[tomtom]

Re food before a session.

Will, I typically eat something before I drive to the crag (eg about an hour before). Usually something substantial but not bulky/heavy. A sandwich or some pasta and veggies. About 400 cals worth if it’s written on the packet.

I’ve wasted sessions (precious sessions) turning up at 11 with my breakfast long gone and lacking in energy before lunch.

If it’s evening - split an evening meal size meal into two have half before half after.

Beetroot juice. Ffs. 😂

[lagerstarfish]

Beetroot juice. Ffs. 😂

you'll be laughing on the other side of your face when Shark has ticked 8a+ and you haven't

[measles23]

Measles, Open crimp = half crimp, right?

Yerp don’t find the strict definitions work well for what I do - mostly I do exactly as per Dai Koyomada - index, middle and ring crimped, little open, thumb stabilising to the side but not wrapped over; it’s the closest to what I do on rock - recently I’ve been doing more true open crimp, with thumb off and a more active finger engagement like wot nibs says on t’other thread..

Have done full crimp in the past but yes it does get tweaky - gonna do some double wrapover (thumb and little) crimp boarding for a bit now for ‘that’ hold 

[tomtom]

Beetroot juice. Ffs. 😂

you'll be laughing on the other side of your face when Shark has ticked 8a+ and you haven't

If it helps Shark get up his 8a+ project then great 👍👍

[shark]

Its natural and the worst it can do is nothing

[moose]

Its natural and the worst it can do is nothing

Maybe for you... when I was a student I worked summers at a pickling plant.  The smell of beetroot gives me flashbacks: I stand in impotent panic as hundreds of jars fall out of a sterilizer and smash onto the floor.  A hatchet-faced 17 year old in a supervisor's red hat screams about production figures and pallet-stacking patterns.  Your "innocent" bit of beetroot based lactate buffering could result in me collapsing onto the catwark in a foetal position, weeping and muttering about "Line 3, filling end". You. Selfish. Bastard.

[nai]

Maybe the beetroot is to offset the effects of the malt loaf.

Malt loaf? You might as well put a brick up your jumper.

I would have thought you'd be better off taking the nutrients at different times. Eat the high fat stuff for breakfast, as bacon and egss obvs, which will have had a chance to digest by the time you get to the crag then have your carby cereals (ok, flapjack), banana and dried fruits for crag snacks which provide more instant usable energy?

[Nutty]

Beetroot juice. Ffs. 😂

I half-jokingly attribute my half marathon PB earlier this year to beetroot juice and lightweight shoes (couldn't be the months of training).

[teestub]

Malt loaf would appear to be high carb, medium protein and low(ish) fat, so decent crag snack material https://www.soreen.com/products/original-malt-loaf/

[nai]

Quite possibly, Joe's rant just sticks in my mind, thought it was quite funny.

Can't eat it unfortunately, turns my guts to mush and anybody else around suffers along with me.

[yetix]

Coop's has been nagging me to start doing this again so here we go!

STG: resolve finger injuries and get outside as much as possible in the interim
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M: Rest
T: Short session at the depot (30 mins warm up and 60 mins working through the new yellows) managed to tick 6 off (soft) BM 5x18mm 10s hangs+20kg 5x8mm 8s hangs both half crimp.
W: Rest
T: Cave session, started off badly struggling with the pillar, then quickly sent the flake and gave RA a few burns, was pleasantly surprised to do it from the first two pockets to the end (may have just dropped off at the final pocket but felt very comfortable regardless), Burns following this were less successful. Started working Lou Ferrino to get some additional moves in the bank.
F: Bench Press 3x8 (60kg)
Shoulder Press 3x8 (40kg, 35kgx2)
Pistol Squats 3x5 BW
S: Short session 90 minute session at Rockover, ticked 5 benchmarks between 6B+ & 6C+ followed by BM 5x18mm 10s hangs+20kg
S: Rest

Fingers recovering fairly nicely, will be nice to get my hang values a little higher again and leaving me a little more confident in them again!

looking forward to getting out as often as possible now though!

[cheque]

What you eat before, during and after climbing is massively personal I reckon. I eat sandwiches all day at the crag myself. I understand most people consider this madness but it works for me.

Can't eat it unfortunately, turns my guts to mush and anybody else around suffers along with me.

I had to quit putting Sriracha hot sauce on my tea every night for the same reason. 

[TobyD]

I had to quit putting Sriracha hot sauce on my tea every night for the same reason. 

Jesus H Christ. Mike FYI the only thing that should go in tea is milk. If you're a builder, or suffering from hypothermia, you're allowed sugar as well. Sriracha? I ask you what is the world coming to?

I am mostly of the opinion that it really doesn't matter that much what you take to the crag as long as you like it, but not enough to trough it all in one go.
I once climbed with a Basque dude who ate those plastic looking frankfurters out of the packet at the crag, no adornment just nasty sausages au natural. Occasionally he had some haribo as well. He has climbed 9a.

[Bradders]

I had to quit putting Sriracha hot sauce on my tea every night for the same reason. 

Jesus H Christ. Mike FYI the only thing that should go in tea is milk. If you're a builder, or suffering from hypothermia, you're allowed sugar as well. Sriracha? I ask you what is the world coming to?

I think he means tea as in the Northern word for supper, as opposed to the hot comforting beverage referred to by the word everywhere else