[TobyD]

Thanks all, I feared after I posted that my comment might have been misinterpreted. Wholly agree that falling is very different psychologically from jumping and falls on RP are less likely to be scary. I sometimes try routes at the wall way too hard for me to force myself to fall trying to slap between holds if I am feeling nervous on a rope, which is often. Best of luck Will, see you out there!

[thekettle]

I'd second Obsession (top of the grade), Space Race and Taking the Space as Malham recommendations, if you're not keen on long falls New Dawn, Tremelo and 50 for 5 might be a bit intimidating, although they are 'friendly' lobs.
At Chapel Head Scar Wargames 7b/+, Phantom Zone 7b+/c and Tricky Pricky Ears 7b should fit the bill.
Plus Countach 7b at nearby Millside Scar for an esoteric good'un.

[Will Hunt]

Thanks for all the suggestions here and in various PMs. Had a day at Malham today and dogged up Space Race. I certainly learned a valuable lesson in properly inspecting the top section of things. Had a quick look at all the moves on dog and then on the redpoint go I fell off slapping into the finishing hold after doing that last bit sub optimally. It felt like a long fall and not at all scary since I was trying so hard up to the moment of the fall. What a great route!

[Andy F]

You should have had another go, I'm sure you'd have done it. It's a steep learning curve, the art of redpointing is one which takes time and effort.

On the massive plus side, you took your rests well, fought hard and went for it when it counted.

[TobyD]

Thanks for all the suggestions here and in various PMs. Had a day at Malham today and dogged up Space Race. I certainly learned a valuable lesson in properly inspecting the top section of things. Had a quick look at all the moves on dog and then on the redpoint go I fell off slapping into the finishing hold after doing that last bit sub optimally. It felt like a long fall and not at all scary since I was trying so hard up to the moment of the fall. What a great route!

A fine effort Will, you're not very much of a wuss if you took that lob ok. Funnily enough, that's exactly where I fell off when I tried to onsight it. You'll get it fine when you have another crack. Great route isn't it? 

[cheque]

It felt like a long fall and not at all scary since I was trying so hard up to the moment of the fall. What a great route!

Effort Will. As I’ve said on here before I feel more satisfied driving home when I’ve fallen off having had an honest fight with a route (redpoint or onsight) than I do if I’ve managed to redpoint something without taking a real fall off it, ie. working it on toprope or with a clipstick.

As I’ve also said before, I find jumping off useful in getting used to falling too. It removes the fear that makes me climb stiffly and timidly otherwise, like a reminder that it’s OK and it’s the thinking that you’re going to fall that’s the scary bit, not the fall itself. My subconscious forgets that very easily and jumping off is the most efficient way to remind it.

Now if everyone could stop posting in these threads that make me miss climbing that would be great. 

[TobyD]

It felt like a long fall and not at all scary since I was trying so hard up to the moment of the fall. What a great route!

Effort Will. As I’ve said on here before I feel more satisfied driving home when I’ve fallen off having had an honest fight with a route (redpoint or onsight) than I do if I’ve managed to redpoint something without taking a real fall off it, ie. working it on toprope or with a clipstick.

As I’ve also said before, I find jumping off useful in getting used to falling too. It removes the fear that makes me climb stiffly and timidly otherwise, like a reminder that it’s OK and it’s the thinking that you’re going to fall that’s the scary bit, not the fall itself. My subconscious forgets that very easily and jumping off is the most efficient way to remind it.

Now if everyone could stop posting in these threads that make me miss climbing that would be great. 

You'll get back to it Mike, with a mutha flipping big bag of psyche!

[SA Chris]

Yep, you'll bounce back (sorry!).

[Fiend]

Western Front at Almscliff? Safe enough to be sport, and soft for 7b I hear....

[Will Hunt]

Lololololol kuntttt lolololol
 

[Will Hunt]

In case anyone is arsed, I ticked off the first of the list tonight - Cruisin at Yew Cogar. I tried it over the weekend and ballsed up my first redpoint go after the crux by rushing and not placing a foot before doing the move up and left to the undercut flake thing near the top. 2nd redpoint go that day was doomed from the off as the sun was about to hit the wall and I was rushing again - didn't even manage the crux. Sweaty.
Much nicer conditions tonight. Dogged up to put the draws in and then belayed Rob and then redpointed. Felt a bit wobbly although as I pulled through the crux I knew it was going to go. Overgripped the top and crept up using every intermediate going.
Now the interesting bit. I belayed Rob on it for a bit and then decided to have another go on lead (there's not much else at the crag for the humble punter). This time it was a complete breeze - a combination of being very relaxed, a bit more warmed up, and using a completely different sequence on the crux which Rob had just tried. There is just so much to learn about redpointing!

[Andy F]

Well done Will. Isn't sport climbing easy when you do it right? Time for you to get on something hard, 7b+ is clearly too easy for you 💪