[36chambers]

Regarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?

You climbed it, so it had to go down to 7B+...

[36chambers]

How did it compare to PUPP?

Easier (and not half as good).

[r-man]

Regarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?

You climbed it, so it had to go down to 7B+...

It's a bit easier with the heel. 7C for the old toe rockover sequence perhaps.

[filz]

Mon: fb repeater. Bad session. Some finger pain on middle 2 and front 2, so I cut the session short
Tue:  work. Nothing
Wed: lunch session on portable fb, front levers, one harm assisted pull ups.
Thu: push ups, L-sits, tuck planche, jumps, weighted pull ups, fb. Again not feeling well on middle 2 and front 2
Fri: nothing
Sat: isometric weight training, dragon flags, fb max hangs. Feeling a little better on 2 finger holds, far from best condition.
Sun: ring rows, dumbbell clean and press, squats, headstands

[TobyD]

A really shitty week....

M told needed an operation on my head asap; 4-5 mile walk in the evening trying to forget about it
T in hospital lying in bed pretty much,now have a section of skull missing,which will hopefully be replaced with a titanium plate in about 6 months if I stay well. No banging head on anything allowed now!
...
Sat
Sun about 5 miles or so gentle walking, which felt pretty tiring after the week

Time to restart some rehab..

[kelvin]

All the best with the rehab Toby - some frustrating days ahead no doubt but we'll all be cheering you on from our laptops I'm sure.

[Will Hunt]

Regarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?

You climbed it, so it had to go down to 7B+...

It's a bit easier with the heel. 7C for the old toe rockover sequence perhaps.

I did it with the toe. Is the heel really believed easier? Can't imagine using a heel for that move.

[Duma]

Shit Toby, that's hardcore. All the best for recovery.

[rodma]

Regarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?

You climbed it, so it had to go down to 7B+...

It's a bit easier with the heel. 7C for the old toe rockover sequence perhaps.

I did it with the toe. Is the heel really believed easier? Can't imagine using a heel for that move.

That's morphology for you

[Nibile]

Best wishes Toby. If it had to be done, better to start the process as soon as possible!

[TobyD]

Best wishes Toby. If it had to be done, better to start the process as soon as possible!

Cheers nibs and everyone else who has sent messages etc. It really helps and I need the encouragement!

[TobyD]

goals:

So Aberration, Body Machine, (Obscene Toilet), OSing & Trad.  Ooh, might try to get on The Sissy too

Ian have you done toys for the boys? If not I'd say that's a great similar objective, pretty much the same grade as aberration probably, and stays pretty dry and clean.

[tommytwotone]

Goal - Font 7anything pre-arrival of child #2


M - woke up with a crappy cold, so nowt
T - nowt
W - felt slightly better, then went our for pre-arranged beers in evening
T - remembered while drinking through a cold is never a good plan
F - nowt
S - nowt - 2 kid's birthday parties back-to-back
S - swimming with the little one in the morning, then a nice meetup with friends in Roundhay Park in the sunshine. Spend about an hour chucking an American football around.


Having tempted fate last week by saying things were improving, or course I pick up a bug and get non-runnered for a week...

[SA Chris]

M- steep (ish) 10k run - 55 mins.
T - nowt
W - flat 21km run - 2hr 15 mins
T - nowt
F - nowt
S - nowt.
S - 50km bike  - 2h 18 - some hill repeats in there which kill me.

Might get back down the wall on Wednesday if weather is as poor as forecast.

[duncan]

STG- recuperate.
MTG - 7b+/E5
LTG - tbc.

M -
T - 15 minutes recovery climbing: 5/5+ on the autobelay. Felt tired and sore.
W -
T -
F -
S -
S -


Last week I felt ..battered, starving hungry ... Shoulder and finger sore ... and this hasn't changed. Time for a break, see you all in a month.

Toby, good luck. I'd feel very vulnerable in your shoes. Long-term prospects are pretty good, the infection has been identified fairly early and there are loads of people quite happy with Ti plates in their skulls including a number of climbers.

[nai]

goals:

So Aberration, Body Machine, (Obscene Toilet), OSing & Trad.  Ooh, might try to get on The Sissy too

Ian have you done toys for the boys? If not I'd say that's a great similar objective, pretty much the same grade as aberration probably, and stays pretty dry and clean.

I've not even done Stung, despite two short visits early this season (wet hold made it harder, honest).

But you're right, it's a great shout and would be a preferable objective but getting people to go there might not be that easy, probably one for early next season.

Also remembered you saying that Proud Whore is very good and would have no qualms about trying that rather than BM.

So basically my goals are quite elastic.  I also have a weekend away next week, hoping to get to Wales and do Resurrection so for the next week I'm quite focussed on OSing and trad.

Keep sticking at it and getting better, mate, long road ahead but you have the strength to walk it (just try not to run too soon, eh?).

[SA Chris]

there are loads of people quite happy with Ti plates in their skulls including a number of climbers.

At least you are saving on buying helmets!

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Best wishes to you Toby, you'll be right.


Strength phase

M. Quick 2 hours drilling the next new route at crag x.
T. Flew back from NI.
W. Tired 1 hr pilbox sesh after work in total ming - Pilbox Original actually dripping condensation! Still managed to almost latch Chocolate Wall.
T. Pilbox sesh after work - mint! Sent Chocolate Wall first go of the sesh. Worked Milenium Drive for first time, ace problem. Did every move, linked in two halves to Whisky Bitch crux.
F. Flew to Belfast. Quick sesh at crag x - girlfriend sent her first new route, a nice 6a I'd bolted last weekend.
S. Boulderworld for GF's daugther's first bouldering comp, she came 2nd in her age group  . Fairhead afterwards, good times hehe.
S. Boulderworld, quick hour on the 45 board upstairs trying mecca crux mock-up.
M. Finished bolting the next new route at crag x, cool fingery 7b+/c ish. No time to try it.

Psyched for Millenium Drive and other lime 7Cs as training for Mecca.

[TobyD]

Best wishes to you Toby, you'll be right.

Cheers Pete, I have remembered your story about how far you walked in the swimming pool when doing rehab, while doing dumbbell exercises, trying to stand on a balance board, gentle walking etc.
Inspiration!

[filz]

Best wishes Toby

[the_dom]

Good luck Toby!

[Hugh]

Bloody hell, hope you have a swift recovery Toby!

Also, nice one Duma; amazing ticklist!

Rest week mostly:

Mon-Thu: Rest. The odd swim.
Fri: Garage board, limit bouldering. Made some new holds that I can't pull on to yet. Excellent stuff.
Sat: Run 6km.
Sun: Max hangs