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IFSC 2017 (Read 91677 times)

jwi

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#325 Re: IFSC 2017
August 21, 2017, 03:22:40 pm
Well deserved win for Jan Hojer. The stream had a fairly knowledgeable pundit, some dude called Alex, I think.

GraemeA

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#326 Re: IFSC 2017
August 21, 2017, 05:36:10 pm
Well deserved win for Jan Hojer. The stream had a fairly knowledgeable pundit, some dude called Alex, I think.

I thought she was called Anna  :P

jwi

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#327 Re: IFSC 2017
August 21, 2017, 05:37:48 pm
Skipped past the women's final. Not enough Japanese to keep my interest up

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Muenchener

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#328 Re: IFSC 2017
August 21, 2017, 05:51:14 pm
At least Anna knows what she's talking about with regard to competing in world cup finals. Unlike jwi's punter  :P

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#329 Re: IFSC 2017
August 23, 2017, 12:39:44 pm
Ondra, Megos and Ashima all on the start list for the Lead Cup in Arco this Friday.

Fiend

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#330 Re: IFSC 2017
August 24, 2017, 01:18:21 pm
Question for those who know:

On separate, taped starting holds, what part of what limbs have to be on or touching the holds?? Are you allowed to have the bulk of a hand sharing a single tagged hold with another hand, but with some part of the hand touching another requisite tagged hold? (or arm or whatever).

I did a problem at Eden Rock yesterday (Blue #2 just left of cave) starting off two small touching triangular volumes, and found the only way I could pull on was with one hand fully cupping the left volume, and my other squeezing the join of both volumes at the top (fingers also on the left volume, palm (and a lot of forearm) on the right hand volume), and wondered if this was legit??

If it is hands and they have to be kept separate for separate tagged holds, are you allowed to use the rest of the arm to "match" a single tagged hold?

Yours curiously,
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Muenchener

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#331 Re: IFSC 2017
August 26, 2017, 12:04:13 pm
Molly Thompson-Smith in the final at Arco.

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#332 Re: IFSC 2017
August 26, 2017, 11:17:57 pm
Finals setting looked a bit odd.

jwi

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#333 Re: IFSC 2017
August 27, 2017, 04:07:21 pm
Finals setting looked a bit odd.
The six minutes rule did clearly not work.

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GraemeA

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#334 Re: IFSC 2017
August 27, 2017, 09:52:34 pm
Finals setting looked a bit odd.
The six minutes rule did clearly not work.

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Or alternatively, the 6 minute rule does not work at a venue that is approx 20m high and was built when comps had 12+ minute time limits.

Muenchener

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#335 Re: IFSC 2017
August 27, 2017, 10:12:00 pm
And therefore comps should be limited to little stunted venues in order to make a damaging and unpopular rule change look ok?

Seems to be an implication of what you are saying.

Fiend

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#336 Re: IFSC 2017
August 28, 2017, 11:52:49 am
Yo Graeme any verdict on my rules query? I did read the IFSC rulesheet but couldn't find it?

Also, a nice interview with Janja here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71243/janja_garnbret , she sounds very cool and on the ball.

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#337 Re: IFSC 2017
August 29, 2017, 10:41:44 pm
Definitely didn't like the 6 minute rule. It basically meant more competitors squeezed into a "shorter" area of holds (if that makes sense), and less exciting to see where people got to, i.e. missing out on potentially cool climbing higher up. Jain certainly looked like she could keep going - getting timed off the wall is not an entertaining way to finish. I thought the setting was quite cool tho, some good moves especially on the womens.

Commentary and guest commentators have been top-notch.

For the Bouldering, Womens at Munich had some great moments. Sasha coming out of nowhere on the slab, and Janja's balletic finish on the bridging one. Mens had some entertaining problems except the Jan lankfest on 2.

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#338 Re: IFSC 2017
August 31, 2017, 11:33:03 pm
I imagine the introduction of the 6min rule was purely driven by people trying to make the sport more media friendly. Well congratulations for ruining it in the process. One of the reasons why I didn't jump for joy when climbing got into the Olympics, the other being the combined clown show. 
 
Seeing people like Jain Kim and Ondra finding ingenious rests in the Arco comp is part of the attraction for me.

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wMickey

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#339 Re: IFSC 2017
September 01, 2017, 11:07:32 am
Yo Graeme any verdict on my rules query? I did read the IFSC rulesheet but couldn't find it?


I'm not an IFSC setter so not sure on the WC rules, but at Eden Rock the way you describe is fine. The most usual place you find that is when you set a screw on pinch on an arete with two screw ons; we'll tag one of them but you're allowed to touch both at the same time. The way you started the blue problem is valid, well done :-)

gme

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#340 Re: IFSC 2017
September 10, 2017, 09:37:47 am
I watched some of the combined comp yesterday and thought it was great. Totally worked and you end up with the best allround climber winning 

As long as the entry criteria for the olympics is based on the best combined event climbers rather than being selected from the best individuals from each of the disciplines like was originally assumed it will be great.

A bit like the decathlon I guess.

jwi

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#341 Re: IFSC 2017
September 10, 2017, 10:57:41 am
^I agree. Watched the junior's combined. Was entertained.

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#342 Re: IFSC 2017
September 21, 2017, 09:29:53 am
Ratho IFSC this weekend HYPE! If it's damp I will be glued to it live on Sunday.

jwi

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#343 Re: IFSC 2017
September 25, 2017, 08:09:02 pm
Excellent competition. When Romain Desgranges falls off and doesn't even scream & kick the wall... you know that the route is pretty desperate! Also: the six minute rule doesn't work for the women

GraemeA

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#344 Re: IFSC 2017
November 12, 2017, 12:00:37 pm
So the last Lead WC of the year concludes today. And Shauna and Molly are in the final. Come on!

(It starts at 4pm and if the stream doesn't work you can always try www.olympicchannel.com )

SA Chris

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#345 Re: IFSC 2017
November 24, 2017, 04:51:25 pm
Not IFSC, but Legends Only is being streamed tomorrow;

http://lasportivalegendsonly.com/

 

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