook and Hodor) and repeated a few other things (No Country for Old Men, Mawson’s Creek, Lannister Ladder, Captain Longshanks). Came close on a harder thing I've not been able to get close to in the past (Go Go Gadget) . Psyched!
S: rest
S: back to the pass. Warmed up and sent Bus Stop first go from the bottom. Moved onto Lizard King, managed to do from the start to falling off the last hardish move quite a few times but found it hard to commit solo! Lost lots of skin. Will be back with more skin and psych to finish it off soon. Tried Nasa on the way back to the parking and discovered how spent I was.

Rob F

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#4 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 01:11:30 am
Will, that sounds a nasty one. Prime Time Grit Season too.

If you're needing some urgent footage for your WillVlog then let me know. I can borrow your clothes and find a beanie and nip up to Earl as a stunt double. Not sure how to reproduce the blood thing though. Might have to take a bottle of ketchup...

tomtom

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#5 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 07:23:21 am
Effort Will - and sounds like progress Yetix

Mon: Rubicon on my way to work... decent session - up to the RH sidepull on Kudos every attempt, foot swap 3 times and worked out where my RF probably should go for my frame.. Moved on to the Press - getting better - deadpointing at/near on the crimp every time - body getting used to the position and its getting less of a max effort each time. Finished strong.

Tu: Maaaaaad Volume in Hull. Great hour session on the 35 there. Really like that board now. Did two new problems and one I couldn’t do last week. Progress. Good vibes there. It probably looks pitiful from the outside - but I really feel like I’m using my full body to move between holds - throwing, leg kicks, hip thrusts the lot. This is good for me as I rarely do this...

We: rest/work etc.. body felt trashed - core really worked out by the board session - aches around the back of my lower rib cage.

Th: Bad forecast - though it dried up after I went to the wall (typical). Depot - played on the 50. Hard. But got up something on there for the first time :) Felt totally gassed after 40 min.

Sa: It rained. Lots.

Su: Sheep Pen, Ogwen. Never been - what a superb place in great conditions... Perched up above the valley - away from the A5 - the sun spotlighting bits of the valley between the clouds - ideal slabs and Cwm Idwal twinkling away.

Had a full day pass - drove up whilst the rugby was on (figured roads would be quiet!) and had the place to myself for the first 2.5 hours...

Got Klems Bulge after a few attempts (the first moves were really bunched and I had to flag left and straight arm up to the sidepull. Then moved to the Pinch. What a lovely bit of rock. I love how its like the end of the bolder has been sliced off (its split and fallen) so you have the mirror print of the holds you climb on - on the shelf you start/stand on. But I couldn’t get near it. I wasn’t expecting it to be so techy (after thugging up Klems) and I couldn’t get the right balance of left and right footholds for the leap. Its well within deadpoint range, just couldn’t get body position right and kept falling backwards whilst moving up...

Moved to the main boulder feeling pretty done in - was joined by a couple of others. Gnashes pocket was gopping - did Dog Shooter first attempt (yarding up from the sidepull. - great problem) and pottered about on other stuff but wasn’t as psyched there as I was on the other blocks. Packed up - hoovered up some beta from another team who were on the Pinch (and tried some left heel shenanigans that I’d been thinking of in my head) then wandered back tot he first boulder and warmed down going up 4 or 5 top class 5’s and low 6’s. Lovely moving on superb rock in late afternoon autumn sunlight.


(What a great setting...)

gollum

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#6 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 08:15:14 am
M - Still in Scotland, still not feeling 100%,  but definitely improving. Spend a couple of hours at 3 Wise Monkeys in Fort William. A great little friendly wall with a good mix of angles and varied problem together with a bit of a system board/Action Directe simulator in the back corner, if pulling on one finger pockets is your thing. A good session getting lots of volume and a couple of the harder problems in. Spend five minutes right at the end on the system holds and had forgotten just how fun and frustrating this kind of thing can be.

T - Over on Knoydart which is an incredible place. Decide that discretion is the better part of valour so don’t go for a nine hour run in the rain up a couple of Munroes but decide to wander along the beach for a couple of hours and read for the rest of the day.

W - The long journey back home. Safe to say this has not been a typical training week for me so far.

T - Steady session at Leeds Depot in the evening. Zip through all the new blacks in about 40 minutes and then work on a couple of the yellows with some pretty good progress. Getting six of this set done still seems reasonable as have done 5 and pretty close on a few at the moment. Spend some time working on technique on some reds and purples that I have done before.

F - Day trip to Manchester Depot. Do lots of reds and purples including two that take quite a lot of effort through big roofs. Get some good work done on a couple of yellows and manage to do a crimpy one second go. A good day out.

S - Given that I have an ultra marathon next weekend and I’ve not actually run for three weeks I thought I better do something to get back in the flow. Get up early and look out the door and it’s chucking it down so opt for a treadmill session. 8k with 5 at my Marathon pace and 4 at Mrs B’s (much quicker) pace. Despite the fact my cold is still lingering, feels great to be running again. Bonus is that I get home in time to see the rugby and e we hat a cracking game it was.

S - Running again. Very steady hilly 10k exploring the roads around and about. Nice start to the day and once again back in time for the rugby. All very exciting stuff and looks like a good game is set up next week. Have a quandary as to whether to run the ultra next Saturday or watch the World Cup Final. Decisions, decisions.

A bit of a recovery week but seem to be back on track by the end of it and weight has come down a little bit as well which is good.

Back to normality next week I reckon, with big volume being right back in the frame.

nai

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#7 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 08:49:16 am
STG: Moonboard 7A, Lime > Font 7B. Font 7C
Spring 2020 Lime Font 7C.

M
Nuda's Tartan. Could say I did all of Tarantula bar the last two moves (before it joins Meltdown) or could say I did the esy bit but was shutdownon the hard bit   :-\
No doubt did some core or conditioning but can't remember what now

T. Tempted to try grit by the promise of a decent breeze and feels like temps of 7c ish.
Warm up at home and fell upon a new FB programme ~85% intensity 10s hang, 30s rest x10.  All done in 6.5 minutes.
Met Dolly at Froggatt but unfortunately the actual temp was about twice that with little breeze so all a bit Meh.
Did find (crux) and manage The Captain which is great if you like a bit of horizontal fridge hugging on the cheap
Bit of core at home

W rest

Th
Foundry Moonboard. Decent session, a 6A+ flash as a warm up, a 6B+ and two 6Cs, one of which was a flash. Selected and worked a few 6C+s at the end which could be goers fresh
HI Core
Few laps on autobelay

F - home board 5x3 short endurance. Not the best session, failed on problems I'd managed previously.
Scap shrugs. Decent
TRX. Good
12x BW Deadlift. Ok, might be time to push the weight a bit

S rest

Sun -
Home Board.
Scap shrugs at -8kg (PB of 7.5 reps on right arm) and some static holds at -2kg.  Held BW engaged on right for about a second but couldn't initiate a pull.
Brief Core

shark

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#8 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 09:28:16 am
11.0-3

M

T Noon. Malham with Paul. Cloudy cold - Baltic with breeze blowing in. Warm up on Consenting. Go 1 Put clips and discovered the left side of undercut was wet and despite drying attempts remained so. Other lesss crucial holds also wet. Go 2 Ground to falling off by undercut as it wet Go 3 Same as go 2 then spent time on throw move trying Toms low foothold. Felt like I’d grown an inch since last trying it Banged it out a few times sorting out alternate foot sequences . Game changer? Too soon to tell. Did throw (automatically went into high foot but still felt piss) to middle of traverse Go 4 Ground to getting thru to set up for throw Go 5 Ground to tickling undercut. Too tired to do throw. Stripped it. Better performance and session stamina than Friday despite/because being 2kg heavier

W

T

F

S Noon. Scheduled lads Northumberland trip with Mark, Robin and Joe P. Drove up Friday night in heavy rain. Latish start Saturday then Kyloe where we bumped into Andy Mitchell who I hadn’t seen for a while - still caustic. Then met 36 Chambers for first time at the crag who was on the Yorkshireman.  :wave: Crag dry. 6 degrees and struggled to stay warm. Warm ups on left then got stuck into Monty Python direct which I’ve had 3 sessions on previously. Took too many attempts to do the stand. I should be good on this sort of throw move by now  >:( Impressed with Mark who despatched the stand and the sit very quickly cashing in his home woodie dollars. Persisted on the sit till I started going backwards. Didn’t even get to do the throw this time. Tips sore and was thinking of calling it a day but joined the others and 36C and Louise on Hitchhikers block start. Too stretched out when I’ve tried this before to do anything but by standing on a pad on the block made decent fist of it with best go getting feet set up well and lurching to the gaston with my right hand. Had a nap when got back then great meal and gossip at the pub.

S Stunning day. Blue skies, cold but windy. Shlepped up to a place called Hanging Rock. Super exposed so getting buffeted by the Baltic wind. Joined by John W. The classic 7A+ had a fearsome drop which nobody fancied. I wasn’t inspired by the other options there so took photos and mooched till they’d had enough. Decamped to the Bertle Stone at Hepburn which by contrast was super sheltered and too hot. Dolly joined us Warmed up on a 6B+ then we all got stuck into Commando 7A an undercut sit start slab. Hard to do the start without dabbing but got the hang of it in the end and managed a good go ending up lying sideways on the slab before coming off. Worked the top and found a neat press method and refined moves into it. Few more attempts and then got up onto slab and tried to do press but couldn’t so ended up lying sideways again. Seemed like an impossible position to extricate from and nearly gave up again but with encouragement somehow manoeuvred out of position and did it. Not a pretty sight. The others had done the highball Lexi Arête 6B+ and as a sitter starting on right (topo says on left but unlikely at given 7A grade). Managed to despatch the exciting arete and sitter quickly. Nice end to the trip.


Contemplated a return trip to Malham on Friday but it would have been complicated logistically to then go on to Northumberland and didn’t want to dig myself into a hole in run up to Red River trip. So another year of not doing the Oak. Fair to say I was unlucky with 3 successive colds in the Spring and then rubbish conditions this autumn.
Off to the Red on Wednesday for 3 weeks. No doubt Malham and grit will be mint while away.

Yossarian

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#9 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 09:30:39 am
M
T - Drove to Peak with daughter at crack of dawn. Plantation. Warmed up on around the lone boulder, Sibylla then did some stuff she’d tried in the summer. I tried Glass Hour - didn’t get very far. Then Help the Young - had got quite a lot further on this years ago, but really struggled. Was trying to do it from standing, which probably didn’t help. Went for a look at Crescent Arete - up and down a few times, still shits me up. Sat at the bottom in a grump whilst a very loud Dutchman in orange trousers whooped his way up over my pad. Called it a day.
W - Burbage South. Did Pick, Pock, Puck etc. Latter took a lot of goes - I really struggle with stepping up on a very bent leg. Should prob do some pistol squats to remedy this, but anyway. Spent about 90 minutes trying the Sheep. Major problems getting RF to stay in place and so struggled to get LF into a helpful position. Other chap I was trying it with was still there some hours later, having got up to near the top but still not finished it. I think did Blind Crack, but couldn’t do either Armoured Cartwheel or Tiger. A better day, but still a spanking.
T - Drizzle at Burbage, so went for a bit walk around the valley rather than planned routes day. Then decided to stop at the Tor on the way home. Spotted Ted working Devolution when we arrived. I’d not been since the summer off 95, straight after a-levels. Sibylla found herself a project around the start of SHIB, and was totally syked. I did Boot Boys start which I was quite chuffed with as I’d woken up feeling like I’d been run over by a bus. Had a good wander - should’ve tried some of the other easier things really. Sibylla was v keen for a return visit. Lots of syke. Drove back to Sussex.
F - Tried to catch up on work but ended up watching every single Tor related video on YouTube and Vimeo
S - Wall. Great board session. Fingers feeling a bit weird so decided to skip planned campusing. Then fun times on new comp wall set. Had intended to finish with some AeroCap or foot-on campus but not enough time.
S - First fingerboard session in a while. Couple of joints didn’t want to crimp at all, so did some 2-3 finger stuff. Then weighted pull-ups to +28kg, etc.

Peak trip almost a mirror of our recent Font trip - get extremely syked, arrive a bit knackered, find things tough, wallow in self-pity, have amazing time right before trip home. Sibylla said that next time she wants to do grit routes and lime bouldering which I think it a pretty good plan. Depending on conditions, hopefully we can get back up 2-3 times before Xmas. I’m keen to try some harder lime stuff as it’ll obvs be useful for Project 8A in spring 2020. In the meantime, still trying to get my weight down to around 80kg (currently hovering around 86kg, which is progress), and also v keen to tick some 7b-7c sport in the next month or so...

cheque

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#10 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 09:36:52 am
Off to the Red on Wednesday for 3 weeks. No doubt Malham and grit will be mint while away.

 :boohoo: I'll take your place if you want to stay here on the off chance.  :lol:

tomtom

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#11 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 09:41:01 am
Peak trip almost a mirror of our recent Font trip - get extremely syked, arrive a bit knackered, find things tough, wallow in self-pity, have amazing time right before trip home.

Sounds like a normal session to me :) all squeezed into 90-120 min

tommytwotone

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#12 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 09:42:30 am
In operation rehab now...


Mon: Sports massage in effort to remedy shoulder knack. Wasn't really prepared for quite how painful it would be!
Tues + Weds: Feeling steamrollered / lunchtime stretching and (p)rehab
Thurs: Big Depot after work - active rest session, 10 x autobelay routes up to 6b+. Did jump on the bouldering at the end - was pretty cooked but got a (probably a bit soft) V5ish purple done second try.

galpinos

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#13 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 09:59:51 am
LTGs: F7C, E5, F8a
Winter Goals: Multiple F7Bs, a 7B+, get down to 80kg
Currently 85kg

M –
T – Bouldering at the Depot - 30degree board and "problems". As per last week till can't link the board project but nice to be able to link a few moves together repeatedly. Tired a couple of other peoples problems too and felt good on them.
W –
T –  Bouldering at the Depot - Fun session. Turned up a bit late and climbed with Helmut and Ed. Got stuck into yellows that are not my forte (big moves on roofs) but made some progress. Later went for the glory ticks and got Easy Yellow 1 second go (should have flashed it) and failed on the last move of Easy Yellow 2 on each of my three goes
F –
S –
S – Bouldering at the Depot - Another fun session. Got Easy Yellow 2 first go, made progress on other yellows I'd tried and did the two new purples (one flash, one went with ease once I used a toe hook instead of throwing and failing to hold the swing).

Fell like I'm making progress but need to keep up the fingerboarding and actually get to the crag!

shark

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#14 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 10:10:45 am
Off to the Red on Wednesday for 3 weeks. No doubt Malham and grit will be mint while away.

 :boohoo: I'll take your place if you want to stay here on the off chance.  :lol:

It was an attempt to stay off the list of hated Power Club members abroad on envious trips. Guess I’ll only make it worse if I complain

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#15 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 10:17:14 am
If it helps console you about having to leave the country, the red is significantly better than Malham and indescribably better than the grit

shark

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#16 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 10:28:06 am
I’m homesick before I’ve even left  :blink:

Hopefully that will clear up when I see what’s on offer

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#17 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 01:09:20 pm
Great effort on Klems bulge Tom, cool problem that! We were going to go to sheep pens yesterday but decided against it in favor of less good, more polished venues for some reason  :slap:

Sun - Off to North Wales with the AMC old guard. After doing a lap of the pass with no luck on spaces, we decided on a gentle warm up in RAC (for some reason). This 'gentle warm up' lead me on to a brutal 7B+ (which is attributed to Higginson in the guide, but Nick Dixon has since told me is actually one of his from '89, which he graded english 7a) called On One. After a bit of work I managed to not do it, though I did get very close with some horrendous shouldery crucifix pressing and locking, falling off reaching round the small corner to a pocket. One to come back to. I was also validated by the guys in V12 saying it's savage and seldom repeated. Went round the corner to try a crimpy 7A called Estafano, which I flashed, quickly followed by Matts ascent for his first 7A in Wales  :beer2:

After this we heard rumor of a space in the pass so we decided to jump in the car and join the group, who were (sickeningly) on the roadside block trying eliminates. I decided to use this time, and the sea of mats, to do Roadside Basic (7A+) which was surprisingly nice, if very sharp. The natural extension avoiding the ramp into pocket wall was next, so I pulled on this and lost my way transitioning into the start of pocket wall, annoyingly. A few goes later I ripped off one of the crozzles at the start of the main face and ripped up my nail bed  :sick: which had the expected effect on my motivation for the problem, so I ran around roadside swearing for a while, taped my finger back together, and went off to try something more kind on the fingers. Inexplicably I settled on 'The Sting' (7B/7C+, depending on various matters out of your control) which has the most razor sharp, minging crimps on it. I heard that if you are tall you can wack a heel out left and make it 7B, if not you are left facing the original version at 7C+ ish. I could not find the right body position for the heel, so opted for the original, gaining the small razor edge with the left and yarding to the lip. Slapped the lip a couple of times but got scared for my skin and left it as another DNF, sadly.

Aching and bleeding, we retired to Petes for a partially deserved sausage, egg and chips. Enjoyable day all in all, and great conditions, but too many DNFs to be entirely satisfied!

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#18 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 02:00:11 pm
Rehab Diaries Week Sixty-two

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (6/27 remain), onsight HVS by end of 2019.

M- Gym. Bike. Third week of fitness-building (razz it on bike at 85-90RPM, increase the level once a minute 'til failure) Managed 13 full minutes twice, another minute on top of last week.  :strongbench:

T- Not as tired after bike as before. Went on walk around Burbage with camera.

W- Rest. Discovered that I've regained 2cm of the 7 I lost post-accident. Now 5'8"!  :dance1:

T- Seem to have some sort of trapped nerve thing in my neck/ shoulder area- agony when moving head in a certain way but improved by massage. Quick walk to Higgar.

F- Foundry. Volume session with the TRS5000TM. Was in two minds on whether to go as my neck still hurt a bit  but one warmup route did it a world of good. Did nine routes, all in the furnace up to 6b succesfully and a few attempts at 6b+ unsuccesfully before I inevitably ditched the weight belt and tried a 6c+ up the centre with a few other climbers. Had to shout a few times which is my indication of whether I've been trying hard or not.

S- Rest.

S- Girlfriend-belay and weather meant that I needed to come up with a venue that was quick-drying, sheltered from westerly wind and had a nice safe HVS to try and onsight, so went to Hobson Moor Quarry. Urban crag boxes fully ticked as there was a dog off it's lead, people top-roping, wedd-smoking and a drone at various points  :lol:. Took a new(ly-resoled) pair of shoes which I think was a good tactic as my current grit shoes are nicely soft and a bit rubbish on the quarried stuff.

DId a VS finger crack called Crew's route to warm up which went OK once I trusted my gear and figured out the top then got on Parker's Eliminate (HVS), another finger crack through an overlap. This was immediately harder than anything on Crew's but I felt great and really enjoyed fighting into the crux section. Mid way through this I found myself running out of gas trying to work out how to progress from two not-that-great chest-height finger edges and a small foothold with my left foot at an awkward, not-load-bearing-enough height. Much gasping and swearing was involved and I slumped onto the gear that was level with my face. As soon as I was on the rope I realised that my left foot had been on a ~6cm ledge and that by rocking up onto it I would have been in a hands-off rest.  ::) Carried on to the top, dropped the rope and led the thing five minutes later, finding it easy.

So, missed out on ticking my "onsight HVS again" goal by a few seconds of stress-induced tunnel vision but I can't get angry about that sort of stuff these days. I reckon I climbed really well on it (we're talking about an HVS 5a so not exactly cutting edge  :look: but it is a thin trad route with lots of fiddling in gear from small holds) and didn't feel physically hampered by things like wide bridging or getting out of breath after hard moves, both of which have been problems until very recently. Doing an HVS that's totally new to me second go is still progress and I think the manner in which I blew it will prevent me from ever missing such an obvious escape option when "in extremis" ever again!

The back/ neck pain I've been experiencing again recently is worrying but I seem to have located the cause of the neck/ shoulder thing at least- twice in the preceding week (Saturday and Tuesday) I'd carried a camera & telephoto lens around on a monopod over my shoulder, Dick Whittington-style, and it appears that this is not something I can do now I'm one of those people who has a bad back.  :'( It also seems that the small camera backpack that I got as a less-painful alternative to the shoulder strap style last August is now really bad at aggravating my back, possibly because it's size and shape puts all the weight in a specific area. Still learning these parameters really.

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#19 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 06:23:06 pm
Spent about 90 minutes trying the Sheep.

speaking as someone who is a bit heavier than he used to be, weight makes a big difference to how hard The Sheep feels - that barndoory balance thing punishes extra kilos

plus, it's hard

36chambers

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#20 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 06:48:41 pm
Nice to bump into you Shark :wave:

M: Light full body workout
T: Indoors. Another session puntering around mindlessly. "Limit bouldering".
W:
T: Impromptu trip to Northumberland. Hepburn. Climbed Preparation H which has been on the dream list for a while. Great experience figuring out the top one inch at a time and then barely doing it when it went.
F: Kyloe Out. Got completely shutdown on a 5+ and 6A, but did Prime Time SS and the moves on Northern Territory that didn't require a kneepad.
S: Kyloe In. Took a while to warm into Yorkshireman Sit, but topped it from two moves in and then dropped getting properly established into the high RH sidepull plenty of times from the start. Very surprised my left shoulder held up for so long. Good session.
S: Shaftoe. Climbed Purely Belter and a few other overgraded 7s. Had a look at Sloppy Ploppin SS, but didn't get too far. Can't decided if the foothold has gone or I was just too exhausted. Probably the latter.

Great trip to the County, feel absolutely f**ked now. Will probably rest till the weekend. 

Nibile

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#21 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 07:11:41 pm
Power Club

Mon - PE high + 2 kg, 15/30 x10 easy. PE low 30/30 x7, less easy. Weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, rings.
Thu - PE low 30/30 x10.
Fri - boxing bag.
Sat - weights, pull ups.
Sun - weights.

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#22 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 28, 2019, 08:39:37 pm
T: Apartment Gym. 10 mins bike, 10 mins elliptical, squats up to 130lb X5

T: Apartment Gym. 10 mins bike, 10 mins elliptical, squats up to 140lb X5. A bit sore from Tues

F: 20 mins core workout at home

S: 2.1 mile walk round Washington Park in Denver

More phys this week to try to start to get back in shape...

Yossarian

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#23 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 29, 2019, 10:42:19 am
Spent about 90 minutes trying the Sheep.

speaking as someone who is a bit heavier than he used to be, weight makes a big difference to how hard The Sheep feels - that barndoory balance thing punishes extra kilos

plus, it's hard

I watched your video of Glass Hour before we headed up - you made it look v easy. Ditto with the Sheep having watched that too. I did better on my last trip (in the summer) I think because I’d had fun doing some routes first. I think that’s what I need, together with trying to forget about grades and trying loads of easier things...

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#24 Re: Power Club 503 21st - 27th October
October 29, 2019, 11:15:01 am
Spent about 90 minutes trying the Sheep.

speaking as someone who is a bit heavier than he used to be, weight makes a big difference to how hard The Sheep feels - that barndoory balance thing punishes extra kilos

plus, it's hard

Busted.... this is just the first seed being planted for a Burgbage South hustle isnt it? ;)

Playing the long game huh?

Perched on Burbage South edge, the Lagerstarfish spots his quarry. Down below amongst the gently rounded amenable boulders of the valley - a group of London based climbers arrive - replete with (clean) brightly coloured clothes and bouldering mats. Soundlessly, the Lagerstarfish drops from his perch and slinks through the brown bracken to his favourite haunt - the Sheep boulder. Announcing his arrival with a casual 'eh up' he begins his routine with a series of warm up excuses "still some dew on the rocks", "these are new shoes not very comfy", "I've not climbed for ages" - luring his prey into a false sense of security. Innocuously he determines via the gentle pitter patter or warm up talk where his prey are from and prepares for his hustle. The Lagerstafish starts by huffing and puffing up some gentle 4's and 5's... before retiring to his faded S7 pad to look and prod the toes of his rock boots. The prey start trying to ascend the Sheep - Lagers bides his time. "tried a jam?", "Oooh, its easier when its cold". He waits further - building the frustration. Then he pounces - ambling up to the boulder, he glides effortlessly up - a blur of climbing efficency and style. Then at the top - with no eye contact he utters "not bad today", gathers his belongings and moves on.

Later that day - back on his perch, the Lagerstarfish contemplates his days haul - and plans his next days hunting at the lonely boulder Plantation. 

 

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