Quote from: gme on March 27, 2017, 11:29:58 amI have been campusing and deadhanging in arelitivly organised manner for two and a half weeks and can hang bottom bm1k edges with 30kg fed for 10secs. Need to take off 12 kg to hang the bottom edge on the 2k with one hand Had a double take there. Presumably you did mean have 12kg of pulley weight assistance rather than take 12kg off the 30kg (ie 18kg) to hang one-handed.
I have been campusing and deadhanging in arelitivly organised manner for two and a half weeks and can hang bottom bm1k edges with 30kg fed for 10secs. Need to take off 12 kg to hang the bottom edge on the 2k with one hand
I am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting.
Quote from: gme on March 27, 2017, 11:29:58 amI am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting. Amen to that. I'm out of shape at the minute but can pull some ok max hang numbers on the fingerboard, (+45kg at 62kg bw on 14mm) relative to my grade (three 7Bs in a lifetime) but:1. I am truly a shit climber with close to no technique or skill or flexibility.2. My deadhang form *was* pretty shit - shoulders unengaged and stuff so maybe my numbers don't count. Certainly, one arm strength was lacking because of this. Personal experience, the FB-grit carry over is very poor compared to FB-lime. You must be doing something really wrong. Lime 7Bs are generally about finger strength. Technique is pretty secondary.
You must be doing something really wrong.
S: Lovely day, first dry and non-freezing morning out on the bike, the Isle is calling to you nibs...
Quote from: gme on March 27, 2017, 11:29:58 amI am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting. Deadhang strength also doesn't measure other aspects of applied real climbing finger strength related to rate of force development, contact strength and varied hold types. These things are typically gained by actually climbing. Its not solely a case of shit technique and low aspirations.
I am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting. I have been campusing and deadhanging in arelitivly organised manner for two and a half weeks and can hang bottom bm1k edges with 30kg fed for 10secs. Need to take off 12 kg to hang the bottom edge on the 2k with one hand and can't lock off one armed on a bar. Yet can pretty consistently do 7A+ 7B in a session on moonboard and outside. Lots on here seem to be doing much harder things on beastmakers but targeting 7A/B problems. Surely if you can one arm hang the bottom rung of bm2k without assistance you can boulder 8A ish. I am questioning this as I am still not a total believer in hangs and struggle to stay focused on them long enough to see if they work. Have managed to do 6 sessions now and seeing hang improvements. Just hoping it transfers to the rock.
Quote from: shark on March 27, 2017, 12:48:28 pm Quote from: gme on March 27, 2017, 11:29:58 amI am constantly amazed by the disparity between what people can deadhang and the grades they are doing/targeting. Deadhang strength also doesn't measure other aspects of applied real climbing finger strength related to rate of force development, contact strength and varied hold types. These things are typically gained by actually climbing. Its not solely a case of shit technique and low aspirations.You have already got to technical for me. Does deadhanging improve all of the other things or just not measure them. If it does not improve them all and only makes you better at hanging off wood what advantage is there to bouldering.I am just trying to get rid of doubts i have about whether i should carry on doing it as its so boring. I am obviously totally shit at it compared to most on here so my rational is that if i get much better at it my climbing will improve.
Yes that is the standard according to Tom Randall. He says the correlation is 100-110% of BW for 8A.
I am just trying to get rid of doubts i have about whether i should carry on doing it as its so boring.
Folk, me included, tend to assume they need more strength, flexibility, endurance, whatever, all the time but how many actually come to the conclusion that they have all the attributes but what if they're just not very good at rock climbing.
Gav - I think there are different ways to target fingers, The Motherboard (and my homeboard) are basically dynamic deadhanging and are more fun
I am not very good at sitting about so find the 3 mins rest pretty hard to stick to.
Its utterly boring. 10 secs effort every 3-5 minutes??