Hopeless on Nazgul. Tired from Monday still... Moose - your beta might work for me...
Quote from: tomtom on June 10, 2019, 07:03:47 amHopeless on Nazgul. Tired from Monday still... Moose - your beta might work for me... ... even a stopped clock is right twice a day...
Have to say I normally try to get in before Gollum to avoid highlighting the complete lack of effort / application on my part compared to his entries!
Quote from: tommytwotone on June 10, 2019, 09:50:32 amHave to say I normally try to get in before Gollum to avoid highlighting the complete lack of effort / application on my part compared to his entries!All I can say is wait until I retire from work in September and Mrs B needs me out of the house all day.
S - Malham in the afternoon. First go up more of a recruitment go in the end; didn't get fingers right in third undercut. Hours rest, watched James Ibb smash through the boulder with a massive effort and had another go. Made it through the boulder for the first time and recovered in the kneebars for 6 minutes. Section to the bird hole went incredibly well which was a big plus; the hard move felt steady. Recovered in sharp jugs at bird hole for a few minutes and gunned to the undercut rest. Felt good and still quite relaxed but was definitely pumped by this stage. Felt recovered quite quickly after a few minutes and decided to crack on. Did hard heel move easily and right hand felt good on first small crimp. Hit first left hand crimp and had no power left. Closed the crimp with a big effort but all of a sudden had nothing left and was unable to move right hand onto the next crimp, which is the set up for the headwall crux move to another small crimp. Was off before I could process it, which left me with the feeling that I didn't try; but I had nothing left on the crimp so I know I did! Pulled back on and went to the top. Bittersweet; perhaps a missed opportunity not to engage turbo on the headwall and scream my way up it, but I'd have taken it at the start of the day. Great to get through the boulder for the first time and if I keep turning up I can definitely do it.Another breakthrough week; very close! Back on Wednesday after work for a few redpoints. If no luck then will have to wait for a few weeks as I'm away on holiday. Not ideal timing but I'm on schedule for where I wanted to be at the start of the season and will be nice to get some sun. On another plus side, yesterdays RP effort has to be a new personal best for me as its probably 8b+ to the point I fell off.
LTG - 7C.....BM 2000 bottom crimps 10 seconds 0kg10kg15kg25kg30kg25kg (8 seconds)25kg (9 seconds)20kg
Quote from: monkoffunk on June 10, 2019, 04:46:26 pmLTG - 7C.....BM 2000 bottom crimps 10 seconds 0kg10kg15kg25kg30kg25kg (8 seconds)25kg (9 seconds)20kgThat’s well strong enough for 7C
Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit. We each climbed with a (small) rucksack on all day but we didn’t do it in big mountaineering boots or anything like that. I’d hoped we’d blast through it in really good time but this wasn’t ever really going to happen as my partner is far more concerned with things like sitting down and eating sandwiches between routes, placing gear at sensible/ overly cautious intervals, recoiling ropes for inexplicable reasons in the car park before you even start etc. than that sort of thing.
S- Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit.
Quote from: cheque on June 11, 2019, 12:55:40 pmS- Big Cwm Idwal Day- linked up Hope, Lazarus, The Arête and Central Arête for the classic 11-pitch bonanza from the lake to the summit. Awesome, been wanting to do this and Main Wall -> Gambit Climb - >Reades Route but manage to keep never getting round to them