[shark]

Not intending doing any climbing or training this weekend so might as well start it now

10.13 - 11.1

M.

T. Up with Luke Dawson. Warmish but drizzly and blowing in when we got there - catwalk treacherously slippy. Felt tired and unmotivated Cons x 3. Drizzle departed and good breeze on the crag which took edge off humidity. Better conditions than last week though. Cons x 3. Go 1 Dogged to horn then led horn to top. Go 2 Still sunny on rock but felt OK - Ground to thru horn and felt good above going right but got the sloper in the wrong place then managed to get tips into big undercut but not well enough to pull into rest. Happy to get through throwe mover again - an Autumn highpoint    but shame I didnt get to top travere as felt reasonably fresh when came off Had a sneaky crag nap with sun in face. Nice Go 3 Ground to touching horn. Rested on bolt then tried to do second to top but rock felt glassy and had foot slippages so came off setting up for throw and came down. Go 4 Ground to touching horn. Tried from 2nd bolt but fell off throw. Then did throw to midway across top traverse. Then tried pull straight back on twice to do top traverse but couldnt. Two minutes rest and did top traverse to belay. Luke did GBH and looked good on Rainshadow. Maddy loooked good on Bat Route

W.

T.

F. Noon. Luke drove. Tom and Jerome came too Cooler temps - low teens but humidity still around 70% but an on-crag wind. Good but not mint. 2 x Cons. Go 1 Felt glassy dogging up - slipped off horn with both hands on it. Came down. Discovered toes of Whites had gone soft after just 5 sessions Go 2 did in 3 sections. Ground to undercut by 3rd Throw to horn. Horn to top Go 3 Ground to grabbing but not holding horn - kept having to readjust feet. 2 mins rest then 2nd bolt to midway across the top traverse Go 4 2nd bolt to top 

S. Moving some slabs

S.

No alcohol all week 

Generally feel lacklustre, unmotivated and sleepy. Back starting to play up. Reaping the result of neglecting stretching for last 6 months. Also got an elbow twinge on Tuesday but seemed to clear up with icing. Fingers generally achey and swollen joints kept at bay with massage. Weight heading very gradually downwards.

Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.

Signed up for Malham on Monday with Steve and possibly the following Friday depending on things

[Duma]

Nice one on 2nd to top shark!

[shark]

Nice one on 2nd to top shark!

Thanks.

There's only 4 hand moves to get to that point but also 10 foot moves which amounts to over 20secs

[nai]

Good link, simon.

Likewise I'm done for the week:

goals -  Aberration, Body Machine?, Obscene Toilet, OSing, Trad.

Mon - debated all the way to the Tor whether to try BM or OT, relieved to find the start of BM busy and happy to get on OT.  Even happier to do it 3rd go, first being a warm up and having dropped it post throw on the second. Had a quick play on The Toilet before deciding against it.

Tue - back to try BM, eventually managed the moves on the lower wall.  Did break to break with one fall but will extend the draw at the chipped pocket in future so it can be clipped from below, confident I can get that link again.  Linked top bulge but still haven't settled on a sequence for the traverse. Positive session, psyche for this restored.

Wed - Took wife's car to garage, jogged really slowly 2km to Foundry, bouldered for a while then 3x10 mins AeroCap, jogged 2km very slowly back to collect car.

Thu - rest  (Should have been heading to Wales with a trad rack but the forecast looked a bit iffy).

Fri - Moat.  At last, been trying to get back for 2 years having come close to Let The Tripe Increase.  Cool with a strong breeze. Mint.
Onsighted Two Sheep to Leicester by the skin of my teeth then had a working go on LTTI.  Found crux easier than I remembered, the grim crimp ain't so grim after pulling on Tor crimps, obviously.
1st RP was a complete disaster but a quick rework of the initial groove, the rest and the crux setup then I did it with minimum fuss.

Sat - slept badly and woke up with a sore back
had had to abandon plans for Kilnsey but made it to Two Tier.  Back on Aberration:
first go warming up, reworked crux sequence, felt solid.
1st RP - fell on crux, couldn't get new sequence to work again.  Reverted to original but found use of a newly spotted foothold quite handy.
2nd RP - through crux, messed feet up, fought through sidepulls but just missed making what should be the last fluffable move.
Getting weary now
3rd RP - got to crux and just couldn't lock in on the gaston.
4th RP - almost off not quite locking in enough on gaston then on every move through to 1st sidepull then missed a foothold again.
Realised why that move's proving harder now, it's a different setup position due to the handy, newly-spotted foothold.

Would have been nice to get it to top off the week but still been a good week, two routes off the WIP list and good progress on two others.  Weather needs to play nice for a few weeks now.

Sun - Rest

[shark]

Lot of volume there nai   

[nai]

pardon?

[shark]

pardon?

4 hardish days out of 7.

I'm down to 2

[dave]

Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.

Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".

 

[shark]

Ben will always be Ben Moon, and the rest of us will never be Ben Moon.

[Duma]

Sounds like a great week nai, nice one!

[Murph]

Goals:
Big goal - Picnic Sarcastic.
Grit – Grit 7 specifically Piss & G.
Lime - Solid 7B+ maybe 7C should be within me this year.
Training - 50kgs for 10s on small BM edge and 1-4-7 campus. (PBs 40.5kg & 1-4-6)
M-Rest. Built a sort of replica of Advance Training in my garage for a rainy day.
T-I had Rubicon pretty much to myself and my 10 month old. YYFY moment on BSD. The fourth 7B of my life (if you count Man of Steel) and the third in the past three weeks. I really love lime!
W-Rubicon again with the boy. A bit of a crowd today though. Was trying Press and though the first go felt pretty solid (surprised myself by reaching the higher RH hold) repeated efforts failed to make much advance on this. Think I need to be further from the wall and quicker with the correct foot movements.

Consolation prizes of Bigger Tail 7A & Bigger Splash 7A.
Then went to see if Red or Dead was dry – it sort of was but not quite. Made the first big move then greased off the LH and landed arse cheek first on that nasty rock underneath. Called it a day.
T-Resting my sorry arse.
F-Play on Trackside boulder for a while (has anyone ever done Strawberries in trainers? I haven’t). Then got word that Blackwell was bone so headed over for revenge on Red or Dead. As the kids slept or ate in the car I made a fairly hurried ascent of RoD. I’ve now done 24 Font 7s up from just 8 two months ago. Did I mention I love lime!?
S-Crap night’s sleep. Dawn raid on Rubicon (why – the grit was begging for it!?) that was pleasant but I could make no impression on Kudos Traverse. I don’t know why it felt so hard - the lack of sleep, the lack of skill, the hardness? Maybe it was the lack of beans and of not (to quote nibs) “pulling as hard as I possibly could”?
Later I found out that the reason for the fail was none of these things….it was that I’ve come down with the plague.
S-Plague.

Weight – 63.1 average. About right.

[fried]

No alcohol all week 

  indeed!

M/ T - Nothing
W - Inddors, trying to focus on some steeper stuff, with relative success, only wandered off onto something more vertical a couple of times.
Th - Nothing
Fr - Planned to go indoors, but slept badly, nearly had my first old man afternoon snooze.
Sa - Nothing

Su - Canche aux merciers. Warmed up quickly then got straight onto Tirroir secret https://bleau.info/canche/3625.html, Did it in about 5 goes, didn't, reckon I could do it almost every go now, despite taking about 5 years to get it.

2 goes on Jeu des Jambes, did the traverse both times, but fluffed the end. Did loads of easier stuff, had goes on a couple of harder projects, which seemed easier than last time I tried, probably due to a sudden drop in temperature.

Tried Bobol's come back https://bleau.info/canche/3633.htmlhttps://bleau.info/canche/3633.html, and suprised myself by managing to pull onto it, shoul be a nice benchmarking problem. Excellent day in all, felt good, bit more confident at taking higher falls.

Not working tomorrow and connies look good.

[tomtom]

M: Planks (each side and front x 2, 30 secs)
Tu: Small deadhang routine
We: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..). Play on Kudos and B.Splash...
Th: rest
Fr: Rublycon. Warm - but OK out of the sun. No more progress on either really...
Sa: Hull to watch the football.
Su: Awful nights sleep - woke up early, had the shits, headache, shivers. Better when Lemsipped up...

Next week is going to see little/no climbing as its three days fieldwork, followed by trip to London to see the inlaws coming back on Sat...

Been quite a stressful week - lots of minor incidents/stuff happened. Really wanted to get out today - but body said no way...

[Will Hunt]

STG: Regular training, Skin maintenance
MTG: Red Baron Roof, FA Project
LTG: ?

M

T: Board session in the evening. Mainly repeating old problems. Felt a bit unfamiliar at first but got back into it nicely. Bearing in mind what 36C had said about problems of approx 10 moves, I started looking at creating one but with little success. Having to do downclimb bits which always end up being quite falloffable even though they're not that desperate. Will have another go this coming Tuesday.

W:

T: Volunteering day with the YWT in Crookrise plantation. Took advantage of being allowed into the plantation and knocked off early. Drove to the top and had a nice 10 min walk in to Faerie's Chest. As I arrived there was a heavy shower which soaked the top but the start of Pixie Tits started dry. Played on the moves of the sit and could do the first press into the high left hand crimp OK but got nowhere with Stubbs' beta from This Is Yorkshire. Found out later that his beta is toss and it's more commonly done as an awkward dyno after the first press move. Feels nails. Once the to dried did the stand and the traverse start. About 6A+ and 6B respectively.

F: 3 pints and 2 mojitos.

S: Felt like shit most of the day! Doesn't take much these days.

S: Panorama Crag in the Dales. Flashed or sort of flashed a couple of bouldery 7as and some 6cs.

[kelvin]

nearly had my first old man afternoon snooze.

Not sure if this is a NNFN or YYFY

I started at twenty, seemed to come free with the first mortgage.

[Dolly]

M HIT
T Wave lunchtime. Despite 2 days off I felt tired after a rubbish night's sleep. Managed to twice fall off the last move of a level 3 I hadnt done.
W Skating at lunchtime. Did a frontside snapback gnarler (not sure what they're called in modern skate language) but only on the beginners half pipe. 20 minute Kettlebell HIT class at the gym in the evening.
T Shed in the evening. Brilliant as ever
F
S Gym core
S Roadside Wall. About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess -  well cold enough to see your breath when I got there. Managed Free Range Abattoir which I'm pleased about as the first move felt miles. Obvs trashed my skin on it. Crossed the road to do Fudge which is quite butch.


Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great

[Duma]

Goals:
Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June

Body Audit: Shoulder ok, knee pretty much fine, finger still on the mend.

M: Bloc eve for a change, tired from work but gained a bit of psyche from somewhere fresh. Did a bunch of yellows which I think are meant to be mid 6s to low 7s, plus a great white that was maybe 7B. Holds are still filthy though, do they not sell brushes or something?
T: TCA eve, bunch of blues (low 6s) then failed a bit on the black 7B+ on the mothership before bailing. Finger not happy.
W: nothing
T: TCA eve, crap session really, managed the yellow on the mothership (7A+) that I'd been avoiding to protect finger, with no ill effects, but went backwards on the black and the green, sacked it off and did the whole set of blues instead. On the bright side, finger seemed a bit better.
F: nothing
S: took Chloe to TCA for a couple of hours, just a few easy bits for me.
S: nothing

Another easy week, feeling pretty flat with lack of sleep and injury. Meh.

69kg

[IS2]

Summer holiday of a couple of weeks not training or climbing, chilling traveling in France, finished mid September. Did 6 board sessions up to the start of this week to nip up a bit. Now preparing for Autumn / Winter trips Sicily, Rodellar, Tremp perhaps a couple of weeks in Font.  Recalled that this was a good way to keep on plan so back on it.
Goals: Onsight long routes up to 7b, single day redpoints at 7b+ / 7c perhaps the odd 8a if things go well.
Daily: Evening stretch and core session.
Monday: 10 x23 m routes at Sunderland average grade 6c
Tuesday: Boulders at DCC
Wednesday: Rest day ... loafing and sleeping Squats and foot rehab session.
Thursday: 8 x (20 - 25m) routes at Newton Aycliffe average grade 6c+
Friday: Rest day ... loafing and sleeping tiny bit of gardening .. Squats and foot rehab session.
Saturday: 9 x ( 20-25m) routes at Newton Aycliffe average grade 7a
Sunday: Rest day... mainly loafing... squats and foot rehab session plus first revisit of pinch and finger strength sessions.

Not a bad week but need to ramp up the intensity. Good to be back leading routes.

[shark]

Not intending doing any climbing or training this weekend so might as well start it now

10.13 - 11.1

M.

T. Up with Luke Dawson. Warmish but drizzly and blowing in when we got there - catwalk treacherously slippy. Felt tired and unmotivated Cons x 3. Drizzle departed and good breeze on the crag which took edge off humidity. Better conditions than last week though. Cons x 3. Go 1 Dogged to horn then led horn to top. Go 2 Still sunny on rock but felt OK - Ground to thru horn and felt good above going right but got the sloper in the wrong place then managed to get tips into big undercut but not well enough to pull into rest. Happy to get through throwe mover again - an Autumn highpoint    but shame I didnt get to top travere as felt reasonably fresh when came off Had a sneaky crag nap with sun in face. Nice Go 3 Ground to touching horn. Rested on bolt then tried to do second to top but rock felt glassy and had foot slippages so came off setting up for throw and came down. Go 4 Ground to touching horn. Tried from 2nd bolt but fell off throw. Then did throw to midway across top traverse. Then tried pull straight back on twice to do top traverse but couldnt. Two minutes rest and did top traverse to belay. Luke did GBH and looked good on Rainshadow. Maddy loooked good on Bat Route

W.

T.

F. Noon. Luke drove. Tom and Jerome came too Cooler temps - low teens but humidity still around 70% but an on-crag wind. Good but not mint. 2 x Cons. Go 1 Felt glassy dogging up - slipped off horn with both hands on it. Came down. Discovered toes of Whites had gone soft after just 5 sessions Go 2 did in 3 sections. Ground to undercut by 3rd Throw to horn. Horn to top Go 3 Ground to grabbing but not holding horn - kept having to readjust feet. 2 mins rest then 2nd bolt to midway across the top traverse Go 4 2nd bolt to top 

S. Moving some slabs

S.

No alcohol all week 

Generally feel lacklustre, unmotivated and sleepy. Back starting to play up. Reaping the result of neglecting stretching for last 6 months. Also got an elbow twinge on Tuesday but seemed to clear up with icing. Fingers generally achey and swollen joints kept at bay with massage. Weight heading very gradually downwards.

Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.

Signed up for Malham on Monday with Steve and possibly the following Friday depending on things

Edit:

S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now   

[Murph]

We: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..).

Hello! And thanks.

You're not wrong though - I swear you totally had the BSD jug at one point but somehow it didn't stick. Mind over matter. Next time after a decent rest surely!?

[shark]

Summer holiday of a couple of weeks not training or climbing, chilling traveling in France, finished mid September. Did 6 board sessions up to the start of this week to nip up a bit. Now preparing for Autumn / Winter trips Sicily, Rodellar, Tremp perhaps a couple of weeks in Font.  Recalled that this was a good way to keep on plan so back on it.

Welcome back

[tomtom]

We: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..).

Hello! And thanks.

You're not wrong though - I swear you totally had the BSD jug at one point but somehow it didn't stick. Mind over matter. Next time after a decent rest surely!?

:D no where near on Friday. Burnt a load of efforts holding the rh hold in slightly the Wrong way! No more opportunities for a week so that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...

[shark]

About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess -  well cold enough to see your breath when I got there.

7 degrees when I passed the Fox House this eve

Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great

Greater than Lagers?

[Murph]

that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...

Tell me you're not serious. Surely rubicon is fine all year round? I've got so much left to do!

[Sidehaas]

S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now   

Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.
Forecast looks dry all this week still