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Climbing is an Olympic sport! (Read 14696 times)

Percy B

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Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 03, 2016, 09:02:05 pm
As of a few minutes ago, climbing is now an Olympic sport. News item on the BMC website

 :popcorn:

Kingy

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#1 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 03, 2016, 11:36:24 pm
I say this is a great thing.  :clap2: Fair enough the speed climbing element may not please some but its cool to see the sport getting some mainstream recognition. Gotta give the spectators some fast paced action.

Some of the top comp climbers seem to take speed climbing seriously like Sean McColl and Drew Ruana in the juniors. I don't see why it couldn't compliment the other disciplines, after all some fast twitch explosive power is surely beneficial  :-\

Some doommongerers seem to be saying it will shift focus away from outdoor climbing but I don't think it will detract from it in any way, its just a different sport really

monkoffunk

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#2 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 12:53:27 am
I won't be interested in the Olympics until we can have something serious like a combined 100m, 10,000m and egg and spoon race. That's a format I could get behind.

205Chris

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#3 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 06:39:55 am
Some doommongerers seem to be saying it will shift focus away from outdoor climbing but I don't think it will detract from it in any way, its just a different sport really

Anything to help the parking situation at Kilnsey  ;)

tomtom

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#4 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 08:09:40 am
I forecast that opinion on whether or not its a good idea will be broadly aligned with views on the BMC rebranding... :)

Those on UKC will hate the idea, those on UKB will dislike the font :D

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 08:10:56 am
As of a few minutes ago, climbing is now an Olympic sport. News item on the BMC Climb Britain website


Fixed.

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 08:14:19 am
I won't be interested in the Olympics until we can have something serious like a combined 100m, 10,000m and egg and spoon race. That's a format I could get behind.

Or how about if they combine 100 metres, hurdles, High jump, Shot put, 200 metres, Long jump, Javelin throw & 800 metres? *

Combined events are nothing new.

*yes I had to google.

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 08:19:05 am


Quote
Combined events are nothing new.
Nothing wrong with combined events.... if you can also get medals for the events individually

Duncan campbell

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#8 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 09:26:03 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.

bigironhorse

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#9 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 09:32:43 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.

I thought it was only confirmed for 2020 not all future olympics?

turnipturned

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#10 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 09:36:44 am
Fucking Come on VICKERS. First for Gold in X Games and Olympics   :strongbench:

Duncan campbell

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#11 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 09:39:37 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.

I thought it was only confirmed for 2020 not all future olympics?

Oh right, I presumed that confirmed for 2020 meant that would be when climbing would start being in the olympics. I have very little knowledge on this sort of stuff.

haydn jones

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#12 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 09:48:12 am
Combine all the sports #crossfag

bigironhorse

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#13 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 10:13:05 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.

I thought it was only confirmed for 2020 not all future olympics?

Oh right, I presumed that confirmed for 2020 meant that would be when climbing would start being in the olympics. I have very little knowledge on this sort of stuff.

I thought I had read that the host nation can select some additional events to include sports that are more popular in that country, so climbing wouldn't necessarily be in subsequent olympics. But it doesn't come across like that in the BMC article. Not sure now.

Will Hunt

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#14 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 10:31:29 am
I fielded some questions at work this morning about speed climbing.

It is begun.


Obi-Wan is lost...

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#15 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 10:51:53 am
They used to have 'demonstration' sports but haven't had since 1992. Don't think they commit to it being a permanent fixture, it'll be in it until it's not. If it's popular it might turn out to be the next 'Beach Volleyball'  8) and it'll be there for a while or it could be the next baseball.  :'(

Will Hunt

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#16 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:08:46 am
Somebody commented on UKC that all official comp speed climbing is done on one standard set route that doesn't change. Can anyone verify whether this is true and to what extent? Is it one route that has been set at some point in the past and is now used in every speed climbing competition worldwide? Do you set a different route for each event and let the competitors practice on it in advance?
What grade is this route?

SA Chris

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#17 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:16:30 am
Somebody commented on UKC that all official comp speed climbing is done on one standard set route that doesn't change. Can anyone verify whether this is true and to what extent? Is it one route that has been set at some point in the past and is now used in every speed climbing competition worldwide?

I believe this is true. No idea of grades, but it always looks like a reachy jug ladder.

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#18 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:18:11 am
Somebody commented on UKC that all official comp speed climbing is done on one standard set route that doesn't change. Can anyone verify whether this is true and to what extent? Is it one route that has been set at some point in the past and is now used in every speed climbing competition worldwide? Do you set a different route for each event and let the competitors practice on it in advance?
What grade is this route?

Tempted to use LMGTFY but feeling generous... ;)

Lots of info here, https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/sport-department/speed-project
Grade is irrelevant but looks piss easy, jugs all the way on a 5 degree overhang.

Want to build your own official wall?...
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/about-ifsc/Speed_Project/140429_SDSpeedLicenseRules4.1-corrected.pdf


roddersm

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#19 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:21:12 am
The speed route is around f6c and it's a set standard - there's a 15m one and a 10m one with set spacing. 15m is the full height for comps....I think.

Fultonius

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#20 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:29:44 am
There's one at Ratho. It's wank. Hopefully they have individual medals as well as overall, then at least people can compete in their preferred discipline and pretty much "show up" to the speed comp.

Hopefully the scoring is weighted so that speed isn't really important, just a nonsense addition for show.

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#21 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:33:42 am


 :popcorn:
« Last Edit: August 04, 2016, 11:43:20 am by Obi-Wan is lost... »

Will Hunt

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#22 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:43:36 am
That's the happiest I've ever seen anybody after climbing a 6c.

Will Hunt

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#23 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 11:55:35 am
And this route never changes?  :ohmy:
It's an even worse event than I'd feared.

roddersm

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#24 Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
August 04, 2016, 12:02:49 pm
Nope stays the same - don't like it much either but I suppose it makes sense to display all disciplines in Tokyo an hopefully get individual events at some stage if it goes well.

The speed climb is probably something non climbers can understand maybe from a spectator point of view I would guess?