3 redpoint attempts at Obscene Toilet 7c. Came very close on the second go. So much for a confidence boosting perfunctory redpoint.Worried that my finger endurance is below par.
Quote from: shark on September 18, 2016, 07:04:45 pm3 redpoint attempts at Obscene Toilet 7c. Came very close on the second go. So much for a confidence boosting perfunctory redpoint.Worried that my finger endurance is below par.I rocked up there last Friday with the same aim and came away ego bruised too.Are you still on Keto/low carb? I'm finding route climbing a struggle with it and notice DMC says the same about his current endurance training. Kind of odd that you can do big hill days no problem but struggle with climbing endurance and stamina. Might be worthwhile experimenting with carbs for climbing days.
Goals:Good trip to MW . Fucking great trip.
identify (and if possible do) candidates for:8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June
Terrace...Is this genuinely regarded as 7C?
Training starts next week.
Quick hit at Burbage on my way home and managed to get a consolation tick of The Terrace. Is this genuinely regarded as 7C?
Quote from: 36chambers on September 18, 2016, 10:35:41 pmQuick hit at Burbage on my way home and managed to get a consolation tick of The Terrace. Is this genuinely regarded as 7C? Not since the holds got about three times bigger than they used to be. I'm guessing it'll go in the new guidebook at 7B+.
Wrong answer. Training starts now.
Quote from: andy_e on September 19, 2016, 12:41:59 pmWrong answer. Training starts now.Am I okay to comb my hair first?
Quote from: T_B on September 19, 2016, 12:55:32 pmQuote from: 36chambers on September 18, 2016, 10:35:41 pmQuick hit at Burbage on my way home and managed to get a consolation tick of The Terrace. Is this genuinely regarded as 7C? Not since the holds got about three times bigger than they used to be. I'm guessing it'll go in the new guidebook at 7B+.I think I prefer Wood's answer. And there I was thinking I was slowly getting better. I certainly wouldn't argue with 7B+, although it is pretty much my style of climbing.
Not sure what's causing all this crampy/tightness in my forearms again. Possibly the extra rest is ceasing me up!
Regarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?
How did it compare to PUPP?
Quote from: Will Hunt on September 19, 2016, 01:39:00 pmRegarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?You climbed it, so it had to go down to 7B+...
Quote from: 36chambers on September 19, 2016, 02:38:16 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on September 19, 2016, 01:39:00 pmRegarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?You climbed it, so it had to go down to 7B+...It's a bit easier with the heel. 7C for the old toe rockover sequence perhaps.
Quote from: r-man on September 19, 2016, 02:48:27 pmQuote from: 36chambers on September 19, 2016, 02:38:16 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on September 19, 2016, 01:39:00 pmRegarding Peak grading, what was the story with The Storm? 7B+ now but seen loads of stuff about it being 7C online. Did the holds get bigger or did the consensus just bring it down?You climbed it, so it had to go down to 7B+...It's a bit easier with the heel. 7C for the old toe rockover sequence perhaps.I did it with the toe. Is the heel really believed easier? Can't imagine using a heel for that move.
Best wishes Toby. If it had to be done, better to start the process as soon as possible!
goals:So Aberration, Body Machine, (Obscene Toilet), OSing & Trad. Ooh, might try to get on The Sissy too
Quote from: nai on September 18, 2016, 08:11:59 pmgoals:So Aberration, Body Machine, (Obscene Toilet), OSing & Trad. Ooh, might try to get on The Sissy tooIan have you done toys for the boys? If not I'd say that's a great similar objective, pretty much the same grade as aberration probably, and stays pretty dry and clean.
there are loads of people quite happy with Ti plates in their skulls including a number of climbers.
Best wishes to you Toby, you'll be right.