[Durbs]

The Comp
I feel mildly smug about my prediction. Shauna was a class above everyone else. Whether this was experience, confidence or just power & reading skills - just dominated.
Hopefully, for interest, the other comps are a little closer.

For men, a minor repeat of CWIF with perhaps a too few tops - though I think we would've seen M1 get done in 4+. Individually the problems were exciting though and Rei getting M4 was ace.

Also thought the commentators were better, having three was good (though a few teething problems interupting each other), but overall the production was sound.
One classic glitch when two athletes were heading to the top so they cut away to the crowd...

The Situation
The whole thing stinks. If the above is true, and FloSports were in talks for a year, why was it not mentioned at the Plenery Assembly and how come none of the athletes new about it?

"FloSports came to us" is not a good enough reason not to investigate other suppliers or other options.

If it's not backhanders, it's certainly poor governance.

[fatneck]

Great display from Shauna 

Re the 4 minute rule, I think it may work!? I agree the suspense created by having a competitor on the wall after the 4 minutes were up was great and I'm not saying the new rule is better but it certainly adds a different kind of pressure. Will be interesting to see how competitors adapt over the course of the season (assuming we can watch any more of it that is...)

[BID]

The Comp
I feel mildly smug about my prediction. Shauna was a class above everyone else. Whether this was experience, confidence or just power & reading skills - just dominated.
Hopefully, for interest, the other comps are a little closer.

For men, a minor repeat of CWIF with perhaps a too few tops - though I think we would've seen M1 get done in 4+. Individually the problems were exciting though and Rei getting M4 was ace.

Also thought the commentators were better, having three was good (though a few teething problems interupting each other), but overall the production was sound.
One classic glitch when two athletes were heading to the top so they cut away to the crowd...

I bow to your predictions 

[Durbs]

I bow to your predictions 

Ha, one down - five to go... And my Male prediction didn't even make semi's

[GraemeA]

For men, a minor repeat of CWIF with perhaps a too few tops - though I think we would've seen M1 get done in 4+. Individually the problems were exciting though and Rei getting M4 was ace.

I disagree about M1, it was just too hard. Probably compounded by the conditions (see below).

And I reckon Rei might have blown M4 with 4+ as he would have moved slower and greased off.

Problem was the massive temperature and humidity change that occurred once you add a couple of thousand people in the building plus a massive lighting rig. Not sure how you can re-create competition conditions though without spending an awful lot - Meiringen comp is inside a tennis centre, turning the air con up for the whole of the setting would cost a LOT of cash, especially when you factor in lost 'earnings'.

[Fiend]

Liked the comp especially the girls. Problems seemed cool and varied. Didn't like the 4min rule at all, less fun to spectate, less tactical resting, too much rushing at the end.

Surely a couple of powerful fans blowing at the currently climbed problems would help the conditions??

[Durbs]

Liked the comp especially the girls. Problems seemed cool and varied. Didn't like the 4min rule at all, less fun to spectate, less tactical resting, too much rushing at the end.

Surely a couple of powerful fans blowing at the currently climbed problems would help the conditions??

Wonder if Dyson or another wealthy fan provider fancy sponsoring the series...
All those walls and home woodys requiring adequate cooling - ripe for a mutually beneficial advertising stream.

[andy popp]

Liked the comp especially the girls women.

[fatneck]

 

[Muenchener]

Liked the comp especially the girls women.

I found Miho's new hairdo rather fetching.

[Durbs]

Controversy (and hair cuts) aside - some other thoughts.

Michaela Tracy came 7th! Great stuff.
Akiyo had a shocker, and IMHO didn't look that great last year either
Anna Stoehr had an even bigger shocker
Sierra Blair-Coyle beat Anna, Akiyo, Meagan and Leah Crane

The men are all over the place

An interesting observation from my other half which I'll float past you all for your thoughts:

When discussing the men, it tends to be they're regarded (rightly or wrongly) as specialists; Chon is insane at dynamic problems, Rustam has the crimping strength of a monster, Jan's great with pure power etc.

For the women, Pooch aside (and her slabs had improved loads last year), this doesn't happen so much, and they're generally more all-round climbers. It's rare to say "this problem will really suit X". Possibly Shauna on slabs (grit background?) being another exception, though currently all problems seem to suit her.

So is it that:
A) Men specialise to their strengths,
B) Their strengths/weaknesses are more pronounced
C) It's a matter of perception
D) It's a matter of gender bias
E) That would be an ecumenical matter
F) This doesn't exist really
G) Shut up and go climbing?

[fried]

My only prediction is that every event will have 6 different men in the finals....although my fantasy ladys' team is doing rather well.

[Muenchener]

G) is not looking like a viable option for Easter weeekend over here, sadly.

[Fiend]

I had written a lengthy diatribe about Petra's grin and guns, Miho's lack of Spongebob chalkbag (surely a bigger upset than anything?!), how chirpy the girls women ladies females generally look and other things that would no doubt have been mis-construed as trivial and sexist or whatever the cool thing to get knickers in a twist about currently is, but then deleted it. I have both a lot of interest and enthusiasm in their climbing in the competitions and a personal appreciation of how charming some of them come across, that's probably horribly wrong.

Durbs, not sure about Shauna being favoured on slabs because she always looks brutally strong too (in this, e.g. W1, and especially in previous years' rounds).

[Durbs]

Agreed - she doesn't really seem to have a weakness...

But more generally, any thoughts on the comparison between the Ruddy Lads and the Dolly Birds?

[andy popp]

I have both a lot of interest and enthusiasm in their climbing in the competitions and a personal appreciation of how charming some of them come across, that's probably horribly wrong.

No, of course it isn't.

[GraemeA]

IFSC Official Statement released 20 minutes ago following a virtual Exec Board meeting.

"

It was made a mistake and we apologize for that.

The live streaming for IFSC will remain free of charge, the same as it was at the 1st World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland and in previous years.

The deal - despite having been announced - has not been signed and thus has not been concluded.

Any possible future variation of this policy will be discussed inside the IFSC and subject to the approval of our key stakeholders.

Let's keep climbing together."

Well done for seeing sense and listening.

[monkoffunk]

Wow that is quite surprising! I was fairly cynical about the whole thing.

[Fiend]

Good stuff.

Graeme, what's the reasoning behind the new 4 min rule, out of interest?

[GraemeA]

To have a max time for finals.

[BID]

IFSC Official Statement released 20 minutes ago following a virtual Exec Board meeting.

"

It was made a mistake and we apologize for that.

The live streaming for IFSC will remain free of charge, the same as it was at the 1st World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland and in previous years.

The deal - despite having been announced - has not been signed and thus has not been concluded.

Any possible future variation of this policy will be discussed inside the IFSC and subject to the approval of our key stakeholders.

Let's keep climbing together."

Well done for seeing sense and listening.

Well bugger me, that was unexpected. I'd love to know exactly what happened start to finish but that may be asking a bit much.

[fatneck]

 

Thanks guys!!

[Fiend]

To have a max time for finals.

Hmmmmm. The 4+ never seemed to go that far over. 24 mins (+1min x 6 competitors x 4 blocs) would be a likely maximum with 4+, for every problem with some slab rest a climber could add 2 mins onto the time there would be 3 burl problems where they might be adding 20 seconds if that. I don't think it's worth saving that little time overall for the reduced fun watching (although if the climbers like the squashed in rush then it's up to them I guess?)

[alx]

Graeme, did Flo's offer or impending deal swing on needing to implement the 4min rule?

[lagerstarfish]

To have a max time for finals.

to ensure that bouldering is superior to tennis?