If everyone was weighted down to a certain (fairly high) BMI wouldn't it be expected that %bodyfat of competition climbers would become more like that of athletes in sports where low %bodyfat provided no advantage (eg swimming I guess)? That's the aim isn't it?
Swimming actually has a big problem with disordered eating.I think it is a bigger problem in youth swimming squads than youth climbing squads.
I suppose that emphasises that eating disorders can be induced/exacerbated by competitive sport even if it provides no performance advantage. Sobering.
Could they mandate that athletes need to take an accurate body fat percentage measurement at a registered clinic, say within 2 weeks of the competition?
There is no unique tool globally which works easily,' Dr Schöffl argues. 'At present, IOC Medical Commission experts recommend using BMI, which will change in the future to body fat ultrasound measurements. Presently it is a valid screening tool, since nothing else works across five continents and different societies so easily.'To enable more thorough assessments, Dr Schöffl and the commission recommended using BMI - and setting higher thresholds - as a filter of sorts to help identify at-risk athletes, before suggesting that they undergo a series of extensive medical tests including blood tests, body fat measurement, bone density checks, hormone level assessments and psychological screening.A triage system would prevent 'critical' athletes from competing and refer them to immediate medical care, while others just below the threshold would be placed in an 'observation' category involving further monitoring.
Don't be silly. Of course we're better solving it here on UKB.I reckon all males should be normalised to 78kg. It woukd make things MUUUCH fairer*.*I.e.would neutralise the advantages of all you wee crimp waifs
Again I say: just do what the doctors have recommended FFS
in swimming there have apparently been arguments against weighing and monitoring because that in itself can foster an unhealthy preoccupation and anxiety
I've been working in the field of mental health for years, and I've met people who were professional athletes as adolescents who have gone on to have debilitating problems as a result of being dropped after injury, which I believe in some instances led to their untimely death.If anyone wants to come and try and fix things, there are plenty of job opportunities available on the NHS jobs website, feel free to apply. I'm not sure the topic will seem quite as funny after spending 12 hours a day holding people for feeds whilst they scream about how you're feeding them too much
Now Alex Megos has an interview up on his youtube channel. Haven't listened to all of it yet, but the previous one was informative (and shocking!) and this one is in English. RED-S discussion stars around 13 minutes.
Quote from: Muenchener on August 11, 2023, 05:57:43 pmNow Alex Megos has an interview up on his youtube channel. Haven't listened to all of it yet, but the previous one was informative (and shocking!) and this one is in English. RED-S discussion stars around 13 minutes.Good interview, and pretty damming of the inactivity of the IFSC.
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