[Footwork]

Goodbye youth

  Aren't you about 24?!

I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose... 

[Will Hunt]

STG: Regular training, Skin maintenance
MTG: Red Baron Roof, FA Project
LTG: ?

M:
T: Last evening climbing session of the season. Bouldering at Caley. Just pottering really. Did some smeary eliminates and variations on Otley Wall, including this thing which is touted as being 7B. Pull on on monos and then a chuck to a big fat pocket and an easy top out. Didn't feel anything like 7B. 6C+? Also had a play on the brushed eliminate to the right of Syrett's Saunter and got a good sequence figured out. Not ideal connies, would like to come back and finish that off. Then out for a curry.
W:
T:
F:
S: Panorama Crag. Spent some time taking pictures and then did some routes. Mostly 6s with a couple of bouldery 7as.
S:

Last year I ended up quite close to RBR a couple of times but ran out of skin and connies in the end. I had the problem fairly well dialled and could do the lower bit into the stand with a decent success rate. I dropped the last move to match the arête a couple of times. So that would seem to suggest that power endurance is my problem? What's the posh term that people use now? AeroPow? AnPow? AnCap? What does that even mean?

I'm wondering where I'll find myself with it this season. I've done very little bouldering over the summer, and last summer I spend the whole summer doing easier bouldering. The last new 7th grade problem I did was back in May if you discount that soft thing at Caley on Tuesday!) and have been trad climbing mostly with the odd bit of sport climbing. I don't feel particularly weak or anything but I haven't tested myself on any difficult bouldering. I'm expecting that when I go back and try RBR it'll take a session or two to refamiliarise that bottom section, or else I'll find myself completely weak, and I hope I don't get disheartened if it all starts to feel like being back to square one. My skin is in good shape at the moment and I'm conscious that I don't want to burn through loads of it by working RBR repeatedly. It grinds a few very particular parts of the skin on the palm and thumbs but is quite friendly on the tips.

I'd quite like to do it as it will more than likely mark a bouldering high point for me with a problem that definitely is 7C+. All the 7Cs I've done have been super soft.

Regular board sessions start on Tuesday this week so I need to try and use these to greatest effect. There are 10 hand movements on RBR, with a big cut loose and a couple of big right hand slaps up the final arête. So I suppose I need to try and replicate something like that. Maybe a lap of the decent warm up holds, a cut loose on a compression move, and then a low left hand and some big slaps up decent holds with the right hand.

The FA project requires two fingers on the right hand made of titanium, the footwork of a Russian ballerina, skin made of leather, connies from Khute, and the will to carry at least 3 pads up a big hill. Fuck knows where that's going to come from.

[Will Hunt]

Goodbye youth

  Aren't you about 24?!

I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose... 

Cheque, you have to bear in mind that he is a massive hypochondriac. When I lived with him we'd be watching the news or whatever, and there'd be a report on about some deadly virus or other that was sweeping the world. Bird Flu, or Ebola or some such. Everyone would glance at Ben out of the corner of their eyes and, sure enough, he'd be there with his face as white as a sheet, eyes like fearful saucers, with the awful realisation setting in that he did indeed have all the symptoms of this terrible new affliction, and that he must now have only days to live. Absolutely hilarious.

Sometimes if you noticed he had a sniffle, you could make up a completely fictitious malady and talk about it loudly with a friend within his earshot. Off he'd scurry to look it up on Wikipedia.

And then there was the time that I saw him eating sprouts and raw garlic as a cure for his flu-like symptoms before going over to his girlfriend's house.

And don't ask about the time he went to the doctors convinced he had ME!

[moose]

Goodbye youth

  Aren't you about 24?!

I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose... 

could be worse... you could look like him.... or even worse, be him.

Still, I might be getting worryingly decrepit, but the gradual disintegration doesn't seem to have unduly affected my climbing (thankfully, as I only started sport climbing in earnest around 5 years ago - being irredeemably past-it before I started would be a bit tragic). 

I just have to come to terms with the fact that the way I only used to feel at the end of an arduous fortnight climbing holiday - broken but still operating well enough out of stubborn habit - is how I will likely feel for the rest of my life!

[SA Chris]

Stop whining youths. One day when you are really old and knackered you'll look back and realise you were bitching about fuck all.

Youth is wasted on the young, etc.

[webbo]

Mon. Board did 3 new things plus attempts on other projects. 3 sets of repeaters to finish. Bike 1 hr 3 mins 17.9 miles intervals.
Tue. Nothing looking after grandson while daughter went for an interview.
Wed. Board a bit crap did one new thing amongst the flailing. Bike 72.48 miles 4 hrs 11 mins.
Thu. Bike 31.94 miles 1 hr 51 mins intervals.
Fri. Went to Camphill on the NY moors. 4 hour plus after leaving the car I staggered back with wet feet, a cockled ankle and completely boxed after dragging myself and 2 mats through head high man eating bracken. Also managed some bouldering and was pleased to find that the NY moors random grading system is still in force. Pub for landlords birthday, staggered home at 1.30 not been out that late in years.
Sat. Knackered. Visiting relatives and shopping.
Sun. Board 30 warm up problems then 5 sets of repeaters 5 secs on 5 off with 36.5 lbs added. Bike 18 miles 1 hr 5 mins steady riding.

[36chambers]

Last year I ended up quite close to RBR a couple of times but ran out of skin and connies in the end. I had the problem fairly well dialled and could do the lower bit into the stand with a decent success rate. I dropped the last move to match the arête a couple of times. So that would seem to suggest that power endurance is my problem? What's the posh term that people use now? AeroPow? AnPow? AnCap? What does that even mean?

If you can make it over to the Depot, I'd recommend training on the roofs and barrel. Much more similar to RBR than a board. 

Ancap: (30-40 seconds of climbing (12-15 moves) with rest = double time on wall) x 4. Then 10 min rest, repeat.
Anpow: (5-7 moves with rest less than or equal to time on) x 4. 10 min rest, repeat.

I was doing loads of that stuff, purely on the roofs, when I did RBR. At the very least you learn how to fight hard when climbing.

You could easily set a problem similar to RBR, 10 moves (~50 seconds climbing, according to vimeo) with ~90 secs rest, repeat.

I don't suppose you've filmed yourself on RBR? I'd bet my bottom dollar that on your best goes you've come off because you've been on it for way in excess of a minute. No need to train, just climb quicker 

[nai]

I find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floor

I'd be happy to do BM from the break I think but not Proud Whore which looks waaaay better than BM. Gonna have to work it out, sure it'll just be down to micro beta and it'll all fall into place. Hopefully.

[shark]

I find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floor

I'd be happy to do BM from the break I think but not Proud Whore which looks waaaay better than BM. Gonna have to work it out, sure it'll just be down to micro beta and it'll all fall into place. Hopefully.

Push-up feels gnarly, sharp and nasty to begin with (E56c says it all) but strangely enjoyable once wired

[nai]

Maybe I'll try it again tomorrow. Was quite relieved to find it busy today so I could have a low key play on OT.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[36chambers]

STG: Regular training, Skin maintenance

Just so you know, the way you talk about skin maintenance is akin to Footwork talking about his latest sniffle... 

[James Malloch]

If you can make it over to the Depot, I'd recommend training on the roofs and barrel. Much more similar to RBR than a board. 

As an aside, is the beta for RBR (stand) just get the LH side-pull, RH around the arête, and then just campus up with the right until it's high enough to get your feet up (only video I've watched of it)?

Or is there a nicer way?

I had little play on it last time and it seemed like a world away. I'm normally reasonably happy around that grade (though only just getting back on the grit after a year or two off it).

[36chambers]

If you can make it over to the Depot, I'd recommend training on the roofs and barrel. Much more similar to RBR than a board. 

As an aside, is the beta for RBR (stand) just get the LH side-pull, RH around the arête, and then just campus up with the right until it's high enough to get your feet up (only video I've watched of it)?

Or is there a nicer way?

I had little play on it last time and it seemed like a world away. I'm normally reasonably happy around that grade (though only just getting back on the grit after a year or two off it).

I know people who prefer the campus method, although I've never tried it myself. I place a high right heel and slap my RH up to the high good part on the arete. There's definitely a sweet spot for the heel somewhere. Furthermore, I find Red Baron quite conditions dependant, it feels pretty stiff in the sun.     

[Will Hunt]

Ancap: (30-40 seconds of climbing (12-15 moves) with rest = double time on wall) x 4. Then 10 min rest, repeat.
Anpow: (5-7 moves with rest less than or equal to time on) x 4. 10 min rest, repeat.

So AnCap and AnPow, are those what you'd recommend and a description of how to do them? How maximal are these 30-40 seconds of climbing supposed to be? Enough so that you can just about, or rather just not, complete a set?

You could easily set a problem similar to RBR, 10 moves (~50 seconds climbing, according to vimeo) with ~90 secs rest, repeat.

On the board, like? How maximal would this be? That's AnCap, yeah?

I don't suppose you've filmed yourself on RBR? I'd bet my bottom dollar that on your best goes you've come off because you've been on it for way in excess of a minute. No need to train, just climb quicker 

I don't think I have any footage of my good goes. I did have a couple of goes where I thought, I'll climb this really fast, and I ended up getting nowhere. You have to get that left hand on the crimp in just the right position, and if you do the cut loose wildly then it's game over. I know you have to cut out the "dead space" in your climbing, but I think climbing efficiently is optimal, rather than fast.

As an aside, is the beta for RBR (stand) just get the LH side-pull, RH around the arête, and then just campus up with the right until it's high enough to get your feet up (only video I've watched of it)?

Or is there a nicer way?

I had little play on it last time and it seemed like a world away. I'm normally reasonably happy around that grade (though only just getting back on the grit after a year or two off it).

For Red Baron, reach up the arête and get the first decent bit on it (some people stack pads to get there). Left hand on the sidepull. Pull on and immediately chuck your right heel on a high slope around the arête. It's really obvious when you look from the ground but quite hard to find when you've pulled on. Then slap like fuck up the arête. Then slap some more. Once you feel like you've slapped enough, it's feet off and a graunch to get them up onto the lip of the roof. Different people do different stuff. For the stand I put right toe on the polished flat bit, left toe on some crozzle on the lip, and then left hand quickly to match your hand. If you don't barn door then you've done it. Some mental people who can't layback put their right toe low and do a heel/toe hook on the side pull. Vile beta!

[Footwork]

Goodbye youth

  Aren't you about 24?!

I'm 26 I'll have you know! It feels as though my body hit age warp within the past year. At this rate of decrepitude i'll soon be up for a piss every 3am. Now I'm starting to sound like Moose... 

could be worse... you could look like him.... or even worse, be him.

Don't bring yourself down I hope one day I can climb those lofty sport grades with the same tenacity.

[moose]

Don't bring yourself down I hope one day I can climb those lofty sport grades with the same tenacity.

Cheers fella, got a feeling this old tortoise is due to be put in a straw-filled cardbox box for his winter hibernation: first numb-fingered routes session of the year at Kilnsey on Sunday.  Given my Reynauds and how wet this country is, I have a horrible feeling that the last week or so's ticks of Scary Canary (nice to do something I have walked past so often but been too yellow to try) and Last Action Hero (a bit contrived feeling but such good sustained climbing) might well have been finales for both my year's routes and bouldering.

[tomtom]

I know you have to cut out the "dead space" in your climbing, but I think climbing efficiently is optimal, rather than fast.

If you're on a roof - the meters running (fast) every second you're under there - so climbing efficently IS fast. Even I can get 60 seconds out of my arms before they are spent - and I have f*ck all endurance...

[36chambers]

So AnCap and AnPow, are those what you'd recommend and a description of how to do them? How maximal are these 30-40 seconds of climbing supposed to be? Enough so that you can just about, or rather just not, complete a set?

Disclaimer: I don't have any experience with peaking and whatnot, the numbers were plucked from Barrows' PDF. I followed the numbers and found both the AnCap and AnPow "workouts" to be a fun and structured way of getting a very decent (and novel) level of worked from a session (I was happy if I was failing at the end of the 4th set). And you learn how to try harder.

You could easily set a problem similar to RBR, 10 moves (~50 seconds climbing, according to vimeo) with ~90 secs rest, repeat.

On the board, like? How maximal would this be? That's AnCap, yeah?

I was still talking about climbing the roofs in the depot. Train for what you want to do by doing things very similar to what you want to do? Just checked the footage of me on RBR and it actually took me 30 seconds (the 50 sec was from Stubbs' vimeo). I suppose we shouldn't forget that you've practically done it already and you'll probably get up it on the first cold session you have  

[Will Hunt]

36C, yeah I know really that the depot barrel is where it's at and more specific. I'll try and get there but the board is better for my time poor needs, especially if I can get a psyched crew regularly on a Tuesday.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


Strength phase

M. Finished bolting the next new route at crag x, a cool crimpy 7b+/c ish. No time to try it.
T.
W. Listless sesh on pilbox wall trying Millenium Drive. start to undercut, low psyche/energy.
T.
F.
S. Mill sesh in evening. 30 board. Polished off my easy and medium 'Mecca crux replicas'. Need to make harder versions. Decent sesh.
S. Pillbox wall for a quick hour. Met Mark? Fingers feeling tired from yesterday's mill sesh. Best go on millenium drive managed start to the span to the whisky bitch hold. Core workout in evening.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A

M:
T: Arch, did a bit of bouldering, finger a bit tweaky. Did a load of FOC and press-ups. Finger felt so much better after the session of FOC than it did before! Pretty chuffed.
W: Squash, won the first three games then lost the next six. I blame my sweaty squash racquet handle and the golfball-sized blister I put on the ball of my foot 
T:
F:
S: Waves at Lulworth too big for DWS (or us too pussy) so Cuttings Boulderfield. Did Pinky Power 7A and got Relativity 7A as the light was fading. Really good tick, totally un-smooth video of it here:
S: Too windy for DWS again, ended up at Dancing Ledge. Did Haunted by a Million Screams 6c+ which was very good if a bit crimpy at the top for my finger. Chilled in the sun for the rest of the day 

Tuesday wall session was encouraging and weekend was good, some crimpy climbing which hurt at the time but fine afterwards. Finger feeling improved from a week ago.

[Luke Owens]

Finger feeling improved from a week ago.

Good to hear buddy!  Quality power noises on the video!

[Coops_13]

Finger feeling improved from a week ago.

Good to hear buddy!  Quality power noises on the video!

cheers mate 

[James Malloch]

Cheers Will/36C - I didn't try the heel method but will give it a go next time I'm there. My forearms are still grit rashed from trying the campus method two weeks ago so it's good to have some different beta. We must have chose the wrong video to watch...

I'd be keen to give it (and the SS) a go again too so if you need extra pads/spotters then let me know.

[nai]

I find that bit really hard, not that good and it put me off the route from the floor

I'd be happy to do BM from the break I think but not Proud Whore which looks waaaay better than BM. Gonna have to work it out, sure it'll just be down to micro beta and it'll all fall into place. Hopefully.

Push-up feels gnarly, sharp and nasty to begin with (E56c says it all) but strangely enjoyable once wired

So, been and managed the moves today. Sod larking about with a thumb for the RH, crimp the bollocks off of it, twist RF and stand up into the LH sidepull.  Taking RH gaston leaves me too stretched so use a pinch under the roof to get RF on and stand up.  Felt ok but still more gnarly, sharp and nasty than enjoyable.