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The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan (Read 9907 times)

jamesturnbull97

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#25 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 05:17:17 pm
Griffs Club is so last year. It's become Depot Board Club now.
More like Austrian Mock Club

nai

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#26 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 05:34:23 pm
M -
Anston with tt, checked out Woodys for the first time - continued to hoover up king lines
Core
Leg/hip mobility

T - 2x10mins LI AeroCap
Shoulder Mob

W -Leg and shoulder mobility

Th
Bodyweight Conditioning exercises, some sporting my new Aldi weight vest, so not strictly bodyweight.
Bit of Core
Leg and shoulder mobility

Fr -
Thought about heading out but faffed around too much, ended up doing a short board session for the first time since the shoulder tear. Felt ok.
Lot of Core
Leg and shoulder mobility

S
Leg and shoulder mobility

S - hangover - nowt.  First day of the year I'd not managed to do anything


tomtom

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#27 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 05:46:02 pm
M: Anston with Nai on way to Hull. Checked out Woodies for the first time. Despite a knacked right hamstring managed to do The Unnamed. Nai did it too including an alternative finish. Pissed about on Soul Crusher for a bit laughing at the amount of oomph needed for the first move - until a text to shark revealed there was a sneaky heel to make it fractionally easier. The wrong heel for me..



T:

We: Stopped at Plantation on the way back to Manchester. Dusting of snow - and only myself, a couple of likely lads from the Works who were wondering why 6's outdoors were so hard, and a man in yellow trousers filming himself doing laps on Green traverse from a camera balanced in a shoe on a tree :D

Anyway, it was mint. Warmed up on some stuff then set about working a sequence for me on Zippys. Great little session - managed to get it done in overlapping sections and worked out what to do with my heel/body position etc.. Green-traverse man came over to do some laps on Jerrys and it turned out it was Steve Mac. Had a great chat with him for 30 min or so in between our respective attempts/laps. What a nice bloke.

Th: Cold I felt coming on on Weds got worse. 3 hours in soft play with the lad.

Fri: Cold getting worse. Conditions sketchy - wife feeling ill too - snuck off for a couple of hours to the Depot. Its really weird climbing with a crocked hammy... outdoors you can really choose your problems not to strain them (e.g. Zippys - all left foot) but indoors I'd never realised how much I use my heels or toe down on problems. Meant I had to thug up (front on pull hard) lots of things. Got tired fast.

Sa: Feeling crap with cold.

Su: Still feeling crap with cold - but Wife told me to go climbing as I was lookign miserable. Turns out Lagers wife had said something similar - so met him at a blustery plantation for about 3... good times playing on easier problems but was Pysched (despite running nose) to get Zippys done. It was wired on Weds - it should go fast. Of course it didnt.. couldnt get my LF to stick where it was on weds - it was blustery and hard work keeping muscles warm - tweaked hammy again and something in my right tricep. Came close on two attempts... GRRRRR...

Finding it hard managing injuries - hamstring and mild tennis elbow rule out quite alot of things!

cheque

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#28 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 06:58:43 pm
Fri: Cold getting worse. Conditions sketchy - wife feeling ill too - snuck off for a couple of hours to the Depot.

Seriously Tom, I’ve said it before but what the fuck is wrong with you people who respond to getting ill by going to a popular climbing wall and spreading your germs all over the holds?!  :sick:

Bradders

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#29 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 07:04:29 pm
M - rest

T - quick gym recovery session at lunch, stretching and hamstring work. Depot in the evening. Tired from two long days at work and could not for the life of me decide what to do for the session. Ended up just trying yellows and getting burned off by a cripple (Turnbull) on the barrel yellow which felt like a really hard link.

W - rest

T - Depot. Had meant to go to Caley but 36C kindly confirmed it was wet. Was slow to get going, felt really tired. After warming up I started struggling on the barrel yellow again and then Turnip commented that I am a baffling climber given the disparity between what I've done/am trying outside and what I manage indoors. I think this fired me up enough that I managed the problem. Did a couple other easier yellows then went on the board. Did the more difficult stand start (LH wood RH wood undercling start, going straight to the 2nd higher triangle) to my ZY replica first go; never done that before. Then tried from the sit and dropped the penultimate move, i.e. having done all the hard climbing. Tried Steady Intro and linked the first two moves into the stand for the first time ever and re-did the stand. Briefly tried Gourmand-ease and still can't do the crux. Then tried 6 more yellows and did 4 of them.

F - rest

S - 30 mins of yoga in the morning. Max hangs in the afternoon. Pretty much did a pyramid style session working up to 2x 10s half crimp on the low BM2K edge w/ 10kg assistance, then back down from there.

S - Crookrise. Very good cons but really windy so freezing cold and difficult to stay warm. Bit of a disappointing session; other things ran over in the morning so didn't get up there till 3pm or so. Got about an hour on Sole Fusion in the end. Made it to the move to the lip every go feeling really steady through the start moves but couldn't quite hold the swing.

Dolly

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#30 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 07:28:05 pm
M Core stuff at gym, shoulder stabilisation and some kettlebells obvs
T Beastmaker
W
T Good hard shed/board session
F Core stuff at gym plus crimpd antagonist muscles workouts and a few cheeky kettlebells
S Shed power. Started slowly but finished strongly
S Kettlebells, goblet squats, swings. Also managed to walk 14k around London  (including visiting the British museum for the first time) where Wednesday outsang plastic Chelsea for 90 minutes despite being outclassed on the pitch. Great day out with my lad

tomtom

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#31 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 07:30:11 pm
Fri: Cold getting worse. Conditions sketchy - wife feeling ill too - snuck off for a couple of hours to the Depot.

Seriously Tom, I’ve said it before but what the fuck is wrong with you people who respond to getting ill by going to a popular climbing wall and spreading your germs all over the holds?!  :sick:

Blimey!

highrepute

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#32 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 09:19:31 pm
Hard to get perspective on grade especially as bloc board problems aren’t my forte but I’m going to stick my neck out and say I’m hoping they are real world 7B. Open invitation to anyone who wants to come and check them out...

Very tempting...Although, you might want to give up climbing when I flash all your projects 8)

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.


Will Hunt

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#33 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 09:37:38 pm
I do think if we had a whip round we could pay a crew of people to go round to Shark's board, flash everything and downgrade it all to 6B+. Money could be recouped by selling the video of Shark's despair as snuff.

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#34 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 10:24:28 pm
Maybe there should be a downgrade of blind date without the gnarly rock up off the jug. Or at least a name change - blind date version 1.1 ‘Let’s hear from Our Graham’ skidmore in parenthesis

joel182

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#35 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 28, 2019, 11:05:37 pm

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.


Ace - will have to go investigate what you're using for the right hand since I felt a bit short of reach only the normal sequence.

shark

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#36 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 12:06:54 am
Quote from: highrepute link=topic=29855.msg577861#msg577861

Very tempting...Although, you might want to give up climbing when I flash all your projects 8)

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.

I’m used to it - I’ve been burnt off bouldering for over 30 years. You make your sequence look easy but I know it isn’t . I have got to the slots in the past the usual way but might have a dabble your way next time though using that pebble for anything more than an intermediate seems unlikely.

jamesturnbull97

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#37 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 07:25:15 am
Turnip commented that I am a baffling climber given the disparity between what I've done/am trying outside and what I manage indoors. 

Story of my life, much rather it be that way round though. Hard indoors is all relative for training anyway.
Just go and try Mock with Jim then you'll know what being burnt off is!

Bradders

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#38 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 08:14:53 am
Just go and try Mock with Jim then you'll know what being burnt off is!

Ah that's alright I burnt him off on one of his problems easily a couple of weeks ago. Although it sounds like he's improving  :-\

tim palmer

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#39 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 10:43:12 am
Just go and try Mock with Jim then you'll know what being burnt off is!

Ah that's alright I burnt him off on one of his problems easily a couple of weeks ago. Although it sounds like he's improving  :-\

Must have been reachy.

tommytwotone

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#40 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 10:56:17 am
Idea for next week's title - "Leeds Depot Woody Club"...

andy_e

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#41 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 11:12:52 am
Ahem...

Griffs Club is so last year. It's become Depot Board Club now.
More like Austrian Mock Club

Bradders

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#42 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 11:27:14 am
Ah that's alright I burnt him off on one of his problems easily a couple of weeks ago. Although it sounds like he's improving  :-\

Must have been reachy.

I wouldn't know  :tease:

highrepute

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#43 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 12:53:05 pm
Quote from: highrepute link=topic=29855.msg577861#msg577861

Very tempting...Although, you might want to give up climbing when I flash all your projects 8)

This is my Blind Date sequence as mentioned earlier. Hope you had a good session.

I’m used to it - I’ve been burnt off bouldering for over 30 years. You make your sequence look easy but I know it isn’t . I have got to the slots in the past the usual way but might have a dabble your way next time though using that pebble for anything more than an intermediate seems unlikely.

Don't get me wrong I'm not saying my way is easy - possibly after you're established on the sloper it is - pulling on that pebble is grim and best reserved for lightweight crimp lovers such as myself.

gme

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#44 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 01:51:21 pm
Mon - rest
Tue- Small hold hangs from Crimpd. 6x 7 sec hangs on BM micro 10mms at BW 82kg. No thumbs half crimp. Changed tack from intending to do one arm hangs. The fact that i change locations a lot and the equipment on offer changes it wasnt practical. So changed to two hands on small holds. Also i think my shoulder stability holds back one arm hangs to a point where its not working fingers enough.
Stretching pm.
Wed- Limit bouldering at school. F**king freezing.
Thurs- Ancap triples 6 problems 3x each on Moonboard.
Fri - Rings/TRX tension and compression sessions from Crimpd app.
Sat - rest kids stuff. Stretching.Tired
Sun - was supposed to be a big day up at Eden but family drama got in the way and i ended up having a bit of a shit session in the garage. Lots of stretching and Small holds session on 10mms BW +5kg. plus a few weights but forced session due to day being ruined by family crap.

A really good week bar the sunday when it all went tits up. Spoke to the family at the beginning of the year about how i was going to be a bit of a selfish bastard for the next 6 months and they were cool with it. Had all gone to plan until now.

All sorted now so back to the plan. Need even more volume though, too much hanging and not enough moves.

Had three pints on saturday night as well for the 1st time this year. Pissed off with kids so went to the pub. Tasted nice though.

shark

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#45 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 02:12:00 pm
Pissed off with kids so went to the pub.

Know how that feels   :jab: :furious:  :-[   :pissed:

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#46 Re: The Coterie of Crush 464 21-27 Jan
January 29, 2019, 10:28:54 pm
M- nul
T- weather poo so went to new Macclesfield wall (substation) as recommended by some on here - enjoyed the setting and atmosphere-  ok session did 3 x V7/8s - Got Alison some Solutions for her birthday and now she’s started using her feet for a change..
W- nul
T- Strength Asylum: DL 8 sets inc 3 singles at 200, felt very solid. Core work - hyperextensions and side extensions, 3 sets single 1-armers
Stoke AW probs up to V7 then moonboard for a bit
F- nul
S- minus 10 in good connies - pleasant sociable session; close to repeating one of the 7C+ variants of zippy’s but took ages to remember how the moves work; did Lucien’s and Young American a few times, single catch and double.. I do love that place but struggled badly to find friction and kept dry-firing;  my knuckles are in tatters..
S- secondary fingerboard session 9 sets

 

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