[nai]

we need whoever's running this club to keep order.

"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"

[spidermonkey09]

I read this entire thread sometimes and have no idea what is being discussed!

Had a very relaxed week with no redpoint stress.

M - rest.

T - Depot. Tried to remember how to boulder again and very much enjoyed just doing some problems rather than doing 4x4s on the 30. Established I'm pretty weak and core has gone to pieces.

W - Ilkley trad. Did a few nice bits.

T - Depot. Improvement from Tuesday, starting to remember how to move dynamically. A few purples got done, which is my usual 'first or second go' circuit when in the middle of bouldering season.

F - rest.

S - Rylstone. Loooong walk up! Bit soggy on arrival but dried out well. Some great highballs on scrittly grit and a brilliant 7a/+ next to Lanny Bassham. Amazing looking problem that. Pub afterwards; good day. Psyched for moorland grit.

S - Malham. Wasted after the previous day. Arrived to find the left wall gopping. Martin remained optimistic but I wasn't convinced. He was proved right as it dried significantly through the day. Mescalito had a lot of soggy holds but Martin clearly had it dialled and did it first RP; good effort. I made it to the run out before running out of gas. If it dries properly I think I'd do it but I hate dodging the damp patches. Might dry out properly this year but seems unlikely.

[TobyD]

we need whoever's running this club to keep order.
"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"

It is surely highly appropriate discussion for UkBouldering? After all it's not called Yorkshire sport dot com is it? 
Peak sport routes are mostly boulder problems where you have to drag a string, and therefore eligible topics.

[shark]

11.1-3 average 156.3lb up 0.7lb - fourth week in succession of incremental gains - not good ones 

M. Morning. Tor with Tom Smart. Cooler, low humidity, sporadically blustery. When wind up was mint. Went on Anger Management which I’ve not been on for two months. Dogging go felt much stronger on the moves. Decided to try redpointing. First Redpoint got to middle of headwall clipped bolt and fell going for left sidehold pinch. Second redpoint pulled all the stops and with some power screams got higher still with right hand on Gaston trying to bridge right foot up. Neither equalling previous high point but overall my best session redpointing on it as I’ve not got that high twice in a session. Excited. Arranged to go back Friday with Tom

T.

W. AM. Cold. Cornice with Ted. CC to warm up. Dogged up RW and experimented various edges for left foot to go off rail for undercut pocket. All similar. 3 redpoints. First tickled undercut pocket. 2nd failed matching the rail. 3rd touched pocket. Heartily sick of the route. I’ve made such a meal of it. Notes for next time. Wear blancos. Use higher foothold. Force myself to crimp rather than drag the rail. Don’t try to milk the kneebar rests as it hammers core for matching the rail. Ted rinsed Love Amongst the Butterflies - made it look somewhere between 6c and 7b - no harder
Eve. Fingerboard till late Best score 12mm edge +10kg 6secs (PB 9secs in Jan)

T. AM Physio with Louise 

F.Morning. Tor met Tom Smart. Cool but not much wind. Working go on Anger Management. Sussed out a micro beta improvement on boulder problem finish. Connies started to deteriorate - became warmer and drizzly. One decent redpoint go to middle of headwall but the holds had become a bit greasy. Moved on to Bens and had 4 burns and managed to get through to the kneebar on the last go and as usual fell off setting up for the karate kick. Long day. Exhausted by the end.

S.

S. PM Fingerboard. Similar session and results to weds but a few more hangs. I set of assisted 1armers 3 on right 2 on left. 6x115kg deadlifts

Disappointing week overall. Need some confidence building success in my life. Biting the bullet and going up to Malham this week. Strong chance the Oak will be wet and/or connies will be shit. More positively I am scarcely drinking. Just about keeping the faith

[Nibile]

we need whoever's running this club to keep order.
"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"

It is surely highly appropriate discussion for UkBouldering?

Yes, in the beta section!
I think that Nai was referring to this aspect. As of late many PC threads end up in long beta discussions that are useful only for some.
Moreover, it becomes harder then to look for beta on the forum, because there is not a dedicated thread for a problem or route, so you have to either scroll many PC threads trying to remember who went where and when, or do a word search trying to remember which swearwords were used in that particular occasion...
Anyway, I am back to serious fingerboarding and couldn't care less about ze rockz.

[nai]

we need whoever's running this club to keep order.
"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"

It is surely highly appropriate discussion for UkBouldering?

Yes, in the beta section!

Inevitable that if three people posting on a thread are trying the same thing that discussion will take place. That's the joy of UKB threads. And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?
Anyway, I promise it will be barely mentioned, by me at least, next week

[andy_e]

To be fair to nai, he didn't explicitly ask for beta, we foisted unsolicited advice on him.

[cheque]

Inevitable that if three people posting on a thread are trying the same thing that discussion will take place. That's the joy of UKB threads. And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?

Griff's will be wet again soon anyway.

[tomtom]

Griff's will be wet again soon anyway.

Good

I need a change...

[Nibile]

And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?

Ahahahaha you must be kidding! Not in a million years! Not on UKB!
Maybe on a forum on a foreign planet where the rocks are always dry, the holds always clean, and unicorns fly around singing praises to your technique while you flash yet another 8c.
No.
This. Is. UKB.
Land of the dire. Land of the primitive. Land of the offensive.
PC is a testosterone filled gym buried in the bowels of Guantanamo or Alcatraz. You have to earn your posts here.
It's the thread of humilation and unnecessary sarcasm, showboating, false modesty and anger. It's the secret room in which everything can be said. It's the dark cell in which you want to lock your weaker friends, so that noone can see them with you anymore.
It's the land where a tenth of a mm shaved from a deadhang edge is more important than the baptism of your daughter.
It's the only serious climbing thread in the entire world.
No carrots here. Only sticks.

[tommytwotone]

This. Is. UKB.
Land of the dire. Land of the primitive. Land of the offensive.

No carrots here. Only sticks.

Well that's the new T-shirt slogan sorted if/when someone gets round to it...

[cheque]

And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?

PC is a testosterone filled gym buried in the bowels of Guantanamo or Alcatraz. You have to earn your posts here.
It's the thread of humilation and unnecessary sarcasm, showboating, false modesty and anger. It's the secret room in which everything can be said. It's the dark cell in which you want to lock your weaker friends, so that noone can see them with you anymore.
It's the land where a tenth of a mm shaved from a deadhang edge is more important than the baptism of your daughter.
It's the only serious climbing thread in the entire world.
No carrots here. Only sticks.

I'm not sure I recognise your vision of Power Club Nibs, but it certainly makes me feel a lot cooler to post in it.

[andy_e]

Here was me thinking power club was a celebration of dismal failure with a hint of occasional hard-won but fleeting success?

[TobyD]

Griff's will be wet again soon anyway.

Good

I need a change...

...back to foisting unsolicited beta for problems at Anston then? 

Whilst we are on the subject of beta and to stray pretty far  ... if anyone can tell me a good weak persons method of doing the crux of call of nature at the tor I'd be more than grateful. Shameless beta fishing....

[nai]

Being tall seems to make things somewhat easier

From the backhand clip:
RH to crescent crimp
LH gnarly gaston
RH back down to sidepull (née backhand)
build feet up, RF on matchstick edge, LF on one of a few nubbins out left
Deadpoint RH to sika
LF step straight through outside edge into good hold above matchsticks, RF dabs/flags somewhere out right
stretch LH across for sharp crimp
RF on smear out right, fold LF o/s edge into crescent crimp
adjust RF up onto slightly better edge
pop and open out to square-on going LH for incut.

That's the crux, next few moves are tricky so make sure you have them and the top wired.

[TobyD]

Being tall seems to make things somewhat easier

From the backhand clip:
RH to crescent crimp
LH gnarly gaston
RH back down to sidepull (née backhand)
build feet up, RF on matchstick edge, LF on one of a few nubbins out left
Deadpoint RH to sika
LF step straight through outside edge into good hold above matchsticks, RF dabs/flags somewhere out right
stretch LH across for sharp crimp
RF on smear out right, fold LF o/s edge into crescent crimp
adjust RF up onto slightly better edge
pop and open out to square-on going LH for incut.

That's the crux, next few moves are tricky so make sure you have them and the top wired.

Cheers Ian that's different from what I was trying. Sounds better too. Have you done it? I can do rh on sika hold to the top every time, without feeling too bad so optimistically reckon just got to get through the crux from the floor

[nai]

Yes I did it a couple of years back. That sika can feel grim when the rest of the route is ok and seems to retain dampness longer so it's quite conditions dependent I think. Getting that in nick and being really solid on that move is pretty crucial.