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IFSC 2019 (Read 71352 times)

GraemeA

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#50 Re: IFSC 2019
April 14, 2019, 06:22:44 pm
Nice by Shauna. 2nd.

Duma

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#51 Re: IFSC 2019
April 14, 2019, 08:46:29 pm
Not watched yet, good to see Jernej back on top. Good result for Shauna, still reckon flashes should count ahead of count back though.

Andy F

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#52 Re: IFSC 2019
April 14, 2019, 09:37:04 pm
Takes a year out through injury.
3rd then 2nd on come back comps.
Form is temporary...

fatneck

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#53 Re: IFSC 2019
April 15, 2019, 10:07:15 am
Superb flash of the final problem by Jernej deserved the win for me! Good comp although would have been nice to see some harder problems particularly for the women.

monkoffunk

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#54 Re: IFSC 2019
April 15, 2019, 10:40:20 am
Think they were concerned after how the semis were?

bigironhorse

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#55 Re: IFSC 2019
April 15, 2019, 12:13:46 pm
Yeah not a bad comp overall but would have been nice to see some harder problems in the final.

joel182

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#56 Re: IFSC 2019
April 15, 2019, 12:24:59 pm
Think they were concerned after how the semis were?

Presumably they tweaked the boulders after the semis - no tops and three zones was enough to make finals, then three flashes and all four zones wasn't even enough for a podium spot.  :oops:

crzylgs

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#57 Re: IFSC 2019
April 15, 2019, 12:29:51 pm
Think they were concerned after how the semis were?

Presumably they tweaked the boulders after the semis - no tops and three zones was enough to make finals, then three flashes and all four zones wasn't even enough for a podium spot.  :oops:

I don't mind hard problems its a very tough balancing act for the setters. However, on this occasion I think they probably got the semis every so slightly too hard... Then slightly over-reacted and finals ended up a bit too easy.

Durbs

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#58 Re: IFSC 2019
April 16, 2019, 01:24:47 pm
Out of curiosity, given the time frames - how do they make them easier; move the holds closer, switch out to easier holds, combination thereof?

The women's was a bit pants, obviously too easy, but also W3 and W4 were pretty much the same route on different angles...

Men's was good though, always fun watching Jernej climb and good mix of problems.

Nice co-commentary too, particular form Gregor in the mens.


GraemeA

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#59 Re: IFSC 2019
April 16, 2019, 02:35:18 pm
Out of curiosity, given the time frames - how do they make them easier; move the holds closer, switch out to easier holds, combination thereof?

Normally they have a couple of options already prepared eg swap hold 3 for one slightly bigger/smaller or turn hold 3 a few degrees. believe or not they do actually plan stuff. Well sometimes!

joel182

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#60 Re: IFSC 2019
April 16, 2019, 03:53:42 pm
Been wasting my day looking at some more speed results today.

Miho Nonaka set a time of 8.574 s at the Asian Championships in November 2018, way ahead of the competition, it seems. Only other sub 9-second time I've seen is Sol Sa, against Miho at the Asian Champs, with 8.929.

Put some of the results into a spreadsheet here - criteria for listing was having a name that I recognised as finishing in the top 20 of an international lead/boulder comp, sure there's lots of mistakes and people missed

SA Chris

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#61 Re: IFSC 2019
April 16, 2019, 04:44:55 pm
I know comp walls are identical worldwide, but surely conditions must differ? I know they are bucket holds, but a few degrees cooler ambient temperature would make a difference to how well you perform?

jwi

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#62 Re: IFSC 2019
April 16, 2019, 05:26:31 pm
Put some of the results into a spreadsheet here - criteria for listing was having a name that I recognised as finishing in the top 20 of an international lead/boulder comp, sure there's lots of mistakes and people missed

Excellent! I would wad you if the link pointed to something else than http://here ;)

joel182

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#63 Re: IFSC 2019
April 16, 2019, 05:29:49 pm
Put some of the results into a spreadsheet here - criteria for listing was having a name that I recognised as finishing in the top 20 of an international lead/boulder comp, sure there's lots of mistakes and people missed

Excellent! I would wad you if the link pointed to something else than http://here ;)

 :oops:

This should actually work.

SA Chris

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#64 Re: IFSC 2019
April 17, 2019, 10:18:44 am
I know comp walls are identical worldwide, but surely conditions must differ? I know they are bucket holds, but a few degrees cooler ambient temperature would make a difference to how well you perform?

By comp walls I meant speed comp walls btw.

joel182

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#65 Re: IFSC 2019
April 17, 2019, 01:09:48 pm
Here's a spreadsheet for the men - same arbitrary critera of having a name that I recognised as placing in the top 20 at an international lead or boulder comp, no doubt lots of worthy people missing and errors.

Lots of people setting PBs in Moscow, at least according to the spreadsheet.


GraemeA

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#66 Re: IFSC 2019
April 17, 2019, 02:03:01 pm
Good Statto stuff!

Fiend

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#67 Re: IFSC 2019
April 24, 2019, 10:43:24 am
Agree with all comments about Moscow. Some cool climbing but problem balance b0rked - for obvious reasons. I do wish Jernej would stop celebrating until he matched!

Nice to have competitors co-commentating again.

xelaxela

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#68 Re: IFSC 2019
April 24, 2019, 11:43:57 am
I have to say I much prefer the insights when they have competitors co-commentating

joel182

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#69 Re: IFSC 2019
April 26, 2019, 01:27:38 pm
Code: [Select]
61 Shiraishi Ashima USA 12.34
48 Phillips Emily GBR 10.898
40 Aguado Valenti ARG 10.363
45 Gibert Fanny FRA 10.74
33 Klingler Petra SUI 9.848
30 Noguchi Akiyo JPN 9.694
29 Mackenzie Oceania AUS 9.642
27 Garnbret Janja SLO 9.463
26 SA Sol KOR 9.409

Code: [Select]
37 McColl Sean CAN 7.111
34 Bosi William GBR 7.079
32 Pan YuFei CHN 6.978
31 Valencia Danny ECU 6.942
30 Narasaki Meichi JPN 6.926
27 Hojer Jan GER 6.763
26 Cornu Manuel FRA 6.678
24 Fujii Kokoro JPN 6.62

Some more arbitrarily selected results from this weeks speed comp. As far as I can tell that's a new British record for Bosi and a new German record for Hojer. Kokoro's 6.62 was a PB - I wonder what the Japanese record is?

Big PBs too for Garnbret, Noguchi and Gibert.

In the proper speed climbing, YiLong Song set a new World Record at 7.101.

GraemeA

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#70 Re: IFSC 2019
April 26, 2019, 03:32:38 pm
I think Emily alsp set a British record.

joel182

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#71 Re: IFSC 2019
April 26, 2019, 03:59:38 pm
I think Emily alsp set a British record.

Ace - looking forward to seeing the records keep falling over the next year

Fiend

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#72 Re: IFSC 2019
April 29, 2019, 10:03:02 pm
Quote from t'bird:

"Alexey is so grumpy he should be a tennis player".

 ;)

Durbs

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#73 Re: IFSC 2019
May 01, 2019, 02:53:55 pm
Quality round I thought...

Good split in final scores, all problems topped - M4 & W4 great problems, in fact all of them were good, and a nice mix of styles too.

Commentary (and co-commentators) generally on point, creative camera work from the locals, perhaps a few too many mid-attempt close-ups, but otherwise all top-drawer.

Fancy rendered mappings of the projects were fun, but possibly didn't add much as I don't think the commentators had control of them?

Janja obviously on form to dominate, though looked a little off-form this round, but from a statistics POV I was wondering how her and Anna Stohr line up for number of IFSC wins (as I think Anna is/was the record holder for this?)

From a quick count of IFSC athlete pages, I make it (excluding Youth, bouldering only):
Anna - 29  2006 - 2015 (over 9 season)
Janja - 7, 2017 - current (over 2 seasons and 3 rounds)
This does include non-World Cup events






Fiend

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#74 Re: IFSC 2019
May 01, 2019, 07:14:34 pm
It was a good round indeed. A few sweaty palm moments. Women's problems were great, good variety and nice to see both minging crimps and fridge hugging in addition to the usual parkour - it was notable how slow their first 3 problems were and the tentative controlled climbing made great viewing. I can't remember so much about the mens but it was a good battle. Boscoe even got in his "once per round wise-crack" on point.... "I'm now 2.32 times wiser"  :clap2:

 

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