[TobyD]

Week 17-23 October. 58.0 kg
Most days include wrist curls and stretching

Mon AM gym mainly shoulders; light cardio
Tue PM turbo light session of intervals
Wed PM gym: shoulder work, light jogging on treadmill
Thu Turbo AM 40 minutes: interval set PM Boulder Bunker light experimental session to assist with planning proper climbing rehab
Fri Turbo AM 40 minutes; interval set
Sat Gym AM: shoulder and core
Sun Turbo AM: cadence session 40 minutes; light core. Might get to the Boulder Bunker later this afternoon for a few traversing laps if I can get a lift, but probably need to rest really.

The 'light' climbing at the Bunker was pretty much what I'd normally consider permissable for active rest, I ached like I'd had 6redpoints on an 8b the day after... The longest journeys start with a single step, as they say! (Cheesily). Anyone want to go top rope some V Diffs then?! 

[fried]

Cheers Toby

M - Rest
T - Indoors, feel like I'm coming down with something, climb sluggishly.
W - F - Bit under the weather, didn't bother doing another substandard session.

Sa - Cooked then ate wild boar, with blueberries and chestnuts. Did some pull ups between chopping stuff up.

Su - Decided to go and do something different as I'm getting into a bit of a routine with places and pobs. Went to Beauvais Hameau to have a look at the red circuit. Got lost for the first time in ages took a good hour to do the 5 minute walk from the car to the first rock. Fairly unsuitable for my big pad, spent a lot of time lugging and throwing between blocs, lots of the problems have nasty landing or need a spot. Did some blues/ yellows, then eventually managed to find a red with a decent landing https://bleau.info/hameau/6880.html. Took a long time, what a technical gem of a problem, typical Font wall problem that seems tough until you get the correct sequence. Brilliant.

Any chance a mod could put the week no. in the thread title?

[tomtom]

Afternoon all...

M: work

Tu: Work, then RockCity in the evening. Surprised myself by (a) doing a couple of 7A and 7A+'s and (b) enjoying the problems..

We: Work/Baby stuff

Th: Rubicon: Murph popped by taking pictures and I surprised myself by nonchalantly getting up A Bigger Splash... Been working it all summer, and been trying it for the last 5 years or so.. Excellent! One of those 'sighter' attemTickled the jug but didnt get any further on ABS direct...

Fr:

Sa: NCT meet up in the morning and I then looked after TTjnr in the PM/Eve whilst MrsTT went out earning vital day out points for sunday.. (cheeky max hangs session when the boy went to sleep)

Su: up early and out to Stoney Edge. Walked in from the White House (5km) with a stern side wind, that made it a bit drudgy with a pad... started on Elfin safe tea that I pathed a couple of years back - but got nowhere! grit aspirations rapidly lowered and calibration needed! Went to the Longship boulder and set to work on Longship (7A) that had beaten me on my last visit.. Took an hour of attempts rests and rethinks before it went.. next up was Grit Exam (7A+) that took a few attrmpts but is a really good problem. Then Argle Bargle (7A+) - another great problem - that I just managed with the last attempt of the day - skin failing (three small holes!) in the attempt and a shaky pumped out top out. Excellent stuff...

So a good week, 4 more 7's for the pyramid - an old nemesis gone and a great day out.

[Dolly]

M Few easy routes at the gym in the evening
T Wave at lunchtime. I don't now if I was tired or the level 2s were back to there normal standard (ie level 3s) but I found then all desperate.
W Only went to do a few routes at the gym as I couldn't stand the idea of kettlebells in a crowded gym. Got into working one of the routes with someone I met there and quite enjoyed myself.
T My Shed. Obvs it was good and hard and that. I've discovered a new tactic. When I start getting tired, I stop for a few minutes and have a small sip of beer. I do the problem next go. It worked last week and it worked this week. Maybe I should write a book r summat -  or sell my tactic as a training plan.
F Champagne - not strictly power related TBH
S MTB, Houndkirk, Lady Cannings, Ox Stones. I think the trail through Lady Cannings is great.
S Rivelin with Jon B. I was slightly the worse for wear after 2 nights on the fizzy stuff, but managed to do Mini Beak which was pretty good I thought.


We're away this coming week so its going to be a week of weights, core and cycling.

[nai]

S MTB, Houndkirk, Lady Cannings, Ox Stones. I think the trail through Lady Cannings is great.

Did that for the first time on Friday and thoroughly enjoyed it. Can see it being quite addictive wiring it and chasing a time.

[Murph]

Nice one TT - that was a very casual tick of BS indirect considering how long you have waged war with it!

M-rest
T-working Advanced Training with Matt. Again. Matt smashed it out of the park pretty quickly    . I took my sweet time getting through the low crux before getting the top hold, yelling “Yeeeahhhh” and then “waaah” as I fell off. The top is categorically not the crux so this was a right letdown. Such a letdown I then went and repeated the feat about 20 minutes later, falling off the top in similar style. Luckily by this stage my skin has been compromised and I’d got two small flappers.
W-rest / VS routes on Stanage. How does that famous Ben Moon quote go….”when 7A isn’t hard any more and VS is approaching a rest”….?
T-rest.
F-rest. Also back to work after a three month paternity leave holiday. In climbing terms the best three months of my life. No question. Would recommend it to anyone.
S-Morning session on AT. Again. Tenth session on AT. Wired the top when I got there but unbelievably it didn’t go down. Could not get through the low crux for the first time in the past four sessions. Post match analysis on my part is that the skin that I ripped on Tuesday wasn’t quite healed enough and/or the fingertape solution I used was amateur at best and impaired my ability to milk one of the crucial holds. Genuinely believed that this time, getting through the crux, which is now almost routine, would result in glory.....
Later I tried some weighted pull ups for the first time in a while. Not firing on all cylinders and was only managed 6 sets of 6 with up to 12kgs added.
S-Ill-advised max hangs session. TIL – you can’t really do max hangs with fingertape on half of your finger tips. Just rest let the skin repair itself.

Weight – 63.1kgs average. Down over a kilo from last week. Need to establish 62.5kgs as my new “set point” as currently fat man in a thin person’s body and don't never wanna go back.

STG – Advanced Training, 62.5kgs
MTG – Advanced Training
LTG – Advanced Training
Problem to-do list – Advanced Training, Piss, SotG, Tsunami, Dancing Fish & Picnic Sarcastic.
Training to-do list – 147, BM+50kg, OAP

[tomtom]

no Advanced Training cigar. Boo.

[Murph]

For those interested, here is what no cigar looks like. Is this close? It f*****g felt close. Was going to post a NNFN at the time, but it was sort of a good thing as it would surely go next time. Still will. I'm staying positive on this one, even though it feels like I'm at war with it and it's destroying my life...

[nai]

goals - 
winter - end of season mopping up through Nov and starting a training block focussing on strength initially.

2017 - Powerplant, Raindogs, Nemesis, 7c onsight, E6.

Mon - Decent temps, the Tor had a breeze on it for the first time in weeks and felt extra grippy. I imagine, I had to cancel my plans and was stuck at home with a sick child child who had been poorly over the weekend and was fine now but had to stay off school for the requisite 48 hours. Tried to do a board session but couldn't generate the enthusiasm

Tue - physio appointment for dodgy knee then physio exercises.

Wed - Knee now dodgier.....

Proud Whore.  Linked P1 ok and did P2 in two.

Thu

up B2B to equip, happy with all the moves now, decided I may as well start redpointing despite not having linked Prow P2 in a oner.

RP 1 - Fell off gnarly lower wall.  Went from the break as as per original, climbed to the top of Prow then fought into and up the groove totally boxed.  Ace, a proper scrap, best of the year I think. Shame it didn't earn a tick.

RP2 - arrived at entry to groove quite pumped, decided to clip an extended draw off a good flatty rather than press on a couple of moves. Fell off next move. Should have pressed on, won't be extending that draw again.  Fortune favours....

Fri - 16km mtb ride.

Sat - slow 27km mtb ride.

Sun - Nowt. Quite tired.

Half term this week and a bit of a transition phase, taking the week off before starting a new training block although will be trying to get out while the Prow start remains dry and it's warm enough for RPs.

[36chambers]

For those interested, here is what no cigar looks like. Is this close? It f*****g felt close. Was going to post a NNFN at the time, but it was sort of a good thing as it would surely go next time. Still will. I'm staying positive on this one, even though it feels like I'm at war with it and it's destroying my life...

Enjoyed that clip . I want that guy around shouting "Come on! Hold it!!" when I climb. It would be hard to not give it 100%.

[tomtom]

It's so close! Dropped as you're about to match. Is it body tension just dropping as you go to match?

[Murph]

It would be hard to not give it 100%.

It was hard, yet still I managed 

Is it body tension just dropping as you go to match?

It's having the hold less than perfect and not even thinking of getting a right toe on. Basic lack of technique really. I know for next time...

[shark]

Thanks Toby

10.11-11.0

Mild sniffly cold from Tuesday onwards

M. Up with Steve, Haydn and Rab. Generally good temp with sunny spells - bit greasy / humid later on Cons x 3. Go 1 Dogged up and linked horn to top Go 2 Bit distracted by Steve and Rab shouting to each other - got the horn but didnt hold Go 3 Climbed well to undercut but got fingers all crossed in sidepull above, struggled to untangle with partial success but fell going for horn Go 4 Only 20 mins rest Got to set up for throw but fingers too weak in the undercut to try it (not enough rest) Go 5 Really hacked off by this stage. Got thru to the horn but struggled to hold sloper which felt really greasy - rocked up aggressively and got tips in resting undercut but not far enough and was off Go6 Getting dark ground to touching horn, Rested on 3rd bolt. Managed throw to top. Disappointing day. Regressed

T.  Cold set in - decided not to train

W.

T.

F. Up with Luke Dawson, Haydn and Giulia. Wet streak at end of top traverse. Broke out yet another new pair of Whites. Cons x 3. Go 1 Dogged up. Didnt feel great. At least undercut by third bolt only wet at ledft hand side. Go 2 Climbed surprisingly well but when I got the undercut by the third bolt it was soaking so couldnt pull up. Stuffed a towel in it Go 3 Knocked towel out with clip stick and it was dry enough to use when I got there - managaed to do throw and got horn but didnt hold it Go 4 Got to undercut by third bolt again but to wet for me to use. Stripped route and sacked off plans for back monday

S. PM Foundry Wave - enjoyed it - felt good. Eve Big party with old friends. Great night. Got shit faced

S. All day hangover. PM Fingerboard weighted deadhangs. Not bad scores

Crushingly disappointing week after the progress the previous week. Not sure how much to attribute to cold and how much to feeling jaded. Going to train for a week and if dry then go back with Steve next week.

Looks like the redpoint is going to slip between fingers again. The worst thing is that I will have to do what it takes this winter to get in shape to get it done ie train and diet and lay off the booze which isnt going to be much fun.
     

[standard]

Whoever had Luke Dawson, Haydn or Giulia, see me to collect your prize. No double prizes for double Haydn sorry.

Whoever had Steve and Rab, sorry, no prizes. Too obvious.

[kelvin]

F. Broke out yet another new pair of Whites.




     

I have a pair of size 6.5uk in my store, if you're interested - they've only climbed Looning the Tube. Can't see me wearing them very often as I seem to be settling on Scarpas these days.

[shark]

I have a pair of size 6.5uk in my store, if you're interested - they've only climbed Looning the Tube. Can't see me wearing them very often as I seem to be settling on Scarpas these days.

Thanks Kelvin - I'm an 8 though I am bidding for an unworn 7.5 on eBay following a tip off

[Wood FT]

Anyone storing some 5/5.5 while we're all sharing our addiction?

[kelvin]

I have a pair of size 6.5uk in my store, if you're interested - they've only climbed Looning the Tube. Can't see me wearing them very often as I seem to be settling on Scarpas these days.

Thanks Kelvin - I'm an 8 though I am bidding for an unworn 7.5 on eBay following a tip off

Best of luck with the hunting. Oh. And The Oak!

[measles23]

Enjoyed that clip . I want that guy around shouting "Come on! Hold it!!" when I climb. It would be hard to not give it 100%.

And I'm usually such a quiet spotter, but something of the sergeant-major came over me when it looked like Nick was going to fuck it up....yet...again!

71.8kg (target 70)

M: work

T: got Advanced Training at beginners wall - there's a reason why Murph and I have been banging away at this - with a decent sequence this is a quality problem.. Also did It's a traversty which is also good now that tony has unearthed the hold that time forgot..

W: work

T: dead hangs BM2k small crimps open crimp max hangs up to +40kg for 5s

Deadlifts at Strength Asylum - ambitiously had a go at 225kg for a new PB; first go faltered at mid-shin as unbalanced, second go no faltering and got it up YYFY - 3xBW was symbolic, but 225 was always the ambition for this cycle so well chuffed to get it (esp as this equals the Army open record..)
Couldn't close 230 off 2" blocks as I forgot to baby-talc my delicate thighs, so left hand fingers stuck fast into the thigh.. I've been doing singles for 4 months now so time to back off and cycle through 5s and 3s for a while..

F: work

S: Works for coaching by Zippy - 1hr for the boy, 1hr for me - good sesh; the boy really got into all the challenges he was set, while I got beasted doing an hour of 1 arm work on the fingerboards, finishing with an evil Andrada on-the-minute exercise (I'm sure I said I wasn't interested in stamina but he seemed to enjoy inflicting pain so I indulged him..)

S: Stoke AW - 2.5 hrs probs up to v7 trying to take it a bit easy as pretty sore..

Feel a bit overtrained now but very happy with this week; this annual come-back has been one of the hardest yet what with endless manflu, injury, heaviness and business at work - I've just kept plugging away with the plan I set out with, so nice to be rewarded with a decent problem and a DL PB in the same week 

Fucking hell Nick, hold on to the muthafuckin hold!!!

[nai]

The worst thing is that I will have to do what it takes this winter to get in shape to get it done ie train and diet and lay off the booze which isnt going to be much fun.
     

Surely you should be looking to train heavy over winter, then drop the excess as you starting peaking for Spring. You can't be light and at your peak all the time, easier to cut back and lose weight at the right time when you've cut yourself a bit of slack for a while.  I averaged an extra 4kg last winter, peaking at +6kg over Christmas.
And surely if you did the Oak you'd have a new project which you'd be training for anyway? I don't believe that you can't not train, it's in your DNA.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - one arm hangs test, incut rung: 16" left, 30" right. Make of that what you will. Snatch pulls, cleans 5x5. Shoulder walk, 30" x5, brutal.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing. Good volume, fingery session. Hot, very humid. Good fun.
Thu - light complexes, climbing class. Tired.
Fri - boxing bag. Very hard.
Sat - weights, boxing bag. Very tired.
Sun - board climbing, not sparky but quite solid. Low int. PE 1'/1' x5 completed. Boxing bag. Not bad at all.

Hard week, lots of dining out, lots of drinking.

[shark]

The worst thing is that I will have to do what it takes this winter to get in shape to get it done ie train and diet and lay off the booze which isnt going to be much fun.
     

Surely you should be looking to train heavy over winter, then drop the excess as you starting peaking for Spring. You can't be light and at your peak all the time, easier to cut back and lose weight at the right time when you've cut yourself a bit of slack for a while.  I averaged an extra 4kg last winter, peaking at +6kg over Christmas.
And surely if you did the Oak you'd have a new project which you'd be training for anyway? I don't believe that you can't not train, it's in your DNA.

You porker ;-)

That approach didnt quite work this year ie I didn't get down to the Autumn 2015 all-time-low weight in the Spring although I wasnt too far off. I was thinking if I kept around 10% body fat which is around 11stone mark through the winter then drop 4/5lbs when the Oak dries.   

Yes I would be training but I was thinking that for the maximum gains I will have to sacrifice going outdoors as much as I would have otherwise. Also I figure I will be doing more of the types of training (ie on woodies) that I don't enjoy.

I haven't really thought it through properly yet and I still have potentially a last couple of shots at the route next week before I commit to a plan. The thought of passing the 10th anniversary is painful.     

[nai]

Yes I would be training but I was thinking that for the maximum gains I will have to sacrifice going outdoors as much as I would have otherwise. Also I figure I will be doing more of the types of training (ie on woodies) that I don't enjoy.

I reckon you could still manage to get outdoors and do all the training you need with a bit of planning, especially during a base phase (this is what I'll be doing anyway).  E.g. AeroCap and AnCap aren't really long workouts (20-45 mins) which you can perform after an outdoor bouldering session, maybe just have to leave a little earlier and fresher.
And once you improve on a woody I'm sure you'll start to enjoy it a lot more, just have to suck it up for a few sessions.

[shark]

Yes I would be training but I was thinking that for the maximum gains I will have to sacrifice going outdoors as much as I would have otherwise. Also I figure I will be doing more of the types of training (ie on woodies) that I don't enjoy.

I reckon you could still manage to get outdoors and do all the training you need with a bit of planning, especially during a base phase (this is what I'll be doing anyway).  E.g. AeroCap and AnCap aren't really long workouts (20-45 mins) which you can perform after an outdoor bouldering session, maybe just have to leave a little earlier and fresher.
And once you improve on a woody I'm sure you'll start to enjoy it a lot more, just have to suck it up for a few sessions.

I feel knackered just thinking about it.

[nai]

That's the spirit.