it was just an amazing climb and it really puts you through the wringer. If you tense up or don't believe in the footholds then it spits you off. So you have to approach it in a calm and almost contemplative state of mind. But then you reach for that top pebble and start to bone it and you go tense, so it then becomes a race against time to get established on better footholds and get the good hold just above the pebble. In Dan's video he pops for the break but you either have to be Dan-strong to do this, or maybe it was just slightly sub-optimal conditions talking. Anyway, it just kept throwing stuff at me and you have to try and take it all in your stride and not start to panic or rush or you'll be off in a moment. Proper YYFY stuff getting to the top.
... the demands of onsight trad over sport and bouldering aren’t just limited to the mental side and standard climbing training doesn’t really prepare you for them.Thinking of the days when men were men and it was standard among dedicated climbers to operate at what we now consider really high levels of trad onsighting (you’ll know better than me as you were actually there!) it seems the biggest factor was that they just did trad every time they went out (so enforced specificity) and training was meat ‘n’ potatoes high-volume strength work.
F- Awesome Walls. First session with the Trad Rack Simulator 4000TM aka a pre-loved diver’s weightbelt that I got from Ebay for £20 and looks like it was salvaged from the Mariana Trench.
Nai - well impressed with anyone who gets ovine. Proper 7B, that. Don’t suppose you recorded it?
The left shoulder is not very mobile - this is about where it starts hurting. A long way from touching fingers. But the right is a total shocker. I had to be helped into this position and it looks like all sorts of weirdness in the scapular area...
decided to clip old bolt instead of higher new one, which removes 3 moves from the sequence on steep ground which helps a lot. Later fell on this rusty bolt so happy its good enough!
I'd consider adding weights to my harness but this might be pushing my luck on the autobelay. Having one land on you from 10m would sting a bit.
Could you replace it?Going there with Paul with his stiff brush and secateurs made me realise what poor crag caretakers we generally are.
Then there's the thorny issue of what to do with Sassenach/Central Wall, each of which is being spoilt by the other. Do you add bolts to the end of Sassenach (thus making it a proper sport route but effectively making Central Wall a clip-up on the crux)? You might as well bolt the start of Central Wall then
I guess that was you and your son that I wandered past at Murky Rib?
Quote from: Will Hunt on April 15, 2019, 10:22:27 amThen there's the thorny issue of what to do with Sassenach/Central Wall, each of which is being spoilt by the other. Do you add bolts to the end of Sassenach (thus making it a proper sport route but effectively making Central Wall a clip-up on the crux)? You might as well bolt the start of Central Wall then Personal view - definitely not. There’s too much retrobolting of old trad routes going on at these sort of venues. You lose what is/was a memorable E3 in return for a forgettable F6b (ish). It might make doing Sassenach a bit more of a faff, but Central Wall was there long before and if you can do Sassenach then the end of Central Wall shouldn’t be an issue.