[remus]

Good effort pn the LQP project Ian! And glad to hear someone else found Oesophagus hard!

[ghisino]

Top bloc
Pure line - one of the best roof cracks in france?
Otherwise not a very bouldery year!

Top routes:
L'ami de tout le monde, céüse. First 8b, a route that had a bit of aura for me since belaying a strong friend on it many years ago, three trips over one year to manage it...most satisfyong climb so far!

Pure finger, annot. Very nice and very thin splitter with a dyno finish.

Alix punk des vergons, Verdon. Not mega hard, especially for verdon, but still epic: climbed it mid august after 3 weeks off, no skin and split my middle finger's tip on the 6th pitch (out of 10). Abseiling at that point would be tricky, i had no tape and still wanted to freeclimb the route (although in alternate lead style)


Top spanking
Surely one try on Duel where i was nail-crimping and my nails started to bend backwards...a bleedy and messy affair, although not as painful as it sounds (it was freezing cold...)

[Fiend]

I retreated off it and Nick took over and led it. There is a hidden friend placement mentioned in one of the guides which I only found when following it. Did you find it?

Sorry to read that you had a bad trip to Margalef despite good preparation.

Hmmm, can't recall anything being particularly obscurely hidden, but I do hunt around very diligently for gear so probably got it in. I remember the crux suddenly all starting to feel distinctly committing and uphill after a fairly reassuring start. Not a soft warm-up!

Margalef, well, it would have been a better time if I hadn't sulked so much!! Partly my fault for being too focused with pushing myself in an area which is totally unsuitable for consistent onsight performance. i wrote up some climbs recently and for a F6c climber I did some ace stuff...

[Dolly]

Top three UK problems

Too Drunk at The Roaches
The Arete in Matlock quarries
Simple start at Mynydd y Graig. As much for the situation and the solitude as for the climbing

Top three problems abroad
Apea Horete at Kylamalampi, Finland. Worth 6c of anyone's money


Neekeriporvari 7a at Murronkivvi, Finland



Didnt do any routes apart from one afternoon in the bluebells at Stoney West doing easy stuff -  and maybe soloing Microbe at Stanage if that counts ?

[i_a_coops]

Blockhead  can't believe this doesn't get done, probably the best pitch I've done in the UK. Has it even had a second ascent? Would be really interested to know!

What makes you say this Ian? Would be surprised if Caff hadn't done it, or some other folk either back in the day or more recently. Think I saw a pic of Dave Rudkin on it on Facebook at some point. Whether he did it or not I don't know.

There's a comment in the Ground Up guide saying that it hadn't been repeated as of 2012. Wouldn't surprise me at all if Caff had done it since though!

[kingholmesy]

I also love this thread each year.

Best multi-pitch frightener

Terry, an unknown E5 up on the Exmoor coast:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=426323

An esoteric gem, and quite possibly the second ascent.  Climbed after only a couple of hours sleep due to the kids playing up the night before.  Cut-off by the incoming tide shortly after starting the first pitch.  Scary rock and wild climbing - absolutely brilliant.  Get to it people!

An honourable mention in this category also goes to Vagabond at Tintagel.

Best single pitch trad route

Pacemaker at Sharpnose, because its one I've been saving for ages at one of my favourite crags and I only just scraped to the top with terminal pump.

Best sports route

La Crème at Ansteys, because of the great techy moves and the sense of satisfaction from finally getting it done after a lot of effort.

[fatneck]

Super thread! Mainly very jealous and in full agreement with this...

On the few occasions I've been out this year I've got sucked into trying to re-do something I did long, long ago and failing. Until I'm back in shape I just need to learn to walk away.

Need to stop doing this too!

Also...

Top Actual Climbing Experience

My 40th Birthday Bash! Great weather and despite the fact that I've been doing it for years, I am always super humbled by the amount of people that turn up and this last year was the best attended by a long shot. Makes for an amazing weekend and I really should say a massive thank you to everyone who made the effort - Thanks! Just need to sort dates out for this year now!

Top Fishing Experience of 2016

Ellerdine Lakes for my 40th Birthday - caught two double figure trout in one day in a bag of 14 fish overall. Far and away my best day's fishing ever

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBDyZDKzAnE/?taken-by=fatneck1976&hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/p/BBDSBKvTArT/?taken-by=fatneck1976&hl=en

[SA Chris]

Top Fishing Experience of 2016

If we are allowing non-climbing related events;

Best Snowboarding day

Bluebird with a foot of fresh at Pras de Lys - me, my brother and a mate, off piste fresh tracks all day - almost too much fun, sublime

Best Surfing Day

Fantastic surf at Famara Lanzarote - 10 k roadbike to get there, waist to chest high Atlantic swells in boardies and on a knackered out hire longboard that was actually perfect for the waves.

Best Ski Day

Touring Loch Avon Basin - Midweek day off work for Fresh tracks in Y Gully, Castlegates Gully, Smooth Chute then Lurchers in the fading light of day, with final 100m walk back to car park just as it was getting dark.

Best 24 hours

Aurora Photographing at Banff and Sandend 11 pm friday night until 1 am Saturday, surfing great waves  all morning, the fun afternoon mountain biking at Moray Monster Trails. Utterly exhausted, but delighter afterwards.

[willackers]

It's been a funny year, I've not done loads of climbing in 2016, especially in the UK, but what I have done has been pretty good quality. In July we moved to Perth, Australia, I thought the move would totally kill my climbing, but it was not the case.

Top three boulder problems, UK

One Man and His Dogmas (7B+), a great highball, that's the only real stand out UK problem I have done in 2016.



Top Boulder Problem, Abroad

Back in October we had a good trip to New Zealand, it was all a bit last minute, Helen found out there was a conference in Auckland and she suggested we make a holiday out of it. I thought it would have been rude not to sample Castle Hill for a week while Helen was doing her thing up in Auckland. I found out that Jack Folkes and Watson were still there as well, so we met up for a few days and had a really good time. It was nice to meet JackAus, anothe UKB member. We climbed loads of classics, some real unique Castle Hill stuff, but didn't even scratch the surface. So. Much. Rock.

Charlie Brown (V9) up at Wuthering Heights, it looks like it's been taken out of Fontainbleau and plonked on the hill, so good.

Juggernaut (V9) was another beaut, right in the heart of Quantum Field.

Midnight Milk (V6) was a great bit of weirdness.



I have also managed to get a few classics ticked off around Perth.

Thin Grin (V10) is the local classic test piece, it took a few sessions and some cold, early morning starts to get the most out of the tiny granite crimps.



Jonesy's Arete (V8) is definitely one of the best arete problems I have climbed, stunning location as well. The other side of the arete is still a project! 



Top Trad Route UK

Reservoir Dogs! I first tried this with Dunning in 2014ish, it was a totally miserable and cold day and the top of the route was wet, I made absolutely no progress and pretty much wrote it off, thinking it was too hard. I decided to go back up there in March 2016, after an abseil inspection and a play around on the bottom I decided to make it my goal to do the route before our Australian adventure.

The difficulty of the crux really surprised me, if the conditions weren't spot on, it just wasn't possible (for me). After a few sessions and a few big falls from the top, I finally got it.

A perfect route in a stunning location. Happy 



Top Three Problems Put Up

I didn't think I would be climbing much in or around Perth, never mind climbing new lines, good ones as well! Steel City Groove and Half the World Away are up there with some of the best problems I have done, anywhere.







It's definitely been a year for quality, not quantity.

Bring on 2017!! 

[abarro81]

Top three two boulder problems, UK
Didn't do much UK bouldering due to not spending that much time in the UK. Master Kush and Taylor Made will suffice for having fun moves.

Top three five boulder problems, abroad
The Wheel of Life (Australia) – The world classic of the genre, and it's my kind of genre: trickery and endurance in a roof. Didn't think I'd try it on our trip, then ended up doing some sections and links and suddenly realised it was on.  Good for my ego to add myself to the list of beasts who've done it  and even better to not feel like it was really that hard. Went back and did it with Megos' variation start and the direct finish too, since we were in there avoiding the rain just to show off. I'm such an arrogant prick. Lifetime tick.
Killer Dwarf (Australia) – Awesome movement, classic Klem problem, dodging rain showers on an early morning solo mission, siphoning out a huge pond using an in-situ garden hose and more walking and faff than I ever thought justifiable for a boulder problem.
Lost for Life (Australia) - Not because it's the best, but because when I first sat down and tried to pull on I thought (and said) "I'll never climb a problem like this". 1 hard, basic pull into a 7C exit to make an 8A+ is not my normal forte. Nice to manage to climb outside my normal zone for a change.
Black Shadow (Rocklands) - Great problem. Psyched to smash it out in a session having nearly died in a car crash a couple of days earlier.
Caroline (Rocklands) – Some people don’t like it but I really did.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
Huh what??

Top three two sport routes UK
Power Ranger (Malham) - Cool crux sequence which I did with a fun flick. Pity it's not got a bigger/harder headwall. I really enjoy hanging out on the catwalk being bullied by Jee and Carl
Toadal Recall (Malham) - In almost by default due to how little UK sport I did, but mainly in as it was the first really crimpy route I did after my volar plate injury and thus was a nice mental boost just before heading off for the long trip

Top three five routes abroad (any genre)
Groove Train (Australia) – One of those world classic, must do, life list kinda routes. Took the big fall from slapping the jug at the end of the hard climbing, caught my leg behind the rope, flipped upside down, had long enough to contemplate how badly the situation could end and finally got lucky and swung rightwards into the cave on Snake Flake thus not smashing my head. Big fall. Somehow summoned the mental fortitude for another go that day to finish it off. Lots of power screaming. Brilliant experience.
Punks in the Gym (Australia) - Like Malham but with slopey footholds. Not my favourite climbing of the trip, but lovely rock and another world classic must do. Groove Train and this are basically why I wanted to go to Aus. I miss being away and living in a van!!!!
Bad Girls Club (Rifle, USA) - Whilst I find it an endless source of frustration that climbers don't use apostrophes in their route and boulder problem names, this made me happy. We switched our plans for the USA to go to Rifle and it was ace. Went there with this in mind, got on it on day 1 whilst jetlagged and slowly but surely broke it down over the next 2 weeks. Steep, thuggy fun.
Waka Flocka Flame (Rifle, USA) - A really enjoyable journey up and across the project wall. Heard about these routes for years, nice to go and do them. Climbing well, fighting hard but staying just in control, perfect. Savoured every moment on the easier headwall with a big smile inside, looking around the canyon and down to the ever supportive locals on the road.
The Tube (RRG, USA) - If Font and Rifle had a bastard love child and locked in it the cellar for its childhood this would be the result. A beautiful feature in an area that's not normally feature climbing. Don't know if the rock will hold up to extensive use/abuse though, perhaps it's good that it's currently not in the guides. Makes it kinda cooler that it's a little off the radar too. Balancy, tricksy climbing that can be tamed with knees.

Honourable mentions: Serpentine, Eye of the Tiger, Streetfighter, Braguetasso

Top three one new routes/problems put up
For once I get to write something in this bit, although I'm still just as much (even more?) of a parasitic leach on the climbing community...
Smash and Grab (Oudtshoorn, South Africa) - New routing with no new bolts or moves involved, just doing a harder start into an extension of the adjacent route. Still, to my mind the obvious line up the middle of the crag and a lot of fun despite the 33C heat.

Top Spankings
The Viking (Oudtshoorn) – Totally kicked my ass. Way harder than the ‘harder’ route next to it. Couldn’t even do the moves in isolation.
Pendragon (Rocklands) – Too freakin’ weak to hold that hold. Having seen the vid of Cailean snapping his pulley on it probably didn’t help me muster the required try hard.
Garbage Planet (Rifle) – One to return for, though I need to learn to do enormous dynos on 50 degree walls first! Reckon the School board might come in handy for that...
Everything since returning home – weak, weak, weak!

Best Life Tick
Getting engaged to the girl who makes me smile all the time. 

A damn good year for tripping, and thus a mediocre one for UK stuff. The next year years decade??? will likely reverse that... or at least for a few years I'd guess until Ella and I get bored, sack it all off and have some more adventures again. Long live trips!!!

[Yossarian]

Will - which crags near Perth did you visit?

[shurt]

Was a year of little climbing, lots of training and some cool numbers when I got out which was good and bad in equal measure. It would be nice to get out more but that just isn't possible at the moment. Doing my hardest sport route to date and equalling hardest boulder was really amazing and made all the fingerboarding / pull ups feel worthwhile.

Top three boulder problems, UK

Slotted Wall 7a+, Bovey Woods
First 7a+ I've got in one visit.

Brionified 7a, Neath Abbey
Flashing this made me realise I should be climbing harder than 7a+. A good aim for next year.

Help the Aged 7a, Stanage

Top sport route UK

Insatiable 7b+, Cheddar
First route at this grade and my 3rd (I think) session on it. Felt like all the training for the Spain trip really paid off. Got a vital beta suggestion from a friend and got it next go. Felt really really pleased. I've been stuck on 7b for a fair few years.

No other ascents to report. Some other routes on the go.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

None to report this year (hangs head in shame)

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Went to Siurana with some people from off here and others. I did some great routes up to 6c+. I can't remember the names of a lot of them. Went to an amazing crag at Margalef for the day too. Amazing area, great routes, great people. Lots of drinking, chewing the fat, laughs, the good stuff that happens on a good trip.

Near miss of the year

Techtonics 7b, Neath Abbey
Fell off the last (easy) move of this after a beta / brain failure. Although I didn't get it done it felt like a real step forwards as I've never climbed 7b before. I tried it after I'd done a lot of other climbing. I feel really optimistic about getting it done on a return visit. 

[nik at work]

Top three boulder problems - UK
Did a tiny bit of UK bouldering but nothing that warrants entry into a top 3 list

Top three sport routes - UK
None

Top three trad routes - UK
The Broken Man, The Chasms, Isle of Man.
A great route, bouldery, boldery start, gear, bouldery middle, gear, then relative glory romping with further gear. Second ascent of a future Dougie Hall classic.

Eroica, Pentire
Didnt do the top pitch due to horrendous weather but what a lump of rock in a great location and a reunion with climbing partners of old made for easily the most memorable day of climbing in 2016

Sacre Couer, Blackchurch
Same trip, was raining all morning in Bude, decided to chance Blackchurch, stopped raining when we got there, we all did the route in lovely weather, then it started raining again. A great route and a perfect opportunity.

The Moon, Gogarth South Stack
This is an honorary mention as I didnt lead the crux pitch, but it was my climbing partners first E3 and is the probably the ascent that runs closest to Eroica for most memorable of 2016. Not because there was any epics, or fuss or problems but just because it was great.

Top three boulder problems - non-UK
None

Top three sport routes - non-UK
El Espinazo del Diablo, Margalef
A tufa route, I hate tufa climbing and find it desperate. And true to form I found this to be desperate, but I actually quite enjoyed it. Didn't feel any easier than the adjacent 7c...

Estilson, Margalef
Steep powerful start, then lengthy pleasantness.

Bon Rotllo, Margalef
#1 sons first 6a lead.

Top three trad - non-UK
None

UK trad was the highlight of 2016 by a long way, the Margalef ticks would be long forgotten in a more productive year I'm sure. Hopefully more climbing will be done in 2017...

[ali k]

2016 was the first year I've ever tried following a training plan and done any proper structured sessions. Still yet to be convinced that it paid off as it felt like a lot of sacrificing outdoor climbing for and I never had a period when I felt properly 'on it' like the previous year - just tired from training all the time. I learnt a lot from it though and hopefully can tweak it this year.

Top three boulder problems - UK
Don't really boulder outside anymore so nothing to report.

Top boulder problem - abroad
Rubis Sur L'Ongle, Font
Scraping my way up this just about salvaged a soaking wet trip to Font at Easter. It started pissing down after my first couple of tries on it and there was water pouring into my eyes as I topped out.

Top three sport routes - UK
Toadal Recall, Malham
I tried this many years ago and remember getting totally shut down on it so it was nice to go back and tick it off in a quick session on a weekend hit from Bristol.

Bird of Paradise, Cheddar
Felt desperate for the grade but certainly one of the most memorable sport routes I've done in the UK. Great climbing on perfect rock and in a pretty awesome position above the gorge.

Eurofighter, Shipwreck Cove
A steep and rare (for the SW) endurance style route in a beautiful location. Took just long enough to get properly involved with but not so much that I'd started getting frustrated. Now for Helvetia this year...

Top three sport routes - abroad
Lourdes, El Chorro
After the usual xmas indulgences I started the year off with a surprise O/S of this in the first days of Jan. Definitely felt like one ticked off the lifetime list.

In the Night Every Cat is Black, Diablo
Doing Ejector Seat and then this both first go in a day was pretty special. Especially whilst being heckled by megaphone. Good crew, good times.

Los Racos di Cantalos Extension, Arhi, Kalymnos
I just love tufas so much and this is 50m of pretty much only that. Also my first 8a+ onsight. Even if it is in Kalymnos. But Gaz Parry didn't O/S it so I'm taking the + for it!


Top three trad routes - UK
Always the Sun, Pembroke
Certainly some of the best climbing I've done on gear and a properly inspirational line.

Muy Caliente!, Pembroke
Had absolutely no intention of getting on this or any other hard trad at the start of the year until Heason convinced me to have a look while he was working it. Don't think it ever warranted the E10 grade but I was surprised that it came together so quickly and then felt easy on lead. No spicy times.

Point Blank, Pembroke
At the risk of seeming grade obsessed this has to be on here. The rock in Stennis Ford is just so good.

Top spankings
Shot by Both Sides, Pembroke
This was one of many occasions during the summer when I was completely fucked from training and just got a complete schooling.

El Chocco, Brean Down
Turning up at the crag I boldly said I'd just repeat all the up routes I'd done before for a bit of mileage. Didn't quite go to plan as I had to redpoint Chulilla and then flailed for about 45mins trying to get over the roof on El Chocco. And that was me done for the day. Embarrassing.

[jakk]

Why not jump it, absolutely loving reading through this thread. A year in part of slaying past demons but also of continued failure slaying new ones. This was also the year I built a board at home and my only regret is not doing it years earlier.

Top 3 Boulder Problems UK
Only a few days in the UK this year and all on the grit in Spring but a bunch of things I'd wanted to do.

Master Kush, Rivelin
Always wanted to do this and didn't disappoint, took a little time committing to that weird right hand but really cool.

The Terrace, Burbage
Again, on the list for ages and a nice problem.

Ron's Slab (The one on the pebble), Stanage
delightfully committing top, only one problem left for the full pebble tick now.

Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad

Gourmandise Raccourci, Cuvier Rempart
Tried it a year and a half prior and felt on that nails/doable boundary but this time it felt easy, with specific moves and parts of moves that had been giving me so much trouble feeling casual. So pleasing to feel actual progression. Turned out to be the last good day of the trip so went off and did a bunch of other leftover things instead of flailing on the lower start but one day I'll be back to hopefully jump on it.

Sky Stand, Rocklands
I didn't finish it, a crushing disappointment to be elaborated on below, but damn its just so good, even just the top is so damn good!

Flying Guitar Thief, Rocklands
Maybe the biggest fuck-yeah moment all year was latching this jug, maybe the best, biggest, silliest and most fun dyno I've ever done. Just enough of a fight to be meaningful without actually taking significant time from the trip, its just great.

Top Spankings

Sky
Well shit, that didn't go to plan. I reckon I was just about strong/good enough to do it if I had everything go my way and they just didn't - temps shot up just as we hit project time and I ended up trying it right at the end of the trip while noticeably weaker that at the start, still, really always knew that something like that could happen and I should have jumped on it day 1. Anyway, the experience was great, can't think of a problem I've ever tried better than this, at least for what I want from a problem, and I almost feel privileged to have spent time on it.

Those 2 board projects I had up Nov-May
A pinch problem and a crimp one, either would have been the hardest I've still climbed to date. On the crimp line I eventually magic-ed through the crux and then dropped the comparatively easier top moves, then of course never got there again, with the pincher I made progress, actual tangible progress but it was designed to be 2 notches above my level at the time to push me up one, and it did its job perfectly. Eventually they got replaced and a lot of the motivation to build my own board was down to hating losing these types of projects, but these will be 2 which stick in my mind for years to come.

smeary heel hooks on hard things
I had a list of things I'd wanted to try that were probably out of my league in Rocklands, mostly to find what was really needed from me at a higher level, and damn, I've gotta get better at heel hooks again! relearned how to place while crawling into the 8s a few years ago and looks like I need some more schooling again. I've become good at keeping tension fairly front on but now I have to learn to do so while doing a large complex move with my heel basically on smears. A nice spanking in that I roughly understand it and was kinda looking for one, but an unexpected one. Nothing a board reset can't fix.

3 Most satisfying vengeance ticks

Carnage, Cuvier
Why did I always find it hard? No idea, but now its done, and I will never touch it again.

Deliverance Traverse, Stanage
Likewise, just something about those foot pebbles. I strapped up my stiffest shoes and reached for glory.

Weichei, Rocklands
After so much joint disappointment and pain 2 years ago it was dispatched in a session by both me and my friend. Feels good.

3 things to go back for

Sky
Still disappointed by this 4 months later, still can't believe I let it slip away. Not sure when I'll go back, but when I do it will be for vengeance.

Duel
Holy crap I can actually do this! Only had half an hour at the end of a day but it feels so possible, like if I put in a session or 2 there's a non-negligible chance that I will do this climb, and for Duel, something I literally never thought I could ever do, something not ever even really worth considering until then, any chance of success feels worthwhile. One of the most exciting moment of the year.

Golden Shadow
Was as out of my league as I expected it to be but threw in a session and a half just to see what was needed from me to boost up to that level. Lots, of course, but now I know roughly what that is and I can work on it. One day I will be back, maybe when I am I'll have improved enough to do this. One can only hope

[205Chris]

2016 was pretty much a tale of injuries for me, certainly meagre pickings in terms of getting things done.

Top 3 Boulder Problems, UK

Enchantress, Forest Rock
No idea on the grade, I knee-barred it into oblivion. Regardless of grade it's a great problem and satisfying to tick it in a session. A little bit disappointed I only managed one session here as the other problems look great.

Fight on Black, Widdop
Took a punt on trying this in June as a finger injury precluded trying anything that involved crimping. I went from not being able to pull on to ticking it just before it got too warm.

Rob's Wall Stand, Eskdale
Probably the first time I committed to crimping with my right hand since I injured it. A great top move, just a shame the rock is so sharp!

Sport routes
Finger injuries and peak lime do not make happy bedfellows. First time in 5 years I've not climbed a sport 8.

Top 3 Trad routes, UK
After blowing off the dust and cobwebs on my rack, a day at Castle Naze provided the only 3 trad ticks of the year

Keep Arete, VS
A nice warm up for the day and pleased to see that I can still remember how to place gear

The Scoop, HVS
The main event. Always wanted to do this since seeing the classic photo, although I'll admit I didn't do it barefoot. Didn't disappoint.

The Crack, VS
The only other climb I did that day so sneaks in by default.


Top 3 Boulder Problems, Abroad

Hybris, Fontainebleau
Should have ticked this in a trip over the new year but my elbows gave out on the final rockover at the top. Satisfying to return in March for the tick.

Black Bloc, Val Masino
Spent 2 weeks in Val Masino which was probably the best two weeks bouldering I had all year as it was about the only two weeks I spent injury free. Great sequence of moves with a remergence style rockover at the top, followed by highball padding to get off the boulder

Foxy Lady, Val Masino
Probably the best tick of the trip. Font 7c in a session is pretty much my limit. Got through the start only to fluff a heel move due to lack on concentration. It then took me ages to get through the start again. Only just held it together at the top as fatigue set it.

Honourable mention
The entire Safran circuit at Beauvais Hameau (Bleau.info). 100 problems of unspoilt sandstone goodness. No pads, just a small rucksack and a pair of shoes. Best problem - number 60, the 3+ climbers Deliverance.


Top Spankings

Injuries - Started the year with pretty bad golfers elbow, picked up a niggling pulley injury in February. Due to sheer stupidity on my part on a Font trip I managed to make it a whole lot worse meaning the best part of 6 months off. Recovery coincided with the trip to Italy but injured a pulley on the other hand on my last day  .

To top it all off on the Eve of departure for a year off wound up in Northern General having my appendix out.

[bolehillbilly]

Have got lingering man-flu but reading the thread and writing this has cheered me up

Top 3 UK Problems
Famine 7A – Potato Cave   Saw this on a Tops Off film (?) and had to seek it out.  Satisfying to get a handful of that barrel shaped blob in the conglomerate.  Becoming a Games of Thrones tourist trail extra disturbed the end of a quiet session but also provided some entertainment.
Virgin Wall Traverse 7A – Churnet
Parklife 7A - The P  Didn’t do the FA but did get to name it!

Top 3 Non UK Problems
Arête Right of the Fin 6B+ Glendalough   At the end of a good day, which saved the best until last; deserted valley, slightly high, very fatigued, good fight.
Lapin Au Canard 7A Isatis Hautes Plaines  Struggled on a sweaty, over chalked evening but cleaned it up before I left and it went steadily early the following morning.
Beware 6A Carrickfin  Perfect day.  This one was tricky.
Top 3 New Problems
Mainly what this year has been about so deserves a grit and a lime list!
Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem.  Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P    This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C  Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.
Top 3 New Grit
Somnium 6C Crich  Patio construction effort of last year paid off, worth the wait for a spot. 
Bigger than a Bee SS 7A Hillcar Wood  Only adds a couple of moves to the stand but they are very cool ones.
Flake Breakdown 6C Beatswood  At the very far end, the Pen Six block provided some good new problems earlier in the year; this lip traverse was the best of them. Tough.
Honorary mention Parboiled 7A+ traverse at Parbold Quarry – sneaked this one in before Christmas on a visit to family. Nice to get a FA at the place I started climbing at 30 years ago
Routes
Only 2 all year, both with my 10 year old daughter.  Right Route at the Roaches Upper Tier was the best.
Spankings
Apart from the annual 10 Inch Zombies disaster I haven’t had to walk away from too much this year.  Must try harder in 2017.

[tomtom]

Rob's Wall Stand, Eskdale
Probably the first time I committed to crimping with my right hand since I injured it. A great top move, just a shame the rock is so sharp!

Forgot I'd also done this in 2016 - this should have been on my list... great problem, my ascent was a last gasp, fading light, disintegrating skin, only just snatching the last holds gibbering over the top ascent. Excellent.

[cheque]

The Scoop, HVS
The main event. Always wanted to do this since seeing the classic photo, although I'll admit I didn't do it barefoot. Didn't disappoint.

  What were the chances of this featuring twice in the best of 2016?!

Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem.  Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P    This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C  Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.

What's the deal with these new southern lime venues Marc? Will they be secret forever or is it just while they're being developed?

[Fiend]

The Scoop, HVS
The main event. Always wanted to do this since seeing the classic photo, although I'll admit I didn't do it barefoot. Didn't disappoint.

Back around 205Chris!  Cheque tell me you did it barefoot...... 

[shark]

Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem.  Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P    This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C  Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.

What's the deal with these new southern lime venues Marc? Will they be secret forever or is it just while they're being developed?

All are on topos on his website:

Fashion Wagon: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_c.pdf
Human Kind :  http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_p.pdf
Miners Ten: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/miners_ten.pdf

[Coops_13]

Top three boulder problems, UK
Picnic Sarcastic - Felt easy when I sent this mega classic after some time off
Crimpy Roof - Hardest boulder, built for me. Also burnt off a mate, see 36C's post
Old King Cascade - Had to work very very hard for this. Everyone should get on it, mega.

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Crazy Horse, Font - So good and went relatively quickly after some time off climbing
Enterprise, Magic - Went on first day in the dark with a lot of screaming, nice.
Bosna Genial, Magic - Crimpy, overhung, campus, 7A. What more do you want?

Top three sport routes UK
Insatiable - First of the grade 
Animal Magnetism - Fight at the top, cutting loose like a hero
Bodysnatchers at Empire Crag on the Orme - Steep juggy (dusty) fun

Top Spankings
Zippy's Traverse - Mega spanking, should have done it on my first session. Smallest dab in the universe between me and a tick 
Reksi, 7b route at Misja Pec - Should have done this, instead I fell off and smashed my knee, ending my trip...
Angry Samoa, Magic - Latched the top so many times but slid off due to claggy conditions. Ended up tearing nail off

[cheque]

Sorry Fiend, didn't realise it was mandatory. Found it desperate in shoes to be honest! 

All are on topos on his website:

Fashion Wagon: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_c.pdf
Human Kind :  http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_p.pdf
Miners Ten: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/miners_ten.pdf

  Yeah I'd seen that before but forgot about it. Cheers.

[bolehillbilly]

Top 3 New Limestone
Miner’s Ten 7A+- Miner’s Ten Long, long traverse into the best up problem.  Lots of visits to nail this and some Churnet stamina training required, hopefully I’ll be as fit as this again at some point this year!
Human,Kind 6C+ The P    This might get overlooked but is pretty decent.
The Fashion Wagon 6A+ The C  Surprisingly brilliant highball, almost the last problem done here.

What's the deal with these new southern lime venues Marc? Will they be secret forever or is it just while they're being developed?

All are on topos on his website:

Fashion Wagon: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_c.pdf
Human Kind :  http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/the_p.pdf
Miners Ten: http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/miners_ten.pdf

Not secret, though it's just been word of mouth so far.  I recently put some location details on the topos but haven't got around to posting on the new problems thread or adding to PBInfo.  I'll sort this out at some point soon. 

[Fiend]

Sorry Fiend, didn't realise it was mandatory. Found it desperate in shoes to be honest! 

Hmph! Possibly still got my foot cheese on it from 10 years ago tho