[jwi]

Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)

Fun little anecdote from the lattice database: with the self reported heights we gather, there's a big spike in the distribution at 183cm (...=6ft)!

haha! I suppose you've seen this curiously non-normal distribution:


https://theblog.okcupid.com/the-big-lies-people-tell-in-online-dating-a9e3990d6ae2

[tomtom]

Clearly short men don’t need dating sites as much.

Obvs. Yet another bit of SCIENCE outlining how hard life is for non short people. 😃

[jwi]

Jonathan Guadalcázar has created a 9b by traversing the entire roof section in Crevillente. Ataxia hiperextension is an extension of Ataxia extension (9a+) which is an extension of Ataxia which is a link-up of five routes.

https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonathan-guadalcazar-salta-al-9b-con-ataxia-hiperextension-en-crevillente/

Well, as they don't have much rock suitable for climbing in Spain, I think we have to accept this one and stuff like Ali Baba as genuine routes.

[jwi]

Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?

[petejh]

Is Taberna an area planned for inclusion in a forthcoming Yorkshire guidebook?

[jwi]

Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9b, Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux, having only done one route 9a+ or harder before (Enzo Oddo's La Moustache qui fâche).

Cedric Lachat has done Pachamama, his 6th and hardest 9a+ so far. As he has already done Papichulo before, Mamichulo is surely on....

[Ru]

Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?

All, or almost all, of his hard routes of 8c+ and above are first ascents, are at only 2-3 lesser-known crags and his very hardest routes are link-ups of his own routes. Easy to lose objectivity.

Also, can Gabri Moroni get a special prize for redpointing Demencia Senil next to a creche and with some idiot trying to park a van beneath him at the same time.

[Nike Air]

You are Spot on there Rupert. What a faff with that in the mix of a hard redpoint. Lad did well to zone in on the climbing

[jwi]

Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux

It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.

[Doylo]

You are Spot on there Rupert. What a faff with that in the mix of a hard redpoint. Lad did well to zone in on the climbing

That video sums up why I hate people and feel gutted when I turn up to the crag and someone’s there.

[tc]

Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux

It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.

Something to do with pulling hard maybe?
"Tirez fort"?

[jwi]

It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.

Something to do with pulling hard maybe?
"Tirez fort"?

4 = [fɔr] in US english ≈ [fɔʀ] fort is correct. The hyphen is called trait in French. Keep trying, took me a while. Hint: pronounce "Eagle" with the thickest french accent you can possibly imagine, then make it even thicker.

[tc]

 Intriguing. I thought a hyphen was a "tiret" in French, hence "tirez fort".
I'll have a longer think about it...😁

[petejh]

Equal force or equal strength?

[teestub]

4 = [fɔr] in US english ≈ [fɔʀ] fort is correct. The hyphen is called trait in French. Keep trying, took me a while. Hint: pronounce "Eagle" with the thickest french accent you can possibly imagine, then make it even thicker.

So something like ‘ee gool’ tres fort? Can’t work out what the first bit would be.

[tc]

ego très fort?

[jwi]

You're almost there: eagle ≈ y gueule (= il gueule), thus Eagle-4 = y gueule très fort = 'e yells very loud. Genius work by Elie Morieux to give the route to Adam Ondra and then call it Eagle-4.

I admit, it took me forever to figure out, even knowing that it was a pun.

[SA Chris]

Well done working it out, I had an inkling it was along those lines, but failed.

Tom Et Je Ris is about my level.

[duncan]

That's brilliant. I was thinking along the same lines as Pete.

Love a French pun but I need help with anything harder than Le rosé est le vin impure. 

[jwi]

David Firnenburg has repeated Papichulo as his third 9a+. The most repeated 9a+ routes are

Code: [Select]

                             Name Grade        Country  N
1                       La Rambla   9a+          Spain 27
2                       Papichulo   9a+          Spain 22
3          Biographie/Realization   9a+         France 18
4                       Pachamama   9a+          Spain  9
5                        Joe Mama   9a+          Spain  8
6                         Catxasa   9a+          Spain  7
7                         Jaws II   9a+  United States  7
8                   Seleccio Anal   9a+          Spain  7
9            Ali Hulk (extension)   9a+          Spain  6
10                   Chilam Balam   9a+          Spain  6
11                         Corona   9a+        Germany  6
12                      First Ley   9a+          Spain  6


[duncan]

Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9b, Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux, having only done one route 9a+ or harder before (Enzo Oddo's La Moustache qui fâche).

Interview on Fanatic climbing

[jwi]

Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?

The former prodigy Edu Marin, for one, is not impressed and blames it on social media https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/edu-marin-y-la-etica-de-la-escalada/

[jwi]

Seb Bouin has done Joe Mama in Oliana but doesn't seem to think it is 9a+, even after breakage.

[jwi]

The trimestrial update of https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv

How tall is Will Bosi?

[jwi]

No, I think that list is just pulled from 99boulders.com as stated, as it mixes routes and traverses, has no dates for the ascents and use non-french approved grades.