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Power Club 479 6th May -12th May (Read 3508 times)

Murph

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FWIW - A while back I did their assessment and they listed 103% of BW as normal for v11, and 107% of BW was standard for v12. So I'd assume BW only on the 20mm testing edge is around v10ish.

Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...

Thanks Sasquatch it was these sort of numbers I had in mind so was surprised to hear 100%=8B benchmark strength.

For all of these correlations what weve seen time and again is that its damn hard to have a decent explanatory variable that is to be consistent for a tall/short/skinny climber on a knee bar/slab/crimp one move wonder/endurance test.

The better correlation for half crimp vs open I had always thought had more to do with it being a better proxy for a lot of other things. Meaning that if someone will go to the effort of training that pretension properly then it makes it more likely that theyve taken the whole training thing seriously and done their elastic band exercises too.

The dependent variable -grade Y- is almost entirely without meaning. So much else goes into getting the grade including whether the person is willing to drive out to blackwell dale in the cold and wet umpteen times to dry holds by the road or whether they jet off to find some holiday grades in rocklands/switzerland/wherever. Or whether they give up or never look in the first place or just go around having a nice time doing other stuff.

FWIW, bodyweight on middle BM fairly easily last time I checked and could not climb 6A+ yesterday.

nai

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Remember what Ron said, folk:

"Nothing gives you confidence like technique".

So stop stressing/pondering about how much you can hang vs your grade, learn some skillz and go forth.

Dan Cheetham

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Ian? Ian? Where arst thou? Ian?

tim palmer

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All of this strength correlation business is surely all utter nonsense in the manner in which it has been sold.

However I do appreciate the lattice take on bmi i.e. having one in the lower end of normal is good

tomtom

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All of this strength correlation business is surely all utter nonsense in the manner in which it has been sold.

Exactly.

Next someone will be saying that being tall is an advantage!!!!

Duma

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... or whether they jet off to find some holiday grades in Rocklands...

Not in the new guide...


although Pinotage has gone up to 7C

Murph

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Dont understand what you mean Tim. Being strong for the bodyweight or having a low bodyweight for the strength are both basically the same thing.

That Korean bloke that recently appeared on legendary feats, doing the ILV hangs off BM smalls...he has a BMI of <17. Nibile proved that he wasnt that strong, just mostly light. (Do legendary feats dream of fat blokes pulling tractors?)

Are you saying that getting strong is over rated but being light isnt?

I understand how either in isolation is insufficient to climb an 8 but not sure why you like one bit but not the other.

tim palmer

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No all I meant is that having a normal bmi (rather than an extremely low one) is good, regardless of climbing

tim palmer

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I was basically just trying to say something nice about the whole endeavour.

measles23

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including whether the person is willing to drive out to blackwell dale in the cold and wet umpteen times to dry holds by the road

What kind of dick would do that??  :whistle:

Nibile

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All of this strength correlation business is surely all utter nonsense in the manner in which it has been sold.
Is it the manner in which it has been sold or the manner in which people want to see it?
I'll say it again and again: it's not predictive, it's the other way around, but, let's be honest with ourselves, everyone loves to know that they have "8b fingers", myself included and foremost (I want 9a fingers though).
Then putting in the time to climb one is another matter as the same people know well.
Evribudy wanna be a budybuilder, but don't nobody wanna lift heavy ass weights.

Nibile

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That Korean bloke that recently appeared on legendary feats, doing the ILV hangs off BM smalls...he has a BMI of <17. Nibile proved that he wasnt that strong, just mostly light.
Hey I get what you mean, but I didn't want to prove a point, I just got psyched and wanted to try.

Murph

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Im really glad that you did Nibs. Meant to wad you for it at the time. A lot of people talk about whether x or y is impressive in absolute or relative terms but few are willing to put it to the test. I salute you for it!

tim palmer

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Is it the manner in which it has been sold or the manner in which people want to see it?
.......
Evribudy wanna be a budybuilder, but don't nobody wanna lift heavy ass weights.

I thnk it is a bit of both, obviously people can pay money for what ever they want but by selling this idea aren't lattice saying that it works, ie  we can make you "8b strong" and it will mean something?

I think the problem is everyone is lifting these heavy ass weights, and it is a peanut in comparison to the effort required to get good at climbing

jwi

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If it was easy to be as strong as Nibile and as light as Jongwon at the same time, I would climb very difficult routes.


tim palmer

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If it was easy to be as strong as Nibile and as light as Jongwon at the same time, I would climb very difficult routes.
I am sure you would but not as hard as jongwon as he has also developed the requisite skill to do what he does

Nibile

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Whoever thinks to be able to climb a certain grade because he or she matched that score on a Lattice Edge, is delusional.

Nibile

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Im really glad that you did Nibs. Meant to wad you for it at the time. A lot of people talk about whether x or y is impressive in absolute or relative terms but few are willing to put it to the test. I salute you for it!
Hey cheers beast!

abarro81

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I think the problem is everyone is lifting these heavy ass weights, and it is a peanut in comparison to the effort required to get good at climbing

I can assure you that I at least am lifting no heavy ass weights.. with my fingers or anything else

Murph

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By “everyone” I presumed Tim meant punters like me Alex, rather than a “somebody” like you.

The equivalent Ronnie Coleman quote for climbing would be something like “everribudy wanna be a wad but ain’t nobody wanna learn how to climb”. Or something.
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 03:48:08 pm by Murph »