[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - BM front, mid, back2. 10" x12. Yoke complex.
Tue - rest.
Wed - static/dynamic pull ups, overhead walk, snatch pulls.
Thu - weights, abs.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - speed ball warm up, yoke complex, farmer's walk.

[cheque]

I used to find soloing on grit pretty poor preparation for leading safe grit routes Yoss- that soloing "got to get it right" mindset is pretty much the opposite of the "here we go, I might fall off this move but I'm trying it anyway" leading one and I found it difficult to transfer between the two. Since I've had to quit soloing I've become a quicker leader as I stick to well-protected routes, get the gear in, think "that's safe now" and just do the move.

Also, sounds like you were third day on by the time you tried the harder routes with a rope? Could well have been a different story if you'd had a rest day inbetween.

[Yossarian]

I was going to say that your Fern Crack experience sounded familiar - the sort of thing that indoor bouldering and 6-7 sport routes don’t prepare you for!

I think you’re probably right. I was being super cautious, not really wanting to commit, etc, whereas the best approach on those Exodus Wall routes is probably exactly the opposite. The two “mates” didn’t really help either - I had to tell them to shut up and concentrate when they were belaying a couple of times, which didn’t help with proceedings. I seem to climb much better with random hookup partners these days.

[SA Chris]

best approach on those Exodus Wall

Best approach is movement (of Jah People).

[Fiend]

Also that wall is pretty brutal for the grade / height and conditions on Saturday were mostly awful.

[tommytwotone]

Goal - knock off that final Font 7a


Half term week in Anglesey for me.


M: Moelfre - scoped out the beach, the ice cream provisions (best we found on the island IMO) and finally the bouldering. Looked a bit niche but ideal for the time-starved man in need of a quick hit. Mental note made to head there when chance came.


Pleasant evening when we got back - did some fingerboarding using my portable device.


T: Llanberis - Llyn Padarn train, mooch round village, picnic lunch, then off to RAC Boulders en famille. Knew this was the best opportunity weather and family-wise to climb, but both the kids suddenly got really psyched for bouldering, so I spent more time running round with them than I did climbing.


Did the obvious stuff on the big boulder (hanging flake etc). Had a lash at Marsh Dyno at the end of the session. Tickled top a few times but feeling a bit hot, rushed and tired out by then.


Rest of week - nowt. Weather deteriorated into humid clag, and never got a chance to shoot out after the kids' bedtimes. Bit of a shame as I could have had a good go at Moelfre and it was c.5 mins from our accommodation.

[andy popp]

T-F: Flight cancelled back from Philly for second consecutive week on Thurs.

Do you have to go to Philly often? I have plenty of recommendations for eating, drinking, things to do etc.

Yeah Mon - Thurs every week for the foreseeable future, hit me up with your suggestions!

Um, I'm just wondering why your company moved you to Denver? I don't really have climbing recommendations, though there's very good bouldering at Haycock Mountain, about an hour outside the city.

Where do you stay?

[Coops_13]

T-F: Flight cancelled back from Philly for second consecutive week on Thurs.

Do you have to go to Philly often? I have plenty of recommendations for eating, drinking, things to do etc.

Yeah Mon - Thurs every week for the foreseeable future, hit me up with your suggestions!

Um, I'm just wondering why your company moved you to Denver? I don't really have climbing recommendations, though there's very good bouldering at Haycock Mountain, about an hour outside the city.

Where do you stay?

It's one of our office locations, I work where the client is so just happens to be Philly at the moment - stay Downtown. Send me a DM