[Duma]

guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?

I measured from the flat bit.

fair enough - looks in the pic like the tape is in the middle of the slot.

[standard]

guessing its the rounding at the back and edge that accounts for the diff?
how deep is the flat bit?

I measured from the flat bit.

fair enough - looks in the pic like the tape is in the middle of the slot.

it is. sorry. i thought that's what you meant by the flat bit?

[Murph]

Standard meant the flat but at the back, not the flat bit on the bottom.

Pictures measured along the bottom bit...

2k, measured from the front. 21-22mm:


And the 1k measured from the front. 18-19mm:


So the 2k is 3mm deeper on the flat bit, but more like 5mm deeper including the bit at the back, and it is also incut about 5-10 degrees (as measured with a child's fork, not with science).

In my world those differences add up to one of them being one armable for about 3 times as long as the other.

[fried]

Why's that cute little doggy sniffing your finger?

[kelvin]

Just been training on Pauls home board and that has a 2k and 1k - the 2k is way easier 'on his' to hang from. Pretty much the same depth I'd say but the radius and the edge is way more positive on the 2k. The 1k radius is more like the outer lower 2k 4 finger slot radius, much more rounded.

Whether that's down to individual boards or consistent, I wouldn't know but Paul says the 2k is way easier to hang one armed.

[nai]

I otoh bought a small campus rung (~19mm) for 7 Euros, and fixed it with the non-incut side up.

Duh, I bought a set of 3 then realised they were too incut when I fixed them.  Hadn't worked out how to resolve that. 

[36chambers]

Anyone else find that lowest central slot on the BM2K pretty useless? Too uncomfortable to drag, too constricted to crimp.

I half crimp it a la Chirs Web Parsons' program and find it ideal for that grip.


My BM2K slot measures in at 21-22mm, but I have just realised that since tweaking my frame the board is actually off vertical which may (or may not) explain why I can't touch the 45s.

   

[Falling Down]

Busy week with other stuff

M-S 30 press ups each morning
T - Westway bouldering: Boiling hot and busy but had a good session up to V3. 

Early days still.... busy week this week but hope to get to the wall at the weekend.  Flights booked for a France trip late Feb.

[tommytwotone]

Similar for me - busy week sorting out household drain problems, but did manage:


Thurs: Trip to Depot after work, general pottering testing out ongoing elbow issue that seems to have quietened down.
F: Woke up with stiff / sore elbows - hmmmm. Not sure if that's bad or just a sign that they've had a bit of movement.
S: Hosted sleepover with daughter's 4 year old cousin. Took them both to the Climbing Lab on my own. Una still totally not bothered with climbing, her cousin turned out to be very keen / good.
S: After about 2 hours' sleep, took both kids swimming on my own. Quite a mission.


Not so much training for climbing as training for having > 1 child this week.

[SA Chris]

Flights booked for a France trip late Feb.

What about the promised Aberdeen trip?

[shurt]

bit late but hey ho

mon - sat
nothing

sunday
Managed to muster the troops together for a trip to Neath Abbey (hadn't been before) to loosely celebrate my Birthday - well that was my excuse to get people in Bristol to get their arses into gear. It was a really cool day, 5 of us in the end. Ollie and Hugh knew their way around which made it really enjoyable. Climbed loads of problems around 6c - 7a including a flash of a nice 7a traverse. The best thing that happened was me nearly doing a 7b problem called Tectonics (never done one before) falling off the last easyish moves after getting the crux done. Felt like I could get it done with a return visit as we only had a go towards the end of the day. I've not gone up a grade bouldering for a long time so it would be great to get back to do this.

A good week, well day really. 

[SA Chris]

Nice Sam, Happy Birthday. Always wanted to check it out, but no-one could tell me exactly where it was. Looks cool.

[Duma]

Happy birthday Sam. Brionified and Techtonics are great aren't they? Did you do Perfect Slab? My favourite problem at Neath.

[shurt]

Hey thanks Chaps. It was a cool place but, without someone to show the way, would have been hard to find on my own. I thought generally all the problems were great. The rock is brilliant too. A welcome change from the savagery of Dartmoor.

Re: Perfect Slab: I was so keen to get elsewhere that I foolishly declared "I don't give a fuck about this problem". There was laughter but sounds like I missed out. 

Keen to get back there. Tried Triassic too which could be doable for me.

[Falling Down]

Happy birthday Sam - sounds like a great day out.

[filz]

M: pullups. bm weighted hangs
T: work
W: theraband shoulder exercises
T: board pe session. Not bad.
F: nothing
S: isometric weights. emom ring planks, handstands
S: bm weighted hangs. emom ring planks. Tired

[webbo]

Mon. Railway museum with grandson.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Bike 40.81 miles 2 hrs 36 mins.
Thu. Board did a couple of old problems with screw on feet. Then did some system type problems.
Fri. Bike out with old guys  72 miles 4 hrs 40 mins with a lunch stop.
Sat. Board worked and did a couple of new things and did all the moves on another but couldn't link it.
Sun. Bike 62.48 miles  3 hrs 53 mins.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

45' Board - 1 hour

5 x 1min on 1min off HI-Aerocap

10 mins LI-Aerocap

W: Rest

T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 mins LI-Aerocap

Messed about trying some random dynos with some locals.

30 minutes on the 45' Board.

Messed about upstairs on the roof/cave and the vertical bouldering wall.

Didn't realise the time and the place closed so couldn't warm down. More of a distracted/social session than usual, usually have the place to myself...

F: Rest

S: Manflu/DIY

S: Manflu/DIY

[SA Chris]

Wed. Bike 40.81 miles 2 hrs 36 mins.
Fri. Bike out with old guys  72 miles 4 hrs 40 mins with a lunch stop.
Sun. Bike 62.48 miles  3 hrs 53 mins.

Do you record your total annual distance on Strava or anything?

[TobyD]

M 21. Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 22. Turbo early AM. Boulder Bunker PM
W 23. Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 24. Turbo early AM, Gym AM, walk PM
F. 25 Turbo early AM Gym AM
S. 26 Turbo early AM Gym AM walk PM
S. 27 Turbo early AM Gym AM walk PM

Feeling better conditioned and less weirdly boxed by any significant activity, irrespective of intensity. This is a common problem with head injury, but positive that it's improving. An hour's weights in the gym still feels fairly tiring though, but I am guessing that is reasonably normal!

[webbo]

Wed. Bike 40.81 miles 2 hrs 36 mins.
Fri. Bike out with old guys  72 miles 4 hrs 40 mins with a lunch stop.
Sun. Bike 62.48 miles  3 hrs 53 mins.

Do you record your total annual distance on Strava or anything?

I don't use Strava, I have an old style Sigma computer. I write it down in a diary and occasionally add up what I've done.