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IFSC 2019 (Read 71359 times)

joel182

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#25 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 06:03:49 pm
For those who watch a lot/follow the comps, is it common for those who qualify near the top often fail to get through the semis?


Not too common, e.g. Akiyo Noguchi is quite often #1 or thereabouts after qualifying.


I would be inclined to disagree - taking a quick look through the results for the men from the 2018 boulder competitions it seems like about 50% of the time the climber wins their qualification group they fail to make the final.

Random aside: no male climber won all three rounds of a single competition in 2018, and the only climber to win both semis and finals in the same comp was Gabriele Moroni in Hachioji.

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#26 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 06:06:06 pm
you know if you watch youtube on an android phone you can double tap the right of the screen and it jumps forwards multiples of 10 seconds? Probably other devices too.

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#27 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 06:07:31 pm
Completely agree. Thought the problems were great but when the men's finished it seemed like an anticlimax to start all over again. The crowd in the arena create more energy when both are going at the same time.

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#28 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 06:36:06 pm
...popular sports seem to be aiming for around the 2 hour mark as the sweet spot ...

... one of comp climbing's biggest strengths is having both male and female athletes gaining near equal levels of exposure during the coverage...

Agree with both of these points.

Other live events: big name gigs, musicals, and most popular operas are usually - and not coincidentally - 2-3 hours long.

No-one has asked the crucial question though: what grade would the crack get? Ondra made it look about 5.10.

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#29 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 07:51:12 pm
Great comp. Split finals format sucks ass.

Exactly. Basically unwatchable live now, there's just so much dead time. I really can't see why joint finals shouldn't work, it should lend itself brilliantly to split screen - after all climbing is a vertical sport that we're watching in a landscape format. Just halve the TV down the middle and bob's your uncle.

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#30 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 08:00:12 pm
HVS 5b of course.

As much as I love jamming cracks and Ondra, it was a bit farcical. The rest of the comp was generally great. Glad to have it back!!

arast

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#31 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 08:59:55 pm
What do other people think of the commentary?
Not sure what it is but something about it really grates on me..

Fiend

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#32 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 09:16:20 pm
I'm less glad to have that back TBH.

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#33 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 09:48:50 am
What do other people think of the commentary?
Not sure what it is but something about it really grates on me..

I never have the sound on.

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#34 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 10:25:57 am
Ah the commentary... It's getting better, or perhaps I'm getting immune, but it doesn't grate as much as it used to.

For some reason, I always preferred Daniel Webb, who was a commentator first, and got into a bit of climbing through the IFSC circuit. He could fill dead air well, obviously seemed to know and chat to the competitors so could give you interesting insights into their routines.

The current guys I like... they're just...dunno. Climbers first, commentators second?
It might come down to the fact they need to decide who they're speaking to; existing climbers who want the minutiae of each problem and attempt analysed, or new-to-the-sport who need constantly reminding what a zone is and how the scoring works...

Equally it comes down to personal taste; I like Liam Lonsdale as he's enthusiastic and obviously a massive fan (also, did you know he's mates with Alex Megos?!  ;) ), some people find him too shouty.

A non-qualifying semi-finalist makes a great co-commentator too quite often.

Didn't Partridge co-commentate once? I remember that being both hilarious and insightful.

It ties into the running time as well though; bearing in mind they've already talked through the semis, then a 4-hour live stream... That's a lot of time to talk through!


I guess if budgets stretch to it, guys and girls should be run as separate events,on different days. I think the split in viewers would be equal, or as near as makes no difference.
Or bring back split-screen. When it worked, it was great - and the streams have moved up a notch in terms of production that I'd hope crucial moments wouldn't be missed.
As it is, I'm not ever going to watch a stream live, and even on catch-up, it'll be skipped through.

abarro81

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#35 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 10:53:18 am
I found the commentary fine, and although I initially didn't like the split finals format I don't mid it now. The fact that less is going on makes it easier to have on in the background whilst stretching, and with a longer finals you get more evening worth (if you can avoid the result on the web). Means I'm less likely to bother buying Netflix too

andy popp

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#36 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 11:53:37 am
No-one has asked the crucial question though: what grade would the crack get? Ondra made it look about 5.10.

From the horse's mouth: "it was 5.11 crack except for the last move which was more 5.12 and required some pulling. It was a good handjam but not the easiest one to place."

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#37 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 11:56:35 am
you know if you watch youtube on an android phone you can double tap the right of the screen and it jumps forwards multiples of 10 seconds? Probably other devices too.

You can use the right and left arrow keys on a PC too.

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#38 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 12:37:37 pm
... whereas full stop and comma go forward and back single frames: useful if you want to see exactly what Janja and Akiyo are doing with that swinging leg thing when they catch dynos.

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#39 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 01:55:50 pm
Shame about Gabriele Moroni not making the Italian team as he only competes in Bouldering and does anyone know why Miho Nonaka isn't at the first couple of rounds this season?

Personally I prefer the split format. I used to hate missing bits. I understand that 4 hours is a long time if watched in one go, but I tend to watch a bit at a time after the live stream has ended.

I also prefer having more content, as unlike  sports such as Football, F1, Cricket etc. the World Cup season doesnt have that many rounds and there can sometimes be a long time between rounds.

joel182

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#40 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 02:03:12 pm
does anyone know why Miho Nonaka isn't at the first couple of rounds this season?

Miho had a (second) shoulder injury, so decided not to compete in the first few comps of the season

Quote from: miho nonaka
when I was trying on some volumes, need a slight balance type of things, my foot suddenly slipped off and I felt something wrong with my left shoulder right away.
After some time has passed, my pain was increasing and I couldn’t stay in the right frame of mind. Besides, I injured my right shoulder 6 month previous from that and I was still in the process of regaining confidence in myself and regaining my shoulder strength back. But bad things tend to happen one after another...
I can’t even move my arm right now because there is still inflammation. I don’t know how long it takes to recover. I really wanted to take part in the first two World Cups(Meiringen/Moscow)...
I’m shocked and so sad about it.

Quote from: miho nonaka
Unfortunately, I will not be competing at the three World Cups that are taking place in Meiringen, Moscow and Chongqing this year(not yet clear at the moment). I need more time to get my body and shoulder strength back...!

abarro81

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#41 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 02:45:03 pm
Just spotted this on 8a:
"After the final, the IFSC results did show that 16 year old Oceanina Mackenzie was #4. Then the french team made a protest saying she did an incorrect start at problem three, which was approved, meaning she lost her zone and dropped to #6.

If Oceanina would have stopped trying after she got her zone, she would have been given at least one more try after the competition.

One problem with such late calls is that in theory, a person like Oceanina could have topped the boulder and possibly advanced to the podium. Judges make mistake and if such situation will happen in Tokyo in could mean an anticlimax. Would if saying that any protest must be handed in within five minutes and then automatically an aster-ix (*) would be shown next to the result.
"

This does seem kinda lame.. strikes me that really it would make sense for comps to run like football matches - if you spot an error after the game is done it's too late, and referee/judge decisions during the time of the incident are what matter.

That said, it would be better for setters not to set those lame starts where you tap your foot and then take it off straight away, they're crap anyway.

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#42 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 02:55:25 pm
That said, it would be better for setters not to set those lame starts where you tap your foot and then take it off straight away, they're crap anyway.

Yep, poor setting which will hopefully be eliminated by the time the Olympics come about.

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#43 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 03:29:46 pm
Anyone else think Ondra was tempted to try and crimp the top sign on M3?  :-\

https://youtu.be/OY0QFlCIpFI?t=5353

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#44 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 04:09:05 pm
That said, it would be better for setters not to set those lame starts where you tap your foot and then take it off straight away, they're crap anyway.

Yep, poor setting which will hopefully be eliminated by the time the Olympics come about.

I agree, however "those lame starts" seem to be part of the 'circus style' of problems we have now. Does anyone know when the last time there was a sit start in the world cup was?

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#45 Re: IFSC 2019
April 10, 2019, 09:53:32 pm
That said, it would be better for setters not to set those lame starts where you tap your foot and then take it off straight away, they're crap anyway.

Yep, poor setting which will hopefully be eliminated by the time the Olympics come about.

I agree, however "those lame starts" seem to be part of the 'circus style' of problems we have now. Does anyone know when the last time there was a sit start in the world cup was?

sit starts are impossible to enforce with the current rules. you can put starting holds low and everyone would make it a sort of crouching start, unless sitting is easier

I don't agree that the lame-starts have anything to do with a particular problem style, to me it has everything to do with starting rules. The "four points of contact" thing is a comp-specific oddity and does not really relate well to how a competent climber actually moves on a wall. Making it a "stable position" only makes things worse. It is a lame contrienvance by design.
It would be interesting to go through the history of the starting rules, but i wouldn't be surprised that they have evolved towards the current status "against" the routesetter's creativity, limiting their options, and especially in order to avoid situations such as jumping starts (as in l'aérodynamite @Bas Cuvier), run and jumps, etc.

joel182

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#46 Re: IFSC 2019
April 12, 2019, 02:20:00 pm
Some arbitrarily selected results from the first speed world cup of the year:

Code: [Select]
36 Hojer Jan GER 7.016
40 McColl Sean CAN 7.170
41 Schubert Jakob AUT 7.211
42 Fujii Kokoro JPN 7.247
43 Rubtsov Aleksey RUS 7.276
49 Sugimoto Rei JPN 7.502
53 Kruder Jernej SLO 7.711
54 Bosi William GBR 7.725
56 Ridal William GBR 7.736
58 Chon Jongwon KOR 7.870

Code: [Select]
33 Yip Alannah CAN 9.509
34 Klingler Petra SUI 9.539
37 Condie Kyra USA 9.902
40 Garnbret Janja SLO 10.050
42 Ito Futaba JPN 10.102
43 Pilz Jessica AUT 10.116
52 Phillips Emily GBR 10.970
58 Coxsey Shauna GBR 11.274
61 Gibert Fanny FRA 11.656

SA Chris

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#47 Re: IFSC 2019
April 12, 2019, 02:27:47 pm
It would be interesting to go through the history of the starting rules, but i wouldn't be surprised that they have evolved towards the current status "against" the routesetter's creativity, limiting their options, and especially in order to avoid situations such as jumping starts (as in l'aérodynamite @Bas Cuvier), run and jumps, etc.

Yep, would be interesting. I think it's partially to ensure everyone know where the "start line" is, partially to ensure reach is a lesser advantage starting from the ground, and also for safety to ensure people aren't charging at the wall and leaping about in an uncontrolled manner (for the first move at least!)

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#48 Re: IFSC 2019
April 12, 2019, 06:55:12 pm
Some arbitrarily selected results from the first speed world cup of the year:

You missed Mawem Mickael somewhere in the 6.3 range.

Quite handy on the boulders too; could be one to watch.

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#49 Re: IFSC 2019
April 12, 2019, 07:20:55 pm
And YuFei Pan 6.9, mentioned by Graeme above as a lead climber - and made semis in Meringen bouldering

 

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