[tomtom]

Its felt like its been one of those weeks - unless you only wish to climb indoors

M: Work

Tu: Sacked off work at 12 and headed down to Anston. Great session - couple of other folk there that was good to meet (hello!) and for my sins decided to try BetaBlocker again (someone was trying FineBeta so it was easier with pads etc..). Now, for those who don't remember (and why would you - its essentially a dull tale) BetaBlocker is a bit of a nemesis for me. its given 7A - and many people describe it as "soft", "flashed it", "did it in a couple of go's" etc.. But for those with longer lower limbs it seems quite awkard - and as the 'easiest' 7 in that sector its given me some right trouble. Ending with me twisting my knee quite badly on it late last year, So thought I'd try it - and my 'usual' sequence felt clunky - so following the other climbers suggestion, instead of using lots of higher holds etc.. I got the lower diagonal slot with my LH, somethign to the right of it with RH, toe on the edge thats one of reservations hand holds out right from the big edge - and just did a big rock over catching the undercut (with thumb over the top). This felt possible - and subsequent attempts saw me get higher and higher (a close foot popping off moment included) until it went. Thank god. A minor YYFY - and it was good to do something in a more brutal way than I normally do.

Then went and pissed about on Alpha and worked out how I did the bottom part again..

We: Work - home - childcare as wife was out.

Thu: Day with the lad - and I ended up putting him to bed (a long procedure)

Fri: Ended up being another day of childcare as wife had to go to Doctors - she went out in the evening so as per We and Thurs. Knackered - in bed grumpy at 9:30.

Sa: I had a whole day pass! Except the weather was shite. Looking at the forecast I decided to brave an Anston visit (a schelp from Manchester - but I NEEDED to get out. It was fine - pads got wet in showers - but rock was good. A few folk there - maybe a Dozen at the most as some came and went. Good to see Stone and Dave too - and met a few others.

Tried Reservation > Beta Blocker - but the tennis elbow in my left arm was playing up after all the deep lock off and pulls from BetaBlocker on tuesday. Went back to Alpha (it was most out of the showers) and bottom part felt fine - and had a couple of decent plays on the bit from the shelf. But I hate those pockets. They are just so - uncomfortable for me and I get 4-5 attempts on them and then I just find it too painful. Move up to second RH pocket is crux for me - and my stopping point.

Stone was trying the Beretta extension - so I mooched over there and decided to give Beretta a decent go. I've tried this a few times - and always found it really awkward - and not got into the crimpy edges high right heel theme of the problem. But figured as its the only low 7 I've not done at that part (I think) I should give it a decent attempt. Took my time and spent probably 90 min (between chatting) leisurely working the moves. By the end had the start to nose in a 1-er and was just out of gas to make the move up the nose (that I'm not concerned about). So good progress.

Shark made an appearance (wave) - and dispensed some free career advice. I managed not to catch his lurgy.

Su: Ached.

Overall a good week. Its good getting back to Anston and finding I'm stronger (or climbing stronger - with more purpose or better applied ) than I was last year. Grit projects on hold due to the shite weather. Got Monday and Wednesday next week - then away for 8-10 days with work.

[Duma]

Goals: Uninjured, 70kg, 8A in UK, Rocklands in June.

M - TCA eve, max hangs, did benchmarking session but slightly down on last time (+32.5kg from +34kg in mid Jan) putting it down to night shifts at the weekend. Then bouldering, mostly trying a crimpy problem on the 35 from last weeks comp that I didn't manage. Some progress but still a way off. 40 PU, 30 SU, 10 VSit, 9 LR.

T - TCA eve, tried to boulder but still feeling nights. In the end did a bit of desultory pe, 2x pumpy 7b, 2x more cruxy 7b. 40 PU, 25 SU, 15 VSit.

W - UCR eve, old circuit board had been reset so did those to warm up, 1x6b, 2x6c, 1x 7a+. Then one arm hangs, BW on bigger BM2K slot. 6x7s on each hand, only failed badly on last ones. Pleased with how I've improved on these, but really should be on a smaller edge with assistance. 40 PU,  30 SU, 10 VSit.

T - 40 PU, 25 SU, 10 VSit, 5 LR.

F - TCA am, moonboard. Opened account on  Pure Wood LH and RH, concentrating on RH atm. Did all but one move (#3) and linked from start to there. Happy enough for first session. Did new whites (low 6's) after. 40 PU,  20 SU, 10 VSit, 10 LR.

S - TCA, unexpected free afternoon. Tried a bit of bouldering but still feeling Fridays session, so doubles on circuit board instead. 5 sets of 2x7b, 20s rest. Failed second time round on move twenty something on last two sets. 40 PU, 20 SU, 10 VSit, 10 LR.

S - 40 PU, 20 SU, 10 VSit 10 LR.

Av 70 kg.

OK week, disappointed with max hangs but pleased with one arm stuff, think the press ups might be helping with this. Added hanging leg raises to the morning core routine.

[shark]

11.1-3 Average 156.7 down 0.6lbs

M

T Malham with Paul, Nige and Cheque Oak dry Go1 Warm up on set up and throw positions and moves Go2. Felt sketchy on footholds at start pulled up to third bolt. Did throw move to horn short rest then horn to top despite feet slipping all over the shop. Came down and inspected shoes - toes had bagged out. Broke out new pair (7th of new model) Decided to change plan and work on links rather than from ground Go 3. Rewarmed up on Consenting and to get used to new pair of whites. Went from second bolt on Oak but lost conviction going for horn but could have got it Go 4. Angry. From second bolt again but this time got horn but fell going right going for sloper. Happy with that - it’s a key link and tIps sore Bonus Go 5. For some reason went back on a final burn. Was cold and tired and back was sore. Pulled up to 3rd bolt Unexpectedly did set up and throw straight off and carried on all way to top without much trauma. Another good sess for Nige - he’s up to the top traverse now

W

T

F Noon. Malham with Nige, Paul and Nick S.Much worse than expected. Oak soaking and not much dry. Rain blowing in, very cold and miserable. Not many options. Decided that going on Raindogs would be more productive than Bat Route crux. F&EE x3. 4 tie ins on Raindogs. First go bolt to bolt (low flake wet and generally a bit greasy). Second go in 3 sections. Third go again in 3 sections. Fourth go it got greasier so took 4 sections. Tied in again on F&EE to do laps but felt terrible and bailed. Gruelling day rewarded by catching a cold

S Sniffles. Walk round Anston with dogs. Eve Dragged out by Sonia to Cheese, wine, board games. Actually enjoyed it.

S Feeling crapper. Walk round Wyming Brook with daughter and dogs. Feeling really rubbish now. Can’t face fingerboarding

Good third session on Oak on Tuesday so it getting wet and getting ill is a setback

[monkoffunk]

STG - Climb Fighting Torque.
Weight ~75kg.
MTG - Plan Spring Font trip
LTG - 7C

M - Best session yet on FT. 5 redpoint attempts. Two of them matching high point, one slighting lower past undercuts. After that Sam figured out some slightly different beta using a tiny crimp I had discounted before. I reworked that section, doing crux several times various different ways (at some power cost I think). Discovered I could use the crimp to make crux much easier, pulling myself over to left. After that, two more redpoint attempts getting to new crux sequence. Both times, hand on final pinch, once almost sticking before foot popped.

T - Rest. Hip flexibility.

W - Red. Half an hour warm up one hour power on board. Felt strong. Night shift.

T - Red. 20 mins warm up, 20 mins comp problems. 4 sets on traversing circuit. Was aiming for ancap, but was just too long and easy so was probably more like aerocap. 60 moves getting pumped at the end but not close to failure. Hip stretches. Night shift.

F - post nights. Rest, rest, rest. And donating blood which I came quite close to cancelling but then thought that would be whack for the sake of redpointing a route. Priorities....

S - Rest. Hip stretches.

S - Rest.

Back on Fighting Torque tomorrow I hope. Feel very well rested and strong from an arms point of view, but actually been feeling physically quite tired walking around last couple of days. Combination of reasonably busy night shifts and blood loss I imagine. I reckon I’ll be good tomorrow though!

[Will Hunt]

That sounds like a very good session, Shark. I don't want to see any more second bolt to top. The second bolt is about shoulder height off the ground. If you do it second bolt to top it's a go that you could have done it wasted.

[shark]

The second bolt is about shoulder height off the ground.

Wow I knew you were tall - didn’t realise you were a 10 footer

[gollum]

 M - Solid run at lunchtime to blow out the cobwebs and get back into the flow of training. Evening session at Depot. On the 50 board work projects. Started on Zoo York replica easy version and made some progress particularly in the middle section. Went on to start working on LH version of a steady intro. Reasonable start with some links. Felt like really powerful moves for me and excellent training but didn’t manage the final move. Same sort of progress on RH but found first move much harder and kept pinging off it. A big thank you to Bradders for the very valuable beta.
Finished off with some footless bouldering which was good fun. Need to find a couple of problems on main walls for this exercise. Pleasing first day back.

T - Push day. Bench for 3 reps up to 90k off the safety bars and then doubles up to 92.5k for full reps. Followed this with shoulder press for four reps up to 45k. Slow progress but progress. Finished off with close grip floor press for 5 up to 65k, superset with dips. Lunchtime was treadmill 5k and some TRX Push and press ups.
Evening run with Mrs B, running in circles as on call. Finished off with Max Hangs for 96%. Solid enough although very strangely got cramp in my hamstring.

W - An interesting early morning Pull session. Started with deadlifts which I haven’t done for a couple of weeks. Doing singles, went to 150 but stopped while still feeling strong. Then a bit of shrugs and Roman Chair to maintain balance. On to OAP. RH solid with body weight for 4 and added weight up to 0plus 10k, failing at 12. LH managed a dodgy rep at body weight but 2 decent reps at -1.25kilos. Shoulder is definitely improving. Then did some pull-ups with weight up to plus 40k for 3 sets of 3. Finished with some shoulder activations, levers and a few barbell curls.
Steady 5k run at lunchtime.
Evening at the Depot and a bit of a mixed bag, but all good. Started with a bit of campusing to warm up and solid on 1-4-7 which is good to get established at. Then went onto do some Strength Intervals did three different 5-8 move sections of problems on the 50 degree board and was pretty solid. Then went on to do two sets of power triples with a minute rest between for two sets. Did three different Austrian Mock finishes and managed the two hardest for both sets but dropped the easiest on last set as was powered out. Took a rest and a brew and then flashed one of the new pink problems that I’d been challenged to flash when I’d arrived. Very much my style. Finished with 10 sets on circuit board of 1 minute on 2 minutes off. Felt like I’ve fitted a lot in to not very long but felt good.

T - solid Push morning. Bench got doubles up to 90k which felt very steady indeed with plenty left. Followed by triples on decline again up to 90k and then sets on incline. A bit of TRX work and a bit of shoulders.
Run at lunch again and really enjoying it at the moment.
Evening session at the Depot on the comp pinks. Happy enough with progress. Threw in a few reds once I was done as not had chance to get on them yet. Crack on.

F - Pull session. Pull-ups for volume to start followed by OAP up to BW on LH and plus 12 on RH. Then did 3x3 pull-ups with 40k which is about 97% of 2RM and finished upper body with a bit of shoulder activation. Last exercise was squats as I’ve dropped doing individual leg sessions in favour of doing squats once s week as part of another session and deads are often part of my pull day anyway. In the same way, I’ve started throwing in a bicep, triceps and deltoid session each once a week by way of accessory work.

S - Push day. Start with bench and solid for triples up to 90. Then do doubles on decline up to 95 with the final rep being a single at 100, which I’ve never done as a decline before. Bit of incline work at 15 degrees and 30 degrees to get the fibres firing. Going low to chest seems much less stressful for the shoulder. Bit of shoulder pressing up to 26k which is steady but 28 feels beyond me at the moment, keeping plugging away.
On call so treadmill running, 10k while listening to last weeks Sounds of the 80s and reliving my youth.
Afternoon, Max Hangs at 100% which feels tough but doable. Consider the Depot but decide to chill and relax a bit so can give it beans next week.

S - Pull day to finish off the week. Deadlift singles up to 160k matching regular and sumo for a change. Then on to OAP with same sort off effort as Thursday. LH iOS stronger when I concentrate on stability and ensuring that it doesn’t rotate with a couple of good reps along the way. Finish with 3 x 20 pull ups with the last set being dynamic nd bouncing y hands about a bit.

Overall a pleasing week that has hit the sweet spot in terms of effort, fun and reward.

[yetix]

M: gym session. Bench 3x5 60kg. Shoulder press 3x8 30kg. Fingercurls 3x20 40kg. Zottaman curls 3x12 12kg. Reverse wrist curls 3x12 7kg.
T: rest
W: recruitment FB in the morning. Cave in the afternoon. Got pulled over by the police on route. Repeated RA in terrible conditions and managed from the wobbly block to the triangle hold. Managed to do the moves on cave life over the arch but was v tired and the floodgates started to open!
T: rest
F: campussing, close to 1-4-7, managed 1-5-7 quite comfortably though, not sure if this is easier? Ended up having a marathon seasion - felt ruined after.
S: rest
S: BUK 55 board as didn't fancy chancing the cave again! Took a while to get reaquainted. Managed to send a project I'd been working on and repeat a few things.

Booked a trip to Rockland's in June so feeling psyched about this, need to figure out my ticklist now!

[tomtom]

Nearly went to cave on Sat - seems like Anston was the better option given your report Yetix.

[yetix]

I think cave was okay on Saturday (some ticking was done Saturday evening I believe), but on Saturday night it rained through the night so I didn't want to chance it after seepage ending my session earlier than expected (probably should have been better prepared for seepage more than anything really, as it could have been better managed)

[Murph]

Shark that sounds great. I am really rooting for you. Gollum that sounds exhausting. Fair play you sound psyched!

In contrast...

M-
T-
W-
T-works wasps (6b?) did a few but not many
F-
S-
S-works wasps did a fair few more

Weight 68.x. Not actively doing anything about it.

Not really sure where to take things at the minute. Back problems have been flaring up but I’m sort of using that as an excuse. I’ll tell you what, either I put in a good week doing all my shoulder and hamstring stretches or I quit clinging to the dream that someday I’ll climb 8A.

I hope everyone has a powerful week.

[jwi]

Tue 5 Mar
Bouldering in gym flashes + campusing (strength end)
Went surprisingly ok
Mostly flashes or 2-3 attempts on things.
Campus board, biggest rung (slopey, 1.5 phalanx):
2 x 3 x 30s simple laddering (1-2-3-...-15 then down until bell goes off); r = 60s, R=8min. Fell 2s before end of last set

Thur 7 Mar
Climbing outdoors Super Manjoc
with Alex & Ian
6c
8b+ (No war) Bolt to bolt
8b+ RP attempt. Fell 2 moves before glory jug. Hung ~30s, climbed to top
8b+ RP attempt. Fell 2 moves before glory jug.
8b+ RP attempt. Fell 3 moves before glory jug. Hung 1min. Climbed to top
Finished off trying to retro flash Bad Attitude (8a+), but fell on crux.
Deeply annoying not getting back to highpoint. First session I regressed during spring. The fingers always felt fresh, the arms gave up on me. Maybe because of fatigue from Tuesday’s campusing?

Fri 8 Mar
Hangboard
20 mm
-19 kg left 10s   -19 kg right 10s
-13 kg left 10s   -15 kg right 10s
-9 kg left 10s   -11kg right 10s      hard but with some seconds in reserve
-9 kg left 10s   -11kg right 10s      easy-ish on left, hard on right
-7 kg left 9.5s   -9kg right 8s      couldn’t hold position strict on right hand.
Likely personal best on left hand

Sun 10 Mar
Would have like to go to project, but weather forecast looked horrible. Decided to attempt on Tuesday instead.
Hangboard
20 mm
-9 kg left 7s   -10 kg right 7s      harder on right
-7 kg left 7s   -9 kg right 7s      1-2 s in reserve both hands
-7 kg left 7s   -8 kg right 7s      0-1 s in reserve
-7 kg left 6s   -8 kg right 5s      harder on right
Likely slightly weaker than Friday. Interesting, as I did no climbing on Saturday. About same weight so I don’t think weight can explain the difference.
Bouldering gym
Random bouldering for about 1h, then spend some time setting up a 13 move boulder on a 40deg wall
4 x 13 move; r = 3min

[nai]

Back problems have been flaring up but I’m sort of using that as an excuse. I’ll tell you what, either I put in a good week doing all my shoulder and hamstring stretches or I quit clinging to the dream that someday I’ll climb 8A.

Samish, I feel kind of on the verge of back problems but it doesn't materialise, possibly because I keep doing the leg stretches and core work or maybe I'm just storing it up for a big crash.  if I do skip a few days i start to feel it so try to be strict to do a circuit of each every other day.
Don't know if you're using hamstring stretches as a catchall term but targetting the Glutes, Hip flexors, quads & lower back will also help plus doing hip mobility stuff, e.g. leg circles, internal rotations, frogger.
Keep it up, 8A all the way.

[nai]

M - Anston - warm up extended into refreshing memory on BB then managed Reservation Blocker first attempt from the start.
Moved on to Alpha and managed the move to the shelf so that's the hard bit all worked. Surprised myself and did it from the start to that move.
Spent a while on the top and eventually got it when my RF unintentially snagged a hold under the lip, took a while to then work out which hold it was but was then able to repeat it so just need to link the hard bit and not fluff the finish

T - Curbar - quickly worked out the moves of Late Junction then started trying it.  Every attempt to the final move.  Fifth go was my definitely my final one and should have done it but somehow came up just short when the final hold felt it was in reach.  had to try again and I climbed it so much better, like I knew I had to be super efficient as I was so tired, and was just reaching for the final hold when my heel came off.

Core

Took daughter to mini works after school and she insisted I climb. Nothing hard but a fair volume.

W - wrecked. Some mobility maybe, can't remember.

Th - Leg day, squat, lunge and hip thrust but skipped DLs after first at full weight, thought my back was tweaking but think I was being a bit oversensitive.
Back on handstands after a month or so off, weak as expected
3x sets of scap pullups to +14kg

F - Mini Works to watch nipper in the Sheffield Primary bouldering finals.  Team took a repectable third, she flashed 9/12, had tyre issues on 2 when the baggy, hand-me-down, oversize, Simond slippers came off standing on pretty aggressive smears. Did both the problems easily enouogh with decent shoes on so reckon could have scored another flash and a second try, nobody did the 12th problem so she could have been in contention were it not for tight dad. Fairly respectable anyway competing against kids mostly a year above her.

Concert and beers in the evening

S - Felt rough. 3x10mins LI Aero. Tried mobility but didn't have the gas.  In bed my 9pm.

S - still rough, pretty sure Friday wasn't messy enough to generate a 2 day hangover so possibly coming down with something. Sore head and throat make the latter favourite.  Did a bit of shoulder mobility in the morning, kept thinking I'd pop out to Curbar but the showers kept coming, leg mobility evening.

[Murph]

Hi Nai, sounds like a good week. Yeah I mean hamstring as a big catchall - foam rolling glutes, doing the elastic band stretches and 90-90 stretches where your legs are sort of in a Manx flag. Stuff like that.

And the shoulders. There’s always something bad about to happen there!

Hope you can get out to Curbar again soon.

[highrepute]

Not really sure where to take things at the minute. Back problems have been flaring up but I’m sort of using that as an excuse. I’ll tell you what, either I put in a good week doing all my shoulder and hamstring stretches or I quit clinging to the dream that someday I’ll climb 8A.

I hope everyone has a powerful week.

Sorry to hear motivation is low. Perfectly normal to have ups and downs though. I think this time of year can be especially draining. Have you had a session on tsunami ( I think that is your 8a rather) recently? I find having a project in mind or on the go is really good for motivation. I can make you done tsunami replicas on the motherboard.

[highrepute]

Sounds like a missed the party at Anston on Saturday. Had half a mind to go but ended up building a wardrobe and going library. Got a cold and Jr not sleeping so probably good I took it easy.

Tue - Voyager VII - not been in a couple of weeks due to sickness. Felt weak and malcoordinated but had a good session. Toby was on hand to give me a push so had a number of assisted goes so that I could top out, which I did after much flailing. The idea had been to try the crux with a little weight taken off but didn't really work as I couldn't weight my hands or feet properly with something pushing back. It was almost like ingrained technique forced me to slump into thing behind me, like back and footing. Chance of getting out wed or Fri this week.

Thurs - hour at the works.

[tomtom]

Murph - I suspect most back problems are caused/exacerbated by seating/posture whilst working/driving etc... For me, once I sort those out then whilst I get niggles - they never get serious (though you have a Volvo IIRC - so its probably not the car ). I've just moved to a couple of different pillows (I'm a side/front sleeper) changing my sleeping position a bit and thats helped my back quite a bit...

As an allegory, in my tennis elbow googling - I remember one physio saying something along the lines of "I've never seen a case of tennis elbow that wasnt initially due to computer/mouse use"...

[Will Hunt]

Th - Leeds Wall routes. Warmed up on stuff up to 6c and then did 5 or 6 sets of 4 on stuff between about 6a and 6b+.

A busy and wet weekend, so no time on the rock this week.

[36chambers]

Tue - Voyager

How many pads do you usually use and more importantly do you stack pads for the start?

I found myself at Burbage last weekend, on my tod with one large organic pad, and went to have a look. Excited to finally check it out, I threw my pad down and quickly realised that I was so stretched out reaching the first hold that I couldn't generate enough bend to actually jump off the floor...

I'm hoping I'm not expected to do a strict OAP to start the damn thing.

[tomtom]

Chance of getting out wed or Fri this week.

If you're out on Weds and want a spot/pad I'll probably be out in the Peak and could wander down that way for a bit (couple of things that end - though not on Voyager! - I could try). Though destination undecided at the moment (forecast/timing blah blah) etc.. (it'll be during the day - 10:30 ~ 3 ish).

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - PE high on board problem, x5 with 1' rests, then 20' rest, then x5 again, fell midway through the last go. Happy. Snatch pulls 5x5.
Tue - rest.
Wed - power clean 80% (64 kg) warm up then pyramid then a final monster set of 30 (10 straight reps and 20 in rest pause, with blocks of four).
Thu - rest.
Fri - 3,5 hours of bouldering in a new gym. Shame about the greasy holds and a lanky setting on the hardest problems, apart from that a really nice afternoon.
Sat - rest. Walked all day.
Sun - ut supra.

[duncan]

STG: Manage aches and pains. Build base of strength and long endurance. One session of bouldering a week.
MTG: Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Westway ‘bouldering’ (inc. 5 Yellow ‘V2/3’), a good unrushed session. Shoulder strength (Is, Ys and Ts on the rings; side planks; single arm push-ups).
T - Brisk 10km walk.
W - Shoulder strength. Pull-ups.
T - Westway aerocap: 8 mins on, 7mins off for an hour and a half. 300m height gain. Shoulder strength. 10km brisk walking.
F - Shoulder strength.
S - Shoulder strength. Pull-ups. 10km brisk walking. Soirée chez 90s superstar DJ (all extremely tame, the man himself was skiing in Vail of course).
S - Vigorously sick. Nearly first non-exercise day of 2019 but manged a very short fingerboard session late in the day. First for ~3 months so much less than most of your warm-ups.

A decent week, gradually upping the volume. R elbow still a little tweaky but tolerating the increasing load. 

Plan: more of the same, build the base, stay fit. Sunday was probably the last chance to get outside this month but April to July should make up for it.

[spidermonkey09]

Good session by the sounds of it Shark. Keep at it, it'll dry off; looked to be improving already yesterday. You going back this week?

Fairly quiet week for me; needed a few rest days and weather was shite.

M- rest and rehab of brachialis and knee

T - ditto

W- ditto

T - Got to the Depot. Felt as though I was treading on eggshells a bit around the various ailments, which were starting to feel better. Felt good on circuits but weak on the board, just wasn't getting the movement right, although did feel good on the undercut problem. Finished with a good set of FOC, 60s on, 30s off x8. Predictably wasted at the end of this. Feeling fit and strong on undercuts but weak on the dynamic and steep stuff on the board. Need to keep an eye on this.

F - bit sore following the session but wore off quickly; encouraged that its nothing too major.

S - went to Wharncliffe, freezing cold. Did the classic HS and bailed; not particularly inspirational but a nice enough crag.

S - Shite weather. Explored Leeds a bit; good Da Vinci exhibition at the gallery if anyone needs to fill an afternoon this week.

St Leger for a week on Saturday, can't wait. Will do a few wall sessions this week and keep an eye on the various tweaky things.

[shark]

Good session by the sounds of it Shark. Keep at it, it'll dry off; looked to be improving already yesterday. You going back this week?

No plans to. Would need a report that the Oak is dry and be fully over this cold (feeling a bit better today but still fragile)