[Murph]

Coops that's a ridonculous amount of 7s. Good work! Doesn't sound like 7C was overambitious at all. Have you tried many?

I've never climbed harder than 7B but next year it is as good as certain that I'll get a 7C, not wanting to tempt fate mind you. Touch wood and all that.

Next time you're up in the peak maybe have a look at Tom's Cave (the pooh cave, not the roof). It's easy to get to. There's a couple of 7Bs in there and Hannibal, which I've not done obviously, gets 7C. That looks a good bet. Not that I know much of course.

Good luck with it either way and thanks for providing and sharing so much psyche in 2017!

[Coops_13]

Coops that's a ridonculous amount of 7s. Good work! Doesn't sound like 7C was overambitious at all. Have you tried many?

Cheers Murph, I've tried a few. Just not yet found one I'm psyched to project. I have looked at Hannibal briefly, will look again next summer. Psyched for a winter of training!

[Yossarian]

- Heal most recent injury Tick!
 - Don't get re-injured Tick!
 - Boulder 7C Might have been a bit ambitious with this. I have cemented grades a lot better
 - Train finger strength Did a little then injured them. Have been sat on the 50 for a while which seems to be helping
 - Go on some good trips Tick! Chironico/Magic Wood in Easter, Rocklands in summer, Lakes in Summer and a load more weekends in between, and two font trips 

Big year of bouldering for me, some good volume and some relatively big numbers. Pretty happy as my aim for 2016 was to get up to 100 7s total and this year alone I have done > 100.

UKC says this year I've done:
4 7B+
16 7B
34 7A+
64 7A

Bring on 2018!

That’s awesome - bravo!

[sdm]

Next time you're up in the peak maybe have a look at Tom's Cave (the pooh cave, not the roof). It's easy to get to. There's a couple of 7Bs in there and Hannibal, which I've not done obviously, gets 7C. That looks a good bet. Not that I know much of course.

I've not done it yet but Hannibal feels pretty solid for 7C to me.

[remus]

Next time you're up in the peak maybe have a look at Tom's Cave (the pooh cave, not the roof). It's easy to get to. There's a couple of 7Bs in there and Hannibal, which I've not done obviously, gets 7C. That looks a good bet. Not that I know much of course.

I've not done it yet but Hannibal feels pretty solid for 7C to me.

I've also not done it, but I don't think it's a push over for the grade. There's some knee bar shenanigans which might help depending on your particular dimensions.

[Murph]

Not claiming it's not 7C. Just seems very do-able to me, having gone there once or twice to have a look (once it was wet and once there were dogs eggs under the start). Hard to judge though of course.

If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.

[Bradders]

If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.

The Terrace?

I have done Hannibal and thought it was bob on 7C, it's just a very different style to most other Peak lime 7Cs being very shouldery and powerful as opposed to fingery.

Video beta/shameless self promotion here if you want it



Coops would also highly recommend Resonate at Anston Stones. Similar case of nice powerful climbing without any small holds (although again it's no pushover at the grade).

[Coops_13]

If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.

The Terrace?

Yeah, have always thought the Terrace looks a bit crap. Brass Monkeys could be a good grit one I think.

I have done Hannibal and thought it was bob on 7C, it's just a very different style to most other Peak lime 7Cs being very shouldery and powerful as opposed to fingery.

Could be a good one actually, I have shoulders and don't have fingers...

Coops would also highly recommend Resonate at Anston Stones. Similar case of nice powerful climbing without any small holds (although again it's no pushover at the grade).

I did pull on this in the summer, hard and good. May be another to try next spring

[Coops_13]

If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.

Video beta/shameless self promotion here if you want it

Also props for the strong psyche at the end 

[Bradders]

If there's a stronger contender for soft 7C-but-definitely-7C that's easy to get to and all that then please suggest away as I'll be on the scrounge soon enough.

Video beta/shameless self promotion here if you want it

Also props for the strong psyche at the end 

Haha cheers, I was well chuffed! Best line at Anston I reckon.

[shark]

Looking back at the 2017 climbing aims is a bit embarrassing.

However, it's been a great year. Done a lot of bouldering with the boys and they've done well in their exams with Ben now at uni.

A late life change of career direction in a job described as a poisoned chalice was far more demanding than I expected and I'm proud of how I carried out the role and achieved exceptional results which required overcoming numerous hurdles. The job, whilst frustrating has also been very stimulating and probably better than slipping into retirement which seemed to be the way I was heading.

Looking back at the Power Club entries I think I trained well for the Oak in the Spring and was unlucky not to get it (did it from four moves in to the top) and maybe I would have got it where it not for other lifestyle factors.

Managed to fit in a super few days in Pembroke after a long absence and a recent bonus fun trip to Leonides

I have ended the year stronger but without much to show for it. On paper doing a 7B in a day at Connies Dale was a first but far more proud of doing Jericho Road especially with Ben doing it too on the same visit and Moffatrocity should go down when dry again.

[Oldmanmatt]

Pretty simple, but seems tough as I write.

Finish a project.
7C+ on Granite.
Tie on a rope again and clip some bolts. In the sun and sod the grade.

And this:
http://www.thefandancerace.com

On the 1st of July, in 4hrs with 35lbs (sod being in the "Masters" category).



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...

Well, I didn’t finish my project. Fan Dance training and injury, long busy summer of family and work stuff and an autumnal return to Sport; all gave way to a winter construction project, and.......
Suddenly, the year is over.

Fan Dance went well, despite the Arthritis thing and the torn/MCL or ruptured meniscus (never got to the bottom of which, by the time I got around to getting refered for a scan, it gone). I didn’t manage an SAS/SBS qualifying time (4hrs) but came in @ 4:42. Plenty of room to improve (I was way too conservative on the Roman road descent and poor water admin for the 30* heat that day, meant stopping to get reserve water from Bergan etc).
Time consuming, energy sapping and injury prone Training required though and since I’m too old for 23 or SBS(R) anyway (and fuck doing the whole selection as a middle aged man, let alone actually deploying!), not sure if I will run again this summer. My Youth squad coach, from the Bunker is due to run the Winter Dance (if he can’t come up with a suitable injury in time, A&E have sent him home twice with Ibuprofen in the last month (joke, he’s training hard)), so I’ll see how he rates it. I’ve never run it in the winter.

Managed a bit of sport (cheers TobyD) finally. I moved to Torquay ver five years ago, with firm plans to clip bolts and somehow it never happened.
My attempts have been disappointing, but fun. I thought they might be.
Finding the cold a bit trying, to be honest. I have a genuine problem with Reynauds as a result of many non-freezing cold injuries as a younger idiot.
Overall, age is begining to hurt.
Tomorrow is my 47th birthday, I’m getting extra-stiff Approach shoes, which I had to try on (so no surprise) because of the arthritis.
I cannot adequately express my h̸a̸t̸r̸e̸d̸ admiration for those w̸a̸n̸k̸e̸r̸s̸ inspirational people who seem to keep going well past their sell-by date.
f̸u̸c̸k̸ o̸f̸f̸ Kudos to you!
 

[Wood FT]

Looking back at the 2017 climbing aims is a bit embarrassing.

However, it's been a great year. Done a lot of bouldering with the boys and they've done well in their exams with Ben now at uni.

A late life change of career direction in a job described as a poisoned chalice was far more demanding than I expected and I'm proud of how I carried out the role and achieved exceptional results which required overcoming numerous hurdles. The job, whilst frustrating has also been very stimulating and probably better than slipping into retirement which seemed to be the way I was heading.

Looking back at the Power Club entries I think I trained well for the Oak in the Spring and was unlucky not to get it (did it from four moves in to the top) and maybe I would have got it where it not for other lifestyle factors.

Managed to fit in a super few days in Pembroke after a long absence and a recent bonus fun trip to Leonides

I have ended the year stronger but without much to show for it. On paper doing a 7B in a day at Connies Dale was a first but far more proud of doing Jericho Road especially with Ben doing it too on the same visit and Moffatrocity should go down when dry again.

That’s a good year by anyone’s measure Simon, nice one

[lagerstarfish]

The job, whilst frustrating has also been very stimulating and probably better than slipping into retirement which seemed to be the way I was heading.

Despite my frequent piss-takes, I quite admire Shark and his "work/life/climbing = it's all life" approach to being alive. It is especially nice to hear that slipping into retirement might not be as worthwhile as doing stuff that matters. He's mentioned this a couple times while we've been chatting about not much.

I squandered much of my youth working for quick cash and blowing it all on 6 month+ trips away climbing and snowboarding (with some diving and a bit of partying). As a result I have a job rather than a proper career which means that I will be working until I'm 67 before I have much chance of retiring.

I know that Shark puts quite a bit of effort into thinking about his situation/future, so hearing that a stimulating job is sometimes better than retirement is rather nice.

[James Malloch]

Injuries

1)   Try to fix my injuries by utilising my work’s medial insurance which I’ve already paid the year’s excess for.
      a.   Bupa consultation booked for tomorrow for a hand specialist in Leeds. Hopefully I can get a proper diagnosis for my pulley injury and finally fix it.
This went well - finger is all fixed and feeling good!
      b.   Restart my knee strengthening exercises from last year so hopefully I can run again (10k run without pain).
Failed at this - I really need to sort it out this year though as I'm missing running a lot
2)   Take the first few months of the year easy to fix the above injuries.
Yup
3)   Use this time to work on some technique exercises following a coaching session I had with John Kettle before Christmas.
Nope - just easy climbing really as the injury healed quickly
4)   Once I’m feeling confident that my finger is fixed, start a proper training plan to increase finger strength (ideally before the Yorkshire limestone season starts).
Yup - but failed at sticking with it...

Climbing

1)   Once fixed, start working through the grades again (on sport). I’ve got a Yorkshire sport tick list comprising of around 20 routes of each grade from 7a to 8a. My aim is going to be to try and onsight or flash as many as possible and try to finish one grade before moving on to the next. I’m hoping this will help my climbinghead, reduce the risk of injuries by not being tempted to try harder things and take me to lots of crags I’ve not yet been to.
I think I only had two days of UK sport. However, I managed 5 new routes at Malham/Kilnsey on these two days. Most first go having been on them 4 years ago.

2)   Not get involved in any long term projects. If it doesn’t feel like it will go in a weekend then I’m aiming to leave it until I’m stronger/better.
No projects this year. Hopefully have some this coming year.
3)   Try tremolo again as a late-season tick (subject to finger being okay).
Only had the one day there and Tremolo had lots of people on it unfortunately
4)   Specific grade goals:
      a.   O/S 7b (was 7a last year)
TICK! It may have been a soft one in kalymnos but I'm happy with it! Came agonisingly close on a number of others too, falling right at the end where there's essentially no way you can fall...
      b.   Flash 7b+ (was 7b last year)
Fell off one due to bad beta on the last crux move. It was short person beta from someone who said to go for the crimp rather then the slightly higher victory jug..
      c.   RP 7c (same – I think 8a is too ambitious given my finger at the moment).
I think I did one in Kalymnos... but it may have been 7b+. I'd have to check my guide.
5)   Incorporate one arm hangs into my training.
It went well for a while, and then stopped.
6)   Track my training and keep notes (probably through the power club).
For a while - everything went wrong in the summer due to work and time though unfortunately.
7)   Bouldering aims TBC – probably going to leave them until the summer/autumn but it would be good to tick some more 7A’s.
Got a bunch of 7A/+, one or two 7B's and my first 7B+ so this went well!
8 )   Help girlfriend get up a 7a sport route – she’s psyched for one and I’d love to see her climb one!
Maybe next year... This year wasn't great for getting out for both of us.

Life

1)   Go to an 80/90% work contract.Got it accepted but didn't start it. It's been a busy work year and I think I'd have ended up working extra even if I dropped my hours. Maybe next year...
2)   Find and fix the shower leak. One day...
3)   Fix central heating. We're super warm now!
4)   Visit parents more (bi-monthly?) Managed to make it home more this year - it's been nice!
5)   Waste less money / save more. I'm definitely saving more but still wasting lots. Something to work on in 2018
6)     Sell crappy van / buy new car The van's gone and I've a Berlingo. It's perfect for climbing and we've not had any problems yet, touch wood.

It's been an enjoyable year for me. Not loads climbing wise but I'm feeling stronger/fitter and have had some great trips. Work has been dominating much of my time but it's been fairly enjoyable at least - definitely need to do less next year though and increase the "life" part...

[Teaboy]

Well, this is embarrassing

Never done this before and always feel I've missed out come the end of year even though I would invariably miss most targets....

I got one prediction correct.....

1. Recover my shoulder or at least get a decent diagnosis and work around that.

This particular injury got forgotten about under the welter of other injuries I had

2. Get stronger, I only want to do this to help achieve some of the other aims but if I manage to get up my other targets without getting stronger it probably means I've cheated somehow so I should list it separately to keep me honest.

Definitely didn't get stronger, quite the opposite

3. Climb a UK 8a

Not even close

4. Climb 2 big routes at Gordale

One trip to Goredale so that's a no

5. At least three visits to Chapel Head Scar

Not one

6. Obscene Toilet

Didn't even have my annual pilgrimage to the Tor

7. There are three routes at Terradetes I've scoped out. If I go, doing one is a minimum and doing two would be nice.

Didn't go to Terradets

8. On sight 7b+ in Kaly at Easter (there are still holiday grades there, right?)

They do still have holiday grades which enabled me to OS 7b but still short of my target

9. If I get injured, something decent in the Alps or on trad.

I was injured but not in the head so managed to steer clear of the Alps. Trad just didn't happen

Non-climbing
1. Buy a house

I over achieved here but it was not without drama and wasted large amounts borrowing money I never used in the end. Also, as I'm one of those predicting a fall in property prices so I'm not sure how much of a win this is

2. Do something decent fitness wise (e.g. Welsh 3000s, Rossendale Way, MT Loop)

Was diagnosed with a badly arthritic hip which precludes anything like this without a replacement, not sure if things are bad enough for a replacement yet but it has noticeably deteriorated this year so maybe that will happen sooner rather than later.

3. Buy a car befitting of someone in a mid-life crisis

I didn't go for the full "Marjorie, I'm leaving you and the kids and taking the au pair with me" type mid-life crisis style car. I did however buy something which means I no longer have to park around the corner when we go places.

4. Some thing at work has to give, not sure what or how.

Slight role change, got offered an enhanced career break and declined so now only have myself to blame for staying where I am. Bit happier.

[jwi]

1. Being only mildly depressed during pollen season.

Tick. I found an amazing medicine that can be had over the counter in Spain, but not in France, so now I just need to stock up with 6-9 weeks of “Rino-Estabel” to survive the pollen season without much suicidal thoughts. Using this medicin I can also climb almost at my normal level during spring, only lost about half a grade this year.

2. Increase finger strength at least 5% above previous maximum. This is pretty much equivalent to do a one-arm hang from 20mm edge (left hand) and with 3 kg assistance (right hand)

Nope. Did increase two-finger strength on positive pockets though, which really helped in Verdon.

3. Improve shoulder flexibility/mobility/strength to that of an average human.

Give my self half a point here. If the average human is 60+ I guess I'm average.

4. Being able to do 12 pull-ups before my left shoulder start to lead the pull/roll forward (can currently do about 4 before I loose form)

Can't even do 12 pull ups at the moment.

5. Onsight at least one 8a. I'm not fussed if it is a well-known soft-touch.
6. Onsight at least one solid 7c+ in the Provençal grading system.

Shitty goals. Wasn't inspired to climb onsight on single pitch crags. I didn't train for it, and I think I didn't even try to onsight something above 7c.

[shark]

That’s a good year by anyone’s measure Simon, nice one

Thanks Guy

[shark]

The job, whilst frustrating has also been very stimulating and probably better than slipping into retirement which seemed to be the way I was heading.

 As a result I have a job rather than a proper career which means that I will be working until I'm 67 before I have much chance of retiring.

I think you are doing yourself an injustice. In return I've always admired those in social care. Personally I lack the patience, empathy and no doubt a dozen other humanistic qualities. It gives you the chance to make a real difference to others lives. A rose tinted view? Whether a job or a career doesn't matter if you value or enjoy it which I assumed you did. Maybe you don't. If so we should have a chat...

x

[moose]

Despite my frequent piss-takes, I quite admire Shark and his "work/life/climbing = it's all life" approach to being alive. It is especially nice to hear that slipping into retirement might not be as worthwhile as doing stuff that matters. He's mentioned this a couple times while we've been chatting about not much.

I have a lot of admiration for Shark too (possibly not apparent to him because of my generally sarcastic mien - a product of exhaustion / general misery rather than anything particular to him).  I find his optimism, appetite for future self-improvement, and committment to pursuing goals really heartening.  I read many of Shark's posts on Aims / Power Club etc feeling slightly ashamed of my self-pity, pessimism, and tendency to revert to an easier option [types the man sitting in a dressing gown, brinking a cocktail, watching darts]. 

[Richie Crouch]

1. Get to 80kg whilst remaining <10% body fat
2. 100kg bench
3. 75kg overhead press
4. Get an official handicap (at hit the small white ball) and play some nice courses with the old man around N Wales
5. Get back up an 8th grade bloc (may conflict with most of the above!)
6. Go abroad for a proper holiday!

1. Got to 76kg then lost the will power to overeat enough to hit the magical 8 0
2. Total failure
3. See 2
4. Got given 10 as a provisional, bit harsh and only played to it twice this year. Had some good games with old fella too which was nice as we don't see each other much.
5. Don't think I even pulled on to one.. Poor
6. Got to Font for a short trip back in Oct which was fantastic with a loveable group of old scouse helms and a couple of wools/hull-sheff based gegs.

Quite the fail! 

[Duncan campbell]

2017 promises to be an exciting year for me as I'm headed to Spain for TWO MONTHS iat the end of Jan!!!  So for that reason will put my sport aims at the top.

Sport:

Redpoint 8a - no excuses not to put some effort into an 8a that will suit me - unlike those bouldery peak ones I've tried. Loooking forward to trying Pren Nota at Siurana in particular. tick! Climbed Pren Nota as my first 8a. Also did Memorias de Una Sepia but used the shakeout jug so don’t think its worth 8a.

Push into on-sighting/flashing 7b+ onsighted 6 single pitch 7b+ and a 500m with a soft 7b+ pitch on pitch 11

Would like to go for the flash of some 7cs in Chulilla at the end of the trip as Chulilla sounds like my dream crag - long vert crimps tech fests. flashed festre fotre in margalef and did the 7c to its right first go putting the clips in having tried it years ago. In Chulilla I didn’t flash any 7cs as I was trying to onsight them. No cigar unfortunately but climbed well on my attempts

Trad:

Consolidate further at E5. This means regularly onsighting ones that are considered solid/hard for the grade and haven't been cherry picked to suit my style. did 12 this year (10 onsight/flash, 1 ground-up and one that I redpointed after falling off and dogging to the top) this is probably as many as I have done in the last two years combined.

As ever just keep getting on them and enjoying going for the onsight and challenging myself.

Go for the onsight of an E6. Even if I fall off or down climb (for valid reasons) this will be a success. got very close on orange robe burning. This was my best effort but also tried the pulse beat in bad connies and tried to flash tears of a clown (terrifying) this was a bit of a conservative aim tbh I should have aimed to do one

Lord is a long term goal but could also be a candidate for a first E6... had one day where I felt too burnt out to strap it on but did get psyched for it after and planned to head up but it rained :/

The sport trip early in the year should really help with these aims giving me a leve of fitness I will never have had before.

Bouldering:

Climb more 7Bs

West Side Story!!!

big fat fail. Probably been my worst year of bouldering since I moved to Sheffield

Non-climbing:

Make a good start in Rope Access world. Work hard, make good contacts.

Eat less (no?) meat and less dairy.

Get it sorted so I can spend summers based in Llanberis and Winters based in Sheffield - basically live in a van so I guess green?

Balance climbing with seeing family and friends correctly


Big chat here so we shall have to see if any of it comes to fruition!

Hope everyone achieves their goals next year!! Good Luck!

2017 has been a really good year for me and my climbing. Looking forward to seeing what 2018 brings!

[JackAus]

1. Get fitter, leaner.

Fail. Got injured a couple of times, 2 fingers and and ankle. Full on training program now though.

2. Rocket Man

Didn't try it. Injuries.

3. V9s V10?

Nope. Just the one V8

4. Trips: Perth, Gramps, NZ.

One day on rock in perth, shithouse conditions.
Gramps week was good fun. Mainly stuck to crags I hadn't been to before. Did a bunch of cool problems. Couldn't really go to some longer walk in crags because ex-gf fucked her ankle about 2 weeks earlier.
NZ.... Fuck. 3rd day in to a month trip and I sprained my ankle..... Couldn't walk for 2 days, so went on a big road trip. Still got some climbing but mainly lowballs or easy stuff. Ended up being able to do a few things at the end of the trip but did fuck all.

5. Get back onto some DWS. River Rage 7c has been in my mind for a couple years... Left exit to Look To The West. V10ish crux...

Not been to Crafty's (River Rage)
Not been to Big Red (Look To The West). Was due to go but sliced finger open bouldering just beforehand...

Have been checking out a bunch of dws crags up north past Newcastle. Nothing that difficult or high but some good lines! Heading back up there first thing tomorrow morning to try and do a new S3 I cleaned last weekend (was too rough and risky to try it without rope.)

6. Pinnacle proj, Canberra. New highball I cleaned and worked the last couple days. Ace.

Not been back. I know I need to be much lighter to pull hard on that shit left hand crimp for the crux.

Overall a shit year I think. Fingers crossed this one works out.

[tomtom]

Sounds like those injuries really got in the way Jack hope 2018 is better.

[Luke Owens]

Just remembered I'd forgot to post on this...

- Do my 3 Little Orme projects

- Boulder 7B

- Stop being weak for the grades I climb

Did 1 of 3 projects.

Fell off the last move a few times of the only 7B I tried then got injured on it.

I'm still weak for the grades I climb.