[standard]

tune in next week for another edition of.....who did shark climb with this week!?

[Muenchener]

Nah, he peaked too soon. Didn't he climb with Mina & Ben in the same week? How's he going to top that?

[shurt]

Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?

s/m/ltg: regain some previous magic

Managed three sessions on the fingerboard and the odd set of 5 PUs this week.

Starting to feel like progress is being made. Even though I have been motivated I have tried to not hammer it this week as going from nothing to a lot doesn't feel like a good idea. I am still miles off of what I was doing before the Spain trip earlier in the year but I guess it will come back.

 

[shark]

tune in next week for another edition of.....who did shark climb with this week!?

Dense says hi

[shark]

Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?

The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower

[TobyD]

Really need to sort the sleep, affecting the rest of life quite severely now. Had ok weekend so far though, if I get a decent chunk tonight I'll be a lot happier, if not I think I'll be in the chemist at lunch tomorrow :-(

I sympathise Duma, not sleeping, or sleeping well affects everything else, and is just purely annoying in its own right. I've been wondering about getting one of those gradual wake up / sleep light / alarms: might be worth trying? I assume you've already tried all the standard 'sleep hygiene' measures already?
During a bout of sustained insomnia years ago, i necked a zopliclone and a bottle of beer before bedtime after a few drinks earlier in the evening; out like a light for about 14 hours... I woke up feeling rank though.

[rginns]

STG - climb anything
MTG - 7A (3 months)
LTG - 7B

Weight - 73Kg, target 70Kg, 4wks

M - lunchtime - good 45 min sesh on Ash Pit traverse low. Evening - I hour on the board. Warm up then 4x4s on 35 degree wall
T - lunchtime - 40 min sesh on Ash Pit traverse low - evening - 75 leg raises, skin sore, so general conditioning - pull ups to warm up, 5 x 10 sets biceps curl, bench press etc
W - lunctime - 40 min on Ash pit traverse low. Evening - 1 hour on 35 degree board. Warm up, then 4x4s (failed on last 2 reps)
T - lunchtime - 45 min on Ash pit traverse low. Felt good in the lower temp conditions
F - met Tomtom for a quick session at W3 on the Square. Didn't feel brilliant, but fancied a potter anyhow. just started to warm up when I got on to the Square, a fairly easy good problem. On the last move I somehow pinged off (no idea how)
Feet landed on the mat, but the rest of me spazzed into the dip to the right. Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee, feels like a sprain, but managed to hobble off back to work. Felt like a right tit.
Evening - managed to drive to Bedford thanks to cruise control and not much traffic. applied compression, went to bed
S - Interruted night sleep. Woke up to a very painful knee. Couldn't weight it. Sat down all day. Applied Ice every 3 hours for 30mins. compression sock, kept it elevated. Paracetamol. Managed to limp out to a chinese restaurant in evening. painful
S - Bad night sleep. Woke up at 5.30 due to very painful neck and shoulder. Whiplash? took painkillers, it's slowly subsided through the day. Knee marginally better, I can now weight it. Think the ice and rest on Saturday did it good. Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.

I've no clue how I managed to drop the top of the square, I've done it a few times before. It was most likely just being a bit distracted. But anyway, it looks like I've knackered myself for the Torridon trip next week, even if I can climb I won't want to be falling on my knee it feels far too fragile at the moment.
It's fair to say I'm pretty pissed off with the situation but trying to remain positive.
Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.

[TobyD]

Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee,

Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.

Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.

Did you get any marked swelling and redness when you did it? Whatever the answer, I'd strongly advise seeing a physio (or  doctor with some interest in MSK) as soon as you can. I'm not going to start pointless conjecture on what it might be; someone needs to have a look at that as a precaution I'd say. Hope it improves!

[AndyR]

Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?

The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower

Fuck it - it's basically a tick - I'd take it...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - system static half crimp +8 kg. 4x4, very pleased. Low intensity PE, 1' on, 1' off x5 completed all the sets, very pleased! Dumbbell complex x2, trap work. Good session.
Tue - rest.
Wed - dumbbell complex warmup, standing ab wheel, 3x3, strong; ab wheel 1 paused set; muscle snatch 5x5, 36 kg;  cleans 5x5, 46 kg. Good session.
Thu - 30' boxing bag, climbing class. Abs DOMS.
Fri - cleans, snatch pulls, 5x5 46 kg. Anti rotation stuff. Trap work.
Sat - some one arm deadhangs, some board climbing. System dynamic, 2-6 and down x5 +8 kg, 1-6 and static x5 +2 kg. Boxing bag. Amazing.
Sun - rest.

Good week, generally satisfied. Increased volume for the half crimp system hangs, went from 8 to 16 sets, with two kg more. The Power of the Half Crimp. Body tension quite good, managed to do sets of 3 of standing ab wheel, which is good. In the past I'd already done it, but with a slightly hyperextended spine, which is not good. Now I always concentrate on maintaining a slight posterior pelvic tilt as prescribed by The Bible of T-Nation. It's much harder, as two days of abs DOMS proved. Lots of anti-rotation stuff.
PE seems good and I also tried some one arm hangs with good vibes.
But I can't emphasize enough how good is the boxing bag: it has everything you need for power AND conditioning, speed, muscular work, HIIT, mobility. It's the best thing in the world. Apart from the undercling projects on my board.
Probably best athletic shape in my life.

[tomtom]

F - met Tomtom for a quick session at W3 on the Square. Didn't feel brilliant, but fancied a potter anyhow. just started to warm up when I got on to the Square, a fairly easy good problem. On the last move I somehow pinged off (no idea how)
Feet landed on the mat, but the rest of me spazzed into the dip to the right. Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee, feels like a sprain, but managed to hobble off back to work. Felt like a right tit.
Evening - managed to drive to Bedford thanks to cruise control and not much traffic. applied compression, went to bed
S - Interruted night sleep. Woke up to a very painful knee. Couldn't weight it. Sat down all day. Applied Ice every 3 hours for 30mins. compression sock, kept it elevated. Paracetamol. Managed to limp out to a chinese restaurant in evening. painful
S - Bad night sleep. Woke up at 5.30 due to very painful neck and shoulder. Whiplash? took painkillers, it's slowly subsided through the day. Knee marginally better, I can now weight it. Think the ice and rest on Saturday did it good. Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.

I've no clue how I managed to drop the top of the square, I've done it a few times before. It was most likely just being a bit distracted. But anyway, it looks like I've knackered myself for the Torridon trip next week, even if I can climb I won't want to be falling on my knee it feels far too fragile at the moment.
It's fair to say I'm pretty pissed off with the situation but trying to remain positive.
Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.

really sorry about that Rick - I have spotters guilt, you kind of span around in mid air and went in an odd direction.. hopefully it will ease up.. :/

[shurt]

Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?

The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower

So youve done the route minus 4 hand moves at the start? Didn't realise you were that close...

[duncan]

Go Simon!

rginns: what Toby said.

STG: Shoulder maintenance exercises at least twice weekly. Steep bouldering or fingerboard twice weekly. Try a 7b.
MTG: tbc.
LTG: Font 7A. Sport 7b+. Something properly long, hard and free (and ideally in condition in August).

M - Westway bouldering to ~V3.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
W - Westway bouldering to ~V3.
T -
F -
S - Millstone, with the retired super-alpinist, the foreign correspondent, and the guru of Wadi Rum. Bond Street, Great North Road, Embankments 1-4, and Time for Tea original. I've no record of doing the latter before, felt a bit stern for E1, but perhaps I traversed too high or was just tired and a bit poorly.
S - Man ‘flu.

Easing back into things. Shoulder 70% and improving. Had intended to go sport climbing this weekend but forecast better oop north and not keen on the Peak offerings at my grades. On reflection Easy Trad. was the sensible choice.

Plan: more bouldering / start projecting something.

[Muenchener]

Time for Tea original. ... felt a bit stern for E1

It was a long time ago, but I recall thinking it was borderline E1/2. And being disappointed with myself for not questing out left instead.

[nai]

Time for Tea original

 felt a bit stern for E1

That was my experience too, in fact I wasn't entirely convinced that TfT itself is any harder just a bit run out.

[Ti_pin_man]

STG; 7a on actual rock, not plastic. oh shit going to Font in 6 weeks - maintain punter level and don't get injured.
MTG: continue to raise the plastic pyramid past peak of f7b

After climbing three days over the weekend my body was goosed.  Next climb was Wednesday night and once I dialled in at the wall I ticked a 7a-ish on the new plastic set.
Then next day did my core power set up to 100kg on the weights rack.  Friday was rest and travel and then Saturday I hit a new set 6b-7b and ticked 8 off the list so back to where I was.  Happy.  Now working through the font 7+8 app to pick some projects for the weekend  I am there. 
I've booked some early morning yoga sessions and also booked some sessions with the person who coached me last year to build up for weekend. 

[shark]

Shark: out of interest have you ever done 1st bolt to the top?

The second is very low - 4 hand moves in. Don't think I could forgive myself doing it from any lower

So youve done the route minus 4 hand moves at the start? Didn't realise you were that close...

Three times now and last go on the Monday

Does involve 10 foot moves though

[andy_e]

Do those ten moves faster and you're in. New training regime for you, learn to do this:

[rginns]

F - met Tomtom for a quick session at W3 on the Square. Didn't feel brilliant, but fancied a potter anyhow. just started to warm up when I got on to the Square, a fairly easy good problem. On the last move I somehow pinged off (no idea how)
Feet landed on the mat, but the rest of me spazzed into the dip to the right. Knew straight away I'd done something to my knee, feels like a sprain, but managed to hobble off back to work. Felt like a right tit.
Evening - managed to drive to Bedford thanks to cruise control and not much traffic. applied compression, went to bed
S - Interruted night sleep. Woke up to a very painful knee. Couldn't weight it. Sat down all day. Applied Ice every 3 hours for 30mins. compression sock, kept it elevated. Paracetamol. Managed to limp out to a chinese restaurant in evening. painful
S - Bad night sleep. Woke up at 5.30 due to very painful neck and shoulder. Whiplash? took painkillers, it's slowly subsided through the day. Knee marginally better, I can now weight it. Think the ice and rest on Saturday did it good. Managed to walk if knee kept straight. Any slight twist feels very painful. No visible swelling. Can't climb stairs properly. Impossible to bend down and sit on my ankles. Only right side of right knee affected.

I've no clue how I managed to drop the top of the square, I've done it a few times before. It was most likely just being a bit distracted. But anyway, it looks like I've knackered myself for the Torridon trip next week, even if I can climb I won't want to be falling on my knee it feels far too fragile at the moment.
It's fair to say I'm pretty pissed off with the situation but trying to remain positive.
Hopefully with rest it might miraculously heal itself in time but I'm not holding out much hope.

really sorry about that Rick - I have spotters guilt, you kind of span around in mid air and went in an odd direction.. hopefully it will ease up.. :/

Oh blimey Tom, it's not your fault I don't think you could have caught that anyway, like you say it was a bit of a weird off.
One of those things, I've got physio this week so hopefully I'll get an idea of what I need to do.
I can still be doing some hangs and core stuff so it's not all lost.

[tomtom]

In retrospect we could have had that edge (over the hole) padded out a bit more.. that said, that would have meant no second pad where you planted your side pretty heavily... which might have done some shoulder/rib damage otherwise... an odd fall though. Anyway.. fingers crossed...

My week (having not climbed the week before):

M:
Tu: Rockcity, Hull. First time I've been in 3-4 years. Since then upstairs has been refurbished with 'the abyss' and theres some other wall bit way down a load of corridors called the boiler room. If it were a night club, it'd be the room you were scared of going into.. but it wasn't that exciting I'm afraid. Much had changed physically about the place, but it still had the same atmosphere (make of that what you will). Still, only £9........ Moving on... I actually enjoyed myself. Got stuck into some crimpy 7A's - that were all small edges screwed onto the edge of small volumes - really nice (and it hurt to say that ).
We:
Th: Morning trip to ubicRon. Hope to nail Bigger Splash Directismma.. Pah... creaky old bastard mode instead. But made progress on Bigger Splash Sidepullissema version... hips in and pull hard old man... but still no cigar.
Fr: Wilton 3 with Rginns... Climbing wise rubbish TBH...
Sa:
Su: IKEA in the morning! Whoop whoop whoop whoop whoop. I know you can get a hot dog at the end as a reward for completing the stage, but.... Still, the bairn behaved himself. Thanks to my family IKEA shopping credits (tm) I managed to secure a late afternoon pass and legged it to Brownstones... remembered how to do Hanks Wall and zoomed up Pigswill variants..
Then got to work on Dezertion (F7A)... Its a daft problem. A high step with a poorish arete hold to an off balance barn door dyno for a sharp edge. But its a problem I should be able to do but can't. I got close, closer, close, further etc.. then as light failed found some microbeta in how I was holding the arete - and managed to do the harder eliminate version using a different starting hold (7B). Real last last last last go, getting dark, cut hands effort. Felt goooooood.

[standard]

tune in next week for another edition of.....who did shark climb with this week!?

Dense says hi

Don't spoil the surprise!

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A

M: Ab Ripper X
T: Indoors, bouldering and some FOC
W: Squash, got beaten by housemate
T: Ab Ripper X
F:
S: No outdoors this weekend as went out for my birthday. Really good session indoors in the morning, did a load of Reds (v4-6) and a white (v5-7) I'd worked before
S: Hungover squash round robin; beat one housemate, lost to another

Fairly productive week, getting out again this weekend 

[Murph]

Still no cigar on BSD? I am surprised. Weeks back you so nearly had it.  More rest days needed then give it hell?

[tomtom]

Still no cigar on BSD? I am surprised. Weeks back you so nearly had it.  More rest days needed then give it hell?

Too much time off - lost the little edge I had... it also makes my right elbow feel a little tweaky - so don't feel quite like going full beans on it...

[lagerstarfish]

I just overheard a TV ad for something called a "Shark Rocket Hand Stick"

I recon that if Shark (and everyone else at The Cove) shouts this loud enough at the right moment, he will stick the horn easily and romp to victory