[teestub]

Top three boulder problems, UK
Tourniquet, Kentmere: Been trying this on and off for a few years, but decided to get stuck in this year, which involved driving away from Yorkshire in half decent grit connies. The confluence of a few decent weekends of weather in a row on which I could get away to climb, half decent conditions and some equally motivated partners helped hugely. The day I did it Bransby turned up and casually three finger dragged his way across it second go.

The problem has some pretty unique movement on it, and a range of sequences so that everyone seems to climb it slightly differently, not too shabby for a bad sequence on a 7a lip traverse! Additional beta: the bakery in Staveley is amazing.

Roof of a Baby Buddha, Maes Newyddion: A nice reminder that training does work. I had struggled to make headway last year mainly due to feeling weak on the crimps in the roof. A few rounds of structured fingerboarding in the interim really paid dividends on this one, and I think returning to something you've really struggled on previously and feeling stronger is one of the best feelings in climbing. A great find in a wonderful setting.

Grand Unification, Rolling Rock: One boulder set in a beautiful Lakes Valley, if the landing was a little wider it would be approaching perfection in that particular oeuvre. Climbing on my own on a beautiful summer day, took me a while to work out a suitable sequence, and I managed to pull it out the bag just as I was really starting to flag. As much a victory of mentality than anything else, as I have always struggled to maintain a positive outlook when climbing on my own.

Top three boulder problems, abroad (I could fill this section with 10's of problems from Squamish, all world class across the grades)
Mantra, Squamish: Saw this on the first day there and was very excited to try it. Checked out a few videos the night before, and spent the night dreaming about the potential correct sequence. Got pretty lucky on the big move and managed to do it first go, I don't often make a proper effort to flash things and I'm really glad I did on this occasion. As good as anything I have climbed anywhere, ever.

Worm World, Squamish: Classic first day at a new climbing area, say you'll have a jetlagged potter about doing a few easy classics, then end up, five hours of climbing later, trying one of your main earmarked problems for the trip. Excellent powerful climbing to a committing last hard move.

Pensees Cachees, Franchard Cuisiniere Good week in Font where we got very lucky with the weather among a load of mild dampness. Have always struggled on the high foot move on this, so it was great to finally get my toe in that pocket and stand up. I feel like I learn more about climbing in a week in Font than I do in the rest of the year combined, but unfortunately the knowledge and the movement patterns don't seem to take permanently.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Another year of successfully avoiding wearing a harness. Don't think I even did any boulder problems that used to get E grades!

[Doylo]

The day I did it Bransby turned up and casually three finger dragged his way across it second go.

That’s what he does.

[moose]

The day I did it Bransby turned up and casually three finger dragged his way across it second go.

That’s what he does.

... except when he does it first go.

[nai]

Top 3 boulders UK
Everything on the lovely Bovey slab - Swansong, Bovey Boys, Mornington Crescent, etc.  A lovely early morning hit,  woodpecker drumming and stag braying. A great find after being somewhat underwhelmed by the moors.

Incredible Shaking Man SS  - six years ago had to hurry away with the sea threatening to soak us after doing the crux a few times then repeatedly dropping the V2 stand section. Looked like the same thing was going to happen but scraped through with the sea threatening again.

Braichmelyn Arete SS - same day as ISM, Chris suggested we go for a look at some obscure block in Bethesda in the evening. I wasn't bothered really, tips were suffering but went along for a look intending to just do the *** V1 & V2.  Turns out the stand to this is an utterly joyous V1 and the sit is a technical masterpiece.

Top 3 Sport routes
Garderobe - what a great link, best of the grade at Moat.
Night Glue - another that was long term unfinished business.
eatswood Traverse - some routes are a described as a boulder on a rope so this is a route on a boulder and will have to go in here as there's not much else to work with. A good test of early season fitness before back issues scuppered things.

Top 3 trad routes
The Mau Mau - 20+ years dreaming of doing this, inspired by the description and Jim Jewel picture in the Paul Williams guide.
Manatese - while I was there, not as good as The Mau Mau but still merits inclusion.
Quasar- ok so I came off at the wet finger jam but it was in the bag otherwise. Got to include it as I only did these 3.

Spankings
Back issues which put a huge dent in fitness at the start of the season when everything was going so well
The Prow roof, barely managed to link any of it despite 2/3 attempts with plentiful beta

[Doylo]

This comes around too quick. We'll all be dead soon at this rate.
Was my best year for short boulder problems but didn't tick many routes.

Top three boulder problems, UK

The Tracks (8A). Llanberis Pass . - Fell off the last move in a sesh in 2016 but then turned into a total epic.  Finally went down during a good spell in April. Dingy cave but a great mountain problem.  Done in the same week as:
Will (8A). Mallory boulder - Great to do this with the FA and all round good guy Huffy.  Luckily i had a strong day and got lucky or might have had to do the uphill slog a few more times.  Total class and the V diff solo at the end makes it.
Manou (7C). Clogfaeni Y Llys. - We drove through the soaking hills optimistically and then slogged up to it with four pads.. I was nearly sick on arrival then proclaimed 'fuck that' when i saw the horrific landing under the final high arete (there's a big spikey boulder right under it).  After a few tentative goes Danny did the arete and then the whole problem.  I braved the arete then went from start.  Was a bit pumped when i got to the scary bit and my feet were slipping everywhere.  A real worldy. It would be 3 stars if it was made from Cromlech rock but it's some of the finest dolerite in Wales.

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Had about 4 mint days in Magic before it started fuckin down with snow.
Supernova (7C) - Just great fun especially in good nick. Had shut me down on previous trips.
Intermezzo (7C) - My first 7C flash in mint conditions in a deserted wood. Probably wouldn't get it in UK though.
Intermezzo Left (8A) - Decent fun.

Top three new routes/problems put up
Starkers (8b), Pigeons Cave.  Had been keen for this link up for a while but the top boulder problem had always seemed too powerful. I'd worked it out in 2016 so made quick progress this year and managed it in 5 sessions.  Love Pigeons.
Choke a Bloke (7C), the Gop.  Good to get a FA at the Gop and turned out to be reasonably tricky.
   
Top Spankings

Foxy Lady, Magic.  Was making good progress then exploded off the glassy holds and landed on the top of my arse on a rock. Could hardly get up for days and had a massive purple bruise on my arse.
Pigeons proj.  Bolted a sweet new line but was in a bit of a dip when i was trying it and took too long to work it out.  Just got the beta sorted then started a busy job and it rained all Autumn.  Prob not even that hard.
Sick happy ss. Went to it when i was fairly strong thinking it might go now but no. So burly.

[Ally Smith]

I wrote a version of this last week, but it disappeared whilst submitting...

Top 3 new routes/problems
1, Dicken's Cider, 8a+, Parisella's Cave. Newbie lip trip with fun heels, toes and kneebars.

2, I ain't no sponsored jelly bean, 8a/+, Kilnsey. Link-up consolation prize for my roof project being wet.
3, Conie Arbonnes, 7B, Conies Dale. Squeezed in eliminate at the home of Peak district soft-touches.


Top 3 boulder problems, UK
1, Broken Trigger, 8A, Parisella's cave - a link-up of 2 problems I was reasonably familiar with, but still put up a big fight

2, Ben's Roof, 7C, Raven Tor - a few years ago, I thought I'd never be able to pull on that pocket after ruining my ring finger. Came back and did the extension too

3, Hannibal Corner, 7B+, Tom's Cave. Despite the shitty location, this meant a lot to me as it was the first reasonably hard thing I did after A2&A3 strains in my index finger at Easter.

Top 3 sport routes, UK
1, 50 for 5/The Ashes, 8a+, Kilnsey. Great stamina climbing and (re-)taught me about the need for fast paced RP efforts
2, Milky bar Kid, 8a, Brean Down. I was shown some very efficient beta for the top roof and finally put to bed what had been a 6 year on/off project.
3, Cave Alternative, 8a+, Raven Tor. Not for the quality, but for kicking my ass repeatedly. I then decided to skip the shake-out and did it with relative ease - a lesson to remember for the future on this type of sustained bouldery territory.

Top 3 sport routes, overseas
1, El Remanso de las Mulas (P2), 8a+, Chulilla. Scraped my way up this 2nd RP after previously falling off 50cm short of the belay
2, Bricopaco, 7c+, Chulilla. Best flash/OS effort on a trip otherwise thwarted by wet conditions.
3, Planeta Namec, 7c+/8a, Chulilla. Free-styled the top groove on RP after a single working/failed OS go.

Top 3 trad routes/solos, UK
1, Gritstone Gorilla, E3 5c, St Tudnos. Sole trad lead of the year - completed with numb hands, meaning I didn't realise I was doing more damage to my injured ring finger 
2, Portfolio, HVS 5 (solo), Windgather. The same finger injury meant I explored venues I wouldn't have otherwise gone to - silver lining and all that
3, Matterhron Arete, Diff (solo), Winnat's Pass. A very enjoyable roadside jolly.

Top 3 spankings
1, Rockatrocity, 7C, Parisella's Cave. There's still one move I can't do in isolation, let alone on a link. V1/2 my arse Jack...
2, Kilnsey roof project, 8b+/c? Fecked finger kept me away when it was dry in May. Best efforts were doing it in 3 overlapping sections in late July, just before it got perma-wet.
3, (full) Sympathy in Choice, 8A, Raven Tor - can't for the life of me work out a way to get into the stand start position.

[Kingy]

3, (full) Sympathy in Choice, 8A, Raven Tor - can't for the life of me work out a way to get into the stand start position.

Have you tried Polish Dave's beta in this video?

[url]vimeo.com/92890389[url]

[remus]

Top three boulder problems, UK

Trigger Cut, 7something, cave of justice - Kneebarred the shit out of it but nice to get up something hard-ish in the cave in fairly quick time.

Zippattrocity, 7B+ stanage, - primo jamming and great to get it in good condition.

Lay-by Arete, 7B, slipstones - one of the few times this year where I've managed to work my way round grit tech rather than getting completely shut down by it.

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Biceps Mou, 7B, bas cuvier - Had been soundly shut down on this in years gone by but got on it at the end of a road trip and styled it out. So satisfying to get up something that felt so far away before.

Ghost in the Darkness, 7C+, Rocklands - felt totally improbable until it went on last go of the day. Amazing squeezing through a roof and a cool way to finish off the trip.

Question of Balance, 7B, Rocklands - completely infuriating right up until you do it, at which point it's brilliant! When the heel works it feels closer to 6B.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

End of the Affair, E8, Froggatt - Fuckin classic innit.

Jimi Hendrix Experience, E6, Uphill Quarry - Entertaining fight while pretty unfit. Good fun day freezing my ass off at the crag with bristol friends.

Crypt Trip, E6, Stanage - thought I was too short, turns out I was just unfit and/or shit at climbing. Satisfyingly easy on the day.

Top three sport routes UK

Despair, 7c+, Brean Down - esoteric brean nonsense at it's finest. Probably better than most of the hard sport lines on the main crag.

Hall of Mirrors, 7c, The Cuttings - Memorable fight up the sweaty groove on a hot evening.

Body Machine (cheaty way), 7c, Raven Tor - Notable for being a route at the tor that I've actually enjoyed.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Ticking the 'sexual' cave in a day, Cala Barques - big old day of smashing in loads of amazing dws lines. Running laps on a move that felt miles off last year (albeit when very off form) was satisfying.

Irak Attack, 8a+, Santa Linya - First of the grade so should probably go in here. In reality spent a lot of time waiting for a crucial tufa hold to dry out after which it went pretty quickly. Nice to get involved in a little redpoint siege though.

Cada uno por so Lado, 8a, Santa Linya - Succulent sequence that came together perfectly on the redpoint.

Top three new routes/problems put up

Didn't really put up anything of note, but an honorary mention for 'Hand to Gland Combat', a shit traverse with a name to match.

Top Spankings

Tomorrow I'll be gone, 7C, Rocklands - 4 or 5 sessions and more skin than I want to think about and Im still shit at techy vert crimping.

Noir Desir LH, 7B, Cuvier Rempart - Fucking problem! Despite seemingly good beta and a couple of sessions with excellent conditions it feels impossible to link and I don't understand why. Such amazing moves though! Could go next session or could drag on to eternity, at least it's amazing climbing.

L'Angle Ben's, Franchard Isatisis - Another 'I don't understand' font special. Really need to work on the old aretes.

Top Belay

Blomu R3, Santa Linya - Amazing to belay cave legend Henning on his successful redpoint at the end of a long siege. Felt like part of the cave clique, sat in the car park enjoying post-send veg curry.

[GazM]

Inspiring as ever. I love seeing the huge mix of world-traveller's big ticks and local's triumphs.  I'm very much in the latter camp.

Rather than writing this all twice, here's a link to a blog I just wrote about 2017's climbing highlights: http://gaz-softrock.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/2017.html

[Fiend]

Top 3 trad routes
The Mau Mau - 20+ years dreaming of doing this, inspired by the description and Jim Jewel picture in the Paul Williams guide.
Manatese - while I was there, not as good as The Mau Mau but still merits inclusion.

Good stuff. I thought Manatese was as hard as The Mau Mau due to the start. Great combo to do in a day

Top three four trad routes/soloes UK
Manikins of Horror, E2, Craig Arthur. Finally made it here after 23 years since school trips to World’s end. At the better end of British lime.
Supercharger, E2, Neist. Not often on Skye but have heard various unencouraging reports on this over the years. Ignore them - this is a towering stone cold classic.  Fully a hundred metres of vertical dolerite, immaculate cracks lower down then adventurous steeps higher up. I’ll be going back.

Good stuff. Did you do Digitation there?? I thought that was great for inland UK limestone. Supercharger is an amazing experience if only to look back and think "I did that" in a rather touristy way. There were some stimulating blocks on first belay IIRC...

[Johnny Brown]

We did yeah, I didn't think it was brilliant though. Bit shattered lower, higher up is classy rock but a touch contrived.

[haydn jones]

3, (full) Sympathy in Choice, 8A, Raven Tor - can't for the life of me work out a way to get into the stand start position.

Have you tried Polish Dave's beta in this video?

[url]vimeo.com/92890389[url]

I have a video of me doing it on my hard drive. Will upload it for you to see if I use any usfull beta

[Ally Smith]

Cheers Haydn - Happy new Year!

[cheque]

I say it every year but this is the coolest thread. I've given out lots of wad points. I didn't climb outside the UK so I've split it into Peak and non-Peak.

Top three boulder problems, Peak

Conan the Librarian 6b+, Mother Cap This was on my spankings list last year- every time I failed on Technical Master I went and failed on this afterwards. This year I only failed on TM once but I got really into climbing on the area above Millstone.   I wonder how many other librarians did this problem in 2017?

The Arete, 6c, Roaches Skyline I had my one of my best days of bouldering ever in April- it had been years since I'd done a problem of 6c or higher in a session and I did four even though it was too warm. Fell on my arse trying to flash this then just floated up it like Tyler fucking Landman.

Lurcher Direct, 6a+, Bell Hagg Since I moved close to the Hagg I tried this problem on every visit and found it absolutely nails- just couldn't fathom how it got such a low grade, but I kept persevering. Then I met another local there who showed me a positive sidepull that I'd somehow never noticed. I did it next go.

Top three boulder problems, non-Peak

The Pinch, 7a, Pleasley Vale I did four problems that get 7a in the guidebooks this year, this is the only one that's really 7a though. Last summer me and my mate Martyn worked out a kneebar way to do this- it gave Martyn a hole in his knee that lasted 6 months. This year we used a proper kneepad and I did it too- I felt like it didn't really count that way so I gave the proper way a go too. A couple of minutes later I'd done it. 

Apprentice Wall, 6c, Anston Stones Best 6c in Rotherham.

All the Hull slab problems,  Kay Nest I only went to Kay Nest to take photos but found it to be a really nice place. The Hull slab is a lovely bit of Northumberland-like rock with easy problems and a great view. 

Top three trad routes/soloes Peak

All grit HVSs.

Sorrell's Sorrow, HVS 5a, Curbar Wicked. Get involved.

Pisa Superdirect, HVS 5a, Shining Clough Great day on the high moors.

Alcove Crack, HVS 5a, New Mills Torrs Steep basic fun, awesome belay behind someone's garden fence.

Top three sport routes Peak

Martial Music, 7a+ Cheedale Cornice I reckon this is a great route. Unlike the other routes of this grade I did this year, the crux is at the top rather than the bottom. I tried it in 2015 (the last year I did any sport climbing)- it was a bit too hard for me then and I still had the bad habit of working routes on toprope. This year I got back on it thinking it would be fine and found that I was really scared and tense on it and it felt harder than ever. After a session chucking myself off from all the bits I felt uncomfortable on I did it with what I'm choosing to remember as the minimum of fuss. Felt so good to get the big flat hold after the crux- the happiest I've felt at the top of a route in a long time. 

The Corniceman, 7a+, Cheedale Cornice 2017 was all about the return to form for me and this was my first 7a+ for 2 years. Hard bouldery bottom, steady middle, spooky wet top. Nearly killed Haydn with a rotten tree branch at the belay.

Bream in Black, 7a, Embankment Obviously the Embankment's a bit 2nd Division but I had some great evenings there this summer. First session this felt nails but I got my own little way for the top and it felt steady.

Top two routes non-Peak (any genre)

Toe the Line, 6b+ Blacknor, Portland I had high hopes of onsighting at my hardest on my Dorset trip but it turned out to be stupidly hot every day. It had never occurred to me before how little shade there is at the crags down there or how poorly adapted I am to heat. So I ended up onsighting at my limit anyway, just on routes easier than I would normally warm up on. This is a vert wall that's like stuck-together shells with pockets. It's really good and felt desperate. Very nearly in the spanking section particularly as I got sunstroke while I climbed it.

South-east Buttress, VDiff, Roche Rock Ever since seeing pictures of this crag I've always wanted to visit it. Turns out just photograph it in a way that makes it look like it's bigger and more remote than it is. That suited me though as I only had a short time period on holiday with my girlfriend to visit. Great soloable routes on excellent granite-like rock.

Top Spankings

A Little Extra, 7a+, Raven Tor Didn't really get spanked by this, just didn't do it despite having loads of goes. Hopefully reading that Mastermind book will help me overcome my problem of falling off easy moves having done all the tough ones.

Bachelor's Left-hand, HVS 5b Hen Cloud After needing two goes on it's neighbour, Hen Cloud Eliminate, I thought this couldn't possibly be harder. First go I skidded down the wall on my knees (in shorts), second go blew it right before (what I later found out is) the first of many jugs.    Both are wicked routes though. In some perverse way I find failing on low-graded routes the most fun type of climbing.

I felt like I had a great year climbing cool hard routes but reading this back it sounds like I'm rubbish and just messed about on easy stuff. This year I'm going to "enjoy the process" less and get stuff done.

[petejh]

Top three boulder problems, UK
Eat It, Fairhead. Pure class. My first day exploring the Fairhead boulders and this got me keen as mustard to delve deeper.
Barely completed many other boulders in the UK, lots of almost dones!

Top three boulder problems, abroad
El Canto del Buho, Albarracin. Loved everything about this, the day, the crowd of psyched spanish and scandies, the highball moves and the location.
Zarzamora, Albarracin. Mint.
Beauty Rest, The Scalp, Wicklow. Pointed at this by the FA on a tour of the Scalp. Subtle moves down low into memorable and thankfully easier highball finish.
https://vimeo.com/112707150#t=150s

Top five three trad routes/soloes UK
Demetrius, E3, Ogwen Think this was my first trad route of the year and I went far too unprepared - new partner, went with his rack and didn't have a few of the pieces required. Wore sloppy shoes with poor edges. Sun was on the route. By halfway my calves were totally fucked, by three-quarters height at the crux I was run-out and almost peeling off through calf meltdown. Just about pulled it out of the bag facing a whipper most of the way back down the crag. 'Shit at the time/Brilliant afterwards.'
Magellan's Wall, E5, Rhoscolyn. Found this tough. Got to the crux finishing headwall and thought I'd just blat up it running it out, but got halfway up the headwall then encountered wet holds. Got pumped stupid down-climbing to a semi-rest and got even more pumped fiddling in a decent runner. Glad I did, as I was so boxed on the finish and I would have gone forever if I'd peeled.
Hells Kitchen, HVS (would be E1 in Wales), Fairhead. With ex-gf as her first multi-pitch HVS . Brilliant corner climbing with an out-there finish for the grade.
Red Wall, E2, Gogarth. A route I'd wanted to do for years. Another complacent day where we didn't really have the right gear - how do you forget to bring lots of large pieces on Red Wall? Blowing a hooollie on the cliff. Felt like a good adventure and much harder than it should have done, great!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Acheronte, WI3, Cogne. With ex-gf as her first ice-climb. 300 metres of water ice gully climbing, a looong day out and a great adventure for her if slightly nerve-wracking for me.
Circles, 7b+, Teverga. not a king line by any means but it was satisfying to work out the beta without any knowledge and send straight away on this bouldery route.
Paseo Vertical, 6b+, Teverga. Perfect wall/slab climbing.


Top three new routes/problems put up
Flying Colours, M10, Clogwyn Manod. 30 metres of gently overhanging tenuous pumpiness with an out-there traverse to the chains as your forearms give up the ghost and picks feel like they're going to pop off at any moment. Mega
Winter Prey,M11+. Clogwyn Manod. From visualising the line, to equiping, working out the moves and finally sending, all highly satisfying.
Mack Attack (watch yer back), 7a, The Diamond. Totally unique line and just fun!


Top three four new crags developed
Waterfoot
Mega crag x.
Mega island x.
The Allotment.
Some from here will end up travelling to mega island x, it's gonna be amazing.

Top Spankings
The drive to the Tor to try Mecca. A round trip of 4.5 to 5hrs from Llandudno each time to try a proj at my limit. What had seemed like a good idea in spring 2016 turned into a total motivation-killer by autumn of 2017. On the first drive over of last autumn I found myself at half-way just after Knutsford asking myself what the fuck I was doing this for, wasting my time on the road. I sacked it all off there and then, turned the car around and went home to have a great day in the cave! One day hopefully I'll be back, when I'm stronger and can do it more quickly - the route that is, not the drive.. In the meantime I'm picking stuff local to me for proj's at my limit.
Millennium Drive, Pillbox Wall. How many sessions on this?! I can do all the hardest climbing and get into Whiskey Bitch but keep falling off the Whisky Bitch finish, which I flashed years ago! And now can't seem to do WB even in isolation.. grr
Relationships.

[Luke Owens]

I barely did anything of merit on routes this year apart from one of my own. Bouldering was great so I'll do a top five, most of my outtings tend to come with some sort of epic for some reason.

Top five boulder problems, UK

King of Drunks (7A) - Wanted to do this since I first started climbing, had no chance on it a few years back. After getting close one early morning I returned to it after driving out late at night in the week and doing it at 10pm, a strange and atmospheric experience.



The Tench Sit-Start (7A+)- Got fully psyched on the new dolerite venues earlier in the year, got lost in head height brachen for a couple of hours with my son before finding it and suprised myself to do it quickly, great moves.



Super Crack (7A)- Again, an early morning dolerite outting. Didn't know what to expect from it but it is a gem of a problem, even getting eaten by midges didn't detract.



Corbyn Youth Surge (7A) - Once my NWB 2nd edition arrived this stood out as something I needed to go do. Took my then 17 month old daughter out for the day, dented my car on a fence on the way there. Expected a nice walk in to the bouldering but turned out to be bogs all the way, rained heavily when we got there, managed to wait about and sneak up this classic before it rained again!



Panty's Down (7A+) - Roof's are not my forte so I was made up to work out some techy toehook beta to get up this, came frustratingly close on the sit...see below.



Top new route put up

The Greenhouse Effect (7c)- After having a hard time with some personal stuff and basicly not doing any training for months in summer it was great to have something to pour all my energy into. Really had no expectation to do it this year as I hadn't trained but it all came together really well over a fair few sessions inching higher and higher. Big thanks to Pete Harrison for being psyched to get out up there and all the belays!



Top Spankings

Panty's Down Sit Start (7B) Almost managed my hardest tick in my complete antistyle, fell off going for the finishing jug loads then managed to get a flexor unit strain on the pocket in the roof and pulled something in my knee on the same session, basiclly never tried it after that, never been so close to doing something and not finished it off.

Being weak. Realisation that I am massively weak for the grade now everyone seems to know their max hang score. How I managed to get up some of the things I have, I don't know... Something I want to sort out this year.

The weather, the driving and my head - I've been caught out by bad conditions more times than I care to think about this year, I've drove hours to boulders to be shut down by either the weather or the fact I'm weak, I'm not sure why I do it sometimes. I get really psyched to drive ages to try something classic, get shut down on it and get annoyed at myself thinking I should of gone closer to home or I should of just not bothered until I knew I was stronger.

I think the bad sessions get to me more now I have 2 kids, I don't like to think the time I take away from them is wasted I guess. I attach alot of emotion to climbing and always expect a lot from myself, I need to learn that I can't be my best all the time. People who know me may find this a bit strange as I'm always really psyched and happy, but it's more of an inner battle. This has got better since taking my son out with me more now he's a bit older.

[Richie Crouch]

Top 3 UK problems:

1. A combo of Horror Arete/Cleopatra/Jerrys Arete (Bridestones). A wonderful session 10 years since my previous and only visit here. Retro flashed Horror Arete, flashed Cleopatra and worked out the subtlety on Jerry's Arete just in time to wobble up it with all energy fading and the darkness encroaching having slid off the top 15 mins earlier. Finished the day off with a good meal down the road.

2. McNab Sit (Lords Seat). After being bed/couch ridden with lightweight-drinkers-hangover-sickness the day before and missing the trip to Slipstones, I crawled out sheepishly and survived the hike up here. After taking a few goes to stand up properly into the undercut on the stand, I finally braved it and it felt fine, the sitter went first go and was a nice sequence of tension and committing to the moves to avoid further Punting. We climbed a good circuit of problems this day including gorgeous Geordies, Galaxy and spondonical. What an awesome setting and fantastic rock shapes/quality.

3. The Main Event (Benllech). An optimistic drive across Anglesey and walk in through heavy rain led to the pleasantly dry hidden gem that is the Main Event Roof. Described as the coastal answer to Jerrys Roof, the Main Event did climb very well indeed and with zero knowledge, we worked out a great burly sequence that I eventually used to scrape up with the last dregs of energy and a hearty bellow to frighten off the lone Seal watching us. Jack almost followed suit but faded fast and we agreed to return ASAP to get him up that and have a look at the scarier prosposition that goes left and up the chossy wall of death.

Top 3 Problems Abroad:

1. Alea Jacta Est (Roche aux oiseaux). A great easy looking 1 mover into some delicate tick tack balance. I had had a quick look in the full sun of summer a few years ago and came back with low expectations as it felt weird and miles away. The warm up went well with a quick 2nd go ascent of the 7B+ in the pit opposite, which helped warm up the pipe cleaners for some further undercutting action. A promising 1st slap was followed by sticking the crimps shield next go and onward to the summit! Slightly shocked, I managed to do another 2 laps on it and it may as well have been 6C. I thought the sitter would be a mere formality but the font 5 sit moves seemed to make the stand miles harder.. Spanked

2. Gasthaus Unterslag (Roche aux Sabots). After getting up the above problem, I managed a cheeky ascent of the hugely morpho Herrison problem hidden up on the hill and ran over to Gasthaus on my Billy no mates. I recall going with Mick to this a good few years back and he lanked it to the top off an undercut. After putting my token 2 pads down on the steep slope, I did the easy 6C version out right and cleaned just enough of the leaves and soil off the lip to make it grippable. I quickly learned that going again off the undercut would not be possible and worked out that I would have to yard through to the top with the lower hand, meaning a long flight feet first horizontally down the slope to be entangled in the dodgy web of old tree trunks and branches. A good chance of injury was paramount in my thoughts, so I practiced a jump and catch of the lip a few times before committing to the full thing and screaming with terror as I launched through and thankfully held on to the wild out swing. A cool end to the brief 5 days in font.

3. Megalight (rocher st germain). A scorching first day in font found us at this new venue. It felt desperate to jump up from a frogged position until it clicked to do a leg pogo. With this newly discovered sorcery, it all came together. What a cool move to a lovely sloper.

Top Route - UK

1. Phantom Rib (Clogwyn y Grochan). I purchased a new Sirocco helmet which was 15 years on from my first and with Bertie in tow, we closed the shop on time and raced up to the pass to tackle a quick multipitch. I shook, sweated, sketched and nearly got blown off the exposed rib by the fiersome gales blowing up the Pass but somehow we made it up and down. I was shocked by the lack of decent gear for a Vs 4c on that rib pitch. It was jolly good fun and we intend to do more in 2018.. Although I could do with a comfy pair of shoes, currently owning around 30 pairs that are all 2 sizes too small.

Top Spankings:

1. Megalithe (rocher st germain). Having romped up megalight, I fully expected to crush this having looked at the holds. After many close but no cigar slaps and multiple shoe changes, I had ran out of excuses and had to admit defeat (although it was sunny and 26 degrees )

2. Alex Jacta Est sit (Roche aux oiseaux). Having lapped the stand, the sit looked a formality. About 5 tries in, I had a meaty flapper from twisting my right fingers around on the undercut and the white flag was raised once again!

3. Big Kicks (Lords Seat). I thought it was my lucky day being light from the previous day's sickness and having quickly dispatched several classics up to this point. I basically got soaked and no where near to catching the top. Couldn't work out how to jump or which bit to jump to. One to go back for.

I really must climb more his year. Just went through ukc and had a mere 12 days out in the UK, 5 in Font and 1 trad route evening! Hopefully there is life in the old dog yet.

[Will Hunt]

3. Big Kicks (Lords Seat). I thought it was my lucky day being light from the previous day's sickness and having quickly dispatched several classics up to this point. I basically got soaked and no where near to catching the top. Couldn't work out how to jump or which bit to jump to. One to go back for.

Good post, lid. I have been similarly perplexed by Big Kicks, though have only tried it with a taped up finger, and I suspect you have to really pull on that right hand crimp.

Interesting to see you list Cleopatra. I looked at this briefly as I recognised it from videos and thought it was a bit log.

[tomtom]

This is a strange report to write for me - as in many ways I enjoy the failures as much (if not more?) than the successes..

So, I've divided it up a bit differently....

Lancs Quarries
I got stuck into some of the harder problems in the Wiltons, Brownstones and Ousels Nest. Enjoyed them all - and pleased with a series of ticks around Slipstream at the Wiltons, and enjoyed feeling close (but miles away) on Meeting Palms at Ousels




Conies Dale
Early in the season had some great sessions up there with Dolly, and later Shark and Plattsy. Did a few new things - the names of which I've all forgotten (its that sort of place!) but really enjoyed the climbing and the company (and THAT leap Plattsy!)

Rubicon
As much as I have been known to slag the place of, it often becomes my summer venue of choice - mainly due to convenience and relatively short travel time from Manchester. Had some good sessions there and was good to meet a load of other UKB'ers and other folk there over the season.

Having done most of the 7A/7A+'s I got stuck into a Bigger Splash Direct, The Press and Kudos. ABS(direct) went - the others didnt.. Kudos I may sack off as it just feels crappy - but the Press has lured me with micro progressions at every session. Even on my last session of the season where I just thought I'll have a play I nearly caught the crimp about 5 times (progression for me..).

Late on in the season and into winter I got stuck into the start of Caviar - and despite not having done the problem by the time the winter waters rose I was darned close (grabbing and not holding the final hold) and I've really enjoyed the tussle. It is a great problem for me (techy - body position climbing with a fair bit of brawl being more overhanging that it looks). White Bait (I think?) the 7A to the left of Millers Tale was a new tick (and great problem with some microbeta).


(what a bizarre problem - 1.5 moves yet strangely good!)

Open projects AKA Spankings to be..
Lots there -
I've yet to get on Blind Date since Jan/Feb and probably should some time...
Caviar. Once the water levels subside.. and the Press I'm looking forward to inching higher on...
Enjoyed recent account openings on Great White and Spring Voyage

[kingholmesy]

I think the bad sessions get to me more now I have 2 kids, I don't like to think the time I take away from them is wasted I guess.

I identify with this a lot.  I often feel guilty at choosing to be away from the kids at weekends climbing after being at work all week.  This is especially so if I have a crap session, when I question whether it is really worth it.  I try to justify it to myself on the grounds that if time climbing de-stresses me and makes me happy, hopefully I'm a better dad for it.

[36chambers]

Interesting to see you list Cleopatra. I looked at this briefly as I recognised it from videos and thought it was a bit log.

You should have pulled on, it's very good.

[Monolith]

Last filled this in 2008! 

Need to sort that out. Love reading through this thread!

[Richie Crouch]

Last filled this in 2008! 

Need to sort that out. Love reading through this thread!

Did you not scale any problems from start to finish at Sheep Pen last weekend? Or were you keeping it 2008 and just doing the crux move on people's projects followed by finding some microns to crank on? 

[Kingy]

Top three boulder problems, UK

Enter the Dragon V12, Tremeirchion
Drink Driving V12, Pill Box Wall
Ru's Traverse V11, Griff's Buttress

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Nothing

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Nothing

Top three sport routes UK

Something for Nothing 8c, Malham
True North 8c, Kilnsey
The Great Escape 8b+, Malham (A toss up between this and the excellent Cover to Cover 8b on the upper tier)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Musas Inquietantas 8a, El Chorro. This one's in the now banned Lower Gorge and we raided it on New Year's Day when all the guards were hungover presumably and the cameras were off. An immaculate wall climb and one I had tried unsuccessfully 16 years before
Porro 7c+, El Chorro
Honk Down 7c, El Chorro A nice onsight at the end of the day

Top three new routes/prolems put up

Nothing

Top Spankings

Dalliance 8b+ at Kilnsey. Pranged my shoulder in September after flipping upsidedown in a fall off the last move which set me back 3 weeks, then it got wet. Found a new, better and safer sequence but ran out of time

Just Do It 8c+, Smith Rock. Another round on this beast in October/ November just gone. Unfortunately, we went a little late in the season and it was pretty baltic. Still had my best ever effort and still psyched for a rematch.

West Side Story 7b+, Burbage West. Managed to get a small talus fracture at the start of last month falling off the last move of this problem when my right foot scrittled off the foothold out right standing up to get the top of the crag. (I have done it a few times before and possibly got a little complacent - its pretty bloody high up there!) Landed on a downwards sloping pad half stacked on top of a lower one due to the proximity of the boulder behind. Lesson, always sort your pads out securely if you are embarking on a highball! One month into the healing process but its quite a bad bone to break due to the poor blood supply and slow healing. Still, have now discovered the campus board!

[Duncan campbell]

Absolutely love reading through this thread, so impressive to see how good/psyched some people are!!



Top three boulder problems, UK

It’s been a fairly slim year of bouldering for me but have still done some good problems.

Piethe of Pith, 7A, Talfarach. Thin crimping up a high, vert wall - just my bag! Luckily had a big crew out for a mate’s birthday back in Jan so we padded it out well. Funny to shock everyone by flashing it.

Horror Arete, 6C, Bridestones. Wanted to do this for years and it’s didn’t disappoint. Was worried I wouldn’t be able to do it due to poor form but smashed it in 2nd go. The jump to get off the top is also brilliant. Hilarity ensued when one member of the party psyched himself out and ended up cragfast for a while.

Successor State, 6C+, Brimham. Gotta have a micro-route-turned-highball on the list. Took a while to figure out how I would do the lower crux arete as I wasn’t tall enough to use everyone else’s method. Then it’s all in the mind with a brilliant committing palm move to top out. Go and do this grit dudes!


Top three boulder problems, abroad

L’angle Allain, 5+, Cuvier rampart. Brilliant and desperate. Such a great day out. Doing the left hand side and just latching the top with the tip of two fingers was an ace feeling as I’m so bad at jumping.

Marie Rose, 6a bas Cuvier. Brilliant wall climb, and chuffed to not slip off. Don’t believe for a second that ondra fell off it though. Must be some bullshit BD film plot...?

La place Roja, 7A, albarracin. Soft but a great bit of fierce crimping.


Top three trad E5s

This is really hard as I did loads of amazing E5s in 2017

Darkinbad the Brightdayler, Pentire. Probably the E5 I most wanted to do this year. Just amazing, raced up the start as I was worried the sun was coming round and it was going to get hot. Fortunately it clouded over but I found the rest really taxing and absorbing. Going up to the roof felt really quite bold. That top crack was good too, so nearly off. Got to the belay with a mixture of elation and “thank fuck!” Had done Eroica as a (bad choice) warm-up. Such a great day with a great partner. The ultimate combo of a Littlejohn FA and a Fawcett FFA make it even more special.

Run Fast, Run Free, Gogarth. Really enjoyed this one, Although it’s only got a couple of short hard sections and a lot of technically steady climbing, it is really pumpy. Fortunately I was fit enough to deal with this and not get flustered. Great name and great climbing to boot.

White Heat, Pembroke. Tried to do this in 2016 but the sea was too rough and was hitting the bottom of the route. Had an absolute blast doing it, especially exciting to push on past the mid-crux runner as it would be really hard to place. I think the fall would be safe but very long. Plus it’s a Whillance route - not often you get to do those!

Honourable mentions;

Tales of Yankee Power and Supersonic - have wanted to do these for ages and was good to get some tradding done when much of the rest of the country was wet.

Get Some In - Pembroke mega classic

Doubting Thomas, Malham - desperate on first acquaintance Good to redpoint.


Top three trad non-E5s

Route X E4 5c, Jersey. Upon returning from Spain there was no structures work so, desperate for money I agreed to go to Jersey for a month of geo. Got in touch with the Jersey climbing club who were amazing and let me lead whatever I wanted. Toss up between this or Hot Tuna as the best route I did on the island. This was long, sustained, gently over hanging face climbing on granite. Hot tuna being bold slab climbing at the same grade. Both of these were totally onsight as nobody does the harder routes much out there. Very keen to go back post birdban for the Pinnacle routes.

Byzantium, E4 6a, Craig Doris. Again one that’s been on the list for a good while. Only had a single rack of cams which I had to ration to allow me to protect the whole route adequately. Two sets would have been nicer, especially for the bit above the first break, where I essentially had only one cam and a tricam between me and the ground. Littlejohn does it again.

Slender Loris, E4 6a, Malham. Discounted ever trad climbing at Malham but this is amazing. Unbelievably pumpy at the top.

Honourable mentions;

Resurrection, E4, Cromlech. Fantastic. Why I hadn’t done this before is beyond me.

Wall of Horrors, E3, Almscliff. Found this nails but so so good.

Pan, E4, Pembroke. Brilliant to do this and then maybe better to belay a friend on it as her first E4.


Top three sport routes UK

L’ob Session, 7c+, Malham. Love the climbing up here and was chuffed with how quick this came together. Did it 3rd session having had the second written off due to no cloud cover. The low crux is grim but the upper groove is incredible!

Body Machine (from the break), 7c, Raven Tor. Have tried this sporadically over the last few years but never enough to actually do it. This year I must just be a lot better as I did it third go up having not been on it for over a year. Ron is the man!

Night Glue, 7a+, LPT. Brilliant, tried years ago and should have retro-flashed but didn’t. No time for a second go as tide was very much encroaching. Did it putting the clips in the next day. Such good varied climbing.


Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Les Rivieres Pourpres, 7b/+, Taghia. Certainly one of the best routes I’ve ever done and with a great partner (except for using quickdraws in belays ). with 8 pitches of climbing between 7a and 7b/+ including 3 7bs and 3 7a+ plus a load of other pitches on a 500m route I was really chuffed to not fall off especially as I had a bit of a dodgy stomach. 14 hours after leaving the gate we were back. Would have been a bit quicker had we not been behind some Germans but all’s well that ends well. Amazing how sustained the quality is as well.

Pren Nota, 8a, Siurana. Wanted to try this before heading out and it ended up being my first of the grade. Brilliant sustained and varied climbing. The top is amazing especially as I took some massive lobs skipping the last clip. Saw Margo do la rambla from the ledge too which was cool

Moon Safari, 7c/+, Chulilla. Fudged my way up it 2nd go having dogged it a couple of days before to put my clips in. Bridging up those tufas is really special.

Honourable mentions;

Barrieros, 7c, Chulilla. Gave it a good onsight go and just scraped up it next time up. Really good climbing

Segui Iluitan, 7b, Chulilla. So good, every section is totally different, it’s soft at the grade and 40m long.

La muerte del sponsor, 7b+, siurana, great to onsight this, another dream tick.


Top Near misses/spankings. I’ll let you decide which is a spanking and which is a near miss.

Orange Robe Burning, E6 6b, Pembroke. Blimey, worked hard all the way to get up this as it was unchalked. Had no idea where I was aiming on the top crux. By the time I was up there a few mates had gathered at the top to watch. I fully went for it, pulling on nothing-holds with them all screaming that I was nearly there before my hand popped with my other an inch from the Good hold at the end of the hard climbing. Very proud of this effort, probably one of my best to date.

Energia positive, 7c+,terradets. Spent 5 days falling off at th very top of this route, on my best effort I meat hooked the finishing jug with both hands, got a foot over the rooflette and fell off as I tried to stand up. Had a sense of humour failure on this.

Morrir de Exit, 7c, Chulilla. Was climbing really well on my onsight go, then missed a hold and climbed too far up the crack and couldn’t get to where I wanted to. Fell off down climbing. Scraped up it next go. Doh!

Such a great year despite being shot at bouldering in the autumn/winter - here’s to hoping 2018 will be really good too!