[shark]

Yes Shark, hopefully you won’t be trying to reach that high point again for the next three years. 

Got to the high point just now again 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

[tommytwotone]

Nice one Cheque - Obscenity's great isn't it? Proper grit tussle!


Goal: that one last new (to me) Font 7a, by end of year.


M: Nowt.
T: "Fat Burn' class at new gym. First class thing I've done in probably a couple of years. I have lost a lot of fitness in the last couple of years.
W: Nowt.
T: HIIT class at lunchtime - very tough but felt good afterwards
F: Work do in the evening for new company. Free bar. Late finish.
S: Nowt. Recovery.
S: Couple of hours running round soft play with the little lad.


Getting motivated to keep ticking over at the gym. Not a bad start so going to keep that up.

[user deactivated]

Yes Shark, hopefully you won’t be trying to reach that high point again for the next three years. 

Got to the high point just now again 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

Hang on, you’re uploading updates to YouTube from the Tor?

[36chambers]

Yes Shark, hopefully you won’t be trying to reach that high point again for the next three years. 

Got to the high point just now again 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

Hang on, you’re uploading updates to YouTube from the Tor?

This is unacceptable, I want a live stream.

[Steve R]

Aims: uninjured, 70kg, all the 8's

M - MV wall. Board, trying/working projects and set some easier problems with view to linking them together for some resi type training soonish. 
T- wall again. Good session - felt like a bit a of a break through recovery time-wise re. previous 2 days.
W -rest
T- wall pm.  Late & rushed session on board.  Fluffed warm up, not the best session but hopefully just about the right side of useful.
F- rest (strange nerve type leg pain when walking down stairs so no light running this week.)
S- wall afternoon.  good long warm up and felt best on board so far re. comeback 2k19 mk1.  ticked a project.
S- Ingleby Incline bouldering.  Average cons but did and tried some great problems on lovely rock.  Years since last visit, rock qual better than I remember and great setting - keen to go up again soon and interested to try the amazing looking Circle my Demise.  (Anyone done/know much about this?  Might be imagining it but I thought there was a vid of Mike doing the FA which I can't find..  Looks like probably worth checking on a rope?)

Finger; same. Weight; same.  must stretch more.

[36chambers]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

That grunt at 1:08, is that a "shut up I'm trying to climb" grunt?

[tomtom]

Yes Shark, hopefully you won’t be trying to reach that high point again for the next three years. 

Got to the high point just now again 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

Hang on, you’re uploading updates to YouTube from the Tor?

PDNP have installed a femtocell at the Tor especially.

All the foreign news media vans parked on the road were upsetting the locals.

[shark]

10 mins ago

[shark]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

That grunt at 1:08, is that a "shut up I'm trying to climb" grunt?

Correct. One of my coping strategies

[monkoffunk]

STG - More volume: Climb 10 routes 7a-7c+ by end June (2/10)
Strength/roof bouldering training (whoops)
Go to font - Complete as much from ever growing Font tick list as can.
Maintain weight ~74kg
MTG -
Portland Font 7A+/B from unfinished list, autumn
LTG - 7C

M - Lulworth Cove after wedding weekend. With family. Went to have a look at the soloing. Sea not too bad but not perfect. Only climber there and couldn’t get a decent spot for the water so elected not to do anything hard, just a lap on Maypole. Really good fun though! Pretty keen to get back soon.

Little bit of supplementary stuff at home after.

T - Finger board, Anderson repeaters, about 35 mins. Felt quite tired and unmotivated, but got much better as went on. Ended up trying quite hard.

W - Rest.

T - Normal puntery service resumed on Portland. High heat and humidity. Shredded my skin for first time in ages, right before Font trip, did not get up anything. Poisoning myself at weekend and resultant lethargy unhelpful contribution. Still, did some enjoyable moves and links, learnt more about couple of routes.

F - New comp problems at red spider. Skin continues to disintegrate. I guess the Cuttings is all smooth crimps and no sharp crozzle. Lots of dynamic stuff on the comp problems did not help. Serves me right for straying from the wood. Will have to intensify the skin care regime.

S - Long day at work. Rest.

S - Long day at work. Overall busy weekend. Did a little in evening but nothing like what planned. Chalk that one up I guess.

Not exactly the Font prep I had planned. I guess my focus on Fighting Torque restricted that time somewhat. I think I’m still in a reasonable position to to some of the stuff I want to do though! Bit lax on diet and stuff since wedding last weekend, been mostly vegan though. Weight ok though, 73kg today miraculously. Something I also normally need to work at! Looking forward to Font.

[highrepute]

Yes Shark, hopefully you won’t be trying to reach that high point again for the next three years. 

Got to the high point just now again 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

I fell off the end a couple of times and swapped an easier sequence with big moves for a slightly harder one that I could be more controlled on. Worth experimenting with some other sequences at the end there?

[teestub]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

That grunt at 1:08, is that a "shut up I'm trying to climb" grunt?

Correct. One of my coping strategies

Did you have your hands over your ears at the start?

[petejh]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=WZyxzdiZkaA

This is great performance art.
'The futility of life'

[cheque]

Nice one Cheque - Obscenity's great isn't it? Proper grit tussle!

Cheers Tommy, yeah mega route. Can’t believe I hadn’t done it before- the same thing I say about all the routes on my list basically.

In some ways I feel like I’m really lucky to have the opportunity to be back at a point where these routes are close to my limit again. 

[Murph]

Murph- I realise I was hanging around in Outside at the same time as you and your family yesterday. 

Oh hello! I have no idea what you look like - was that you trying on trousers? Do say hello if you see me again.

Your ***sub-hvs list - does it include Chee Tor Girdle? I have told a mate I will climb white horses with him but I’m a bit scared. The guy in outside said I may as well practice on some traversey climbs in the peak and that was one of the ones he suggested. It looks amazing.

[joeisidle]

M - Shit day at work 1
T -  Shit day at work 2, then headed indoors in the evening but felt drained and left after an hour
W - Lots of driving, physio, light weights and theraband in evening
T - Stoke AW - played on new circuits which were good, did a lot of mid grade varied volume, felt like I had a decent workout but didn't board (must do better this week)
F -  Light weights, physio and theraband in evening
S - Anston; did Last Stand (or at least a version of it) and some easier vert wall stuff, snatched defeat from the jaws of victory on Beretta and had a play on Apprentice Prow. Good day, felt worked after.
S - Light weights and theraband in the morning, Grit circuit in PM at Hen Cloud/ the Roaches. Warm up on a nice slabby bulge in Hen Cloud woods, fail on Starlight and the Storm (again), redo a 6c slabby arete at the spring boulders then repeatedly fall off a pebbly wall that's only graded 6a, which eats a shoe for good measure. Want to climb more but run out of light. Despite this have a nice time, looking forward to going back to the 6a (not sure why though).

[shark]

Did you have your hands over your ears at the start?

Yes. Get distracted too easily. Just had a go climbing with earplugs. Possible game changer. Stone are you listening? I SAID STONE...

[shark]

I fell off the end a couple of times and swapped an easier sequence with big moves for a slightly harder one that I could be more controlled on. Worth experimenting with some other sequences at the end there?

Cheers James. With Steve Mac and he’s just been advocating the same as he thinks my way is too low%. Bit hard to unlearn and relearn but may have to.

[nai]

Your ***sub-hvs list - does it include Chee Tor Girdle? I have told a mate I will climb white horses with him but I’m a bit scared. The guy in outside said I may as well practice on some traversey climbs in the peak and that was one of the ones he suggested. It looks amazing.

Good idea, nothing can prepare for that last pitch though, when you look back and see your ropes zig zagging across the zawn, yowsers.

[SA Chris]

M - 98.5 k lunchtime run. OK pace, and leg felt OK
T -  Nowt
W - Accepted new job! Agreed start date 5th August, so finish here 14th, 7 weeks off! 3 before school holidays, 1 with kids at home, 2 weeks away in Fuerteventura, then a week at home before new job. Decided I needed to leave work early, so took half day and headed for coast. Conditions were 50/50 but we decided to hit the coast, as tides were perfect. Went to Richie Shore and it was sunny, with rock just going into shade, so tidal section was bone dry. Stuart and I blasted our way though the problems, he was climbing well getting most of them first or second go. We both took a couple of attempts at the scary top to Arab Spring. but got there. After this we set to trying the remaining obvious line, the low traverse. After refining the beta I managed it first with an intense shouldery gaston drop and some footwork, and slapped my way up the easiest escape route.. Stuart worked out some moves off intermediates, and got it straight after. Prob in the 6C/7A range, need concensus. By now it was greasing up as the rock cooled and you could bizzarely see your breath in the shade. So moved to a more exposed spot, repeated 2 classic probs, and then out of nowhere the wind picked up, fog came in and game over.
T - Lunchtime yoga. Shoulder - much puffing
F - nothing. Well,a bit of football with kids in garden!
S - walk about in town, sussing out commuting options for new job. Running workshop in afternoon, knackering.
S - Morning  - building IKEA wardrobe doors, knackering, walk with kids in the country. Glorious day. More building in evening.

[tomtom]

Good news n the job Chris

[SA Chris]

Yep, be a good change. 12 years in 1 place is a long time!

[Coops_13]

M: Hotel Gym. 25 mins of chest workout before I was too bored

S: Awaken Gym. Went to gf's gymnastics style gym for a couple of classes. Hip mobility and strengthening and then Gymnastics Foundations which involved a lot of wrist aching planche type movements

Trying to rest and rehab the finger so I can climb something this coming Memorial Day weekend...

[shark]

Yep, be a good change. 12 years in 1 place is a long time!

How you going to make most of your 7 weeks off?

[tomtom]

Moose - you got mail.