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IFSC 2019 (Read 71363 times)

Duma

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IFSC 2019
April 05, 2019, 10:54:00 am
So, qualifiers underway in Meringen. Guess it'll be an interesting season with the Olympics coming up, plenty of route climbers in the boulder WCs (Romain Desgranges climbing today) and vice versa.

Looks like men's qualifiers too easy? Megos may miss out despite 5 tops. Nathan Phillips crushing for brits, Ondra looking good, Schubert struggling.

gme

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#1 Re: IFSC 2019
April 05, 2019, 11:02:55 am
Saying Nathan is crushing is a bit of an understatement he flashed all five problems. The only person to do so in a full strength World Cup.

GraemeA

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#2 Re: IFSC 2019
April 05, 2019, 03:03:29 pm
With only 20 places and so many strong climbers there are always going to be big names missing out so i think it is better to highlight the unexpected qualifiers.
The 3 that are a surprise to me are YuFei Pan (lead climber), Stefano Ghisolfi (lead climber) and Tim Reusser.
Anze might be a shock for some I was at the Studio Bloc Masters the other week and he beat a strong field there.

Women's start in 30 minutes.

Duma

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#3 Re: IFSC 2019
April 05, 2019, 03:29:10 pm
Hey  Graeme, wasn't meaning to denigrate anyone - agree there'll always be some "big" names not qualifying. Yeah Ghisolfini was a shock - though he'd not climbed when I posted. My knowledge of the lead climbers is sadly lacking...

GraemeA

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#4 Re: IFSC 2019
April 05, 2019, 09:54:17 pm
Don't worry Duma, I didn't think that you wee denigrating anyone.

But good to see 3 through to the semi finals. Nathan and Shauna we kind of expect but great job from Emily.

Hopefully the stream will be good tomorrow as well as the setting and streaming :-)

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#5 Re: IFSC 2019
April 05, 2019, 11:16:50 pm
Don't worry Duma, I didn't think that you wee denigrating anyone.

But good to see 3 through to the semi finals. Nathan and Shauna we kind of expect but great job from Emily.

Hopefully the stream will be good tomorrow as well as the setting and streaming :-)

How do you “Wee denigrate”?

Sounds kinky.


Or is it a Scotish term for calling someone unusually short and ungrateful?

Duma

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#6 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 07:34:32 am
Ha! Thanks, cheered me up at work on a Sat morning

Duma

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#7 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 09:30:49 am
Livestream from 10:00


Duma

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#8 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 01:36:35 pm
Enjoyed that, Ondra looks in great shape.

always impressed by Akiyo's continuing brilliance. Thought Shauna looked a bit rusty but through comfortably enough in the end - impressive one hand catch on W2.

Shame Emily and Nathan looked a bit over awed after their brilliant qualifying results.#

Finals at 6


monkoffunk

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#9 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 06:34:29 pm
As a non comp climber I’m not a huge fan every boulder problem at the wall being a weird awkward dyno, and it does seem the trend comes from something designed to be visually impressive.
 But the ‘trick start’ on problem one there just again didn’t really appeal to me to watch either. I don’t know, just doesn’t seem like a skill I’m interested it.

Somebody's Fool

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#10 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 07:09:29 pm
Do you think it's a product of setters operating at a lower level than the competitors?

I imagine if you're a 8A boulderer setting for these guys, to set something basic you run quite a high risk of it being too easy or too hard. To get good separation these tricks are a more reliable way of getting it.

monkoffunk

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#11 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 07:44:38 pm
Ha, I liked the last one!

Duma

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#12 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 09:27:44 pm
Janja looks different class.

monkoffunk

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#13 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 09:49:50 pm
Yeah very strong.

Danny

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#14 Re: IFSC 2019
April 06, 2019, 10:32:36 pm
Ondra pathing the crack was some craic.

Duma

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#15 Re: IFSC 2019
April 07, 2019, 09:49:13 am
Ondra pathing the crack was some craic.

Cracked me up ;-)

Yeah was ace. Impressed how he's adapted to the style, though you could see on the first two boulders the Japanese still looked more comfortable IMO

I don't really have an issue with the parkour stuff, think Graeme has gone through the reasons it's gone that way before on here.
Thought the women's problems were a good mix, W3 in particular.
 

monkoffunk

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#16 Re: IFSC 2019
April 07, 2019, 10:10:37 am
There was actually pretty decent variety in the end!

Yossarian

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#17 Re: IFSC 2019
April 08, 2019, 08:39:19 am
I’ve never bothered watching comps before this. For a number of reasons, but mainly a lack of curiosity. Anyway, 7-year-old daughter (who is just starting comps) and I watched the finals video yesterday and were totally mesmerised. When she appeared this morning she was chatting away about technique (toe-hooks in particular) and Fanny Gibert’s amazing skills. Definitely tuning in for the next round...

monkoffunk

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#18 Re: IFSC 2019
April 08, 2019, 09:07:34 am
I only watched it because I was supposed to be prepping for a job interview but was equally hooked!

Durbs

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#19 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 02:07:58 pm
Technically - a great effort too. No glitches, streaming issues or other annoyances. On-screen graphics were also good.

Still not a fan of separate comps. The near 4-hour run time just means i end up skipping between attempts, which takes away a lot of the atmosphere, but I simply don't have 4 hours to dedicate to watching it in full, even in 2x 2-hour stints it's tricky to fit in.

Men's - Overall covered a broad range of styles, which is a good thing. Dynos, hand jam (lulz!), slabs... no obviously raw-power moves off minging crimps, but likely because they're all massively powerful.

Didn't like the start of M1 - run n' jump starts are sooooo 2016.

W3 was great, as was M...3? Always fun watching wads flail on a mantle.

Women's should be close this year; Janja is obviously on another level, but doesn't seem immune to over/under-thinking routes, or just mis-reading them. Akiyo continues to be amazing, Fanny continues her good run and Shauna looked great, especially given the extended time out.


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#20 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 02:16:10 pm
 Great comp. Split finals format sucks ass.

galpinos

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#21 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 02:20:04 pm
For those who watch a lot/follow the comps, is it common for those who qualify near the top often fail to get through the semis?

Coming out in the last 5 of 20 on the semis problems could be a disadvantage as the holds will be slightly chalkier/greasy but I've no idea if this is actually the case? Is it all so close in the qualifying that the difference in positions is actually a very fine margin?

SA Chris

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#22 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 02:24:25 pm
I do sometimes wonder if some people try too hard in the qualifiers, then crash in the semis. Guess it's part of the filtering out of the top players.

jwi

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#23 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 02:52:28 pm
For those who watch a lot/follow the comps, is it common for those who qualify near the top often fail to get through the semis?


Not too common, e.g. Akiyo Noguchi is quite often #1 or thereabouts after qualifying.

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#24 Re: IFSC 2019
April 09, 2019, 05:46:54 pm
Great comp. Split finals format sucks ass.

This 100%.

I used to watch quite a few of the finals however don't bother now with the split format. In fact i usually start watching and then get bored after half an hour or so as there is more standing about with inane commentary as the presenters try and do their best to fill the resting time than actual climbing. It was so much better when the men and women climbed at the same time as there was usually something going on to watch, granted occasionally an important moment would get missed however i am sure this would improve as the broadcasting gets more professional (possibly using a split screen format or replays to ensure that none of the important action is missed).

Further to the above 4 hours is just too long for me to commit to watching a sporting event. Surely they need to look at other mass market sports and the duration of the events, football 90min (+15 min half time), F1 2 hour max race limit, T20 cricket (approx 3 hours maximum), basketball 48min (plus time outs and breaks approx 2 hours). As we can see all these popular sports seem to be aiming for around the 2 hour mark as the sweet spot which would be approximately the length of the finals if they revert to running the male and female finals concurrently.

I understand that it could be argued that 2 hours is already the length of time of each individual final however I think one of comp climbing's biggest strengths is having both male and female athletes gaining near equal levels of exposure during the coverage, I can't think of any other mainstream sports where this is the case (tennis is possibly the closest however they still seem to place more emphasis on the men's game).

 

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