[Nibile]

Nibile - no mention of watching the Motogp on Sunday  good race!

Ahaha it's been a very busy weekend Dave! Thursday afternoon I went to Torino for the first presentation of 1001 Climbing Tips, then to Milano for another one on Friday.
Then I spent Saturday and Sunday in Milano walking all day, going to museums    and trying not to spend a fortune in clothes. I ate like a bastard.
I got back to Florence and stopped for dinner, that I ate watching the Motogp, and telling my girlfriend "Just another lap then we go".
Brilliant race.

[Nibile]

I think it’s time to take a leaf out of Nibs’ book...

Ahaha Nib's book isn't very exciting at the moment. I am a lot more psyched for weights than bouldering and fingerboarding.
In any case, I would sack the running completely: nothing is going to happen on the strength side if you keep running.
You could exchange it for walking. Much much better.
But the Holy Grail of fitness is: loaded carries. You can tailor them on the strength side or on the endurance side. They're the best thing on earth.

[Murph]

Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.

Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.

The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?

[SA Chris]

Were there any dogs around that day?

[Coops_13]

Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.

Haha cheers Murph, yeah it's a great "off the beaten track" destination.

Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.

Yeah that was a good one, tough for the short - I had to do double the number of moves as my mates

The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?

The shepherds would herd their sheep up round the boulders, I topped out and walked straight into 3 massive dogs which chased me back up the boulder...

[AMorris]

Top effort Shark, next good day then!

Really enjoyed the video Coops, kept it together on the footslip nicely.

F: campussing, close to 1-4-7, managed 1-5-7 quite comfortably though, not sure if this is easier?

Usually when this is the case it means you are essentially locking from 5-7, meaning you have good finger strength but need a little more pulling power for 4-7. Strong stuff either way.

My week was focusing almost entirely on getting some enthusiasm back, which lead me to doing horrendous pumpy linkups at the wall and loving it. Thank god for that.

M - rest
T - Endurance training at the wall. Did a few of the easier linkups on the panel (generally involving the white 6c ish circuit into a 6A-6C boulder).
W - More wall, more linkups. Added a dedicated page to the panel book for others to try them. Found a hard linkup through all the steepest panels using the poorest holds. Linking a hard tensiony 7A+ into a pumpy 7A+ that you can't rest on, followed by a final desperate slog round the white. This gave me something to focus on working towards (thought it would be long term). Enthusiasm for pumpy traverses and routes suddenly through the roof.
T - rest. Tendonosis feeling bad at the moment so pushups and rethinking my recovery strategy.
F - Working some of the harder linkups. Found a harder but better sequence through the cave for the big rig, so eliminated some of the holds to make it cruxy and exciting. Turning the first 7A+ to 7A+ section into an unrest-able relentless 7B not too dissimilar from some of the cromlech roadside links.
S - Rest. More tendonosis exercises.
S - Hungover.

Apart from the tendonosis coming back with a vengeance (though responding well to exercises at the moment) this was the week I needed. Still working at about 70% power but my endurance feels great. Looking forward to getting the ropes out and heading off to LPT when the weather improves.

[yetix]

Good to know!

Managed 1-4-7 on the smaller rungs yesterday, so getting back into the swing of things again campussing after not done it for close to a year I think

[tomtom]

Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.

Haha cheers Murph, yeah it's a great "off the beaten track" destination.

Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.

Yeah that was a good one, tough for the short - I had to do double the number of moves as my mates

The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?

The shepherds would herd their sheep up round the boulders, I topped out and walked straight into 3 massive dogs which chased me back up the boulder...

Coops - if you have the time/inclination I’d love to hear/read a write up. The bouldering looks great but I’m interested in what the place is like - how was travel there etc...? What was the vibe of the place. never know you might get yerself a ukc article :D

[Duma]

F: campussing, close to 1-4-7, managed 1-5-7 quite comfortably though, not sure if this is easier?

Usually when this is the case it means you are essentially locking from 5-7, meaning you have good finger strength but need a little more pulling power for 4-7. Strong stuff either way.

I find 1-4-6.5 about the same difficulty as 1-4.5-6.5, but am better leading RH on the former and leading LH on the latter -odd?
Vaguely thought the difference was mostly due to the trailing hand but not really come up with a reason

[GazM]

S - escaped terrible weather in Yorkshire to go to Hepburn. Repeated Rheumatology 2nd go, then Another Flake. Briefly dropped a rope down Prep H and got a feel for the holds but others I was with were keen for Trivial Pursuit so tried that and got close but no cigar. It was absolutely freezing in the wind so went down to try Daze of the Weak and did it 4th go having fully puntered the top on my 3rd. Lovely day, worth the 15hrs door to door.

I guess that must have been you I met at A Northern Soul/Prep H Bradders? Thanks again for sticking your pads under A Northern Soul and your words of encouragement. I'd wanted to do it for years, total class.  Good work on Daze of the Weak.

[Bradders]

I guess that must have been you I met at A Northern Soul/Prep H Bradders? Thanks again for sticking your pads under A Northern Soul and your words of encouragement. I'd wanted to do it for years, total class.  Good work on Daze of the Weak.

Was indeed! I did wonder when you said your name was Gaz 

Good effort on Northern Soul, such a class boulder. Hope you've had a good rest of the trip!

[Coops_13]

Coops - that’s a great video. The setting of some of those rocks looks great. Must have been awesome to go explore them.

Haha cheers Murph, yeah it's a great "off the beaten track" destination.

Loved the one 2:50 or so where you nearly bailed from don’t-really-want-to-drop height.

Yeah that was a good one, tough for the short - I had to do double the number of moves as my mates

The dogs what was going on there? Chased by wild ones?

The shepherds would herd their sheep up round the boulders, I topped out and walked straight into 3 massive dogs which chased me back up the boulder...

Coops - if you have the time/inclination I’d love to hear/read a write up. The bouldering looks great but I’m interested in what the place is like - how was travel there etc...? What was the vibe of the place. never know you might get yerself a ukc article :D

Neither the time nor inclination unfortunately. Happy to answer any questions / give tips though

[highrepute]

James - a Tsunami replica would be amazing. Also contenders are dancing fish and king of lambs and something on Sean’s. But Tsunami is what I always had in mind.

Ask an be ye shall receive!

I've done two problems saved on the motherboard, user name is highrepute. Tsunami hard is pretty good I reckon if you use the metal footholds. I've given it 7c as I'm afraid to give any harder but I could do 50% of the moves so must be hard.

Tsunami easy is there as a string stone. I given it 7a+ which I think is fair as I did it first go I tried it from the bottom. Can't remember which feet I used.

Although I don't think the motherboard is great for making replicas it probably works pretty well for tsunami as keeping your feet on for the match is almost the crux.

[Murph]

Thanks James. Something to aspire to. It’s light years ahead of where I am at the moment but that’s the point. Much appreciated.

[highrepute]

Thanks James. Something to aspire to. It’s light years ahead of where I am at the moment but that’s the point. Much appreciated.

Np. I wouldn't say light years, sounds a bit negative. 8a is only one grade harder than 7c+ which you've done. These things take a lot of time for us mortals too. I must have had a dozen sessions on tsunami where I still couldn't do all the moves. And that's on top of years of climbing on that wall. Just keep chipping away. And that before I had kids when life was easy. I have a mantra of sorts which is keeping trying and you'll do it! Stay positive.

[andy_e]

Just keep chipping away.

...not literally

[Murph]

Oh no dude, I’m totally positive about it. It’s just 5 hand moves into a 7B that I’ve done before....which is, oddly, exactly what AT was.

Taking 7C+ for AT (which I don’t) my pyramid looks like this:

7C+  1
7C    -
7B+  -
7B    7
7A+  7
7A   18

Adding an 8A on top of that would be ridiculous but ridiculouser things have happened!

Further aside, but while watching dawn wall I thought if they can put all that work in to climb their rock then I can and should dig significantly deeper to climb mine. Anyway that’s what inspired me to up my game, announce an impossible dream and work towards it just not underestimating the challenge.

Thanks again for the training routes nice one 

[Duma]

That's a quality pyramid, or should I say raindrop falling on a cowpat ;-)

[teestub]

It sounds like some sort of alien artefact, with a broad base and a floating obelisk!