[tomtom]

I seem to start this every week... :/ oh well....

M: Stopped at Griffs on the way to work in Hull. Met up with Nai. He was struggling with Bovine, I was struggling with Ovine... Worked lots of variations - Nai seems to prefer the reaching up with the RH the bringing LH up to sloper - I could get the RH up, but bringing left across was nails so stuck to original/usual match slopers.. anyway no successes -

We: Anston on my way back to Manchester. Met up with Dolly. Feeling a bit ropey from a resurgent cold - but managed to gibberish my way up the Cookie. Tried the Rookie and Spider Crab Blues. The Rookie feels really really hard - I can get into the press/Gaston - but I’m then working bloody hard to keep my body on for any of the next moves. Feels waaaay harder than 7A+ to me (others may agree or not). SCB is fun though - but confusion on the first moves - up apprentice prow - but then do you bust out right from ONLY the hold you get from the start - or move up to the one (also large) hold above it as well - which makes it a bit easier.. that would be 7A+ into a 7A+ which would Shirley be 7B? Anyway....



Fri. Hoped to get out but felt crap with cold and sleep deprivation (cold and toddler) so did nothing...

Su: Griffs with Nai again. Progress. I did the first move on Ovine. (Sad but true). And we both made progress on later/latter moves.

[nai]

I seem to start this every week... :/ oh well....

You're doing a fine job, keep up the good work

[Wood FT]

I'll join in this week Tom, so you're not alone

mon - Works after a Devon wedding on the weekend. Did the iron-bru circuit and a few of the easier murples, very enjoyable with a few pound-shop Hubble moves off big undercuts.
tue -
wed - Works, really busy and couldn't get started. I think once we get a new runaround I might go back to the Foundry/Wave. The works is just not a good place to be on a mid-week evening, I'd forgotten how rammed Sheffield is.
thu -
fri -
sat - Early doors at The Nook with Rankine, a couple of RPs on The Storm (7b+) and 3 RPs on The Lockless Monster (7c+) falling at the throw each time. I really rate this climb, all killer and no filler.
sun - The Nook again with James Oakes, unfortunately, it was seeping and very humid, still had a RP tickling the jug on Lockless but then fell off the start and called it quits. Oakes flashed it but said I rope dabbed him, so did it again. Honestly, the conditions were crap, not me, the conditions. Went to the cornice, pretty damp but glad to see Ted.

[Murph]

Alright TT I’ll join in. Ovine is a proper 7B eh!?

This is my beta from the best go I had on it last week when I saw matt there. That how you’re trying it Tom?


M-
T-
W-
T-evening rubicon session. 6-8:30. Got the lamps out. There was barely anyone there, just me n me mate an one other. Bone dry conditions excellent not too hot not too cold so where on earth was everyone? No significant ascents to report. In fact I was amazingly crap.

Still can’t repeat things I all but flashed when I met TT there that time and he told me where bigger splash went. I can’t work out why so much crapness but blame it on a piss poor level of finger board commitment. I don’t know.

My mate wasn’t crap though. He did the porthole traverse into three tier test piece up the groove across the top down the crimpy one in the middle and started up the groove again. 8a route at least but what do I know?

F-light kettlebells, hollowbodies
S-5k jog. Took kids to the swimming pool. So much crapness. Like one lap and I was swallowing water. Shoulders on fire trying to keep up with the fat ladies doing breast stroke - you know, the ones wearing glasses who don’t get their hair wet. Did 6 laps in total. Made me feel good about that shocking rubicon sesh.
S-DOMS. Hour at the works (turns out that’s where everyone was), pinkles and fingerboarding up to +40kgs on small beastmakers. Trying to use non-cheaty half crimp on the big hold and my normal open drag on the small one. Trying, but probably still fooling myself, to use good form.

There are so many people at the works but so few people on rocks. It’s a right mystery.

I say it most weeks on here so I’ll say it again...I need to be more consistent. One fingerboard in a week is not enough to move anyone forward. And two kettlebells. And being just a bit heavier than I should be. If I could fix those three things I’m sure I could get back up bigger splash again. Seems weird, climbed *the proj* last month now I can’t get up my old warmups. Bouldering can be funny like that.

[cheque]

I think once we get a new runaround I might go back to the Foundry/Wave. The works is just not a good place to be on a mid-week evening, I'd forgotten how rammed Sheffield is.

If you fancy indoor routes anytime over the winter I’m totally in the market for a partner Guy. That goes for any other Sheffield climbers reading this too.

Rehab Diaries week 4. Still got my daily home exercises going on.

M- Gym. 30 minutes on the bike, “Bosu ball” balancing before and after. Pleasantly surprised to find I can stand on the ball with my bad leg without touching the wall now.

T- Rest.

W- Gym. As Monday but with slightly different bike settings- I do the same duration each visit but make it a bit tougher each time.

T- Rest. Tired!

F- Rest.

S- Rock climbing. My true love. 24 weeks and 2 days since I thought I wouldn’t walk again. Went to Bamford with my old mate Gaz and seconded four Severes- made noises all the way up each of them (Bamford Wall in particular has got a lot harder since the last time I soloed it...) but thoroughly enjoyed it. Such a great time of year for grit trad. This was the first time I could feel the nerve problem that affects my left big toe- using smaller holds and smears on that side is more difficult- but no other trouble apart from being very weak and tiring easily- talking like on the walk-in  . Carried a pair of 30m half ropes plus other standard cragging stuff (but none of the rack) to, from and around the crag but only really felt much from my back on the way back.

S- Rest. Tired and sore from head to toe!

[TobyD]

If you fancy indoor routes anytime over the winter I’m totally in the market for a partner Guy. That goes for any other Sheffield climbers reading this too.

I'm keen to do some routes at the foundry occasionally, message me when you want to go

[TobyD]

M quick wave session in the evening, new problems to me and seems like a very hard set... Or I've hardly been inside either way I got shut down but in an enjoyable way
T evening run round Burbage. 7km or so
W tor, redpointed ring of fire: fourth session this season, two goes on call of nature afterwards but felt a bit battered. Great gig in Manchester in the evening
T moat buttress, tried drawbridge when the levee breaks down; proper peaky bouldery 7c didn't feel very close at all
F 6km road run
S moat buttress: drawbridge again much closer greased off move to lh Gaston on redpoint now done in two overlapping sections. Also tried great '7a+' two sheep to Lester to finish. Brilliant, despite sketchy bolt spacing and it being a sandbag.
S tor awful conditions tried call of nature again, got the post crux to top link wired, worked out most of the moves. 2 laps on sardine to finish, ridiculously humid and sunny: like wearing a weight belt!

[duncan]

Tom, thanks for keeping the ball rolling.

Mike, great news. You looked thrilled to bits in the photos on social media.

M - Shoulder stretches.
T - Fingerboard session: max. hangs., trying to increase time on 13mm. edges. Knee exercises: mini-squats, step-ups.
W - Knee exercises.
T - Shoulder exercises: side planks, horizontal rows, reverse flys, high angle rotator cuff work, stretches.
F - Knee exercises. Shoulder stretches.
S - Curbar, my favourite grit crag, with Hugo. Super day. As cheque says, great weather for moderate grit trad. Warmed up on the boulders and routelets around Black Nix Wall. Crimp on Last Light (6c) felt big and positive but I was distinctly lacking in pull. Led Soyuz, Apollo and Dead Bay Crack, I must have done some of these in the distant past but have no record or recollection, all good stern traditional challenges. H onsighted Moon Walk and Moon Crack with no fuss at all. Great to see. Had a play on Art of White Hat Wearing. 
S - Family day. Shoulder exercises. Upset stomach so sacked off the fingerboard.

A good week. Knee tolerated the scrambles around the base of Curbar and some 2D climbing, shoulder feels 85% there. As I’ve noted before, fingers feel stronger but I can’t make progress. I need to start moving upwards as well as just hanging. 

Plan: consumer survey of some of the recent London bouldering wall openings.

[Fiend]

That sounds like a meaty day at Curbar for someone who's been in and out of action with shoulder, knee, etc 

[Coops_13]

Two weeks as have been away in Mallorca.

03/09 - 09/09
M:
T: Arch. Quite a long session (3 hrs) but a heavy gravity day. Lots of eating and drinking leading to a heavy feel. Lots of circuit problems including some harder colours (heard they're soft). A bit of board climbing but the moon is so badly built with a corner in the way of the low-right sit-starts and a raised platform meaning the first moves are easier but v dabby. Finished with circuit board and then some rings
W:
T:
F:
S: Cala Barques. Warmed bu flashing Fortuna 6a+ and Hercules 6c. Then went to the second cave and flashed Bisexual 7a and Metrosexual 7a+. Fell off the top move of Transexual 7b a couple of times - good first day
S:Cala Barques. Greasy, grim conditions. Just did the 6b warm-up in the first cave

10/09 - 16/09
M: Caimari Sport climbing. Did Colgao 7b 1st RP - amazing route. Played on a couple of other things then finished the day on Penthouse Guru 7A boulder, vid below:

T: Cala Mitjana. Flashed Illuminations 6b+ then fell off New Forms 6b+ which was much harder. Big swell and a big swim made it difficult to get out - bit of a bashing on the rocks. Then went and flashed Rich Bitch 7a before heading over to Diablo. Tried Afroman 7b and got up to the techy traverse on flash go but too emotionally and physically burned out to give it another go
W:
T: Alaro. Buf! Busy so tried To Pa Ti 7a+, no way top 50, 2 stars at best. Didn't get on with it then the sun came out and got too hot. Went to S'Estret where I just O/Sed a 6b+
F: Cala Barques. 1st Cave did 6b warm-up then down to Block. Flashed Sixty's Silver Surfer 7a, Big XXL 7a and Drop Shadow Diseases 6c+. Then went over to second cave and put Transexual 7b to bed as the sun was setting - came off the top move 5 times in total!
S: Cala Barques. Conditions not amazing. Did a couple of mid 6s before trying a rarely tried 7b direct finish which was v greasy
S:

Chilled trip to Mallorca, maybe not as good as the hype. But I did have bad conditions with stormy seas and a lot of grease...

[tommytwotone]

Goal: new Font 7anything by end of 2018


M - contracted little one's cold, meh. Ibu / Lemsip / caffiene / sugar / carbs / Night Nurse stack.
T- as Tues
W - session with Tim at the Works, with dregs of cold clinging on. Surprisingly positive - think I'm out of the rehab phase since knacking my shoulder back at the end of 2017.
T - nowt
F - nowt
S - went to Depot, but just on a time-killing mission for a coffee with little one
S - AM kid's party at a soft play centre, PM childcare - did a fair bit of walking with Clem on my back which is good for fitness if nothing else

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - barbell complex: clean and press x5, overhead walk 30", deadlift x10, bentover row x10 all x5 40 kg. Farmer's, 30/30 x11 90 kg. Abs. Phew.
Tue - rest.
Wed - ab wheel, strong but a bit tired. Fingerboarding, various hangs. Back3 on 1,5 cm edge taking off 15 kg. Weights.
Thu - boxing bag. Back to 30 degrees... Light weights.
Fri -  pull ups, dumbbell complex, triceps planks, abs.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

[nai]

Nice ones Toby, duncan & cheque.

M Griffs for the first time with TT. Flitted between Ovine & Bovine. Really struggled on the drop-knee move to the sharp ear.  While TT demonstrated it with seeming ease I just couldn't find the right position.  Did better on Ovine, managed to hold the pinch and get the LH crimp.

T nowt

W Blew out TT & 1D to return to Griffs. Practiced drop knees on my board beforehand and worked out the optimal placement for the other foot to facilitate a lock-in, took three different right shoes but still couldn't get anything to work. Eventually did the move with a deep rockover and a nervy prod for the hold but didn't fancy my chances of keepingf my tips if I kept trying it like that.
Tried Ovine briefly but my hand greased off teh sloper and I landed on my head wrenching my shoulder and neck.

T Mild whiplash. Went fishing.

F nowt, desperately checked weather ahead of a family-free weekend.

S The Special K, only it was like the milk had been left on too long.  First time on a rope in 2 months, got three bolts up Directissima before deciding my knot wasn't right (it was fine) and clipping into retie.  Partners project had a single wet hold so I went up to see if was doable, managed to bypass the wet hold and after he'd had a go I went for the redpoint. After an absolute battle including several skin of teeth slaps I ended up at the final move but was too spent.
This would be great if it wasn't only 7a+ which is generally an onsight or easy RP grade.  After that I was pretty much spent, dogged up Sticky Wicket pretty much bolt to bolt pumping so badly between sections that I could barely hold the quickdraws to clip.
Dunno what it is about Kilnsey that turns me into a total punter every time I go there, I'd gone hoping to complete one of the WIPS I tried last time but came home with two new ones.

S Griffs. I was in sub-optimal condition for bouldering, tired and forearms still feeling it from Saturday.  Same again on Bovine.  More consistent on Ovine, now going for the RH crimp, feels like it will be possible with a bt more commitment.

[andy_e]

Really struggled on the drop-knee move to the sharp ear. 

I don't know how tall you are but if you're less tall than TomTom (likely, he's towards the end of a bell curve) different beta may be better. For example, I lock the slot, flag right foot under left, with my right foot on the nobble that you're probably already using.

[moose]

S The Special K....

This would be great if it wasn't only 7a+ which is generally an onsight or easy RP grade.  After that I was pretty much spent, dogged up Sticky Wicket pretty much bolt to bolt pumping so badly between sections that I could barely hold the quickdraws to clip.

Weren't you on Ground Effect, that's 7b isn't it - so perhaps not that disastrous!  And I don't think anyone ever has an easy time on Sticky Wicket; the top section of that route has special forearm sapping powers (perhaps due to a trace mineral in the rock that poisons muscles, or maybe a voodoo curse).

[nai]

Weren't you on Ground Effect, that's 7b isn't it

Not with much any enthusiasm.  When my partner suggested it and I had a look I had flashbacks to trying to leave the ground on Frankie. Wouldn't have tried it if he hadn't lowered off half way.  I'm not counting that as one a WIP.
Sticky Wicket did come as a shock, I've had designs on flashing that since my last visit but that seems laughable now

[nai]

Really struggled on the drop-knee move to the sharp ear. 

I don't know how tall you are but if you're less tall than TomTom (likely, he's towards the end of a bell curve) different beta may be better. For example, I lock the slot, flag right foot under left, with my right foot on the nobble that you're probably already using.

Quite a bt less tall than Tom, and most people.

Do you mean flag Left under RIght with Right rocking in onto the obvious high (to me) nobble

[andy_e]

Yes I do 



It's the foot that TT gets here. I face slightly rightwards as well, so I can properly lock the slot

[nai]

That's the foothold I'm using but can't fold myself into it like that.
I put toe on top and rock right over it then sort of wave at the hold while I peel off backwards.
I'll experiment with facing right and flagging next time.

[Murph]

Nai - I’m the same height as you I think and don’t drop my knee at all. 170cm. 

[andy_e]

Yep, that's how I do it (except for the last move I don't move my feet, I just welly off the right foot in the same place). Worth spending an extra few milliseconds to get the slot really well to aid the lock. I have my forefinger and back three split to make it a bit better.

[Plattsy]

Skinny fingered choughs the lot of ya. 

[nai]

Ah yes, I remember you posting this now but Google hasn't been returning it in search results.
That's pretty much what I'm trying, must keep hips into the wall and experiment keeping left foot lower/flagged.

[nai]

Skinny fingered choughs the lot of ya. 

I tried those things out left. Ming

[tommytwotone]

Do we need to put a request in to the mods to change the name of this thread to "Griff's Club"???