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UKB Power Club Week 349 24th - 30th Oct 2016 (Read 9945 times)

Luke Owens

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M: 2 x 10 min LI-Aerocap

T: PlasPower - 10 min ARC warm up

Set a replica of the 2nd crux of my proj, took a few goes to do it, repeated it twice. Did replica of 1st crux a few times then managed to replica the full traverse section of the route. Did a link from first crux to the last move of the traverse before the decent rest before the 2nd crux, 14 moves.

10 min ARC warm down

W: 2 x 10 min LI-Aerocap

T: Luch - 2 x 10 min LI-Aerocap

Eve: PlasPower - 10 min ARC warm up

Started putting the Original Moon Set of holds on the Moonboard in the correct places. Set one of the 7A's off the app to try next sesh.

25' Board - Replica felt easier, linked from first crux to rest (16moves) rested on a vertical wall for a few minutes, weight mainly on feet, then fell off the last move of the 2nd crux (5moves). 21 moves in total, not bad. Need to build up to 14 moves linked into the above. Overall the replica feels harder than the real thing.

Did both cruxes in isolation a few times.

5 x 20 move circuit (1min on 1min off) HI-AeroCap

10 min ARC warm down

F: Late getting to the gym on lunch only fitted in 10 mins LI-Aerocap

S - S: Family/Halloween parties

petejh

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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October, November
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Redpointing phase.

M.
T. Didn't think I'd get a partner for Tor Wednesday so went for a lamplight Pilbox Wall session in the drizzle and mist. Greasy, so finish early and got home to find I'd got a partner for the Tor. Stretching hips/glutes.
W. Tor, Mecca sesh 7. First time back on the route since early June. Felt nails and impossible on the first go up. Felt nails on second go up. On the third go up I remembered how to pull some of the moves and it suddenly felt achievable again.
T. Stretching hips/glutes.
F.
S. Tor, Mecca sesh 8. Introduced girlfriend and daughter to the delights of the Tor, they liked it! Damp from mist and morning drizzle when we arrived. Went for walks, played poo-sticks in the river and explored caves for an hour or two until it dried up and then it came good. 3 working burns - linked from start to left-hand undercut before backhand move. Doing backhand move the left foot out left way I think; can't make the dropknee fit. Very happy with that. Impressed with gf's daughter (11) getting very close to holding the match on Too Hard for Mark Leach. Then took them to Horseshoe Quarry for some routes. Finished day with beers, meal and cards in the Red Lion in Litton. Good day.
S. Watched the Rally GB in Alwen forest, well good. Two more rally converts right there. Beacon in the afternoon for some route'age to get the blood flowing.

DOMS today from working Mecca.. Coming together, feels like I should link from ground to throw to the groove on a good go now. Just need to get throw to groove sorted and refine groove (and buy/beg a knee pad).

Keen t oget back to Tor Tuesday and Thursday, then one day on weekend.

Duma

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Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June

Body Audit: pretty much clear, touch wood.

Sleep decent this week - been on hols for few days tho which makes things easier obviously.

M: TCA eve, trying to finish off yellows(~7hrs)
T: Nothing, big roast in eve (~6.5hrs)
W: Nothing, drive to Cornwall eve. (~6.5hrs)
T: Nothing, wander on beach (~7.5hrs)
F: Nothing, wander in woods, park (~7.5hrs)
S: Nothing, kids Halloween fancy dress party - really tired in aft for some reason...(~8hrs)
S: Nothing, dads birthday, swim in sea in morning, got really cold, went to bed for couple of hrs, got up for lunch, managed to eat a bit, then diarrhea, then drive back to Bristol. feeling bit better by eve, managed to eat some toast. early night. (~8.5hrs)

Very easy week as in Cornwall with family for half of it, plus ill yesterday. At least I'm light. Going to try and get an hour at the wall this eve as feeling lot better.

68kg (though prob not in a good way...)

tomtom

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After 2 days of the HIIT at lunch I had a fanciful notion of doing it every day, Insanity-style as a way of getting back to fitness. The excruciating pain I was in on Saturday stopped that idea in its tracks. Must be getting old.

Nah. Just cycle it a bit with lighter sessions. Maybe 1 day of HIT, next day jog to your gym, stretch, jog back or similar, then HIT next day again?

Is this maybe that pre Child(ren) you wouldnt have to actually do much when you had raging DOMs?

fried

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M - Indoors 2h - Don't remember much, but an O.K session, trying steeper stuff.
T - Nothing
W - BM, manage to do 5 hangs of 5 secs on 35° slopers (thumbs gripping under), very happy. 30mins.
Th - Indoors, good session on more steep stuff, made decent progress on a couple of problems that seemed impossible last week.
F - Rest
Sa/ Su - Beautiful autumn weather, spent at friend's in the centre of France, ate a lot, drank too much, walked a little, excellent weekend didn't feel too sad about missing out on the forest ( bank holiday tomorrow :2thumbsup:).

webbo

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Mon. Bike 70.99 miles 4 hrs 15 mins.
Tue. Feel like I've got doms.
Wed. Still sore.
Thu. Board did a few things struggling a bit. Bike 18 miles 1 hr 4 mins.
Fri. Board 15 problems to warm up then lapping 2 problems 16 times each using different foot holds.
Bike. 19.99 miles 1 hr 3 mins intervals 20 secs on 40 off X 5 3 sets.
Sat. Family stuff.
Sun. Board did one thing I couldn't do on Wednesday but spent a lot of time flailing.

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - Low Int. PE 30'/30' x5; 1'/1' x5 completed both, mega progress! Trap work; hill sprints. Tiring.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing, 21 degrees, 80% humidity, worst conditios of the last few years. Few links on project. Boxing bag 30'.
Thu - climbing class and some climbing.
Fri - rest.
Sat - bouldering in the Dolomites! Amazing day, one of the best ever. Lots of problems from 5 to 7b+.
Sun - another gorgeous day, blue, clear sky, sunny, locking pockets at waist level nothing else comes close.

Amazing days in the Dolomites, tapering volume, quite smart, good Nibs, pat on the back. Must collect my thoughts.
In any case, everything I've done, I must have done it right because I was on fire. Astounding.

shurt

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Pretty good week.

m: 3 sets on fingerboard
t: nothing
w: some pull ups 10 + 5 and 20 press ups
t: nothings
f: 3 sets on fingerboard
s: 2 lots of 20 press ups
s: went to a new playground at the end of my street which was cool. there was an adults exercise area too with a good set of monkey bars. managed about 6 muscles ups but needed a rest in between.


submaximal gains

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M Foundry, bouldering on the wave
T
W Am went for a run, pm Fingerboarding, still only got halway through then ran out of steam
T
F
S Went to Churnet with friends, did a few things low 6s and below
S

STG 7A again
MTG stronger fingers
LTG Shit, Ben's roof

filz

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M: board climbing. Tired from the weekend
T: Some front lever progression and crunches
W: fb max hangs. Yoga in the evening
T: bad day at work, no head for training seriously. Played a little with the hangboard and some easy board climbing +5kg.
F: nothing
S: bouldering. Not a good day
S: rope climbing. Some easy routes, then gave a couple of tries to a 6c+. Trickier than I remembered.

 

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