[shark]

Yep Simon I did it but took more than a couple of sessions! Seemed perma dry and so much easier to get good conditions than other lime venues. It's good training as you can pull on in a few places and theres quite a bit to it.
Good luck with the recovery Toby!

Nice. Can you PM me your beta whilst you can still remember it.

[TobyD]

Shit, I must have missed that, what happened? Hope the recovery goes OK.

Fell clipping a first bolt at Malham in June. Broke 2 lobes of my skull and wrist. Head wound got infected, just had to have a plate of my skull removed permanently, so I now have a hole in my head. It'll hopefully be able to get replaced with a titanium plate in 6 months or so. Until then I can't risk even bumping my head a bit. Hopefully I will be able to top rope, fingerboard, turbo train for exercise.

[Footwork]

Shit, I must have missed that, what happened? Hope the recovery goes OK.

Fell clipping a first bolt at Malham in June. Broke 2 lobes of my skull and wrist. Head wound got infected, just had to have a plate of my skull removed permanently, so I now have a hole in my head. It'll hopefully be able to get replaced with a titanium plate in 6 months or so. Until then I can't risk even bumping my head a bit. Hopefully I will be able to top rope, fingerboard, turbo train for exercise.

  I heard about this. Heal quick and best wishes. I'm sure you'll be out in no time.

[SA Chris]

Fell clipping a first bolt at Malham in June. Broke 2 lobes of my skull and wrist. Head wound got infected, just had to have a plate of my skull removed permanently, so I now have a hole in my head. It'll hopefully be able to get replaced with a titanium plate in 6 months or so. Until then I can't risk even bumping my head a bit. Hopefully I will be able to top rope, fingerboard, turbo train for exercise.

Fuuuuck. All I can do is wish you a speedy recovery and send +karma.

[TobyD]

Thanks y'all for the support and encouragement, I'll need it! I'm only a couple of days post op at the moment but I'll start doing very light rehab when I'm home, unless Im in here for ages. I think that getting back to 8-something sport and doing a sportive should be doable by end of June 2017... have to see how the recovery and future operation go though. It's a long road.

[Nibile]

It's a long road.

And you'll walk it steadily, with patience and determination.
Come on!

[Luke Owens]

Good luck to a speedy recovery Toby!

M: AeroPow - Foot-on Campus
1min on - 1:30min jug shake out rest x 8

Warm in the gym, felt hard. Got so pumped I lost count of reps. Turned out I completed all 8, will reduce the rest time slightly next sesh.

T: Antags and Stretching

W: Diamond - 26 degrees and no wind... Bolt-to-bolt up N-TS, 1st redpoint got to crux crimps and just greased off them. 2nd redpoint, conditions even worse, how I got through the lower wall I'll never know, felt way better on the rests and felt like I got a lot back when I never could before. Greased off crux crimps again but felt like I could of done it if conditions had been good...

T: Rest

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Diamond - Good scene, plenty of people down there. Put clips in on N-TS felt ok going bolt-to-bolt, 1st redpoint I got to a move below my high point and couldn't hold the crimps as they felt greasy, it's me who's greasing up the holds not the crag conditions, sweaty tips, hadn't used anti-hydral before hand.

Felt completely wasted after that go, Conditions went amazing and for the first time all season there was a strong breeze on the crag. 2nd go I had was absolutely terrible, worst I've been on it ever I think. Had to try way harder than usual to get through the start and felt like I had nothing in me to pull hard moves, power had vanished. Got about three clips up, 3rd go same again. Got pretty sacked with the whole thing by this point and stripped the route and took my rope out that I keep down there.

Having one decent go in a session and being so close for ages has got the better of me. Now I can't get there after work due to daylight also changes things and I just can't be bothered falling on the same bit.

I told myself after I did my project at Dinbren earlier in the year that I wouldn't siege anything and actually do some routes;  now I'm 9 sessions into something else...

I've got new routes to do and other crags I want to go to so I've decided to give that route a rest now, may have another session on it before the season ends to see if I gain any fitness in a month or so.

I find it really strange how hard to come by endurance is for me. I've spent over a month getting pumped trying that route and foot-on campusing for three weeks and I don't feel I've improved much if at all. I went to the Orme yesterday and got pumped on a 6c warm up. Then only had one go in me on a route a couple of grades below my limit and I was then wasted for the whole day after it, just managed to scrape up a 6b+ at the end of the session. Not really a grand day out for someone trying to redpoint an endurance 7c. Baffling...

[nai]

I find it really strange how hard to come by endurance is for me. I've spent over a month getting pumped trying that route and foot-on campusing for three weeks and I don't feel I've improved much if at all.

Same for me for the last few years, only this year having trained LI AeroCap pretty much every week (and HI any non-peak weeks) since November has it improved significantly.

Plus various AeroPow workouts which started low intensity, high volume and changed vice-versa as the season approached.  Don't underestimate the effect of the base hypertrophy phase.

Plus AnCap. 

Seems there's no shortcut to fitness, have to put in the miles and unfortunately it's very transient.

M: AeroPow - Foot-on Campus
1min on - 1:30min jug shake out rest x 8

This could be more like HI AeroCap than AeroPow?

[Luke Owens]

Good to hear you've made good improvements!

I'm planning on building a big aerobic base over winter then build on that pre-season next year. I've done plenty of Aerocap style workouts in the past and did a lot of mileage on the rock last year and still didn't see any improvement. I think I'll have to just stick at it consistently for a long time and try and track improvement.

When you say you've been doing a lot of LI-Aero for months and you feel it's helped how much of it were/are you doing?

This could be more like HI AeroCap than AeroPow?

Felt like AeroPow when I was doing it, failing on the last rep and really really pumped to the point of not being able to make a fist by the end. I thought HI-AeroCap was somewhere between this and LI-AeroCap?

[nai]

LI - Generally just 3x10 minutes per week.
HI - I think you should be getting pumped but not to failure.

Pump factors of 4/10 and 8/10.

It can be hard to be disciplined with LI and not go too hard, start getting pumped and spending periods of the workout shaking out to recover when you should be plodding on.

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

[the_dom]

A late reply!

Not a great week, training-wise.

Monday: Crossfit and one arm deadhangs
Tuesday: Rest day
Wednesday: Solid deadhang session.
Thursday: Crap bouldering session.
Friday: Morning crossfit, lunchtime campusing - very big day of training.
Saturday: One hour trail run. Sore knee afterwards.
Sunday: Campusing

[mrjonathanr]

TobyD

Good luck with your recovery. Sounds like you have all the tenacity you need, hope it goes well.