[tomtom]

Afternoon all... another decent week for me...

Tues: Nipped over to Anston after work (from Hull). First time I've done an evening trip there - good conditions and sketched up Last Stand on my second attempt (having nearly done it last visit)



Proceeded to fail really badly on Beta Blocker. People seem to think this is piss at the grade - I find it really hard. Maybe a bit too tall to make regular beta work?? (I hear the tiny violins...)

Thu: MrsTT and TTjnr packed off to London in the morning until Sat... Headed over to Trowbarrow - warm up failures on Shallow Grave, then went and played on Pit Problem where there were a couple of folk from the Depot (hello!) having mixed success.. Last time I was working this problem (2-3 years back) I came away the day after with back pain - that proceeded to get much worse over the coming weeks - so I was a bit apprehensive about trying it again - but all seems OK. I was shit on it - and only came close to snatching up to the crimp once - but was getting the heel and the move up to the sidepull working well. Didnt want to really go for it either due to previous back concerns etc.. It was very warm and humid - so I headed over to Woodwell, half expecting it to be condensed but it was great. I was pretty done in, but worked some beta on Rigpa which had felt impossible last time I was there..

Sa: Back up to Woodwell



Chuffed - took about 90 min to work to this point and despite looking smooth on the video it was a real fight. The move across on the RH gaston and then snatch in with the LH took ages to get right (body position critical) and was a tough set of moves to work out for me. Exhausted - and tried to pull on to Not Bad Dave, but realised it was futile! Then headed back to Trowbarrow and came closer (up to the last move) on Shallow Grave, so thats one for next time.

Really good to head back up to Trowbarrow/Woodwell again after whats probably 2 plus years (Just checked - Sept 2015 when I did Kiss of the Dragon..) - and feeling really good - stronger - on things I'd tried before. Progression sometimes creeps up very slowly - and its great to still be moving forward and climbing better...

[Andy F]

Thanks Tom, looks like you had a productive week.

Tues - rest
Wed - Hangar. Hot and sweaty, which is okay if you're with a woman but not so good if you're in a climbing wall... sacked off trying anything hard and did some volume.
Thurs - was going to do some fingerboarding but sacked it off for 🍺
Fri - nowt
Sat - late start at Malham. Did FAEE to warm up, felt easy. Went up most of Hands of Time, giving it a brief clean but sacked it off as it seemed too dirty to bother with on a quick hit. Moved over to Space Race (with Will H). Bolt to bolt felt fine, gave it a go and realised I hadn't worked the crux so again bolt to bolt. Will should have done it (next time youth), then I remembered how to climb and rested my way up it. First 7b+ for a couple of years, and my head is finally, properly getting back into being on the sharp end.
Sun - pottering around with the family for my youngests birthday.

Good week 

[shark]

11.2-4 Av 157.6 up 0.2lb

M. PM Warm up at Rubicon. Bumped into fatdoc and fatboyslimfast for first time in forever. Then to X to reopen account on Moffatrocity. Glad I’d written down sequence. Leisurely session. Did it from starting hold into JR in two sections

T.

W.

T. 8amish at Tor with Nick. Shouldn't have bothered. Hot and very humid. Two goes up on AM but no progress unsurprisingly

F. 9amish at Tor with Nick. Hot and humid again. Similar session to Thurs. Brought Tom out and he crushed Weedkiller despite dreadful conditions for his first 7B (having missed out 7A+)    Eve Felt I hadn't done enough at Tor so paid a visit to Foundry. Did a couple of easier Level2's then got shut on a pink in the middle of the steep section. Spent most of my time on that and finally got it

S.

S. PM Gardening Eve Figured connies would be better in evening and rewarded with X in good nick with low humidity making up for warmth. Warmed up trying JR but didnt get it. Three goes linking start into JR which is the best session I've probably had on it then at end of session managed to repeat JR despite spending ages trying to find a foothold 
   

Was a bit down in the dumps after the Tor sessions and I find hot humid weather gets me down anyway. This evening's session was a nice pick-me-up. Getting close on Anger Management, Ben's and Moffatrocity now. Going to make a big effort to try and knock them off this month.

Best go on Moffatrocity



Jericho Road (heelhook method)

[nai]

M - nowt
T - nowt, drove to Llanberis in the evening

W Cromlech - partner lead Foil then I got on Resurrection. Slow but steady up to the spike in the crack where I tried a few times to go right but couldn't suss it. After about half an hour and getting a bit paniced I broke out left, got through the crux ok then desperately grasped upwards on flat, but fortunately big, holds hoping for something positive which never arrived, how I stayed on I'll never know and it was with some relief that I reached the top and could clip the ab station.

Fella on top took some pictures (can't workout how to embed them):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8lJFB18JcBt0Hkrs2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TXvh29LfGShlIXSv2

Partner started gearing up for Right Wall but a light drizzle started, some guys just arrived phoned a friend in Betws who confirmed it was raining there and we headed down. Alas it came to nothing, drying as fast as it fell and soon stopped altogether.

Went bouldering in the evening, did a few easier things around roadside that I'd not done before and was getting cose to James Pond but sacked it off due to midges.

Th - Grochan - partner got on Quantun Jump, fafffed around a lot and eventually fell at the crux.  I had a look, faffed around a lot and lowered off. He got back on it and did it and I managed to second. Then I lead Stroll On which was great. Feet weren't interested in going back in rock shoes so called it a day

Fri - rained most of the day, went to RAC boulders in the evening and did a number of easy (<6B) problems then drove to Tremadog where I was intending to climb Saturday. On the way decided to go look at Super Crack but I was midged off after about 5 minutes.  Arrived to a heavy drizzle in Tremadog.  Hmm

Sat - Heavy drizzle had become light rain, spent an age checking forecasts and checking with partner before deciding to head Llandudno way.  Ended up at Llanddulas (unfortunately) where we did some pretty mediocre sport climbing although did do a quality 6b+ which I topped out just as rain began again. Checking forecasts confirmed had I sat tight in Tremadog we could currently be climbing lovely sunny walls.
Headed back to 'beris, brewed up and went bouldering, lovely evening in the pass; sunny, breezy and relatively quiet.
Flashed Tunnel Wall RH (6C+ in new guide/ felt 6C ish to me) and was making progress on LH but didn't like what it was doing to my skin; Left Hand Traverse (7A/6C) look feasible so had a go at that but failed where the guide suggested I would, worked that section out then did it.

Decided to leave this lovely scene and drive to SuperCrack again reasoning it couldn't possible be as midgey tonight. Maybe not quite, it was midgey but by walking away from the wall between attempts then dashing back in they were tollerable. That was until the fourth attempt when I managed to hit the top only to be completely envoloped by them. Didn't think I was going to be able to top out but just caught the jug behind the lip and grovelled over before emptying eyes and ears and legging it back to the Pass; 2x 40 minute drives, 2x 10 minute walks and 10 minutes of climbing to do 4 moves 

Back in the Pass I did Cross Fader (7A/6C) but failed on the easier RH variant finishing about 9pm.

Never wanted to leave: https://photos.app.goo.gl/lKNQ7YI0ojhCKgQR2


Sun - Milestone Buttress, first off went to the Pit area where I failed on a few things and bottled other above iffy landings. Switched to the lowball Ping (7A/6C?), which went in a few attempts then did Pit Start (6C+/6C) aftertaking some time to find the bottle for the easier top out. 
Completely flunked Harvey Oswald, which was the main reason for going there, couldn't get off the ground. 
Walking back there was someone trying Bombshell (6C+) so joined in with that for a while and managed to get it in a few goes then left for home.....

via Tremerchion. The aim was to do 36 Flags.  Did the stand version of Flag of Iron but then couldn't work out how I'd made the final match when I got there from the start of 36. I got one hand (the wrong one I think) in the finishing hold at least twice but just couldn't match, real shame. Had a few "one more try"s but was running late by and had to get back on the road, only arrived home an hour late....

Decent week, kind of fizzled out after such a strong start, more trad would have been nice but made the most of it with some fun bouldering. Can't be anything but happy though, that's my main trad aim of the year completed.  Hopefully get back on Powerplant this week and see if I can do the same on the main sport aim.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - power cleans 80% 5x7. Snatch pulls 25x4. Half pull ups 5x5.
Tue - rest.
Wed - contrast training: one static reach, two dynos x5. Brilliant. Metcon comlplex x6, brutal. Hot and humid.
Thu - climbing class. Hot, humid.
Fri - rest.
Sat - boxing bag. Messed with the timer and got my ass handed to me with two sets of 8 minutes instead of two sets of 4 minutes. Thrashed afterwards.
Sun - clean and press, 46 kg 5x7. Snatch pulls 40 kg 6x6.

[T_B]

Sat - Heavy drizzle had become light rain, spent an age checking forecasts and checking with partner before deciding to head Llandudno way.  Ended up at Llanddulas (unfortunately) where we did some pretty mediocre sport climbing although did do a quality 6b+ which I topped out just as rain began again. Checking forecasts confirmed had I sat tight in Tremadog we could currently be climbing lovely sunny walls.

It was weird. We were heading to the Pass from Betws and it turned to rain at Pen y Pass. Delightful at the RAC boulders. Tried again around midday and it still looked grim so went to Ogwen where we got completely frazzled come mid-afternoon.

We stopped at Pantymwym on the way home. Like a poorer version of the Tor Cave area.

[Wood FT]

Good effort on Resurrection Nai

[nai]

We stopped at Pantymwym on the way home. Like a poorer version of the Tor Cave area.

Almost went there but the lure of a 2 minute approach swayed it.  Tricky gate to get through though while paddling in cow slurry.

Tremerchion is limited but a gorgeous piece of rock.  Good job it's located where it is, can't imagine how trashed it would be if it wasn't so isolated.

[the_dom]

Mon: Lunchtime boulder at Boulderbar Vienna - very hot and humid and not a great session - followed by Crossfit in the afternoon. Hard work.

Tues: Some weights before Crossfit - got up to a new snatch PB (65kgs), followed by another endurance-focused Crossfit workout.

Wed: Another not-entirely psyched bouldering session at Boulderbar Vienna, playing on the newly-reset 45 board, followed by yet another Crossfit workout, involving clusters and rowing. Absolutely devastated afterwards.

Thurs: Public holiday in Vienna, so went to the gym and destroyed myself on the rowing machine and assault bike.

Fri: Really good session on the Moonboard and new problem set at Boulderbar Wienerberg. Surprised myself by flashing a 7B and 7B+ on the Moonboard. Psyche. Crossfit in the afternoon.

Sat: Crossfit in the morning, including lots of heavy deadlifts. Drinking in the afternoon.

Sun: Hangover and feel like I've been hit by a truck. Rest day.

[spidermonkey09]

Late one this week:

T - lots of rest after feeling cooked from the Lakes. Knee was hurting - IT band inflammation - so foam rolled a lot.

W - Depot. Pretty good session on the circuit board. Burned off by my housemate which stoked the fire a bit! Some good pump generated.

T - rest. More foam rolling. Knee a bit better but still hurt when going down stairs. Getting a bit concerned at this stage as Ceuse is going to necessitate plenty of walking!

F - Went to the Cliff after work. Horrific conditions. Went with lofty ambitions but ended up just doing Z Climb and getting utterly shut down on Western Front. I have no idea how to do that crux move but its going to have to go somehow as its the last of the big 3. Good effort from Tom doing Big Greeny in volcanic heat, those slopers felt horrendous. He also finished off with Western Front. My highlight was rescuing a dog which had got stuck in one of the crevices behind the crag; be warned if you take your idiot labrador there as some of those cracks go back and down a long way. Dog was very pleased to enter the land of the living again.

S - Malham. Horrendous humid midge fest, but didn't stop the power coming down as Rainshadow and Zoolook were ticked as I looked on. Tried Tremelo for the first time since Easter last year; probably would have got it done in slightly better conditions. Should go next session, its just the move at the top that feels hard. Knee really hurt.

S - Kilnsey. Slept 11 hours after rolling the shit out of the IT band. Did the job though as arrived at crag feeling fresh and with no pain. Pleased to see the new parking situation working so well; the walk across the fields is really nice. Please keep going everyone! Tried The Ashes and frothed about how good it was for most of the day. Worked out good sequence and got above the eyes on first redpoint. Also annoyingly split tip again.

This week; back to Kilnsey Thursday and out again Sunday. Not sure two days on is wise but might go to Trollers or Trow Saturday.

[Will Hunt]

Late one this week:

T - lots of rest after feeling cooked from the Lakes. Knee was hurting - IT band inflammation - so foam rolled a lot.

W - Depot. Pretty good session on the circuit board. Burned off by my housemate which stoked the fire a bit! Some good pump generated.

T - rest. More foam rolling. Knee a bit better but still hurt when going down stairs. Getting a bit concerned at this stage as Ceuse is going to necessitate plenty of walking!

F - Went to the Cliff after work. Horrific conditions. Went with lofty ambitions but ended up just doing Z Climb and getting utterly shut down on Western Front. I have no idea how to do that crux move but its going to have to go somehow as its the last of the big 3. Good effort from Tom doing Big Greeny in volcanic heat, those slopers felt horrendous. He also finished off with Western Front. My highlight was rescuing a dog which had got stuck in one of the crevices behind the crag; be warned if you take your idiot labrador there as some of those cracks go back and down a long way. Dog was very pleased to enter the land of the living again.

S - Malham. Horrendous humid midge fest, but didn't stop the power coming down as Rainshadow and Zoolook were ticked as I looked on. Tried Tremelo for the first time since Easter last year; probably would have got it done in slightly better conditions. Should go next session, its just the move at the top that feels hard. Knee really hurt.

S - Kilnsey. Slept 11 hours after rolling the shit out of the IT band. Did the job though as arrived at crag feeling fresh and with no pain. Pleased to see the new parking situation working so well; the walk across the fields is really nice. Please keep going everyone! Tried The Ashes and frothed about how good it was for most of the day. Worked out good sequence and got above the eyes on first redpoint. Also annoyingly split tip again.

This week; back to Kilnsey Thursday and out again Sunday. Not sure two days on is wise but might go to Trollers or Trow Saturday.

There's been a lot of Trow action on the dark wall lately. Road to Iraq and Ruin has been done a lot. Petulant Frenzy and one of the other 7c things has been done. Great time to get on this things.

I had yet another go at Western Front last night. For some reason it had never occurred to me to jam on the crux, I always just tried to crank off the sloper, which is nails and dumb. Don't know what your mitts are like but I've found that a fist jam, knuckles facing in, just down from the sloper works well for me. Psyched to go back and put it all together.
I can't think of many other E3s that so comprehensively spank so many people!

[teestub]

July this year will mark 60 years since the first ascent (solo). Austin was not fucking about!

[Will Hunt]

You're not kidding. And then Wall of Horrors three years later, also solo. I think he did fall off the crux of Western Front before doing it, mind.

[spidermonkey09]

July this year will mark 60 years since the first ascent (solo). Austin was not fucking about!

Obscene effort. Did Central Buttress last week and was in awe of Herford most of the way up. 1914...ridiculous.

[teestub]

I think he did fall off the crux of Western Front before doing it, mind.

Yes, and hit the boulder, something to think about next time you've got three pieces in in the same position!

[tomtom]

Isn't there a picture of someone famous* solo-ing it in wellies? (may have a different route)

*as in a famous/infamous climber....

[Steve R]

Just in case webbo doesn't turn up (who soloed it around the same time as Austin I beleive ) - come on punters, western front's the easiest of the big 3 with a little cragsmanship (ie. elementary jamming ability) renders it jug path.

[webbo]

I had yet another go at Western Front last night. For some reason it had never occurred to me to jam on the crux, I always just tried to crank off the sloper, which is nails and dumb. Don't know what your mitts are like but I've found that a fist jam, knuckles facing in, just down from the sloper works well for me. Psyched to go back and put it all together.
I can't think of many other E3s that so comprehensively spank so many people!
[/quote
You go off a left hand jam that you probably could belay off it’s that good.

[webbo]

Just in case webbo doesn't turn up (who soloed it around the same time as Austin I beleive ) - come on punters, western front's the easiest of the big 3 with a little cragsmanship (ie. elementary jamming ability) renders it jug path.

No I first led it in 1976 with a yo-yo. I did solo it at a later date as part of circuit of thirty routes above VS.

[cheque]

when the bransby had almscliffe wired he used to do western front, wall of horrors and big greeny in shit-covered wellies to warm up. He stopped one day when he decided it was "getting too silly"

[Will Hunt]

I thought Webbo did it, with a rope around his bollocks, around the time of the Reformation?

I've not been on Wall of Horrors yet. I seconded Big Greeny ages ago and thought it straightforward other than a mean rounded top out. I guess Western Front is OK when you know that you're doing, as I now do. It's not the friendliest of places to hang around figuring out where to get the jam in though. The sheer number of people, many of them good climbers, who have failed to get up or failed to onsight it is testament to it being a toughie.

[tomtom]

Just in case webbo doesn't turn up (who soloed it around the same time as Austin I beleive ) - come on punters, western front's the easiest of the big 3 with a little cragsmanship (ie. elementary jamming ability) renders it jug path.

I've watched you cruise up it one sunny evening IIRC Steve... very impressive.

[webbo]

There’s a rounded top out on Big Greenie, well you learn something everyday. You could just put a baggy jam in the horizontal break but then you might have to stop being a punter.
I haven’t got any bollocks Will, I had them removed to stop them catching on my Whillans harness.

[Steve R]

I've found that a fist jam, knuckles facing in, just down from the sloper works well.....
I guess Western Front is OK when you know that you're doing, as I now do.

 

[shark]

It’s piss. Stick to limestone - you are obviously rubbish on grit

[spidermonkey09]

When is the official downgrade to VS happening then?