[webbo]

Mon. Bike hill repeats X 5 22.78 miles 1hr 31 mins.
Tue. Trying projects managed a couple of things.
Wed. Bike 1 hr 2 mins 17.92 miles intervals. Then Dolby Forrest with daughter and grandson, family ascent of Addlestone.
Thu. Board just went on to try 2 problems which I did.
Fri. Peak went to Bob's roof with Bob. Did about 8 problems, finished battered with no skin on fingers and right shin.
Sat/Sun family stuff with grandson.

[shark]

Yes hes got it in for me irrespective.

If I had it in for you I'd be outside your house at 2am slashing your tyres, not making tongue-in-cheek wisecracks on the web about not taking advice the Oak and using it

Umm ...thanks for clarifying that Dave. I think

[dave]

I'm not trying to be down on you, I'm trying to light a fire under you.

I'd be made up if you managed the route by a low percentage bloody minded war of attrition, I mean fuck me nobody could accuse you of not putting the hours in, but I thought that wasn't the point of picking a bouldery route that would force you to go bouldering and address bouldering weaknesses. Elephant in the room etc.

[SA Chris]

Having said this, the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse for most people as far as i am aware.

Is it the cause of failure though? or is it the attrition from all the upwards climbing.

[Coops_13]

STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A

M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: The cliff with 36C, also met andy_e  Got beta sorted for Crusis, almost sent but sloper too sweaty (for me). Did C&A Traverse, worst 7A at the cliff? Failed to repeat several things
S: Burbage North, not feeling too strong. Flailed on Boyager and then went and tried a couple of the problems right of the Terrace. Did a 6C...

Poor week of sluggishness, finger still improving which is promising. I do feel really weak though

[Will Hunt]

worst 7A at the cliff?

Stu's Roof standing start (why is that even listed as a problem in it's own right?)
 

[36chambers]

worst 7A at the cliff?

Stu's Roof standing start (why is that even listed as a problem in it's own right?)

Morrell's Wall Traverse, without a doubt.

Stu's stand is excellent Will. Did you just find it hard? 

[andy_e]

36C is right, Stu's stand is a great warm-up in its own right.

[r-man]

Hardest move on Stu's Roof!

[Coops_13]

worst 7A at the cliff?

Stu's Roof standing start (why is that even listed as a problem in it's own right?)

Morrell's Wall Traverse, without a doubt.

C&A's pockets are even sharper than the ones on that traverse, at least you finish up a classic on that one too!

[petejh]

..
Yes hes got it in for me irrespective. Thank you pointing out that the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse. Ill add that the crux of JR is also sideways as is most of Moffatrocity

Can I point out that the redpoint crux is font 7a/+ and the lower half is font 7b/+    And that you barely boulder that hard on limestone.
.. and that increased strength directly 'improves fitness' by way of the same moves not demanding from the stronger climber as much energy as they do from the weaker climber.

You've already the endurance of a marathon runner, but also the strength and power of one. Pretty well established that the quickest gains are made by working your weakest aspects out of strength/fitness/technique/head. Getting stronger than the route would have been your quickest path to sending it (or perhaps to you getting inured, in which case fair enough to you for eking out every last microdrop of fitness and avoiding power).

I hope you do it too,  But talk sense!

[Muenchener]

I have no opinion on what shark should do to improve his chances on the Oak.

STG: Moon Board 6B+
MTG (2016 not looking particularly realistic): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Oktoberfest with work
T: Boulderwelt. Rather poor & desultory session. Not surprising see above.
   Boulderwelt has installed a Moonboard, complete with LEDs & gimmicky app, but my carefully filtered playlist of soft 6B+'s kept being disrupted by people coming along and lighting up some 7C horrorshow. Need to try again some time when it's quieter.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Not exactly a blazingly strong session, which is unsurprising considering the preceding four days: bouldering comp, big bike ride, biggest piss-up of the year in lieu of a rest day, longer than usual bouldering session. But the main reason I do routes at the wall on Wednesday is address book maintenance*. Was climbing with a chap I had't met before. He was a competent climber and belayer & we got on well. Turns out he's just getting back into climbing after a few years climbing related break - just as I was a few years ago - and similarly needs to rebuild his climbing partner address book. And is a former Kochel local and mate of Toni Lamprecht. Win.
T: Bike one hour.
F: ditto

S: City of Rocks: Dolomites sport climbing. Warmed up then had some goes on a nice looking 7b that went like this: 20 moves 7a-ish to a semi-reasonable shake-out -> brick hard crux -> no hands rest -> pleasant 6b finish that it would be a shame to fluff.
Did the 7a section ok with a couple of rests. Felt like I had no chance at all on the crux in isolation - my mate who has done lots of 7b's thought it was tough for the grade too - quite apart from building up the power endurance to do it after the pumpy 7a climbing to get to it.
So, 7b: hard but feasible if I can find the right one to project. But to get up one this year I would have to find one that isn't four hours drive from home, isn't at two thousand metres, stays dry throughout the autumn, doesn't have a totally ridiculous crux ... and then get lucky with the weather and the availability of motivated partners. Possible, but not probable.

S: Sella Pass: autumn arrives. Fog & light rain all day. Luckily we were staying at the very comfortable Rifugio Valentini (run by the wife of the City of Rocks guidebook author, great food, recommended). Much time chilling out; spent an hour stretching and playing with the sling trainer my partner had brought with him; went for a walk in the afternoon to look at some more sectors in City of Rocks. Lots of great looking stuff there, definitely worth going again. In summer.

* an important aspect of climbing for which Kelvin is my hero and role model

[Will Hunt]

I have no opinion on what shark should do to improve his chances on the Oak.

Are you sure you've come to the right thread? 

[Muenchener]

I know 

[petejh]

Off topic but..

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


Strength phase

M.
T.
W. Pilbox wall after work. Good sesh trying Millenium, consistently holding the span into whisky bitch.
T. Flew to NI
F. Dalkey Quarry Dublin with GF. Good place! Easy trad^TM
S. Lower Cove, Mournes with GF and her daughter. More easy trad^TM, did Brewer's Gloom, nice route!
S.
M. Spent hours scoping lines on a rope at crag x. Eventually put lower-off in another newie, might be an 8, will find out in a few weeks when I'm next over.

Knackered from 3.30am shitty dog wake-up. Bouldering plans this week getting trashed by tiredness, not good just before starting to try Mecca again.

[kelvin]

Kelvin is my hero and role model

I hadn't realised things had taken such a big turn for the worse. I'm sure there must be a local Doc who specialises in delusional behavior.

* as an aside - you're plenty good enough for 7b if you're still climbing like you were when we went to WCJ. Like you say, it's a matter of finding the right one and I think also, having a partner that gives you the confidence to chuck yourself at it.

[36chambers]

I have no opinion on what shark should do to improve his chances on the Oak.

Are you sure you've come to the right thread? 

Will power club even continue when Shark finally does it??

[tomtom]

36C is right, Stu's stand is a great warm-up in its own right.

And it's 7A+....

[tomtom]

Yes hes got it in for me irrespective.

If I had it in for you I'd be outside your house at 2am slashing your tyres, not making tongue-in-cheek wisecracks on the web about not taking advice the Oak and using it

Umm ...thanks for clarifying that Dave. I think

That was me... in revenge for spurning me for Mina....

[tommytwotone]

Goal - Font 7anything by arrival of TTT Jnr mk 2 (Feb 2017)


M - Started new job, information overload. Shattered once I got home.
T - More of the same.
W - Depot after work, decent run around V3-V5 Reds, made harder by ridiculous temp / sweatiness.
T - Nowt
F - Nowt
S - Nowt, nice trip to local library "Lego club" though.
S - Pass out agreed, decent weather...obviously it took me till about 1pm to actually get out of the house, then when I got out roadworks prevented me from being able to leave my village. After about 30 mins escaped by a different route and ended up taking easy option and going to Woodhouse Scar, only to get spanked (again) on Johnny Longer (6c+), a pretty arbitrary sit start to a 6a, but still giving me trouble. Got in a bit of a huff, sacked it off and decided to check out West Vale on way back. Probably a bit of an acquired taste, but for those seeking a bit of "old skool" fun I reckon it's decent. Did U2 Wall (6b+ apparently) and then got stuck into a 7a sit start to the Scott Is Bent arete. Reckon it's a go-er, it's just pretty highball / scary so hopefully get back there with more pads and a gullible / willing spotter.


 

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Plas Power - Did a few easy routes and helped out mate who is new to climbing. Messed about on a couple of my old harder problems on the 20' board and did a problem on the 40'.

W: Rest

T: Re-equipped an old 7a

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: First session on new proj I bolted last Sunday. Harder than I expected, took the whole session to work out the moves but psyched to do them all. Felt about 7b+/c but hard to tell until links are done!