[Coops_13]

May as well start it this week...

M:

T: Arch. Warm-up, got 1-4-7 again r-leading, close with l. Max hangs, 8 sets. -18kg, -16kg, -14kg, -12kg, -12kg, -14kg, -16kg, -20kg. PB of -12kg! Did some slabs, core, back physio and antag to finish

W: Crimpd. Hip and leg flexibility 30 mins workout. Upper body mobility 25 mins workout. Forearm mobility 20 mins workout

T: Arch. Warm-up, got 1-4-7 again r-leading, close with l. Max hangs, 8 sets. -18kg, -16kg, -16kg, -14kg, -14kg, -16kg, -16kg, -18kg. Did some more slabs, core and rings to finish

F:

S: Churnet. Tried Mirf's Roof, did all moves but crux and top-out. Did Spellbound 7A+, so good but shar and crimpy. Tried It Just Might Stick 7A+ but no luck

S: Gardom's. Tried Suavito 7B but skin and elbows didn't feel up to it. Conditions didn't feel great either.
Stoney Middleton. Went to Tom's Roof where I finally did Figure of 8 7B+, the moves on this are so good. Also linked The Womb into Power Allowance at 7B

Video of a few problems from the weekend below:

[tommytwotone]

Nice one Coops.

Short update from me.

LTG new Font 7anything outdoors anywhere.

M - evening pass so shot to Lab for a change, bit of a mistake - very busy, and with a lot of newbies so spent a lot of time dodging people not looking where they were going. Current set not to my strong suit either really, seems to be lots of circus style blob-jumping.

Decided to sack it off when I finally made some progress on a Font 6c-ish thing, only to barn door off and land on someone walking directly under me on the mat. Words were exchanged.

T - nowt....working from home so no gym.
W - nowt - intended gym session killed by last minute lunchtime meeting.
T - nowt.
F - forgot I'd agreed to meeting mate for a coffee on lunch so no gym.
S - awful night's sleep due to kids, felt totally dead all day.
S - nowt apart from a decent walk to park with Clem on my back, then associated running about after him when there.

Realised that of late I've slipped back into midweek boozing a bit too much. Not huge volumes, but easy to end up using it as a crutch to wind down once kids down, housework sorted etc and it all adds up.

The odd bit of training notwithstanding, I think my main challenge is to stay on the wagon Monday to Fridays.

[cheque]

Rehab diaries week nine.

STG: leading HVS/ low 6s & carrying normal loads to the crag by end Sept 2019.

M- Nothing.

T- Nothing.

W- Gym. 30 minutes on the bike, increased the levels as usual. Felt pretty hard!

T- Rest. Not too battered which is a good sign. My fitness capacity is coming back pretty well it seems.

F- Nothing. Hip pretty sore.

S- Nothing. Hip still sore.

S- Taking photos at Gardoms. Had my climbing shoes but my head wasn't in leading mode and no-one was on any routes I could have expected to second. Carried a bag with 30m ab rope/ gear in and did a lot of the scrambling about that accessing trad routes at Gardom's always involves. Sore back on return home, but not in the area where I broke it, more in the lower back muscles- delighted at this.

Bit of a slack week rehab-wise. Progress is good still but I'm now looking at a situation where I really need to have sessions where I try hard to make the bigger progress that will get me climbing harder. A bad week in personal stuff so not much scope for that unfortunately.

[jamesturnbull97]

M.

T.  Malham with Mina. Driving into the village in fog isn’t the best sign for getting conditions but walked in regardless fully expecting the crag to be condensed, thankfully it wasn’t but was defiantly sub-optimal. Had another couple of close goes at getting through the Bat Route boulder from the deck and managed a good link through the boulder to the end of the traverse. A good psychological link at least knowing I could get through traverse when it felt like there was soap on the holds.

W. Back again! Should have got through the boulder from the deck, don’t know why I didn’t hold on...arrhh. That go seemed to tire me out for the rest of the day so spent most of the day resting and watching the WCT surfing from Portugal. Had one last go at a link from just before the join with Rainshadow, got to the big move and put my LF on top of ‘the loaf’ undercut for the first time which made the move seem a lot easier, don’t know why I’d not done it before despite that being the sequence Mina originally told me.

T.

F. Malham. A frustrating session, 4 goes from the deck had my hand in the jug at the end of the BR boulder 3 times having felt completely solid on it. When working it I’d decided going straight to the jug seemed best saving a move and avoiding ‘the tooth’ which feels completely fine doing the boulder from the Aardvark belay but having dropped it 4 times something needs changing so am going to go back to using it. The key change was Al’s tip of going to the small edge next to it and getting your thumb of the tooth instead, again this feels fine of the dog so will commit to some RPs with it and hopefully will help with getting through the bulge more reliably.

S. BOB 2018, Depot Manchester. A good laugh heading to one of these again after a few years off any comp climbing, not that I was ever very serious about them. Was pretty humbling to get shut down on the modern style of setting and impressive to watch some of the current crop of youth making them look easy. Can’t see myself getting back into them though but it was a good scene for seeing some old friends.

S.

Hopefully this week at Malham will be a be more successful and can get some good shots at the upper crux on Bats and Dogs.

[Will Hunt]

Goals - various problems up to about 7C. Keep momentum on guidebook work


M - Bit of GB

T - Depot. Warmed up and did a couple of the softer yellows. Enjoyable craic with a few people. Brief soujourn to the 30 board and got spat off something that should be easy. Gave up when I started to feel powered out.

W - Bit of GB

T - Bit of GB

F -

S - Hour's walk with the pram. Errands in Saltaire followed by the park. Little one totally unemamoured with the baby swing, much preferred going down the big kid's slide. Evening, went to dunnyg's house and played Istanbul (win, but they'd never played before) and Carcassonne (loss, but I'd never played before).

S - Slipstones with dunnyg. Did some nice highballs on the left to start. Had a go on Wisecrack Super Direct (7B) and figured out a good but consuming sequence and fell off multiple times touching the top (juggy) break. Frustrating. Put this down in part to feeling hungry and weak. Seems to be a recurring theme that I get to the crag for about 11 and by the time I'm warmed up I'm also starting to get hungry, but don't want to scran a sandwich and then feel sluggish. What to do? Put a hole in my finger on Super Direct's starting mono. Things then went downhill. Went and looked at Simple Sally and failed to get the starting holds feeling good (baking in the sun). Failed to repeat SLB. Did some nice easy highballs. Went home. Overall, a shocking session from a performance point of view. Didn't even pull onto Layby Arete as connies were so crap. Moaned a lot that the grit should not have been called. Good slagging sess in the car on the way home - almost nobody was spared.

[cheque]

Seems to be a recurring theme that I get to the crag for about 11 and by the time I'm warmed up I'm also starting to get hungry, but don't want to scran a sandwich and then feel sluggish. What to do?

Eat before you get hungry.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - low PE, 30/30x15. Brutal so happy and surprised for completing it! Weights, dumbbell complex, ab wheel, abs x5. Brilliant.
Tue - rest.
Wed -  board climbing, hot, tired.
Thu - weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - climbing gym, hot, skin lasted 30 minutes. Not bad though.
Sun - rest.

Happy about the climbing gym, climbed for a few hours with no sign of complaint from my elbow. So different from my board.

[Murph]

Coops - looking damn strong.

Thanks powerclubbers for all the support in the last thread. Lots to work on.  Not that I have put a plan together yet. In fact last week was particularly feeble as various factors (analysis paralysis, work, kids with chicken pox) conspired against.

Also not going to ditch other non-climbing goals.

Goals- decent 10k, 32kg kb routine, getting climbing form back

M-kbs, stretches, 10k run
T-kbs, stretches
W-
T-
F-
S-5k run
S-Anston Woods. First time there. Excellent venue. Conditions v good. Surprised we were the only ones tbh. Tried Last Stand and Blind Bat but couldn’t quite put either together. shame, 7As in a session should be a thing but mind isn’t in it. Enjoyable morning out though will be back.

[shark]

Thank coops 

11.1 average 155.5kg down 0.8lbs

M.

T.

W. Cancelled going to Malham the previous day due to it being piss wet through. After a tricky business meeting dragged my sorry arse out to the Tor. Mimi and Andy Cave there to cheer me up. Average conditions. Played around on Bens and belayed Andy who managed a season high point on his 5th redpoint on Mecca.

T.

F. Malham. Drove up on own. Only Mina, James, Kettle and Dave R there. Glorious sunshine :-( then cloudier and better then became greasy. Struggled on Oak. All very demoralising. Main positives were Mina cruising Predator and Kettle almost doing Raindogs and then introducing me to the butt squeeze which seemed to help stabilising when applied at the end of the throw to the horn

S. Felt wiped

S. AM Felt wiped. PM Family walk at Stanage. Eve Fingerboard warm up then tried Oak problems on the board and managed to do them in succession for the first time ever  Then did some decent max hangs so not lost strength.

Going to keep showing up at Malham and try hard on the Oak till it gets wet despite my poor performance. Hopefully I will learn some more new things on it though.

[nai]

M - system board & TRX

T - 2x10mins LI AeroCap + Gymnastic bodyweight, core

w - rest

Th - short repeaters, didn't check the weight I used last time and added too little from memory. last coupel of sets a 2am taxi rank scuffle but overall intensity too low. Conditioning bits, core

F - Burbage South with tomtom, little play on the little prow to warm up then on to Violence. Did the bottom after a bit of faffing and managed it a few times but too goosed by then to make the move to the lip.  Decent session, got a chance next time I reckon

S - 2x10mins LI AeroCap, 20 minutes core. Lunges

S - rest

[spidermonkey09]

Thanks all. That first 7a+ looked particularly good Ross! Dropping off looked way scarier than topping out...

M - skin was mush.

T - Depot. Absolutely roasting in the main room so retired to the 30 board with Will. Eventually did a problem which Foley reckons is 'about 7a'. Its taken me several sessions, so I'm clearly off the pace!

W - Fingerboard. Freestyling continues, quite enjoying experimenting and finding my own method. Set of repeaters with a 10kg weight vest on, on the 2000 slot and a lattice edge. Unsurprisingly felt quite tricky and found it hard to avoid dropping out of half crimp. Suspect this should improve though. House was too hot as well which didn't aid conditions! Finished off with some more core; worthwhile.

T - Went to the cliff after work. Too hot for Exorcist so soloed around and did the WoH traverse.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Back on Predator and surprised myself by making it well past the rest from the ground, eventually falling moving across onto the ear/clipping flake when I botched the foot sequence. Really pleased with that progress. Second go wasn't as good and struggled with cold hands. Did refine a few sequences though, including the top section after the first lower off which should *hopefully* ensure that if/when I make it to the rest I shouldn't drop it. A very pleasant surprise to suddenly be on redpoint and am hopeful that if conditions and weather play ball for the next weeks I may get close. If not, it will have to wait until the spring.

S - skin ruined. Tried Trust at Guisecliff and couldn't do the first move reliably. Sacked it and went to Crow Crag. Did a few bits and pieces around there and tried Fluide; great problem but if there is a stump method I'd be interested to hear it. All the videos are of lanky people laying one for the top!

Same again this week pretty much and back to Malham on Saturday I suspect.

[jamesturnbull97]

tried Fluide; great problem but if there is a stump method I'd be interested to hear it. All the videos are of lanky people laying one for the top!

Not aware of any other beta, just lay one on even more!

[Coops_13]

Thanks all. That first 7a+ looked particularly good Ross! Dropping off looked way scarier than topping out...

Haha I dunno, it's proper green above...

[Duma]

11.1 average 155.5kg down 0.8lbs

 

no wonder the oak is feeling hard

[tomtom]

11.1 average 155.5kg down 0.8lbs

 

no wonder the oak is feeling hard

Thought you'd packed on a bit of timber for the winter Shark...

[shark]

Just making sure everyone is concentrating <cough>

[duncan]

Missed the last four weeks due to being in a bit of a hole with a recurrence of the elbow tweak, not climbing at all, and having a difficult time at work. All reinforcing each other of course.

I have managed to stick with the shoulder rehab. stretching nearly every day and I’m only 10% short of full range now.

STG: any kind of climbing, 2-3 times a week. Manage aches and pains.
MTG: a proper 7b+ this year.
LTG: a classic Pembroke E5; 5.13 at 60
 
M - Stretches, shoulder strengthening
T - Stretches. Das Rheingold.
W - Vauxwall east - 10x VB
T - Elbow sore. Die Walkure.
F - Fingerboard micro session - 20 x 1 second hangs.
S - Stretches.
S - Vauxwall east - 8x VB; 8 x V0. Siegfried.

Early stages of gently easing back into climbing. Currently, 15 minutes of the most gentle bouldering imaginable makes my elbow sore. This will get better if i pace my reintroduction to activity. I have a trip to Siurana coming up this weekend, which is great, but not ideal timing. I had hoped to use the visit to have a play on some slightly harder-than-usual routes to identify a project for next spring. Perhaps not this time.

One aim for this winter is to check out some of the new walls springing up around London. First off is the Vauxwall (East). I should have done more research beforehand because this turned out to be more expensive than I anticipated (£70 for a month). It’s in a very attractive building, staff are extremely pleasant, membership gives you access to multiple walls (which I don’t need) and there is a decent dedicated training area but the climbing is nothing out of the ordinary. It’s hard to see why this costs £20 more than you pay at most of the other London walls. 

Plan: Götterdämmerung. Do some climbing.

[tomtom]

M: Anston with Dolly and Nai. Good fun. No sucess.

W: Anston with Dolly. No ticks.

Fr: BBG S with Nai. Not grit season yet.. but good fun to get acquainted with the brown stuff again..

Sa: Managed a sneaky hour at Brownstones, Nexus wall stuff, Pigswill, Hanks etc..

[measles23]

66.6kg

M: nul

T: First visit to Manchester Depot as recommended by Eli - very impressed... lovely friction (apparently they jet wash the holds), great setting - flashed a couple of the v7/v8 and did a bunch more of that circuit.. prob sacrilege but didn’t really like the beasty board although it’s very impressive - Stoke moonboard still my favourite as I want boards to be small crimps and shitty footholds, rather than massive moves between massive slopers...

W: nul

T: Strength Asylum- DL: 7 sets up to 205 = happy - used to be my final warmup, but ok given DL is taking a backseat, and still 3bw
Stoke AW moonboard, so good with Dom’s wooden crimps and shitty footholds, practically an indoor kudos wall replica.. worked moves on Col’s new roof v8 tootsweet but saved send for next visit

F: nul

S: Fboard BM micros (10s): 11 sets up to +30 x 5s (open crimp)

S: Stoke AW 2 hrs probs - tried new pinks circuit comp style but greased off a couple, failed to link the new roof V8 as left it too late in the session d’oh..

[Yossarian]

Have been enjoying the recent PC resurgence, so am rejoining.

Weight: 88.3kg

STG: 147, 7ANYTHING, weight down to 85kg
MTG: 7anything
LTG: 8something

M: 45 board and campus. 1357 a few times, 145 both side. 146 still feels some way away. Then some decent goes on V6-8 problems downstairs.
T: Mini weights session: KB press, lateral raise, ab roll. Then 30mins yoga.
W: 45 board and campus. Similar to Monday, with a few reps of 13579. Downstairs for some slab / footwork focus.
T: rest
F: Max hangs to +30kg, and some crimps. Weighted pull-ups to 4x @+30kg
S: Competiton wall problems - focused on trying to flash as much as possible, and then a seige on a momentum / 1-2-3 type V8. I usually steer clear of silly dyno type stuff, but figured that some extra coordination might come in useful.
S: 30min yoga plus some stretching

Inspired by Coops, both in terms of strength training and unleashing his bouldering skills on some sport climbing this year, I’ve been working on strength / oomph for the last few weeks. Quite surprised at how quickly I’ve found performance improve on both the 45 board and other problems in general.

Also, all the 60kg sylphlike technique-meister I try to emulate turn out to be wickedly strong too. My conclusion is that all 80kg plus wads must be insanely strong.

Due to unlikliness of getting away sport climbing till later on next year, I’ve decided to park Project 8a for the time being and focus on bouldering. That should work far better with family and super-keen 7-year-old in particular. And then when the opportunity presents itself, I will train up for a sports trip and unleash, etc, etc.

[Coops_13]

Inspired by Coops, both in terms of strength training and unleashing his bouldering skills on some sport climbing this year, I’ve been working on strength / oomph for the last few weeks. Quite surprised at how quickly I’ve found performance improve on both the 45 board and other problems in general.

Good man, you'll be up 1-4-7 in no time!

[slab_happy]

Seems to be a recurring theme that I get to the crag for about 11 and by the time I'm warmed up I'm also starting to get hungry, but don't want to scran a sandwich and then feel sluggish. What to do?

I have the same problem, and found a solution in home-made protein balls, which turn out to be stupidly easy to make (also cheaper than buying them):

25g whey protein or other protein powder of choice, 1 tbsp nut butter (peanut, almond, whatever you fancy), 1 tbsp brown rice syrup or any other syrup-y carb thing -- barley malt extract is good. Mix it all together, squidge it into a ball. If you're feeling fancy you can add green tea powder or chocolate chips or anything else you like.

Helps keep me fuelled through a session but without the effects of eating a meal (which makes my body decide that we should just be chilling and digesting for a while and definitely not pulling hard on anything).

[shark]

I start with a bowl of muesli for breakfast and a swig of concentrated beetroot juice then my current nibbles of choice which I graze through the day on are malt loaf, chopped Aldi Frikadelen (or sausage) and chopped cubes of cheese and nuts and raisins. Sometimes take a banana. Finish the session with a cheap chocolate milk 26g protein drink which you can get from Better Bargains.

[Murph]

Measles, Open crimp = half crimp, right? Aka the one I should be doing...?

Kudos replica sounds like a good idea. Here’s a motivational send vid.

[tomtom]

That video makes me think of polish, feet skittering about, snatching at sharp holds and getting all bunched up and feeling frustrated.

:D