[shark]

11.1-5 Average 157.9 down 0.6lb

Well done to everyone who took part in Sharkathon 

M. Morning. Glorious blue skies and 0.5 degrees. Had a shortish window before dentists at 2pm so went on Blind Date. Met Nick there. Highrepute and Mark20 put in appearance. Bit too sunny to be mint. Felt pretty good but didnt hold the slot. Had a few goes on top part at end off the stepladder but was shut down on
Late evening Max hangs session. Got a bit too ambitious with added weight and burnt out too quick

T. PM Foundry autobelay laps. Met Slab Happy

Afternoon. Last minute visit to dentist. Came out unpsyched to go outside. Max hangs session with lower weight than Mon but still burnt out.
Went on my home board. Managed to repeat #Oak2.
Evening. Walked to strength class. Half of my temporary tooth fell out. Felt under par at strength class and started feeling woozy and headachy at end so missed last station. Went home and straight to bed

T. Back to dentist

F. Unpsyched Contemplated training but remembered Sharkathon was over so had a couple of glasses of wine instead

S. Afternoon. Blue skies and snowy in Peak. Headed to Remergence. A few goes on BD but disappointingly glassy. Rocket man Rob showed up and saw the Joble’s on way out. Sacked BD off with a view to going back to train on board but once in car decided to go to Tor instead to benchmark check the kick move on Bens despite only having 2 pads. Surprised to see a team there. They’d bailed from the trench at Curbar as top of boulder had snow which when cleared had ice under. Tor had icicles which were melting. A few hangs then delighted to do the kick move first go with great control  Then did it from kneebar shake first go. Then tried from start and got thru to kneebar shake on second attempt but fell off when releasing kneebar poorly. Third attempt and fell on swivel to kneebar. Left it there. Went home to train but got sucked into domestic shizzle

S. PM Off to Albarracin with Paul Reeve and Karl B

Odd week. Felt like I lost momentum and motivation and didn’t do as much as intended. Three visits to dentist and then blow out at end of weights session knocked me sideways. Loss of appetite midweek though stuffed my face last night when in-laws came round.

Going to take Albarracin as it comes. Not been abroad for over a year now. Never been there though Paul and Karl have been twice so will just go with flow. Chance that it might be too snowy there and we’ll have to go sport climbing instead

[36chambers]

it's not March yet

[Will Hunt]

On holiday most of the week with the in laws. Got out on Saturday and went to Almscliff to avoid the snow. Lots of stuff unclimbable to start. Warmed up on Steve's Wall then went to Stu's Left Hand. Still had very thin skin on the left index - this is still residual from the deep split on matts roof at the very end of December which hasn't had a chance to fully heal. The crimps were warm from being in the full sun and I could feel the tiny hole in my finger opening up quickly. Best go was falling off the cut loose switch. This is really galling considering that I pissed it last week. It comes down to getting the heel in the right place. Discovered that once I've slapped my heel on blind, I can peek round and udge it into position, which should at least make doing that bit more consistent. Then the little hole started to bleed and the heel of my shoe started to peel off so sacked it off.

Mooched around. Pulled onto some stuff with no success. Proper awful day out.

Called at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.

[nai]

Still had very thin skin on the left index - this is still residual from the deep split on matts roof at the very end of December which hasn't had been given a chance to fully heal.

You're welcome 

[tomtom]

Called at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.

There. That’s how you deal with your local MP.

[teestub]

Called at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.

I had always assumed from the names that these traverses eschewed the use of feet completely, is this not the case?

[cheque]

Rehab Diaries Week Twenty-four

STG- Leading HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Rest.

T- Fingerboard repeaters & pushups.

W- Planned to go to gym for the stair-treadmill but realised during the day that as I’d worked from home I could probably get out for an hour or so after work instead. Proved to be the case (evenings getting lighter YYFY) so while walking up to Stanage from Redmires reservoir in the snow wasn’t the beasting the stair-treadmill would have been, I reckon my physio would say that it was better as there’s proprioception etc. involved. Took my camera (without a memory card )so had a bit of a load too.

T- Rest.

F- Awesome Walls. Autos rammed when I got there so got on the only autobelay route that’s always free to warm up- the speed route! In some ways this is a good one for me to do as it obviously has pretty mandatory dynamic moves on it and there are also no other holds on the wall- although I never grab holds on other routes this gives a psychological flavour that you lose familiarity with when you just go to the climbing wall all the time. It’s also pumpy as the holds are quite spaced so if you climb it as slowly as I do you end up with your hands way above your head all the time. Despite not feeling very comfortable on it I did it after a few tries then got on the slackline. Far better at this than last week- I reckon it takes about 7 or 8 steps to get across and I can now do 4-5 most goes after doing no more than two before. I don’t think I was even meant to be on that floor as there was a Lattice training group winding up but I just kept my head down and got on with it anyway.

Something about this combination seemed to be a fantastic warm up as I went back to the autobelays after the Lattice group kicked me out and climbed better than I have done since my accident. Great session.

S- Filming. Had help carrying my gear but still walked a fairly long way uphill with 7.5kg. Very fun afternoon.

S- Gym. Normal selection of weights stuff that I do. Did last week’s leg-press PB weight on my left five times then did new PBs on my left leg and both legs.

Good week. Last week I felt like it was getting tough to balance rehab with climbing training and filming but I feel like I managed to do all three to the fullest this time. 

[tomtom]

Called at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.

I had always assumed from the names that these traverses eschewed the use of feet completely, is this not the case?

😂😂

[nai]

M -
Rowtor.  Tried hard on three problems and lost a lot of skin, unfortunately didn't leave feeling I'd have a great chance of if came back to any of them.
Core

T  - Leg and shoulder mobility

Wed
Bodyweight Conditioning (scapula pullups, hollow body holds, weighted pullups, inverted rows, weighted press ups, planche pressups, elevated pike pressups, dips, handstand practice). Busted.
Core

Thu
Jackson Tor   Stanton    Rowtor    Yarncliffe with Dolly.

Jackson at least had some snow free rock, we tried Full Time but I struggled to reach between the aretes.

Eve daughter had earned a place on the school climbing team and wanted to get in some practice so mini works for a couple of hours, there was a bouoldering league on so we tried some of those, good fun and quite tiring.


Fr -
Leg Day
Core
Leg and Shoulder mobility


S - nowt

S - mini works with daugter again, we both managed a few things that we hadn't on Thursday
Core

Skipped LI again, couldn't face 10 minute reps in the garage in the temps. I will do some this week, I really really will

[Will Hunt]

Called at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.

I had always assumed from the names that these traverses eschewed the use of feet completely, is this not the case?

Given that the grades are so soft on each of them, I have suggested this before and was told that I was just being mean.

Might have a go footless next time I'm there and see how they feel. They're popular problems and I've never seen anyone try them footless.

[36chambers]

Might have a go footless next time I'm there and see how they feel.

I would pay money to watch this.

it would be like watching clothes on a washing line on a windy day.

[Will Hunt]

Might have a go footless next time I'm there and see how they feel.

I would pay money to watch this.

it would be like watching clothes on a washing line on a windy day.

There should be Twitch for climbers! I could make millions in my punterdom!

[tomtom]

M:
Tu:
We: Weather crap - and 4 hours of lecturing left me with little motivation to stop at Anston on my way back to Manchester... My Norovirus was still playing up so decided to stop at the Leeds Depot and play on the woody*. Short session on the BM when I got home...

Th:Hoped for a fun day out in the snow with the boy. Got to Lyme park -2 blowing a bit but nice winter sunshine. “Don’t like it” were his most repeated words. Didn’t want to ride/be pulled in the sledge - played for about 15 min then decided it was too cold and wanted to go home and play with his trains.... hmph.

Fri: Drove to Plantation through fairly heavy snow west of the Peak.. roads were fine apart from the stretch from Pop end to Plantation. The snow brushed off things well - but unfortunately the key holds on Zippys were covered by a layer of water ice... sigh. Brushed off Captain Hook - and tried again for the first time in several years. After a frustrating session on Capn Hook I deduced (all probably untrue) that (a) its a short persons problem :D (b) its a great place to sit and eat your lunch in the shelter of a north wind as the snow blows past you. Nice vista over the valley and just the right amount of shelter and headroom to comfortably lounge and eat whilst most of your mats are snow free (c) the heat transfer from my hands to the rock was enough so fresh snow melted in lines where my tips had been grabbing the slopes

All in all a bit too much type 2 fun for me - Another BM session when I got home.

Sa: Stayed at home with the boy all day - whilst the rest of the climbing world filled their boots!

Su: Given most of the day off! Went to Higgar for a piss about on Piss. Suspected BBG N would be rammed so went somewhere a little off the radar. Had a pleasant couple of hours there with James and Jo (hello!) and got closer than I’ve done before. But powered out - its not a problem that’s easy on the arms. Encouraging though... decided to swing by plantation on the way back - and a couple of the iced holds on Zippys were not iced so worked the final moves a couple of times with very knackered arms. Looked like there was quite a lot on at Plantation - a team on Careless... but pretty much had the place to myself for an hour. Left - totally washed out.


*

[Footwork]

Called at the Glen on the way home and did the "7B" Glen Campus Low without the plinth on the first go. More like 7A.

I had always assumed from the names that these traverses eschewed the use of feet completely, is this not the case?

Given that the grades are so soft on each of them, I have suggested this before and was told that I was just being mean.

Might have a go footless next time I'm there and see how they feel. They're popular problems and I've never seen anyone try them footless.

How would you do the low one footless without dabbing? You'd need 8B core for that.

[Dolly]

M shoulder and forearm antagonist crimpd workouts plus some kettlebells but still feeling affects of day out in London
T Gardoms with Lagers who extremely generously came out to spot me even though he wasn’t well enough to climb. We had to brush snow off but it wasn’t really happening, slipped off both breaks with the humidity. Took my mum out to lunch.
W kettlebells and shoulder thereband
T see Nais post. Made some progress on full stop but need another less cold session on it
F auto belay at gym
S big kettlebells and core session at gym. Felt great
S Family walk over Houndkirk moor. Fucking freezing. Went to the Da Vinci exhibition at Sheffield millennium galleries. Properly amazing. Shed session where I did “my project “ Felt ace. Massive Chinese takeaway from HuWei. Life is good

[gollum]

 M - RED in the morning on the treadmill, steady away and a good start to the week.
Evening at the Depot. Warmed up with a bit of Campusing. Nice and steady and starting to get back in the groove. Then do three project problems on 50 Board. Good progress on first two with big overlapping links of two halves. Third problem was a bit of a waste of time as was just shut down by a single move every time.....need to find a decent third problem to work on.

T - Leg day. Deadlifts and squats which all felt pretty good. Finished off with today’s RED. Evening session back at the Depot. Three problems on 50 Board for intervals. Think I got the level right. Some successes, some failures, but was trying hard on each rep and each set.
Then some composing for laps. 1-3-5-7 x 3 reps x 3 sets. Threw in a couple of 1-4-6-8 along the way and should do this if was doing it from fresh. Finished off with 1 minute on 2 minuets off for ten sets on circuit board. Hit the right level of intensity.
Worked hard at wall on M & T so when I go on Thursday, I can just do whatever I fancy.

W - Push day. Benching for doubles up to a very steady 95k which felt good, followed by a bit of incline and decline. Finish off with TRX presses and flys for stability.
RED 30...feeling chilled as I run, and helping my mind download the rubbish.
Lunchtime 5 on 3 off at Big Depot. All very relaxed, keep it in a nice zone with not trying to hard, cold on my hands though.
Max Hangs at 100% in the evening. Steady through four sets and then start to tail off a fair bit.

T - Pull day in the gym. A bit of steady deadlifting for doubles, nothing too heavy. OAP managed LH for first time in years, so shoulder repairing slowly and then RH with added weight up to 10k. Finished with some regular pull ups and shoulder activations.
RED at lunchtime, nice and relaxed.
Bouldering at the Depot just for fun. Played on a few Yellows and a couple of Oranges and no success but progress all around and was struggling to get fingers anything like warmed up. Then flashed all the new Blacks for a bit of volume. Was all nice and relaxed and great fun.

F - Max Hangs 95%. All felt pretty steady. Definitely much easier than two hours in the bitter cold watching Huddersfield Giants getting hammered by Salford.

S - Push in morning working bench for doubles again up to 95k and then some shoulder work. Slowly getting some strength back.
Manchester Depot in the afternoon to try the Pinks before they disappeared. Happy with how I got on. Blasted for an hour and pleased with my score. Most chuffed with a delicate arete type thing.
Ran twice today. Once in the morning on the treadmill and then out in the winter chill on my wife’s recommendation. Life felt great.

S - Deadlifts up to 140k, nice and steady. OAP on LH seems to be getting there and not causing so much grief in shoulder. RH feeling pretty solid these days with additional e=weight added. Finished off weights with some shoulder work for rehab.
Squeezed in a quick 10k run for a bit of cardio and stress busting.

Feels like I have done a lot this week, but also feel like I have had loads of fun doing it.

[SA Chris]

Hard week

M- Bouldering session down the wall. Not much new, did all the new problems on the vertical wall, knee did not like some of the rockovers.
T - evening tempo session on treadmill - first one I've done and found it hard. Think I got nutrition wrong or something, or burning fuel too fast, felt dizzy and had to stop and get something to eat before carrying on.
W - Boulder session at wall. Main wall closed for reset for comp, so focussed on campusboard and circuits. Surprised at how much better I am on campusboard when fresh. Good hard session.
T - evening interval session on treadmill - 6 x 2:30 at fast pace. Hard, but easier than tempo
F - boulder comp. "Redpoint format" Setting not great, either ticked probs first or second go, or couldn't do at all. Finished second in vets due to someone else pinching slightly further on a volume to me.
S - big run. 24 km on a lovely snowy Deeside. Beautiful day to be out.
S - in the hills with the kids. Sledging and messing about in a random farmer's field. Great day.

[Duma]

Goals: Not got much specific atm, weight 70kg, good trip to Rocklands

M -  1hr bouldering - short session on the new hard set at TCA - this was my second time on these - only managed a couple of new ones as not much time once i'd warmed up

T -  2 hrs bouldering - hard set again at TCA - finished them off (in two short sessions and one proper one), which says either I'm going well or they're a bit easier than normal, prob a bit of both. 80 press ups.

W - 55min hilly run, stretching, 180 press ups

T - Was hoping to get out to Cheddar but forecast was really cold and snow due to come in early afternoon so sacked it for the wall. Max hangs (6x10s +25kg), still feels hard but just managed to complete. Campus went really well, think the Max hangs are good recruitment for this. managed 1-4-6.5 x 2 leading L and R, and 1-4.5-6.5 (which I find much harder) twice leading R and once leading L. once round my 7c+ circuit to finish. 40 press ups (total in Jan=900, so missed target of 1000/month but not too bad considering I was at 600 at lunchtime on Tues).

F - 40 min bouldering, bit of a nothing session really, few efforts working a hard move on the front.

S - 20 press ups.

S - 80 press ups, some narrow.

Av 70kg, though rising fast as end of Sharkathon and a weekend of unhealthy eating have conincided.

[Coops_13]

83.1kg -> 83.2kg (another down and up week)

M:

T: Arch. Warmed up then session on the 50. Feeling weak. Had a few goes at others' projects and then set about making my own. Made a good one, somewhere in the 7B - 7C range which I'd like to do before Macedonia. Managed all the moves, crux move is hard…

W: Arch. Session with the gf, tried a load of problems. Flashed lots of mid-grade and did some moves on some harder things. Went to do some rings and a guy taught me better form on my ring muscle-ups. Made them so easy, can do them really slow now and did one with +8kg. Felt piss, plan to increase weight on this. Finished showing a couple of mates my board project, then surprised all by doing it shortly after. Somehow felt strong after two days on!

T: 
F: 

S: Arch. Hungover session firstly spent flashing a number of the problems I haven't tried and worked some harder things. Pushed my knee a bit more which was good. Then moved onto the board and had an OK session. Finished with some more weighted muscle-ups on rings, managed +16kg

S: Swimming for 30 mins - didn't have goggles so mostly lifesaving front crawl. Tough.

Have started physio on knee, basically got laughed at by physio for the poor muscular stability I have in it. Hopefully this will mean reduced risk of injury in future with work. Also now the cut really does begin - four weeks left...

[gme]

Mon- rest. Stretching
Tues - rest. nothing
Wed - small hold hangs on 10mm micros. Did full set easily so did on 8mm for last two which hurt. Not sure whether to do on 8mm or 10mm with extra weight. Then did 6 one arm hangs on bar with scapular engaged as i think this is what makes my one arm hangs so poor. Felt hard. All followed by campus session, still no where near 1-4-7 on big holds so worked on negatives and pull ups on 1-4. Struggle to pull into full lock with lower hand on 1. Shit but obvious weakness to work on.
Thurs - Felt worked from wednesady and could have easily not climbed but dragged myself to the school and ended up having a great session. Ancap - boulder triples on moonboard. Completed all but one rep so need to up the grade of the problems. Then did 1 min on 1 min off to finish on the steep board which was surprisingly hard on both forearms and skin. 1st endurance based session of the season.
Fri- really worked so complete rest.
Sat - limit bouldering on moonboard but poor session. Still feeling wed/thur sessions. The 1 on 1 off again. Overall got something out of the session but could have done with more rest. Pissed in evening as my lads 18th birthday.
Sun- hungover/family/in-laws type shite.

A good week in all but having to rest more than i want which i think is down to the cold. The schoolroom is freezing and i really think it effects my recovery. Hard week to come this one then 5-6 days off with a work trip. Will try to properly beat myself up before then.

81.3kg so down 3kg since 1st Jan. Halfway to 78kg target for Spain. living off pizza cake and beer this weekend might not have helped this weekend though.

Still very motivated and on track for my targets in May.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - BM incut rung after more than one year. 5" x2 x7 x arm. Didn't like it so much, and neither did my left elbow. The doorframe doesn't allow a correct body placement and I don't want to start adding weight again. Will stick to the 1,5 cm edge in the garage. Finger curls 5x3. Snatch pulls in between.
Tue - rest.
Wed - power clean 70% 5x10. Getting back into it. Press 5x2. Static dynamic pull ups.
Thu - board climbing! Managed to do two problems despite knee.
Fri - various 10' EMOM sets. Dumbbell complex x5, pull ups x5, tricep planks x5. Barbell complex (high pull, power clean, push-press) x5 x5. Abs. 
Sat - power clean, test with 80% of last 1RM (63 kg) 11 reps.
Sun - push ups variations, bicep curl 10x5, one arm ab wheel 3x3 per arm. Overhead/shoulder barbell walk, 1/1 x5. Tired.

[Yossarian]

Two weeks, as I missed the last one...

M - Wall. Somewhat uncoordinated board session, followed by failing on campus board. Worked on some 1-4 pulls as like GME I think this is where I’m struggling with advancing towards 147.
T - 11km trail run / yoga + stretching
W - BM - started with some repeaters then max hangs to -24kg
T - Pull-ups, etc
F - 11km trail run
S - Wall. Brilliant session despite forgetting all my stuff and having to borrow worn out minuscule Skwamas. Focused on newly-set section and flashed everything up to the harder things, which I then worked through with reasonable success. 4 hours though, and thoroughly worn out.
S - 7km run on the seafront. Vicious headwind on return stretch wasn’t fun.

M - Wall. Still a bit fucked from Sat. Quite successful mini board session, then war of attrition on various unfinished problems downstairs.
T
W
T - Wall - Finally ticked unfinished stuff from previous two sessions, but at the cost of worn out skin and some shoulder pain. Yoga / stretching PM
F
S - Wall. Persevered despite feeling heavy and weak and a bit worn out.
S - 7km run - fairly fast (for me) and quite good fun.

Weight hovering just above 90kg. I think I’ve got into a bad habit of trying to do too much at the wall / compromising recovery, etc. This was meant to be a lighter week and I skipped running for a few days, but ended up feeling more knackered. Tricky when wall visits involve a 2hr round trip. Perhaps more sleep required...

[jamesturnbull97]

M-S: Weeks skiing in Val d'Isere with parents, great conditions got to ski new snow everyday wether it was tree skiing in the bad vis or some of the higher faces in some of the clear weather windows. Highlights being day 2 hiking over the ridge from the top of the Madeleine chairlift dropping down into the next valley in really new snow and being the first over there, although that made it hard as I had to blaze the trail on the hike through thigh deep snow. Also the final morning, didn't snow as much as forecast but the 3 runs down La Banane (Face of the Banana) was some of the best powder skiing I've down in a long time.
Back to reality now, looking forward to testing the ankle climbing again this week (probably on Austrian Mock  ). Not noticing it much now just the occasional tweak or it starting ache a bit if I've been walking around all day.

[Bradders]

M - mint grit cons. Doesn't get better. Out to Earl mid-afternoon after a packed morning at work. Very lucky to be out. Had about 2 hrs on Lager3. Still no dice. New beta didn't work so reverted to old beta which whilst really consistent getting to the last hard move I think leads me down a dead end. Went back to new beta and had a go where everything felt incredibly easy and then my foot popped setting up for the penultimate move. Sacked it in disappointment and frustration after that. Repeated The Flakes, then worked out the sit moves and did it about 4th go with the absolute last reserves of energy I had. Basically fell up it.

T - repeaters fingerboard session. 4x 6r 7/3s on half crimp large slots and same on medium slopers w/ 2 min rests. Sloper ones felt nails, only just completed each set. Afterwards did some front 3 hangs in open and half crimp.

W - rest

T - went to Caley thinking it'd be wet with all the fog about. Amazed to find it bone dry. It was about -4'C; cheating cons basically but only if you could stay warm. After warming up I managed Juju Club 2nd go, then Zoo Stand first go which was a massive confidence boost. Went from the start once on Zoo and matched my high point again, then after a couple more tries did the deadpoint/cut loose link. Unfortunately at that point everyone else who's pads were under the problem got too cold and left. Repeated Blockbuster twice with the jump start and had lots of goes at the low, feeling sort of close. Finally, I went down to Crystal Method and managed the retro-flash, which I'm about as chuffed with as anything I've ever done in climbing.

On my way home went to the Depot and did about an hour on the 50. Mainly tried easier stuff and enjoyed trying a new one from Tom F.

F - rest

S - Caley again. Tops all covered in snow, but the kind where brushing it off revealed dry rock beneath. Spent about 45mins clearing the top of Zoo which was tiring but very satisfying. Session started well, did the stand first go again and matched my high point again with first go from the start, so at least the beginning and end feel wired. It boils down to the middle sequence which I repeated a couple times although not without taking a bad ping off which gave me hot aches for 10mins, split a tip, pulled a nail from its bed and I think pulled something in my chest. Managed at least to link the cut loose into the stand for the first time (and then fell off), so some progression. Felt kind of wooden all day, think it was too cold really. Once done on Zoo I quickly tried Andy's Problem sit and figured out the moves, then did it from the sit into the crux move of the stand.

S - battered from the day before. Just did 45mins of yoga in the evening.


Really disappointed with Saturday's session on Zoo. After feeling so good on Thursday I think I was hoping for a bit more progression and at least a new high point. I did make a little bit of progress I suppose, just less than hoped. Going on the board was probably a bad idea really as I wasn't then fully recovered. I've hit my 3 session limit on it now anyway so time to try other things for a couple of weeks at least.

[duncan]

Stick at it everyone.

STG: Manage aches and pains. Aerocap.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this winter (??), Colorado bucket list routes in May, a classic E5 this summer.
LTG: 5.13 at 60; a LH&F BHAG.

M - Westway ‘bouldering’ (does UK 5c count?). 9km brisk walking. Shoulder/elbow (reverse flys on the rings, side planks, crawling, single arm push-ups).
T - Shoulder/elbow.
W - Westway autobelay routes. 225m to 6a+. Shoulder stretches.
T - Shoulder/elbow. 
F - Shoulder/elbow. Hips/knees (step-ups, single-leg squats). 10km brisk walking.
S - Westway autobelay routes. 250m to 6a+. 12km brisk walking.
S - Westway with the lad: tiny bit of bouldering. 10km brisk walking.

Low mood and brewing a cold, it's that time of year. Shoulder and elbow tolerating increase in volume climbed which is the most important thing at this stage. Weight reluctant to shift: 4kg above good, 6kg above ideal. 2 weeks to Siurana, can't come soon enough.

Plan: continue to increase mileage. Cautious bouldering.