The desire for perfection based on a sense of self that’s ‘held’ by others is a common theme in restrictive eating disorders.
In this sense Salazar, Nike and society are one in the same. Under the illusion of free will the ‘athlete’ embraces their approach supported by the crowds desire to see performance and therefore experience themselves in this individual. Honnold and free solo is a good example of this in climbing, a bewildered man acting on motivations beyond his control for difficult to fully articulate reasons, held aloft by a community and idolised in this way. We all experienced a bit of what it was like to be him in the cinema. Some level of insight into this can offer a sense of freedom and opportunity to be more ‘yourself’. It’s clear many ‘great’ performances and endeavours have been undertaken in this way, smashey and nicey for example. I’d hazard that in the end the more driven and owned by the ‘other’ real person or abstraction (money, grades and it’s symbolism) the results are inevitably problematic for some if not all the people involved. Perfectionism exists because others make it so. This is a paradox in restrictive eating disorders and many other things, the society / government which is working so hard to ‘cure’ them is the very thing creating them e.g the education system
What happened Alex?*seemed like a reasonable thread to me all sides getting along, apart from that ged bloke seeing his arse about mental health / eating disorders.
As a consequence of the non-action of the IFSC I resign with immediate effect from my voluntary position in the IFSC Medical Commission.Hereby I am drawing the same consequence as our MedCom president. We share the opinion that as medical doctors we can no longer accept the non-action of the IFSC concerning the RED-S problems of our athletes.I have been a #MedCom member since the inauguration of the IFSC in 2009. During that time frame we achieved many goals for the well-being of our athletes. However, the current politics with regards to RED-S cannot be accepted. We have worked for more than 10 years on the topic. We have collected numerous data, have measured BMI/MI at every WorldCup last year and have developed very profound plans how to detect and help athletes with such problems. We have spent many hours in meetings and on the desk establishing a new and better system of monitoring and decision making. As a consequence, we now have the most profound data on this matter of all sport disciplines. We have pointed out the problem and possible solutions to the sports director and board continuously and repeatedly. However, the only acknowledgement we have received has consisted of defamation and discouragement. In short, the IFSC may not be willing at all to undertake further action regarding this important health issue of its athletes and is acitvely delaying and slowing down any decisions that could lead to much needed action.As medical doctors we cannot accept this any longer.Sport climbing has a RED-S problem.Possible solutions to detect, evaluate and help critical athletes were developed through the Medical Commission.These solutions have been and are being ignored. No further action is taken by the IFSC.For the wellbeeing of our athletes and the development of this sport, I cannot take any responsibility on this matter and am forced to resign.Many thanks to my long-time colleagues and friends in the Medical Commission for their work and efforts, especially to our president Dr.Eugen Burtscher.I hope this step may help the cause and our athletes but I know it won‘t.Volker Schöffl – climbing doctor
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