FWIW - A while back I did their assessment and they listed 103% of BW as normal for v11, and 107% of BW was standard for v12. So I'd assume BW only on the 20mm testing edge is around v10ish.
Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...
Thanks Sasquatch it was these sort of numbers I had in mind so was surprised to hear 100%=8B benchmark strength.
For all of these correlations what we’ve seen time and again is that it’s damn hard to have a decent explanatory variable that is to be consistent for a tall/short/skinny climber on a knee bar/slab/crimp one move wonder/endurance test.
The better correlation for half crimp vs open I had always thought had more to do with it being a better proxy for a lot of other things. Meaning that if someone will go to the effort of training that pretension properly then it makes it more likely that they’ve taken the whole training thing seriously and done their elastic band exercises too.
The dependent variable -grade Y- is almost entirely without meaning. So much else goes into getting the grade including whether the person is willing to drive out to blackwell dale in the cold and wet umpteen times to dry holds by the road or whether they jet off to find some holiday grades in rocklands/switzerland/wherever. Or whether they give up or never look in the first place or just go around having a nice time doing other stuff.
FWIW, bodyweight on middle BM fairly easily last time I checked and could not climb 6A+ yesterday.